VapCap Induction Heater for Desktop and in Car Use

Copacetic

Copacetic

Somewhere North of The Wall
phattpiggie said:
How about an upside down aluminium cup in the bottom of the coil, get the right thickness and it should act like a tiny speaker and amplify the click? I've used a couple of things a small ally tin, a larger tin can and my current carry case a baccy tin. They all make the click louder.
Click to expand...

I've considered a bicycle bell for the cap to rest on.
It would conduct heat away from the VC tip, (useful under some conditions), but with the induction coil, there should be an excess of power available which then could be used to compensate for the heat lost to the bell.

I think it would take some trial and error to determine the best mounting scheme to maximise the 'ting' when the click occurs, but :shrug:
 
phattpiggie

phattpiggie

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
@Copacetic the other thing I thought was to use a golf tee shape piece of ally vertical in the core that would transfer the click to the disc or a bell, 'ting' your vapcap is ready.
Mechanics use a screwdriver to the ear to pin point noises in engines, I had a mechanics stethoscope years ago.
NawByNym.jpg

There's a thin hardened blue steel diaphragm attached to the end of the thin steel rod, it's amazing what you can here with one of these.
I agree it's going to take some working out but it should work, I here my cool click every time when it's on my baccy tin.
 
A

Andreaerdna

If God is the answer, then the question is wrong
Stu said:
How would the titanium tips react in the induction field? Would this only work with the OG glass body?

:peace:
Click to expand...

I think it will work very good also with Ti tip.

Induction will heat the cap and radiation/conduction will heat the bowl as with vapcap OG (glass bowl is not heated either by induction, isn't?)

How many watts does it drain? @Pipes have you measured?

I like a lot this project
 
Pipes

Pipes

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I'll find out shortly regarding the Ti cap. Ordered a Woody for testing.
It sucks up 1.5 amp idle, and 6 amps with the OG inserted. So, 18 watts and 72 watts respectfully.
But keep in mind the 12 volt supply I choose, because I have stock, maxes out at 50 watts. In other words, once just over 4 amps is reached, the supply becomes a constant current supply. Meaning, the voltage will drop instead of tripping a protection circuit. I believe this is because it was designed as an LED driver supply. So 50 - 18 is 38 watts of heating energy or 54 watts with a heftier supply.

Here are the early tests :



 
Pipes

Pipes

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Accessory Maker
Endeavor Update!!!
Still waiting on the FET switch to finalize this pup.
Decided on a soft switch mechanism.
A typical tactile switch mounted in a hole of wooden doweling. Another cap type piece which will also go through the hole from the other end. This will be the part which the VC will press on to turn the unit on. The larger doweling with the hole is sized such it pressure fits into the induction coil.



Note that I spread the coil out where the dowel fits and tightened the space where the VC will sit.



Here is the space left for the FET switch. According to the measurements it will fit perfect. I left the switch wires ready for it as you can see them at the bottom for now.



Top view down the hole and you can see the top of the pressure platform.



Just another bottom shot.



So far testing has been good. Still awaiting the Ti Woody to test. That will not be long whereas the FET will still be in the weeks likely.
:science:;)
 
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A

Andreaerdna

If God is the answer, then the question is wrong
Should condenser get overly heated by induction as it is stainless steel, there will always be the option for a titanium condenser like in omnivap.

Really hopes it works with ti

Edit: just checked: omnivap ti condenser can be used in place of standard condenser -same dimensions
 
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Pipes

Pipes

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Accessory Maker
First off, to complete the soft switch mechanism. I drilled a hole while the inner dowel was resting atop the tensile switch. Then, I drilled out the center doweling to be a couple mils bigger. Finally, I pushed another piece of wood (wooden QTip) through the hole and cut it flush.




Hooray!! Got the FET switches today. :clap: Had to get the prototype up and running first thing. And it works like a charm!
Just glued it to the side of the capacitor casing which is the part glued to the mounted perf board. Also added some glue to the soft switch mechanism. Everything is nice and tight. Easy light pressure to activate it and no problem hearing the clicks.



Another change I made is to give a choice of where the DC cord shows. Either at the top, where I cut away some of the sipping slit so the plug can pressure fit in it.



Or along the bottom just under the handle.



Really enjoying this setup tonight. Using my new Ti Woody! Just got it today as well! Liking it much better then the OG. And haven't had to torch it once. LOL. :p


 
little maggie

little maggie

Well-Known Member
This is very cool. But I don't really understand taking something that is incredibly simple and making it more complex.
I do better with things that are complex transformed into something simple.
But then that's why some people by milaanas and others buy mightysand some both.
 
little maggie,
Pipes

Pipes

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Accessory Maker
I was looking at mugs and found there's such a huge variety. The SS or Aluminum mugs can get very pricey. The ceramic is cool but a bitch to drill the hole into. Plastic is the cheapest but not fancy which might actually be good stealth wise.

