TinyMight Vaporizer

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAAA! (TM/FW7/OAB/CC-H&A)
the cheap Amazon bags of various sized colored silicone plugs is what I have on all my rigs and device MP’s, keeps the swamp water ready for the next day. Maybe my fear of bugs and spiders, as I read once of a vaporist swallowing an unwelcome bug in the MP, while inhaling…… YUCK!

Disgusted Nick Miller GIF by New Girl
 
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paradise

Member
I could use some reassurance regarding calibration x)
Specifically, the point where it's vibrating and waiting for you to choose.
I set it on 5, it gave off a blue color, then I held down the button and it vibrated a bit and did its usual turn on battery life vibe (I let go once it started doing that)

My question, blue color means I dialed it back by 3 levels? Also, is it supposed to turn on or remain off after calibration?
I kind of got mixed up in the process and did it twice, both times the same procedure I mentioned
 
paradise,

kilo

Well-Known Member

Oh and I forgot to mention, it adds extra cooling, with extra vapor path, really fun to use dry with pieces as well, like my swiss hole rig that already has right angles within it, the drop-down adds extra right angles, I use that rig dry because that's how good the cooling is with all that maze pathway :haw:
I'm really happy with the OGB 18mm j-hook, and haven't required anything in the way of supplementary cooling. But I remember that you posted a picture of custom (?) version where the tube is bent left before the mouthpiece. I realized that this would definitely add elegance to the experience, with the TM and the j-hook mouthpiece both oriented in the same direction. Checking OGB's site, I don't see this option pictured. If I contact them, will my description be accurate enough for them to understand my request or is there a better way to refer to this option so they'll know exactly what I want?
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAAA! (TM/FW7/OAB/CC-H&A)
I'm really happy with the OGB 18mm j-hook, and haven't required anything in the way of supplementary cooling. But I remember that you posted a picture of custom (?) version where the tube is bent left before the mouthpiece. I realized that this would definitely add elegance to the experience, with the TM and the j-hook mouthpiece both oriented in the same direction. Checking OGB's site, I don't see this option pictured. If I contact them, will my description be accurate enough for them to understand my request or is there a better way to refer to this option so they'll know exactly what I want?

The one I have and designed that is now available, is the sidecar style:

Is this not the one you already have? Mine uses narrower tubing, has 18 mm female connection, and the mouthpiece is bent a bit more into a right angle is all...

They are similar in use to the Chinese ones from Genesis Glass (Lumin88 and Yingmin5) with the spikes from here
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAAA! (TM/FW7/OAB/CC-H&A)
I've got the standard 18mm with the bugle mouthpiece. I want the sidecar style in 18mm – I'll inquire and see what he can do. Thanks!

Oh! Yeah just write in the notes that you want it in 18mm when you order that one, that is what others have done, simple :tup:

I absolutely hate that type of flared mouthpiece he offers, originally I got the triple right angle side car hook with one, and he accidentally made it in 14mm, my roommate uses it with the rogue now, so it's good that it got some use finally because I really hate it haha can't stress that enough so then I had him make the 18mm one with flat pinched mouthpiece more like the one that is offered on the website now and it is perfect... That Chinese one is also available in either style! Plain cut is another option...
 

Dr. G

Active Member
I am not sure if its me...just me. Every time I go to pay it shows an ERROR sign...anyone else experiencing this? It says they are in stock...but, then I go to pay and it tells me that. Disappointed.
 
Dr. G,

fiixed

Active Member
Thanks for sharing this. $10 shipping is still some bullshit but I like how you did nearly all the legwork/math for us so I updated your post with links while putting my cart together :tup:

Qty 12 N1.00X012 : 1mm CS X 12mm ID (NBR) Buna-N 70 Duro Metric O-Ring

$0.09ea $1.08

Qty 36 V1.00X005 : 1mm X 5mm V75 Fluorocarbon FKM O-Rings 75 Durometer Black

$0.15ea $5.40

Qyt 24 V1.00X006 : 1mm X 6mm V75 Fluorocarbon FKM O-Rings 75 Durometer Black

$0.16ea $3.84

Qty 48 V1.00X008 : 1mm X 8mm V75 Fluorocarbon FKM O-Rings 75 Durometer Black

$0.19ea $9.12


Subtotal $19.44
Shipping Cost $9.99 <--🖕
Tax Total (%) $0.00
Total $29.43

Changing topics, is it true that the condenser needn't be seated all the way? If I was to make one complaint of my first days in Anville it's that the "wide open" setting really isn't and it's making it more restricted than I'd like with my j-hook and bubbler. I have my middle bit screwed in all the way but I have also been snugging the condenser down rather than just letting the bowl push it mostly in. I will promptly stop doing that if it's unnecessary and reducing the airflow.

When we say "wide open" we don't mean letting air in to dilute the vapor do we? Does all the air that's flowing pass through the bowl or are we diluting the vapor with more open airflow?
So this was a fantastic post in the Anvil thread. Somebody worked out the exact o-rings on the Anvil, then cross-matched them with these (much cheaper than the Anvil online store) o-rings at theoringstore.com . Has anyone done a similar exercise with the TinyMight (worked out the exact o-rings and found them at a local online retailer)?
 

checkyourlibido

Well-Known Member
So this was a fantastic post in the Anvil thread. Somebody worked out the exact o-rings on the Anvil, then cross-matched them with these (much cheaper than the Anvil online store) o-rings at theoringstore.com . Has anyone done a similar exercise with the TinyMight (worked out the exact o-rings and found them at a local online retailer)?
No. But it sounds like you just volunteered.
 

