Discontinued ThermoVape

OF

Well-Known Member
darkrom said:
So the Pure-Flow looks like exactly what I want, but it also looks like you are saying it is really made for the rev and not the T1? I don't know what you mean by expert vaporist, but I've owned a dozen vapes or so now, I hope I qualify because this sounds awesome.​
How does it extend battery life exactly? I'm very interested because it sounds like what I really wanted for this thing :)

I think these are the questions. I would like to know the answers as well. I would especially like to know how one goes about determining if they are an expert vaporists before placing the order? :D

*Edited to correct typos*

OK, here's my take. I suggested a filter way back in the dark early days (before the first unit shipped) as this is a key problem for some medical users (the target user group). I think this is for that, no need to filter oil vapors, there's no debris there.

It introduces restrictions, the 'bigger cloud' guys will hate it. It's not for them. It's for special cases. You need to be skilled enough in the area to appreciate that.....that's what I think the expert part is about. Like the old joke about 'what kind of mileage will the Jaguar get?', 'if you have to ask, it's not for you'???

I suspect it extends battery life modestly since as the post says you end up throttling back on heating, something you could (but generally don't) do without it. FWIW, I think guys obsess on battery life, it's exactly the same deal as MFLB, right?

How'd I do?

OF

Edit: I forgot, none of that has anything to do with "pure air flow" that I can see. I doubt that's what he was asking based on that? OF
 
OF,

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
I think you're right about that. A lovely thing for sure, but not much use with T1.

The problem as I see it with trying to stir the pot is not simple. A arm or wire attached to the cap would be easy to cobble up with the holes available, but that would only get the load to rotate with the cap unless you also rigged something from below. Even then, I think the mix would be random and partial. A rotary scheme is blocked by the mouthpiece. Perhaps a two piece cap could be made to get around this by letting the center section with mouthpiece rotate? Or maybe 'pop up' to increase the volume to allow shaking to mix before pushing the top back down for the next hit?

Anyway, some serious work on what is basically a very simple machine. Perhaps eventually a cap replacement could upgrade existing units? For myself, I'll keep dumping the load into my palm to recrush a few times before depending on shaking (loosen the cap first) to mix just like I do with MFLB.

OF
Got my TV Friday and will post a review once I figure out more of the learning thing. Although not that much to learn but surprised at how hot to hold it does get by the end of the bowl.
Anyway, yes for sure, absolutely they need a convenient way to stir the herb and keep those intake holes clear. Well, why not do both at once.......
Right away my holes clogged after 4-5 hits. My herb, at present is very fine grind. But thought this won't do so using a screen. Much better.
Found you waste pulls if you don't stir almost after every pull. Using OF's technique of damping in hand and putting back in bowl. Again surprised at the bowl temperature is not an issue.
So here's an idea which would definitely be a big selling factor if done at production level.
You would need a centre hole between the other holes in the cap. A blade attached to a shaft similar to the way a meat grinder goes together. Such that when shaft is turned the blade cuts around the intake holes thus cleaning that side. Now this shaft can come up high enough to clear the mouth piece but low enough to stay inside the tip so it can be turned by removing the tip. If this was done at production a keyed or slotted entry to the tip could be incorporated to allow for turning via the drip tip.
Now let's move to the end of the blade and have it bend back towards the center of bowl by 2-3 mm. So now when it turns it moves the herb around as well as clears the holes.
As for implimentation I invision this piece been inserted from the bottom and a sleeve of some sort slide on from the top and something twistable affixed to the top of the shaft and fits into the driptip. Or attached to the drip tip would be nice.
Any thoughts?
Just an idea. :science:
 
Pipes,

OF

Well-Known Member
More fun ideas. I'm betting that one of two or three things will happen. TV will come up with some (no doubt real slick) way to do this, or some clever guy will exploit our wonderful Capitalist system and design and market an aftermarket cap (like we see with gadgets on other vapes) or conclusive testing will show that the design is mature and what we think would be cool isn't possible or practical. Time will tell.

I noticed I didn't burn myself (very often or badly) on the hot metal doing the 'dump, crush and reload' drill. I suspect it's because the rim of the bowl is thin and long and cools very quickly? In any event, experimentation is recommended along the road to discovery.

