VapCap Induction Heater for Desktop and in Car Use

[Mono Loco]

OK, sorry to dwell on this (really, I am sorry I'm so dense), but I am still confused about battery configurations. I have revisited the posts a few times, trying to grasp it, but I can't. Please confirm the following three questions:

A) If the battery bank I referenced earlier has (12) cells that are @ 3.7v, 3200mAh, then the total mAh would be (12) x 3200 ... so, 38400mAh ("as advertised") ... BUT, only if the all the batteries were configured in parallel "12P", and then the voltage would still be just 3.7v ... right???

B) However, because they are configured in 3S4P, their configured actual output goes UP and the overall capacity is lower ... to 11.1v, 12800mAh, right?

C) If "B", above, is correct, I am confused about Pipes' statement that the true mAh rating is 38400/4, so 9600mAh. It looks like he took the total potential mAh of the (12) cells and divided it by the number of "P" (from the 3S4P). Why did he calculate it this way?

So ... which is correct, "B" (12800mAh) or "C" (9600mAh)? Am I looking at two different things here?

I know for some folks this is "Batteries 101" ... basic fundamental kindergarten stuff. The trouble is ... I'm more like a preschooler!

Thanks, so much.

 

[TommyDee]

A) Right - 3s4p to get 11.1v. the ratio is actually 11.1v at 12,800mah [12.8ah]. Bottom line, you have limited watts. 3.7*3.2=each cells total capacity in watt/hours. Multiply that by 12 and you get the total watt/hours available in any 12-cell configuration. Divide the total watt/hours available by the voltage of 3s and you get the amp/hours.

B)See A [hint - yes]

C) 12,800mah is correct by the capacity formula. Its easy to mix up the denominator just doing the math in your head while high. Always easiest to convert to energy capacity (watt/hrs) and then divide by the nominal output voltage of interest to get current consumption in amps/hour.

 

[Pipes]

Hey guys, I've been getting lots of PMs from folks concerned about their packages showing or not showing in the tracking system and seem to be hung up. This is all due to the pandemic and the Post Office procedure changes and employee levels. As well as the volume levels have passed Chrismas season levels.
Please hang tight as the packages are out there in the rubber-gloved hands of the post office.
Thanks for the understanding and please stay safe!
Below is a letter I received from Canada Post.

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Notice of delivery delays due to large volumes and safety measures



We are advising Canadians across the country to expect delays with their parcel deliveries due to Christmas-level volumes we’re experiencing and important safety measures we’ve taken to protect our people. We recognize this has an impact on your business and your customers, so we want to keep you informed and also explain the reasons for these delays.

Canadians are shopping more online while they’re isolating at home, which means we’re processing and delivering parcels at levels only experienced during the busiest weeks of the Christmas season. The large volumes and additional safety measures for our employees – including physical distancing inside facilities that were never designed for keeping people two metres apart – mean it is taking longer to process parcels. We are working hard to serve our customers while doing so in a responsible manner. The safety of our people and the communities we serve must come first.

We are sharing this information with Canadians through a video we’re posting on our website and on social media. We invite you to watch the video. We are also encouraging our customers to track their parcels online through canadapost.ca or with our app.

Canada Post is proud to support your business and serve your customers during this challenging time. Thank you for trusting us with your shipping and delivery needs, and please stay safe.

 

[LabPong]

In an attempt to slow down my caldron....and speed up my jarhead....I ordered a couple PS's. One is 6amp and one is 7am.

I was going to put the 6amp on the jarhead to replace it's stock 5amp supply and the 7 amp one on the caldron to slow it down some from the 8amp stock one.

Well, I got the 6 amp one and it did not work for either IH's. It is a 12v 6 amp 50-60hz 1.5 amps. I think that last amp rating needs to be the 6 amp part?

The 7amp one is from amazon and has not shipped....I think I need to cancel it and figure out the differences in these laptop looking PS's. Here is the 7amp one I have on order.


