VapCap Induction Heater for Desktop and in Car Use

analytika

analytika

Well-Known Member
Hackerman said:
I finally received my power supply and was working on this last night.

It seems to be working great with nothing more than the IH board and a momentary 6amp toggle switch.

I'll post more as I test it more but unless I am going to add batteries and a charger and all that, I don't see where this setup needs any more than what it has.... the board and a switch.
Click to expand...
Read up on the use of a FET.
 
analytika,
ThatBoringBitch

ThatBoringBitch

Well-Known Member
cybrguy said:
Well, I know with the JarHead, and I assume with both of the other @Pipes IHs, the receiver of the VapCap is shorter than the tip itself, so it should not matter what VC style you are using, there should be room.

Edit: will/should
Click to expand...
Thanks. I just checked again. It appears you’re right. I swear when I checked it before it wasn’t fitting with a particular VonG, but apparently I had a few too many before testing it. :doh:
 
hujdimislav

hujdimislav

Well-Known Member
Found this simple wooden box, made a hole, put some magnets and voila, Skelly isn't homeless anymore.

N2FRoan.jpg


HXwCfgK.jpg


21KpXiI.jpg


Pac-man wants some :)
 
bibblybobbly

bibblybobbly

Well-Known Member
I've been trying to go through this thread to find the info I need but I'm stuck on something.

I've ordered the induction heater unit evreybody uses. I notice that the coil is covered with some enamel coating. Does this mean that the vapcap can touch the coil and the user doesn't get a shock? Regardless, could the heat wear away at the coating?

I've seen some nice designs on here like this
20161123_191649-1_zpshmtihqc4.jpg

HxcOt3x.jpg

that appear to havea a little glass bucket that the vapcap can sit in. What are these called and where can I get them from? What is the best way to attach them to the coil?
 
polykoma

polykoma

Active Member
V-apE said:
@bibblybobbly ,You can find a list of main parts and where to get them here.

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1_202eBzWeF7rkTjqV5sWumPxtbSNtfjqOZEs1i9d16k/edit

For attachement of the coil look at the pictures in this thread.;)
Click to expand...

It would be so fantastic if the used LEDs for the glass chamber could be added to the parts list.
I ordered some but I'm not 100% if they are correct ones...
Or is there any closer information about within this thread? (Maybe I missed something)

I saw the pictures how its put together.........

@bibblybobbly the shop for the glass tube has no delivery fee. I ordered 2 for 4$ total with shipping to Germany . Awesom!
 
polykoma,
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polykoma

polykoma

Active Member
V-apE said:
@polykoma,I'm not 100% sure but i believe Pipes uses flat leds.


Make sure they are 12 volts:D

Edit: Look at the third picture these leds are called strawhead leds.


https://www.budgetronics.eu/index.p...ion=article&group_id=10000034&aid=339&lang=NL
Click to expand...
Ahhh okay - since im kinda LED junky i know strawhead means - rounded led with a sawed off head. I used them once when i put an "arduinome monome clone" together. Using strawheads.

But the square shaped ones look nice as well.
Ill order both for my electronics box.

Thanks a lot for the fast reply!!!
 
bibblybobbly

bibblybobbly

Well-Known Member
Interesting... so the glass tub is actually an e-cig glass tank. And it's a tube, not a cup shape...

Q: Can I use a 12 volt power supply to charge the unit?

A: Absolutely NOT. These are 4.2 volt cells and in series, you need 12.6v dead on. A charger is needed and provided, NOT a power supply.
Click to expand...

I think I've only seen battery powered designs so far. Does anyone know of a way of making it plug into the wall? Is there some kind of power supply you can get that will supply the right voltage/current/whatever? What are the considerations there?

EDIT: whoops dumb. The FAQ mentions "12 Volt Power supply" Any more details on that?
 
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bibblybobbly,
polykoma

polykoma

Active Member
bibblybobbly said:
Interesting... so the glass tub is actually an e-cig glass tank. And it's a tube, not a cup shape...



I think I've only seen battery powered designs so far. Does anyone know of a way of making it plug into the wall? Is there some kind of power supply you can get that will supply the right voltage/current/whatever? What are the considerations there?
Click to expand...
The FAQ says:

Optional Stuff:
12 Volt Power supply* - $15 (comes standard with Jarhead, optional for battery powered units.)
*Not to be used with batteries installed or to charge the batteries.

So i guess its 12V - 5A regarding the sizes i saw here in the thread

Can someone verify?
 
polykoma,
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Pipes

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
Many supplies have trouble, even if rated over 6 amp. Here is what I wrote about it a few pages back. 8+ amp rating would be less likely to have any problems of shutting off. But are more expensive.
Pipes said:
As for what power supplies work. This is hit and miss. The current rating is only part of it. Whether it's CC or CV was a theory but don't think it's the real key. The fact that some supplies work and some don't, even with the same rating, indicates it must be in the design of the safety circuits. In particular, the delay before it shuts off when over current is sensed. The supplies that work must have a longer delay and can handle surges better. That's my theory at least... :hmm: :science:
Click to expand...
 