Cheebsy

Organicly inVerted
Unfortunately the variance of glass makes it impossible to be sure what sizes will fit. TM themselves provide me than one size on a pack of cu spares. It has been measured and people have bought alternatives with mixed results. Because the same tolerances front the will aren't involved here You shouldn't go through many so just grab some spares when you first purchase. Mine is 2 years old and I've replaced one cu o ring so far by doing something stupid lol.
 

Dr. G

Active Member
I am not sure if its me...just me. Every time I go to pay it shows an ERROR sign...anyone else experiencing this? It says they are in stock...but, then I go to pay and it tells me that. Disappointed.
I managed to have really nice contact with TinyMight and my credit card went through...he fixed it! Or she fixed it...don't know. I am really excited about having my own. I learned lots from this forum so, thanks.
 

Vaporific

All who wander are not lost...
Unfortunately the variance of glass makes it impossible to be sure what sizes will fit.
+2, as in if you have multiple stock stems you may find this out. Like mine - the inside diameter and outside diameter vary slightly. The most frustrating thing is the stem with the larger inside diameter and the CU gently and slowly slides down on its own. Worthy of a blooper video or something. The spare ones I bought from Ville, i.e. The Maker who is male, BTW, worked better than the ones I bought on eBay (twice from two different sellers).

I recently dispensed with using an extra dome screen with my short stock TM stems. However they may help in preventing the CU from slipping due to the variance of the inside diameter. I may want to revisit using a screen again with one of my stems. We live and learn. :peace:
 

paradise

Member
First try what the TM site recommends as this usually fixes issues due to heater not getting proper current. You don’t want to loosen the screw all the way, just enough so you can wiggle the top and bottom plates. After, be sure the plates are lined properly with the wood body and tighten the screw well. Let us know if this works or you need further troubleshooting.
Hello again =)
I'm beginning to sense degradation in the power already, I'm still able to get a nice puff out on the 1st warm-up but almost nothing after that.
Should I use this trick again or is it time for something deeper?
Thanks!
 
paradise,

cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
Personally I have rarely had to do more than the loosen and then tighten the screw thing when I have had power reduction on my TM. One way or another it has always been a contact issue. You may want to try cleaning the threads in your battery door. It is also important to wait for the vibration if your are using on demand mode or the additional red light if you are using session mode before you start hitting the device. If you don't wait for those signals the results may be unstable.
 

paradise

Member
Personally I have rarely had to do more than the loosen and then tighten the screw thing when I have had power reduction on my TM. One way or another it has always been a contact issue. You may want to try cleaning the threads in your battery door. It is also important to wait for the vibration if your are using on demand mode or the additional red light if you are using session mode before you start hitting the device. If you don't wait for those signals the results may be unstable.
I've done the screw thing a few days ago so suppose I'll do it again. Just to be clear, by battery door you mean the cover that one spins to access the battery, yes? Not the actual connection area down there
Ah I always wait for the vibration, actually didn't know the session part though, never noticed the additional light but only tried it a few times anyway
 

cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
Yes, the coinlike door that spins to open. Whenever I replace the battery I rub the inside of that door on my jeans just to keep it clean with no oxidation. I have never had to actually clean the threads but others have done that. If you had an older unit some have had to pull up the contact at the bottom after repeatedly dropping the battery into the chamber, but the newer TMs have a solder or something to obviate that need. I always hold the TM horizontally when replacing the battery and have never compressed the contact.
Yeah, when using session mode that you enable by holding in the button after the third hit, if you watch the bottom you will see another light activate after 5 or 6 seconds or so. You don't want to start hitting in session mode until this comes on. Also in session mode the light stays on rather than blinking.
 

paradise

Member
Yes, the coinlike door that spins to open. Whenever I replace the battery I rub the inside of that door on my jeans just to keep it clean with no oxidation. I have never had to actually clean the threads but others have done that. If you had an older unit some have had to pull up the contact at the bottom after repeatedly dropping the battery into the chamber, but the newer TMs have a solder or something to obviate that need. I always hold the TM horizontally when replacing the battery and have never compressed the contact.
Yeah, when using session mode that you enable by holding in the button after the third hit, if you watch the bottom you will see another light activate after 5 or 6 seconds or so. You don't want to start hitting in session mode until this comes on. Also in session mode the light stays on rather than blinking.
I'll give that door a little swipe, there's a lil bit of grime on the sides of it between the lines. Do people clean the screen inside above the heater or there's usually no need? I feel like it could get pretty sticky with all the herb pressing up to it over time and might impact performance, although probably not by a lot, the tiny is quite a beast
I believe I have the newer model, received it late '21, I remember they put out the black edition shortly after and it wasn't much of a success due to the color wearing off, imo the wood is more iconic anyway. I too slide the battery when replacing, never drop it in so contacts should be fine down there
I'll give it the screw treatment tomorrow and check back, just hoping this doesn't become an often routine with the TM :/
 
paradise,
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Siebter

Less soul, more mind
Do people clean the screen inside above the heater or there's usually no need? I feel like it could get pretty sticky with all the herb pressing up to it over time and might impact performance, although probably not by a lot, the tiny is quite a beast

Usually there's indeed no need, it definitely never got stuck to the point where it would hinder the performance on me. It's wise to keep an eye on it, but beside the occasional crumb here and there it stays surprisingly clean. Or should. :-)

I'll give it the screw treatment tomorrow and check back, just hoping this doesn't become an often routine with the TM :/

Actually that treatment should last for quite a while, I did it once or twice (my TM is a very old one), last time about three months ago or so.
 
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