danald2000
Well-Known Member
what is the difference between the car power adapter and any other 12v car power adapter? Thanks pipes!
VapCap Induction Heater for Desktop and in Car Use
- Thread starter Pipes
- Start date
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- Tags
- dynavap induction heat vapcap
It's the amps rating. Most adapters have very thin wire or that curly cord type stuff. These are designed for low current phone charging and such. We need to have 6-7 amps flowing. If you look closely at the picture I posted, you'll see the cord is more like lamp cord. In some cars the actual panel fuse for the accessory plug might have to upped to 8 amp if not already. I "think" most are 8 amp already from factory as is but might be 5 amp.
I would have posted a link to them, but the source I got them from is dead and has no replacement. Searched, but had no luck for a decent price. I have around 40 left over from the Solo PA days, so lucked out for now. Take advantage while they are here.
danald2000
Well-Known Member
Thanks so much pipes!
virtualpurple
Well-Known Member
@Pipes your ingenuity never ceases to amaze me! I'm sure it's only a matter of time before we see a 2.0 with an amplifier or a light that triggers to sync with the click!
And as always Pipes, I appreciate having a place in line! I'm as addicted to your work as I am with @Ratchett's line of products!
And as always Pipes, I appreciate having a place in line! I'm as addicted to your work as I am with @Ratchett's line of products!
Andreaerdna
If God is the answer, then the question is wrong
Yesterday I received my coil from ebay with the charger and I putted them together without any switch yet
As Pipes already said it works nicely and it reminds me what was written about the vapman station I (some reported (IiRC) they experimented low temp vaping) meaning if you follow the click and you do not let it go back cold between hits, it is a session style with very slow temperature stepping and you get very flavourfull first cycles (great for sipping)
For huge clouds as we are used to with torch you must count some seconds after click and manually it can be tricky (combustion is a risk as it heats fast and click is already happened)
Very good feature is that induction is very very powerfull and effective!
Between hits I leave it on (around 5minutes maybe) and it takes really few seconds (2-3) to click it and a couple more to be at more consistent vapor production temp, so it is a continuous, near no wait, situation
That being said coil slowly accumulates heat and by the end of the session it is quite hot and I think this is not good, cant wait to try it with some pushing button
IMO this is the way for a @VapCap heating station even if it needs some tuning when using it natively, but at worst is just a matter of learning curve I guess
I am very glad @Pipes got into this with his ingenuity, knowledge, generosity, and open mind. I stand up and clap to you sir
you are very precious person and a real asset for Fc. I am very gratefull to you! 
As Pipes already said it works nicely and it reminds me what was written about the vapman station I (some reported (IiRC) they experimented low temp vaping) meaning if you follow the click and you do not let it go back cold between hits, it is a session style with very slow temperature stepping and you get very flavourfull first cycles (great for sipping)
For huge clouds as we are used to with torch you must count some seconds after click and manually it can be tricky (combustion is a risk as it heats fast and click is already happened)
Very good feature is that induction is very very powerfull and effective!
Between hits I leave it on (around 5minutes maybe) and it takes really few seconds (2-3) to click it and a couple more to be at more consistent vapor production temp, so it is a continuous, near no wait, situation
That being said coil slowly accumulates heat and by the end of the session it is quite hot and I think this is not good, cant wait to try it with some pushing button
IMO this is the way for a @VapCap heating station even if it needs some tuning when using it natively, but at worst is just a matter of learning curve I guess
I am very glad @Pipes got into this with his ingenuity, knowledge, generosity, and open mind. I stand up and clap to you sir
you are very precious person and a real asset for Fc. I am very gratefull to you! 
Diggy Smalls
Notorious
I'm so ready for this. I would love to have a power mason instead of a torch for indoor use!
Andreaerdna
If God is the answer, then the question is wrong
It's alive, IT'S ALIVE!!
two switches, one led, one bamboo eyeglass box and the induction module all assembled together (picture of the wires before adding the last switch), by far not as elegant as @Pipes cup, but this is my own
Induction module needs some tweaks (meaning stretching it out a little) if you want to use it low wattage (120watt being the max allowed by the module - I use a 72 watt power supply).
Its been a couple of weeks almost, I didn't use any of my torches once, it is as fast as a big torch. I already have a second coil on a boat (I foresee one of this coil in each critical point of my home
It goes by itself that IMO this is a very good add-on, every vapcapper should try it.
On a side note: DIYing rocks!! Never found anything as effective as this hobby in lowering consumption/microdosing
two switches, one led, one bamboo eyeglass box and the induction module all assembled together (picture of the wires before adding the last switch), by far not as elegant as @Pipes cup, but this is my own
Induction module needs some tweaks (meaning stretching it out a little) if you want to use it low wattage (120watt being the max allowed by the module - I use a 72 watt power supply).