Can anyone direct me to 6 and 7 amp PS's I could use for these two IH's.....thanks for any help.

 

[LongDraw]

So i have a caldron from pipes and a wooden enclosed one, with pipes IH guts. Something went wrong with the PS i had, but it might have been the other part of the cord.

I picked up two since cheap and order over seas. Here is the link below:

https://www.lightmalls.com/w-t5000-ac-100-240v-to-dc-12v-5a-power-adapter-power-supply

It is 5 amp, sorry, but you might find another one on there.

Does anyone have a good link to the actual cord that plugs into the PS and then the wall? i think that is the part that went bad, and right now using the one from my dabpress.

EDIT: Danngit, forgot. There are two more links phatpiggie shared for these things, see below:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181881169501?ul_noapp=true

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254276592128?ul_noapp=true

Based on what he said either works, and more reliable, but the first needs and enclosure and the 2nd needed another part he mentioned, something he was looking into.

 

[Mono Loco]

Well, I got the 6 amp one and it did not work for either IH's. It is a 12v 6 amp 50-60hz 1.5 amps. I think that last amp rating needs to be the 6 amp part?

From where did you get the "1.5 amps" information? The label you show lists the output as 12v ... 6.0A, with center pin POS (outer shield NEG). This should work. Do you have a volt meter (multi-meter) to verify its output? It is possible that the power supply is defective.

 

[Pipes]

In an attempt to slow down my caldron....and speed up my jarhead....I ordered a couple PS's. One is 6amp and one is 7am.

I was going to put the 6amp on the jarhead to replace it's stock 5amp supply and the 7 amp one on the caldron to slow it down some from the 8amp stock one.

Well, I got the 6 amp one and it did not work for either IH's. It is a 12v 6 amp 50-60hz 1.5 amps. I think that last amp rating needs to be the 6 amp part?

The 7amp one is from amazon and has not shipped....I think I need to cancel it and figure out the differences in these laptop looking PS's. Here is the 7amp one I have on order.


Can anyone direct me to 6 and 7 amp PS's I could use for these two IH's.....thanks for any help.

To lower the heat, it's better to lower the voltage or insertion depth rather than trying to play with the output current rating. What you are actually doing is trying to use the voltage drop which happens as you approach the supplies upper current limit.
The 5 amp supply is weaker because we are sitting near the upper current rating and the supply is actually dropping it's voltage down. Now supplies have different ways they act as approaching the upper limit. Some are absolute and cut out at there rated limit. Whereas, others will go past there limit briefly without problem as well as lower the voltage to maintain their rated "power" like 60 watts. Which is what the old 5 amp unit is.
Once a supplies rated current is passed what the device needs, a higher rating doesn't affect anything. Just un-used supplies power capability.
I suggest using a spacer from either cork or a piece cut from a silicone oven mitt. A 12mm circle is what is needed. The higher you go the slower to click. However, if you go too high, you will encounter uneven heating.
Now @TommyDee will lean towards lowering the voltage. Actually, the easiest way for this is to introduce a little load in series by adding a DC extender cable in the mix. A 4-foot AWG 20 length extension cable to extend the DC cord with 5.5x2.1mm connectors would suffice I bet.

 

[TommyDee]

Wire is a cheap resistor indeed It works nicely. Do keep tabs on the wire temps. 26 gauge is not a good idea, maybe. 4' @ 20 awg would make a notable change.

 

[Mono Loco]

A 4-foot AWG 20 length extension cable to extend the DC cord with 5.5x2.1mm connectors would suffice I bet.

Such a simple thing to suck some power! Along these lines, would a heavier gauge wire in a shorter length work, as well ... say a foot long length of AWD 10?

 

[LabPong]

Thanks for that explanation Pipes......puts it all in perspective for me....THANKS!

Ok......yea maybe limiting voltage will be my direction. I tried adding some silicone spacers, but as you say it caused more uneven extraction.