A

asdf420

Well-Known Member
I accidentally plugged in a laptop charger (17.somethingV? 19V?)
It still works. But it seems to suddenly run out of battery, from (while in use) 3 blue indicators to 2, to 0 (just the red led. or nothing)
 
asdf420,
Edgedamage

Edgedamage

Well-Known Member
asdf420 said:
I accidentally plugged in a laptop charger (17.somethingV? 19V?)
It still works. But it seems to suddenly run out of battery, from (while in use) 3 blue indicators to 2, to 0 (just the red led. or nothing)
Click to expand...
How low was the charge before the accident? You may have damaged the protection circuitry, and now the battery is running unprotected. Are you using 18650s ?
 
Edgedamage,
A

asdf420

Well-Known Member
@Edgedamage the charge could have been anywhere between ran out (BMS or whatever shut off) or medium, not sure. It was a 19V, 3.42A charger, center positive. Stock Portside Mini from Pipes.

It still finishes charging, with the proper charger, with a green light. Sometimes it seems like there's a glint of green along with the red LED..
 
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asdf420,
Pipes

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
The BMS does have over voltage protection but it's rather high at 4.3 volt area. If the batteries were not new, this may have damaged one or all of them but very hard to say. If the unit functions for a while, then I'd say the BMS is likely fine. I have my money on the battery(s) :hmm:
 
Pipes

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
Use it for a for a couple cycles and see if things improve.
This may just be a mis-reading of the battery indicator. You might have read it without load and it gave an indication of close to full. Always do the read while the VC is inserted and getting heated.
:\
 
cybrguy

cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
Is it me or does it seem like the tip gets hotter faster with the IH than it does with a torch? Not the cap, the tip.
 
cybrguy,
Edgedamage

Edgedamage

Well-Known Member
Pipes said:
Very cool.
Not sure if you have a BMS mounted on the rear of your battery pack, but if not, I'd highly recommend you add a circuit breaker or at minimum, an in line 10-15 amp fuse. A good quality inline automotive type will suffice. Those are not super quality heaters and can fail which usually ends with a FET being shorted out. If no protection, the power will flow until something gives. If the circuity doesn't sizzle open, then the wires and connectors will heat and batteries will end up off gassing, or worse. Can get scary, very fast.
Please play safe.:D
But keep on playing. :science:

Oh yeah, are you sure about your power supply specs?
Can't be a 2 amp unit. :hmm:
Click to expand...
Oh damm you where right about it getting scary fast!! I bought two of these boards, one was always on my work bench. Connected to a computer PSU with 20amp 12v rail. I was messing with it, doing current draw tests. I was using small pieces of metal and heating them to a dull glow, and then switching the PSU off. I used a empty Vapcap on my next test, a FET let the smoke out. Then the connector started smoking, next the PSU went into short protection. Pipes is right don't use batteries with these unless you have fuse protection. That blown FET became a instant hard short, lithium cells give you no first or second chances with hard shorts. My black box is not running off batteries, until my BMS arrives.
 
Pipes

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
Edgedamage said:
Oh damm you where right about it getting scary fast!! I bought two of these boards, one was always on my work bench. Connected to a computer PSU with 20amp 12v rail. I was messing with it, doing current draw tests. I was using small pieces of metal and heating them to a dull glow, and then switching the PSU off. I used a empty Vapcap on my next test, a FET let the smoke out. Then the connector started smoking, next the PSU went into short protection. Pipes is right don't use batteries with these unless you have fuse protection. That blown FET became a instant hard short, lithium cells give you no first or second chances with hard shorts. My black box is not running off batteries, until my BMS arrives.
Click to expand...
This is also an example of why not to use those connectors. Hard solder is best.
Also, a good example of pushing these things past their limits. The VC is right up there pushing 6 amps or 72 watts. The advertised rating for the device is 100-120 watts depending on seller. I find many fail pushing much less. In fact, I've being changing out all the FETs for a couple months now because of quality issues. The FETs that come with them do not even have any markings so can't tell what they are using.
Thanks for sharing @Edgedamage ! :science:
 
Summer

Summer

Long Island, NY
Pipes said:
In fact, I've being changing out all the FETs for a couple months now because of quality issues. The FETs that come with them do not even have any markings so can't tell what they are using.
Click to expand...

@Pipes, do those of us with previously purchased units ( in my case specifically the PS) have to worry about this failure occurring?
 
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Summer,
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Edgedamage

Edgedamage

Well-Known Member
Summer said:
@Pipes, do those of us with previously purchased units ( in my case specifically the PS) have to worry about this failure occurring?
Click to expand...
Keep in mind I was abusing my work bench heater, I got it up to 9.8 amps. I was heating round bar stock, old needle nose pliers. Also what I believe killed the FET was the slow power off that PSU,s do when only one thing is connected to it. I feel if used only for the vapcap failures like this would be super rare.
 
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