Its been a couple of weeks almost, I didn't use any of my torches once, it is as fast as a big torch. I already have a second coil on a boat (I foresee one of this coil in each critical point of my home
It goes by itself that IMO this is a very good add-on, every vapcapper should try it.
On a side note: DIYing rocks!! Never found anything as effective as this hobby in lowering consumption/microdosing
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stark1
Lonesome Planet
It's alive, IT'S ALIVE!!
two switches, one led, one bamboo eyeglass box and the induction module all assembled together (picture of the wires before adding the last switch), by far not as elegant as @Pipes cup, but this is my own
Induction module needs some tweaks (meaning stretching it out a little) if you want to use it low wattage (120watt being the max allowed by the module - I use a 72 watt power supply).
Its been a couple of weeks almost, I didn't use any of my torches once, it is as fast as a big torch. I already have a second coil on a boat (I foresee one of this coil in each critical point of my home
It goes by itself that IMO this is a very good add-on, every vapcapper should try it.
On a side note: DIYing rocks!! Never found anything as effective as this hobby in lowering consumption/microdosing
Dude, @Andreaerdna would you please post your IH in action!
Looks beauty full
JackBrus
Member
Don't know if this is the right place to post but here it goes. How about a combination of:
- the Supreme vaporizer
- the Vapcap induction heater
- the Project
The idea: you heat up the perforated steel tip to say 300 °C (=570 °F), using an induction heater (not in the picture). If you inhale, air is going through the tip, the air heats up and then passes through the herbs.
This is the Supreme idea (heating a metal part, that in turn heats the air) plus the Vapcap induction heater idea. Just like the Supreme, and unlike the Vapcap, we are talking pure convection heat here.
Inside the oven is a coil. This coil (fired from the mod box) can be used for fine-tuning: apply some extra heat, or slowly raise the temperature during the session. This the "The Project".
Advantages of this system
* the perforated steel tip is heated by an induction heater. The induction heater does the heavy lifting, it provides a base heat. The coil only has to do the fine tuning. This means that the battery in the mod box is way less used; the battery will last much longer. Also, the coil can be small & simple because it doesn't have to do very much.
* the herb chamber can be re-filled, unlike the VapCap, without having to touch hot metal. Also, depending on the materials, the herb can be seen when it vaporizes.
* it is a "multi-fuel" vaporizer. Some options:
- when your batteries are empty, you can use induction only
- when you don't have your induction heater, you can heat the tip using butane. That way, it is just a "Supreme" vape.
- or, alternatively, you may use batteries only. That way, it is just a "Project" vape.
- or any combination.
Disadvantages of this system
* Needs 2 heating systems: the induction heater (preferably with a temperature control) plus the normal coil+modbox
* It needs a desktop part (the induction heater), thus is not 100% "portable". It suits my use case very well though. I vape in and around the house, but mostly outside because of smell. Now I could "pre heat" inside and then go outside.
Attention points
* Prevent accidents by insulating the metal tip. Maybe with a silicon sleeve that stays on all the time
* Find an ideal weight for the metal tip. Heavy enough to provide a stable temperature, light enough to keep the system easy to handle
* the induction heater should in no way damage the coil, the mod box or the battery. So heat or magnetic fields should be controlled well. I don't know if this is a real problem.....
# Note to self: stop thinking, start building.
THOUGHTS? COMMENTS? CRITICISM? Please fire along!
- the Supreme vaporizer
- the Vapcap induction heater
- the Project
The idea: you heat up the perforated steel tip to say 300 °C (=570 °F), using an induction heater (not in the picture). If you inhale, air is going through the tip, the air heats up and then passes through the herbs.
This is the Supreme idea (heating a metal part, that in turn heats the air) plus the Vapcap induction heater idea. Just like the Supreme, and unlike the Vapcap, we are talking pure convection heat here.
Inside the oven is a coil. This coil (fired from the mod box) can be used for fine-tuning: apply some extra heat, or slowly raise the temperature during the session. This the "The Project".
Advantages of this system
* the perforated steel tip is heated by an induction heater. The induction heater does the heavy lifting, it provides a base heat. The coil only has to do the fine tuning. This means that the battery in the mod box is way less used; the battery will last much longer. Also, the coil can be small & simple because it doesn't have to do very much.
* the herb chamber can be re-filled, unlike the VapCap, without having to touch hot metal. Also, depending on the materials, the herb can be seen when it vaporizes.
* it is a "multi-fuel" vaporizer. Some options:
- when your batteries are empty, you can use induction only
- when you don't have your induction heater, you can heat the tip using butane. That way, it is just a "Supreme" vape.
- or, alternatively, you may use batteries only. That way, it is just a "Project" vape.
- or any combination.