Done right, it's part of the fun as I see it. As has been said, 'the TV wants to teach you to use it effectively'. But for that to happen you need to do your part and ask the right questions.

Then again, like sex, even the bad experiences can be pretty good anyway.......

Enjoy your new tool, it's a powerful one for sure.

OF
 
OF,

weedemon

enthusiast
I noticed I didn't burn myself (very often or badly) on the hot metal doing the 'dump, crush and reload' drill. I suspect it's because the rim of the bowl is thin and long and cools very quickly? In any event, experimentation is recommended along the road to discovery.

I have sensitive hands and I have felt the heat of the bowl being too much for me to handle at times. not everytime, but once you are really getting it going it's too hot for me to comfortable touch.
that said I have switched to dumping it in the cap and shaking it around. Our cool member from HK posted this first. I am sorry I forget your name. :( started with a P maybe? hehe too baked to remember.

this method is great and doesn't spill my herbs or burn me. i'm happy with that.
 
weedemon,

darkrom

Great Scott!
Yes questionS with answerS :lol:

I just want to know more about what I need skill with to enjoy this new device. Basically hurry up and give me info so I can hurry up and give you money :popcorn: This looks like exactly the kind of thing I'd want in the TV, and actually pretty much all vapes...
 
darkrom,

NewSchoolExplorer

Active Member
So I also asked about the TVs Moisture Filter and got no reply. I might be jumping on the Rev soon (still need to do some homework against of competition). The Filter seems not to be as useful for me as its just a filter that can be soaked in water (amount of water would be really small and probably gets sucked up in a few hits) UNLESS someone has a different experience with it.

With the Glass Adapter I am not 100% sure it warrents the $30 w/ tubing for the rev.
Because I can make one with an Extreme Q Elbow (~$10) and Medical Grade Silicon Tubing (~$2)=12
For less than $12 I can have a GONG attachment

After the initial excitement and thinking things thru it feels as if all the new accessory products out are not as good as I initially thought. (If TV lowered the prices I might purchase it)

(Thanks for allowing me to think out loud)
 
NewSchoolExplorer,

weedemon

enthusiast
I just want to know more about what I need skill with to enjoy this new device. Basically hurry up and give

I would think we would need to relearn the technique of hitting a bong in a fashion so that it milked the TV properly to produce the best clouds.

With the TV you have probably found that a certain way of hitting it will give you nice consistent clouds right? well when you are doing that with a bong or what not instead of the mouth piece, it's gonna be a little different.

It was exactly the same deal with my mflb and the water piece adapter. a piece of cake, once you understood it.
:) you will have no issue I am sure man :)

With the Glass Adapter I am not 100% sure it warrents the $30 w/ tubing for the rev.
Because I can make one with an Extreme Q Elbow (~$10) and Medical Grade Silicon Tubing (~$2)=12
For less than $12 I can have a GONG attachment

After the initial excitement and thinking things thru it feels as if all the new accessory products out are not as good as I initially thought. (If TV lowered the prices I might purchase it)

I feel the same way personally. No offence Thermovape. I love the company and the product! the quality is top notch. Customer service has been fantastic too.

but that stirring tool for 25 seems to me should be considerably less. It looks really neat and I would love to see how it performs with contact with oils. but at that price i'm not going to find out quite yet. :p

The TV water piece adapter Is another thing i would want to purchase though not sure what type of material I would want to get.

I have actually got my rev running though my bong already just using the mflb whip tubing I have. :)
 