What I'm thinking is to just make the unit on the perf board with standoffs premounted. Provide the bolts and hardware needed to mount to any flat surface. Just need to drill a couple holes. This way, the owner can mount in any cup, box, tabletop, etc. they wish to. The couch potatoes can even mount it in their end table for personal convenience. (this could be me :cool:)

Only issue I've come across so far, is the cap wanting to slip on the tip. As you pull the VC from the heater, the cap contacting the sides as you pull it out can cause it to slip. Currently just being careful upon removal and have tighten the cap by squeezing slightly out of round.
Other possible solutions would be,
1/ Have VapCap change their cap slightly. Having a small bump or indentation on the top of the protruding stir piece. This would catch in the heat sink slots on the bowl. Would help with loose caps overall, so George might be receptive of this idea. ..?
2/Another solution would be to have the bottom soft button to be slightly spring loaded with movement up to the top of coil. This would keep some upward pressure against the cap while removing. Would like to avoid this solution as sounds like work.:\

Have a good feeling about this endeavor. :D:science:
 
Sketch420

Sketch420

Well-Known Member
:drool: Wow that thing looks great. What a genius idea. This looks like it could be a game changer for the VC. I'd be very interested in one as well if you do decide to sell a few. Thanks for the inspiration, I just need to get better at electronics.:)
 
Pipes

Pipes

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I believe I've got everything needed on order to make a few of these up.
The 1st run production will consist of 15 units with the following changes.

The search for a mug that was cost efficient and easily replaceable while maintaining a DIY concept, ended up an impossible task. I like avoiding any dependencies while making it as flexible as possible. So this is the solution I came up with for a starting point for many alterations without much effort.
Simple Masonry Jars. Available anywhere, comes in different heights with same size top lid. Even can get in mug form with handle.



The top diameter is less than that of the beta mug so will have to slightly change the electronics but have it figured out. Also, adding a second deeper hole for VC device storage along with a cool down magnet spot.

And..... if all goes to plan..... a delay circuit with user control. Since I went with the FET type switch, the input circuit to the trigger can be delayed by using a capacitor and variable resistor in conjunction with the existing switch. Still need to confirm this but I'll make it work. Hopefully, I won't have to eat those words.

Now that I've had time to really get into using the beta unit, I can see the need for the delay. I find that I need to wait about 4 seconds after the click to get the massive clouds and missing the boat is easily done. Removing right when it clicks only gives some flavor with little vapor. I suspect this delay will need adjusting differently between caps and between car verses home power supply as well.

So the top will have 5 points of interest:

-Hole to insert the VC to heat it and activate the heater. Delay will start when VC is not pushing on switch.
-Second hole for VC storage.
-Magnetic spot for quicker cool down and temporary cap storage.
-Potentiometer to vary the delay. Turn all the way down to disable delay.
-Heater ON LED

Here's a picture of my Ti tip with the newest cap design. Although I've been pumping this for a couple weeks now, it has never seen a lighter.
Still looks new and only has minor colour distortion. Gotta love that. Oh, and of course I had to make my own stem to match the beta cup. Fire is for cavemen...:p :cool:





Hopefully, a month or so this should become very real for some. Please PM if interested, and I'll add you to my list.
Yes, @virtualpurple and @Sketch420 your the first ones on it.

At this point I think $70 is fair as comes with power supply and ready to go for indoor use. I even have some of those weird power cords from other parts of the world.:p Works out to about 1/2 for parts and 1/2 for my labor and new set up tools.

Optional accessories:
-Hefty, 10 amp car power cord adapter -> $9. Trust me, very hard to find.

-3 cell 18650 battery setup. Will consists of a deeper masonry jar and battery holders that will reside in the bottom. Great for picnics!!! ->$6 Get your own freakin batteries!

So PM quick to get in on the fun!! 13 spots only. :tup:
 
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Pipes

Pipes

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Sketch420 said:
What did you end up using for the VC body? Looks convincing. I'm all in, now just gotta find a suitable cup. :rockon:
Click to expand...
Funny about that. I ventured out to the shed the other day intending to cut some pipe for making Erasers and ended up making a VC stem instead.
Just turned a piece of Poplar doweling, stained and a coat of lacquer.



After a night using it with the beta heater (gotta think of a name), and getting quite buzzed. I woke up the next day with it looking white. Had gotten ambitious and got into the white appliance enamel. Was a good night...
 
marduk

marduk

daydreamer
Pipes said:
Optional accessories:
-Hefty, 10 amp car power cord adapter -> $9. Trust me, very hard to find.

-3 cell 18650 battery setup. Will consists of a deeper masonry jar and battery holders that will reside in the bottom. Great for picnics!!! ->$6 Get your own freakin batteries!

So PM quick to get in on the fun!! 13 spots only. :tup:
Click to expand...

PM sent!

Will the 3-cell 18650 battery setup also allow you to use mains electricity or is it limited to battery usage?
 
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Pipes

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
All electrical options remain intact. The DC plug which will be pressure mounted into the side of jar can be pushed back into the jar and plugged into the battery pack. Batteries will need to be charged with an external charger and protected cells recommended as there is no built in protection.
The lid hole diameter was a problem for most 3 cell packs so I opted for 3 of these which can be configured to fit through the hole. Will install a female DC plug on it. The jar will be of a taller variety to accommodate the batteries.
The extra $6 bucks gets you a larger jar and pre-wired 3 cell battery holder(s).

BTW, list is half full now.
 
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