VapCap Induction Heater for Desktop and in Car Use
- Thread starter Pipes
- Start date
-
- Tags
- dynavap induction heat vapcap
DirtyD
Well-Known Member
Have had a ps mini and a skeletor for a good while now. Absolutely no problems with either unit. Running like champs since I got them( skeletor is 8 months? older). Well the other day I was using the skeletor and was pretty high. High enough to push a freshly loaded bowl With No Cap on to the wooden dowel button. Once I realized I pulled out and the vapcap bowl had removed the dowel push button. Wow . I thought, great, I broke it. Well now the skeletor roasts the whole bowl perfectly! It worked great before! But now when I heat it button -less, it somehow gives a much bigger hit. Almost too much?
. These simple yet robust and well made machines continue to impress me. And you get so high you forget how to operate a vapcap. Hats off Mr Pipes, these take a licking and keep on ticking. Very happy customer. Still. Cheers to all esp Mr Pipes, D.
. These simple yet robust and well made machines continue to impress me. And you get so high you forget how to operate a vapcap. Hats off Mr Pipes, these take a licking and keep on ticking. Very happy customer. Still. Cheers to all esp Mr Pipes, D.
Last edited:
Have you reinstalled the dowel? It needs a heat shield or the VC will melt the top of the tactile switch.
If the dowel is lost, a small drop of JBQuick Weld, applied to the center of the tactile switch top will work just fine.
So you are just substituting the tach switch for the larger one. If that's the case, no need to worry about amp rating as the FET is handling the load. You need to treat the J1 as the trigger and needs V+ to turn on. The + also needs to connect to the NO (normally open) leg of the switch as well as +. As shown in your first picture.
If the dowel is lost, a small drop of JBQuick Weld, applied to the center of the tactile switch top will work just fine.
sorry, while posting in a hurry i forgot to ask the actuall question.
is such a wiring between the swtich and mosfet true?
So you are just substituting the tach switch for the larger one. If that's the case, no need to worry about amp rating as the FET is handling the load. You need to treat the J1 as the trigger and needs V+ to turn on. The + also needs to connect to the NO (normally open) leg of the switch as well as +. As shown in your first picture.
Last edited by a moderator:
RUDE BOY
Space is the Place
@sk8man121 This charger was linked earlier in this thread. . . 12.6v charger from Amazon.
caliganja420
Well-Known Member
Hey all, is anyone going past the click with the psm? Whats the optimal way to use it
You'll find everyone has a bit different measurement here. Lots of variables in the equation. Cap model/vintage, herb dryness/strain, AC/battery power and of course personal taste preference.
In design, my goal is getting as close as possible to the click without being too aggressive. Having the vapor ready before the click would be not preferable at all.
In design, my goal is getting as close as possible to the click without being too aggressive. Having the vapor ready before the click would be not preferable at all.
beefsupreme
Well-Known Member
Question for the Jarheads. How's this positioning look for the heater? Seems like the main heating area is around the N in the Dynavap logo.
I just got this new Omni, and have only used it with Pipes' Jarhead. It's been knocked around a bit, is the heater still aligned right? Only chance to really notice it is on this new cap. I use a torch with my other M sometimes.
I just got this new Omni, and have only used it with Pipes' Jarhead. It's been knocked around a bit, is the heater still aligned right? Only chance to really notice it is on this new cap. I use a torch with my other M sometimes.
started@52
Well-Known Member
Mine didn’t come with anything like that.Ideas?
Accidentally tried to heat my vapcap without a cap.
I obviously need a new piece of rubber/silicone? Is it still safe to use without the rubber?
The way the switch is set up isn't very forgiving for capless inserts. And looks like you went the full monty with the heat cycle. The VC gets pushed into the inside of the rubber tubing and when removed pulls and flanges the tubing out making it look like a splashdown. Might be able to trim off the melted portions..?
As long as the rhinestone is still in place, you can use it but be careful not to lose that rhinestone heat shield. The tubing is to provide protection from side to side movements as well as keeping the rhinestone from slipping off to the side.
It's just normal silicone tubing with 6mm center hole. I've got some high temp vacuum tubing on order as should help with this downfall. An automotive shop should have this tubing.
As long as the rhinestone is still in place, you can use it but be careful not to lose that rhinestone heat shield. The tubing is to provide protection from side to side movements as well as keeping the rhinestone from slipping off to the side.
It's just normal silicone tubing with 6mm center hole. I've got some high temp vacuum tubing on order as should help with this downfall. An automotive shop should have this tubing.
CanadianBakin
Well-Known Member
Is there a cheap source for Canadians to buy the RC batteries for the PSMini? I'd like to have a spare or two on hand.
This is the source linked in the FAQ, but $30 shipping really kills the deal. Plus it's FedEx, which usually means extra brokerage fees. They have free shipping over $50, but I don't need 6 batteries
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy...k-e-flight-compatible-eflb0995.html?wrh_pdp=3
This is the source linked in the FAQ, but $30 shipping really kills the deal. Plus it's FedEx, which usually means extra brokerage fees. They have free shipping over $50, but I don't need 6 batteries
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy...k-e-flight-compatible-eflb0995.html?wrh_pdp=3
MasonJar
Well-Known Member
I fly RC helicopters and one source of my lipos is RotorQuest in Toronto. Here is the link to one of the lipos I am using on my DIY Induction Heater (850mah 3C Lipo) at RotorQuest: https://www.rotorquest.com/categori....1V-45C-3S1P-Lipo-Battery-Pack-with-XT30-plug
Those are 5mm too long.