weedemon,

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
Well I received my T1 Friday and here is my experience so far. Still learning, any further advise would be much appreciated.
I started with VG., both the bat and the original. Great product if you can find a reliable constant 1" flame lighter. Finally found a lighter that fit the criteria after trying like 8 types, some of which cost a mint, I found a BenzOMatic and was huge.....LOL These did the trick but the bat was physically hot and I made a jacket for it.
Then I got the IOLite.......mmmmm love that bad boy. This is why this T1 has a pretty high bar to surpass. Only 2 complaints about the IO.
Biggest been you are pretty much hostage as far as it dictates the amount of herb. +5% / -10% tolerance after all my experimenting. Using full to the rim as a guide. Any more or less and the vape consistency and fullness suffers. But fill via mouth vacuum and wipe access off and you have my real concern: It is a must you have 20 minutes of interrupted time. Some might not think this a problem but in my case it is. My second complaint also minor for some and some even like it. The hissing sound. Not that loud but if trying to conceal it, it becomes a problem.
I don't think I'll retire this puppy yet.
So far the T1 seems to eat up the batteries like crazy but starting to think getting them so hot so fast might have some thing to do with it. Still figuring it out. Have had a few vapes that "compare" to the IO but in no way surpass it "yet". I do see a real problem with the powder herb as well. Have more coming tomorrow I hope. I plan to treat it a bit different. You see the IO likes the finer the better grind almost like dust (again, it dictates) and looks like opposite the T1 to function as I've been reading. So far here's the math:
IO:
1 level bowl very fine grind dry herb, ( I think it's about a 1/2 gm bowl)
1 full tank gas (refill in seconds)
18 - 22 good hauls ( 3 - 4 wimpys)
20 minutes time
T1:
With fine herb (A NO NO ???)
1 level bowl very fine herb (I'm comparing to IO around 1/3 gm???)
1 set full batteries
3 - 4 good hauls ( 5 - 8 wimpys)
Around 8 minutes (Hoping for flexibility)
So far really not that impressed. Hopefully things will change once I change the herb grind.
Too early to say but the T1 has yet to win me over. I even tried to vape some of the herb left from the T1 in the already hot IO and I did get a couple more hauls. This hopefully is still due to the grind as the holes block fast and also I suspect fell into the heater core.
This was even worse when I had run out of herb but had a glass in the shed full of left over VG waste. Wowww what a mistake in thinking that. If I used the IO as a reference, for how well everything is leached, I would say the VG is around the 75% mark. The T1 so far is conflicting here, low amounts of vapes for amount used but not that bad in the re-vaoe test? Does it mean more "invisible" vapor?
Also, have the REV attachment, can't wait to give that a try. Hopfully later this week.
Oh, with all this typing and finishing off an IO session, it's telling me to relax for tonight.
:mmmm:
 
Pipes,

Haywood

Onward Thru the Fog
I feel as if I've been sufficiently taught by my new T1 to use it successfully in most any circumstance. So I thought I'd share some thoughts. As usual, they're just my thoughts; they're not rules. I'll probably change my mind about some of them after more use. I'll probably ramble.

In my previous message, I mentioned that as OF keeps pointing out, the T1 is a true convection vaporizer, and there are two parts to convection vaporizing. (1) Getting the heat source up to temp and keeping it there, and (2) getting the hot air to go through the load, heating it up and then leaching out the good stuff on its way into your lungs.

Generally Speaking, and also worth repeating here:

The count to ten preheat takes care of getting the T1's heat chamber up to temp. But that's only half the equation. You gotta suck hot air through the T1 for a while to heat up the load and the bowl before the hot air will carry off the good stuff. Once the chamber and bowl and load are warm/hot, it doesn't take much skill to get huge sweet clouds. After two or three consecutive hits, almost no pre-heat is necessary, and great vapor exists as soon as you start inhaling. From a cold start however, it's a different story. It can take another 15 or 30 seconds of sucking air before you start getting any good stuff, even after preheating by holding down the switch for ten seconds. Remember, just holding the switch won't do it, even if you count to a hundred (don't do this); with a true convection vaporizer you have to also move hot air through the load.

Some breathing definitions:

Two ways to get stuff into your lungs. Direct Inhale, by which I mean that you breathe in to your lungs directly. Vapor goes from your vaporizer past your lips, through your mouth, down your throat, and into your lungs, all at once. A nice, long steady pull, for maybe 15 to 30 seconds. One action. And Puffing, by which I mean drawing into your mouth first, not directly into your lungs. Then you can draw what's in your mouth into your lungs, if you want, or just exhale it from your mouth without it ever going near your lungs. In either case, two actions.

Direct inhaling, once the T1 and load are up to temp, seems to be the best way to get consistently great hits. A nice steady 15 to 30 second continuous strong inhale. Then maybe ten seconds to let the T1 recover (while you're holding your breath), and you can immediately take another steady 15 to 30 second hit. This method will reward you with great hit after great hit. But 15 to 30 second steady continuous inhales don't appear to be the best way to get a cold T1 going.