Disadvantages of this system
* Needs 2 heating systems: the induction heater (preferably with a temperature control) plus the normal coil+modbox
* It needs a desktop part (the induction heater), thus is not 100% "portable". It suits my use case very well though. I vape in and around the house, but mostly outside because of smell. Now I could "pre heat" inside and then go outside.
Attention points
* Prevent accidents by insulating the metal tip. Maybe with a silicon sleeve that stays on all the time
* Find an ideal weight for the metal tip. Heavy enough to provide a stable temperature, light enough to keep the system easy to handle
* the induction heater should in no way damage the coil, the mod box or the battery. So heat or magnetic fields should be controlled well. I don't know if this is a real problem.....
# Note to self: stop thinking, start building.
THOUGHTS? COMMENTS? CRITICISM? Please fire along!
Last edited:
Andreaerdna
If God is the answer, then the question is wrong
Thank you for the compliment Stark,
I will try to show a video but lower your expectation: I am a total noob, I never posted any video and have some (healthy) paranoia in doing this due to living in a prohibition country
Will give it a shot next week end and if I feel ok posting it I will do
I received today the second coil, and I have another idea for the housing but yet again not before next week end
maybe @Pipes is more confident posting a video?
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flotntoke
thoroughly vaped
It's alive, IT'S ALIVE!!
two switches, one led, one bamboo eyeglass box and the induction module all assembled together (picture of the wires before adding the last switch), by far not as elegant as @Pipes cup, but this is my own
Induction module needs some tweaks (meaning stretching it out a little) if you want to use it low wattage (120watt being the max allowed by the module - I use a 72 watt power supply).
Its been a couple of weeks almost, I didn't use any of my torches once, it is as fast as a big torch. I already have a second coil on a boat (I foresee one of this coil in each critical point of my home
It goes by itself that IMO this is a very good add-on, every vapcapper should try it.
On a side note: DIYing rocks!! Never found anything as effective as this hobby in lowering consumption/microdosing
F'n AMAZING!!!! I need the parts list & instructions as soon as you perfect it.
It all starts with these.
Induction Heater Modular - $ 9.72 CAN
15Amp FET Trigger Switch - $ 1.54 CAN
They also take the longest to get. Power supply should be 12 volt, 80 watts or can be less if constant current type.
The rest is only governed by ones imagination.
Induction Heater Modular - $ 9.72 CAN
15Amp FET Trigger Switch - $ 1.54 CAN
They also take the longest to get. Power supply should be 12 volt, 80 watts or can be less if constant current type.
The rest is only governed by ones imagination.
Xelatsok
vapes tobacco modding the vapes
Old good vapcap click should work.
JackBrus
Member
If you are afraid to miss the click, you might use a (laser?) thermometer, a timer or a thermo couple that switches off the heater when a certain temperature is reached. Just thinking out loud here.
Hogni
Honi soit qui mal y pense
Dont you think this is a little bit of over-engineering?
The clicks should be hearable to everyone who isnt cloth-eared. An automtically switching off the heater is only helpful when you have an indicator like a light sign - or a sirene , if you aren't totally deaf. Watching a lamp or waiting for the click - is there any difference?
The clicks should be hearable to everyone who isnt cloth-eared. An automtically switching off the heater is only helpful when you have an indicator like a light sign - or a sirene , if you aren't totally deaf. Watching a lamp or waiting for the click - is there any difference?
Hogni
Honi soit qui mal y pense
JackBrus
Member
Plus, the VC should be simple.
i really like the idea of having a timer, preferably usersetable in seconds or half seconds. that plus adjustable watts, could reach any temperature one wishes, and might also be best to reproduce good sessions. this way the click wouldnt matter.
thermocouple in the vapcap or near wold be cool but induction is messing with metals, not sure it would work properly.
another idea, i think at least partially discussed was to have a microphone to capture the click and trigger the off switch, maybe time delayed as pipes stated the click comes early, resulting in low temp sessions.
arduino, arduino!
yes, maybe over-engineered but cool
thermocouple in the vapcap or near wold be cool but induction is messing with metals, not sure it would work properly.
another idea, i think at least partially discussed was to have a microphone to capture the click and trigger the off switch, maybe time delayed as pipes stated the click comes early, resulting in low temp sessions.
arduino, arduino!
yes, maybe over-engineered but cool
JackBrus
Member
Arduino, yes! Actually I dream about DIY vapes with Arduinos. Really steampunk would be a butane powered vape that is controlled by an Arduino. Think a Daisy with valves. If you fire with too much enthusiasm, the "hot air" valve is closed a bit and the "cool air" valve opens...A bit like the Seiko SpringDrive watches (mechanical watch, driven by a spring, which is however controlled by a microprocessor and a magnet) . Has anybody compared the Arduino with the DNA chips? Is there anything that the DNA does that Arduino can't ?