 

[Pipes]

Such a simple thing to suck some power! Along these lines, would a heavier gauge wire in a shorter length work, as well ... say a foot long length of AWD 10?

The other way around. The thicker the less resistance. I guessing, but 4' AWG20 or maybe AWG18 should drop the voltage by a volt or two... I could do the math if I knew the ohms per foot but experimenting is more fun. Don't go too thin as the wire heating maybe two much. You would likely not notice as we use for such a short duration but you have to think worst-case and the driver shorts out. You don't want the wire to burn.

 

[TommyDee]

Such a simple thing to suck some power! Along these lines, would a heavier gauge wire in a shorter length work, as well ... say a foot long length of AWD 10?

Or go double-ought [00] and have it generate power

Razin' of course but most designers are very aware of voltage losses due to current and heat consideration. There is an 'allowable temperature rise' that governs most circuit elements as a small subset of general rules and guidelines. Pushing 8 amps through a 10 gauge wire is often considered overkill. The again, pushing 8 amps through a 30 gauge wire is often called a fuse.

 

[Mono Loco]

The other way around. The thicker the less resistance.

Thanks, Teach! Silly me ... I thought the electricity would have to work harder to go through the thicker wire ... HaHaHa. Of course, I see it now. It's more like water free-flowing through a wide pipe, but then struggling to get through a narrow pipe and getting backed up due to the restriction (the resistance) ... right? yeah, must be so.

 

[Siebter]

right?

Right.

 

[TommyDee]

Funny, it is literally a hose for electrons. Why the fire hose is size 10 and the straw is size 30 is another story.

 

[Mono Loco]

I like nuts and bolts better. A 6-32 is smaller than a 10-32.

 

[TommyDee]

Exactly. That makes sense, huh.

 

[NYC_Frank]

Thanks guys for the great back n forth ... I got my Bachelors Degree in Electrical Engineering and you're all teaching me a thing or two and it's very much appreciated ...

I'm not a Caldron owner yet (I promise to be patient @Pipes ..... but I definetly want to try to lower the heat and will try the DC Extender cable route (4' AWG20 or maybe AWG18 with 5.5x2.1mm
connectors)

Thanks again boys and have a good night ...

... far out

 

[Pipes]

You're quite welcome.
Let us know how you make out.

 

[NYC_Frank]

You're quite welcome.
Let us know how you make out.

Do you think 5' would be too long? ...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/133233779533

 

[Mono Loco]

Regarding an extension cable to add some resistance, how would (or wouldn't) gathering and coiling the extra cable tightly, say with 3" diameter loops, effect things differently from leaving the extra length un-coiled and loose? What about gathering the coil in bow-tie like "accordion" loops (folds)? I'm not inquiring about physical stress on the cable, and the best way to minimize damage to the cable, but rather I am wondering how different ways to manage the extra length might affect the electrical properties ... if at all. I know that with Audio cables, cable management can affect noise levels, hums, etc., so I am wondering if there's any such potential mojo at work here, too. (?)

 

[TommyDee]

There is, but not to the degree you're considering @Mono Loco - this is a coil and will function like a coil so it will have inductive tendencies. Much of this type of cable is Coax so it is only one signal. It would not affect the device in the least as nominally the IH is an open circuit and fairly immune to line-level changes.

Since you brought it up, however, do you also know about Triboelectric effect on audio noise? Unfortunately, my neighborhood became my noise source.

[ "The cat want your creature @stark1" ]

 

[Mono Loco]

One of our fur-babies looks a lot like that one. OMG, if my wife saw her covered in Styrofoam peanuts like that she'd be screaming at me ... "she's gonna' choke, she's gonna' eat it, the fumes are gonna' kill her ... get it OFF of her, get it off NOW!!!! ... Hurry!!!! Stop LAUGHING and get it OFF!!!!

 

[TommyDee]

 

[Pipes]

Do you think 5' would be too long? ...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/133233779533

That will give a noticeable drop for sure.