Puffing is what you see Sherlock Holmes doing when he gets his (tobacco) pipe going. You know, long wooden match, huge flame, puff, puff, puff, monstrous combustion, huge clouds of rank smelling smoke filling the room... Don't worry if you have no idea who Sherlock Holmes is. Anyway, in this case (T1, not Meerschaum) a puff needs to be a full one second strong draw to a full mouth. Not a tiny puff. Not a short sharp puff. A steady strong one second puff until your mouth is full. Remember you're trying to heat up the load by drawing hot air through it. The pause between puffs lets the heat chamber recover and lets the temperature keep going up. Puffing is a good way to bring the load up to vaporizing temperature, particularly when your T1 is cold, and you've just loaded a fresh, moist bowlful.

Some specifics:

I don't grind my load, I crumble it between my fingers. I found that a light crumble worked just as well or better than a medium or fine grind. Plus the top holes (in the cap) don't clog as quickly. And less stuff gets into your mouth. And less stuff falls into the chamber via the holes in the bottom of the bowl. I guess certain hugely sticky, unbelievably fresh stuff might need cutting, rather than crumbling, but the strains I've tried do best with a light finger crumble. ymmv. You don't want a superfine, dusty grind. I fill my bowl about 2/3 full. The ratio of "tasty" hits versus "tastes-like-popcorn" hits goes up if you use smaller loads. I haven't experimented much with very small loads (less than half full bowl) yet, but it's on my list.

I use the bristle brush that came with my Volcano, and q-tips dipped in iso to keep the bowl and cap clean. Piece of cake to keep the T1 clean. Another tip is to remove the cap every two hits or so and blow into the mouthpiece. This will clear the tiny air holes in the top, and keep your draw working. Don't forget to remove the mouthpiece and clean inside the top of the cap now and then. I haven't felt any need whatsoever to boil anything yet. Simple cleaning seems to do the trick.

Cold T1, fresh, moist, crumbled load, fresh batteries:

I preheat the T1 for 10 seconds (15 seconds if the batteries are half used or more). Then I start taking puffs at one second intervals, holding down the power switch the whole time, during the puff and during the pause. One second strong steady puff, check for taste, no taste, exhale from mouth, watching for vapor. No vapor, pause one second, then take another one second steady strong puff. When I start to get a little taste, or my previous exhale-from-mouth shows a little vapor, I know that the load has gotten hot enough to start giving off the good stuff. Sometimes this takes two puffs, sometimes it takes ten puffs. I just keep taking a puff and a pause until I see (or taste) some vapor. At that point I switch over to my usual 20 second direct inhale. Works every time. Only thing that changes is how many puffs it takes to get the T1 ready.

If it doesn't work, either your batteries are dead, your holes are clogged, or your load is played. (I suppose I should include or your switch is broken/misaligned, or your heating core has burned out). Do you have to take more preheating puffs without getting vapor than you would expect? Maybe you need to stir your load. Maybe the holes in the cap are mostly clogged. Maybe the batteries are actually discharged. You can easily check each of these things. Unscrew the cap and look at its holes. If they're clogged, blow them out (by blowing into the mouthpiece with the cap off). While you have the cap off, look at your load. Is it brown in the center and green on the outside? If so, then stir it. You won't get any significant vapor if all you're doing is channeling hot air through a narrow scorched tunnel in the center of your load; you will needlessly and frustratingly waste the charge on a pair of batteries though. Those two things look OK?, then dump the load from the bowl into the cap, and press the switch, and look to see if the coils start glowing orange. If they don't, you need to put in fresh batteries. It's not rocket science unless you want it to be.

Anyway, once the T1 is "warmed up," I change my method.

Warm T1, warm load, reasonably charged batteries:

After the second hit, I dump the load in my hand, stir it around, and scoop it back up into the bowl. The bowl isn't too hot to handle after two hits, but after that the bowl gets hotter than I want for scooping up stuff from my hand. So I just loosen the cap, invert the T1, and shake the load every subsequent two or three hits; the load is always dry by then, and shaking seems to mix it up just fine.