The battery that fits well is 55 x 30 x 25mm. The 55mm length is maxed out for space inside. A little room to play (2-3mm) with the 30mm and 25mm measurements.
I've done a fair bit of searching and they used to be on Amazon but no more. Can get similar on Ali but they are no longer any cheaper because of shipping. Hopefully, somebody comes across another Canadian source somewhere. To make even harder, remember to look for JST type connector or you'll also need an XT to JST adapter.
Nothing in the "immediate" future. 
I do have an eye open for an alternative cheap enclosure to take over the Jarhead model. Something the BareBones driver can drop into so the drivers can all have the same configuration. Want something to accommodate those that just want a home unit that don't want to deal with batteries. The same objective that the JH currently fills. Leaving fancy enclosures for others like @phattpiggie to handle the ones that want a deluxe enclosure.
Looking for something about 1/2 size to the PSM or 65 X 42 X 50mm height. These are the minimum measurements I'm after. Ideally, since the PSM is extruded aluminum, and the height is 100mm for the PSM, you'd think there would be the same 65x42xlength in different lengths but haven't found as of yet.
I'm also still working on tactile activation switch improvements as this is definitely the weakest link in the design as capless VC inserts do not fair well. The tactile switch shaft fits inside the VC's open end and the heat melts the rubber protection tube. This was mentioned a few posts back and that particular case was resolved by trimming up the melted tube and re-installing it. A work in progress right now.
I do have an eye open for an alternative cheap enclosure to take over the Jarhead model. Something the BareBones driver can drop into so the drivers can all have the same configuration. Want something to accommodate those that just want a home unit that don't want to deal with batteries. The same objective that the JH currently fills. Leaving fancy enclosures for others like @phattpiggie to handle the ones that want a deluxe enclosure.
Looking for something about 1/2 size to the PSM or 65 X 42 X 50mm height. These are the minimum measurements I'm after. Ideally, since the PSM is extruded aluminum, and the height is 100mm for the PSM, you'd think there would be the same 65x42xlength in different lengths but haven't found as of yet.
I'm also still working on tactile activation switch improvements as this is definitely the weakest link in the design as capless VC inserts do not fair well. The tactile switch shaft fits inside the VC's open end and the heat melts the rubber protection tube. This was mentioned a few posts back and that particular case was resolved by trimming up the melted tube and re-installing it. A work in progress right now.
I'm in enough trouble as it is @Pipes without you telling folk I make envlosures
For those of you who may be wondering about flying with a PSM this is how I've gone about it with Ryan Air.
The battery must not be over 160kw, kilo watts. The PSM is only 9.6kw so well below the limit.
I removed the batteries and put them in a Lipo guard bag.
I sailed thru customs this morning and I've got two batteries and two heaters.
I probably could have left them in the PSM but I didn't and they never batted an eye lid.
That's along with 5 stems and the paraphernalia that goes with them.
For those of you who may be wondering about flying with a PSM this is how I've gone about it with Ryan Air.
The battery must not be over 160kw, kilo watts. The PSM is only 9.6kw so well below the limit.
I removed the batteries and put them in a Lipo guard bag.
I sailed thru customs this morning and I've got two batteries and two heaters.
I probably could have left them in the PSM but I didn't and they never batted an eye lid.
That's along with 5 stems and the paraphernalia that goes with them.
Sketch420
Well-Known Member
What kind of heli's do you fly? I used to fly cp heli's and drones a few years ago. It was a blast flying those things. Especially in an open field or make a obstacle course out of trees and branches. The only thing that sucked is fixing them every crash ha.
MasonJar
Well-Known Member
I flew drones (FPV) a while back but found it boring compared to helis... I have a couple of helis, smallest have 360mm blades and the largest 700mm blades.
A few pics...
Here's an FPV Drone flight... circa 2013 when you could fly drones everywhere... At the time gimbals to cancel vibrations where still at their infancy...
Last edited:
Nice video! Must have been early in the morning judging from the lack of people. Those Bluff grounds usually have tons of picnics going on. You would get into huge trouble these days as that coastline is classified as a no-fly zone now. I have a Hudsan H109S which I've had up a few times. Fun stuff, too bad they added so many regulations now. 
This is the first test flight behind my backyard last spring. Was nervous as shit.
This is the first test flight behind my backyard last spring. Was nervous as shit.
muunch
hotboxing the cockpit
Ok, stupid question time!
For some reason, I want to see if there's some sort of USB charging cord I could use to charge my PSM off of this big ass battery bank I have for my Switch and other electronics, just in case I somehow get stuck somewhere where there are no power sockets, and is also not my car.
I found this though I'm not sure it's the right voltage/watts/etc, it serves as a good example.
Now, it may be a completely idiotic question, but I am still curious.
Very specific use, but I think it'd be nice.
For some reason, I want to see if there's some sort of USB charging cord I could use to charge my PSM off of this big ass battery bank I have for my Switch and other electronics, just in case I somehow get stuck somewhere where there are no power sockets, and is also not my car.
I found this though I'm not sure it's the right voltage/watts/etc, it serves as a good example.
Now, it may be a completely idiotic question, but I am still curious.
Very specific use, but I think it'd be nice.
Sorry but only a 3S charger should be used. And I recommend sticking at a 1 amp charge rate. For the most part, you can really only easily get online but the good news is they are not expensive to buy. Always a good idea to get a 3S car charger version as well if you're on the road a lot. 
muunch
hotboxing the cockpit
I got this car charger found in the FAQ, just waiting on delivery. 
Thinking of some apocalyptic situation where I couldn't charge my IH... a true nightmare
Thinking of some apocalyptic situation where I couldn't charge my IH... a true nightmare