By the third and subsequent repeated hits the T1 is hot, and my preheating is down to one second, or not at all. If it's been a little while since the last hit, but the T1 is still pretty warm, I may preheat for five seconds. In either case, with a hot T1, it generally takes only a single puff to get a little vapor. Sometimes (rarely) I have to take a second puff. Then I take my 20 second direct inhale, letting go of the power switch about five seconds before I'm done with the inhale. Once the T1 is hot, I leave the power switch off until just before I take my next hit. It really depends on how hot the T1 is, and how long its been since there was power to the heating chamber.

So the short form of all this is: Preheat when necessary, hold down the switch and puff until you get vapor. Then take full inhales until you fall over, only keeping the switch down when you're inhaling, and don't forget to stir between every two or three hits.

Oh, and if you just hate wasting anything, remember that when you're preheating the load by puffing, you don't have to immediately exhale it from your mouth; you can inhale it into your lungs. I usually don't, but read on...

Breaking the rules:

There's only one "gotcha" with this method; I really like the stuff you get from the first two hits of a fresh load. The stuff that volatilizes at the lower temps. The stuff with most of the taste and smell. The stuff that rounds out the thc/cbn parts and gives each strain its unique taste and effect. So I don't want to waste that stuff puffing. What I do is just rely on the direct inhale method for the first two hits in every load. I don't get vapor clouds in the first two hits using this method, but halfway through the first hit I get the most wonderful taste, and even though there's no significant visible vapor until the end of the second hit, I get the full effect of the strain. It also preheats the fresh load, removing any remaining moisture, and prepares everything for the next four hits, which are always killer (if not as sweet). Once I've done the first two hits, I revert to the "puff to get it going first, only as necessary" method.
 

Haywood

Onward Thru the Fog
And finally (wouldn't fit in my last message):

So don't be afraid to let your T1 teach you the way YOU want it to be. Understand the two parts of how a convection vaporizer works, and use that to your advantage. The puff method I detail above works for me. It means I don't necessarily have to figure out why sometimes it takes two puffs to get things going, and sometimes it takes ten. I just have to know that if I puff first, and wait to see a little vapor before switching over to direct inhalation before taking a big hit, I'm a happy Haywood.

You also have to temper this within the circumstance of how you're using your T1. Sometimes I'm at home, sitting at my desk. At home, I like to take a hit, wait five minutes, take another hit, etc. So the T1 pretty much cools off completely between hits. I have to use the "Cold T1" technique for almost every hit. This uses up batteries quickly, but since I'm at home, and the charger is sitting on the desk next to me, it doesn't really matter. If I'm at work, it's going to be a completely different scenario. I may only get a 10 minute break, and want to sneak off to the bathroom and take three or four or five quick hits one after the other. So after the second or third hit, I won't have to pre-heat the T1 anymore, maybe just once if I pause more than 30 seconds between hits. And after the second hit, I may not have to puff at all, as the load doesn't have time to cool down much, and the bowl itself is hot and keeping it warm. Just keep in mind that you have to let the heat chamber get up to temp, and how long that takes depends on how cold it is to begin with. Once the heat chamber is up to temp, you also have to get the load heated up, which requires hot air to pass through it for a while, again how long depends on its starting temperature and its moisture content (and even if you have really moist stuff, it will only take longer the first few hits, as it won't be moist after that). Don't forget to stir your load every couple of hits, no matter what technique you use.

I haven't even touched on modulating the power (pulsing the switch on and off), nor have I experimented with it. I haven't experimented with using the "puff into mouth then inhale from mouth to lungs" method of breathing (i.e., pulsing the breath on and off) instead of the direct inhale when taking a big hit (after the T1 is long preheated and producing vapor).

OK, things I don't like:

I'm not crazy about the air flow path through the load. We wouldn't be having discussions about improving the stirring situation if stirring was unnecessary. It's pretty obvious what the air flow path is, just from looking at your load after three un-stirred hits. A central tunnel from the holes on the bottom directly to the holes in the cap. I don't know what the solution is. I don't think the bottom of the bowl is thick enough to benefit from angling the holes to direct the air stream outward. Maybe if the holes in the cap were around the edge instead of in the center. I'd love to hear Thermoessence's thoughts on this.

The T1 gets pretty hot with repeated use. The delrin covering helps, but not with the power switch. Two conflicting things going on. Though the switch itself doesn't require much of a push up to make contact, it does require a "squeeze" in order to hold it up. As it gets hotter and hotter, one naturally squeezes it less and less to avoid discomfort from the heat. That makes it pretty easy to accidentally let the switch lose contact. When I'm doing multiple sequential hits, the switch gets distractingly, uncomfortably hot by the end.

The stock (short, delrin) mouthpiece gets pretty hot with repeated use. I have the longer delrin and the ptfe mouthpieces on order; maybe one of them will help with this. I've been toying with the idea of ordering one of the glass adapters, removing two of the o-rings, and using it as a mouthpiece. (Just a thought, and I want to check out the difference between the delrin and ptfe mouthpieces first anyway).

I wish there was a faster charger with more than two charging ports. I also wish for batteries that lasted for a hundred loads, but what the hell, you can't have everything. Not the end of the world.

I really wish there was a flashlight head, to make traveling though airports with the T1 a possibility.

I'll remember more stuff right after I post this.

Haywood

ps All yellow messages give me a headache. Please Pipes, if my messages are helpful to you, and you want to say "thanks", just edit your message and tone down the yellow. :)
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Wow, Haywood, you da man!

I nominate you for TV Guru for sure. The new guys should draw near and grow wise.

Thanks for the excellent summary of the care and feeding of this beast, if you haven't actually mastered it, you've got it cowed and are leading the leaders in that quest.

OF
 
OF,

Haywood

Onward Thru the Fog
Still learning, actually, but thanks for the kind words. I don't feel much like a guru though.

The T1 had a much easier learning curve than the MFLB, though maybe that's because I have more experience now, and had good help here. I was a beta tester for Magic Flight, so I had to figure out everything about the Launch Box (and the tube before it) myself. I love the Magic Flight gang, and it's a shame I really don't use the Launch Box much anymore, except occasionally with the PA. It just became to finicky about its battery connections, and I couldn't rely on it when I wanted it to work in portable mode. I think the PA just stretched out the negative loop beyond it working reliably with batteries.

The iInhale (now called ioLite) before it was a big disappointment. Ill designed, and really pure conduction, not convection. Every time you passed it to someone they would grab it by the "straw", and the whole unit would fall to the ground, leaving the person standing there looking sheepish, holding the straw and the chamber, and nothing else. Oh, and the chamber would be upside down at that point, so your whole load would fall out.

Ah the quest for the perfect portable vape. :)

I have high expectations for the T1, and I'm still delighted with it. Needs a better air path.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Still learning, actually, but thanks for the kind words. I don't feel much like a guru though.

The T1 had a much easier learning curve than the MFLB, though maybe that's because I have more experience now, and had good help here. I was a beta tester for Magic Flight, so I had to figure out everything about the Launch Box (and the tube before it) myself. I love the Magic Flight gang, and it's a shame I really don't use the Launch Box much anymore, except occasionally with the PA. It just became to finicky about its battery connections, and I couldn't rely on it when I wanted it to work in portable mode. I think the PA just stretched out the negative loop beyond it working reliably with batteries.

The iInhale (now called ioLite) before it was a big disappointment. Ill designed, and really pure conduction, not convection. Every time you passed it to someone they would grab it by the "straw", and the whole unit would fall to the ground, leaving the person standing there looking sheepish, holding the straw and the chamber, and nothing else. Oh, and the chamber would be upside down at that point, so your whole load would fall out.

Ah the quest for the perfect portable vape. :)

I have high expectations for the T1, and I'm still delighted with it. Needs a better air path.

Of course, life is about learning. Remember, the Guru doesn't have to know everything only sound like it and lead. I taught school for a while, the joke was 'all you gotta do is get a chapter ahead of the students......and stay there'.

I agree the negative ring on the LB seems to be a weak point. Between being a sloppy fit with some batteries and too tight with others and getting opened up in service it can be a hassle. One of these days I intend to try making a fixture to crimp it back down. I'm thinking a U loop made of square stock just big enough to fit the slot and crimp it in the vice (or maybe with vice grips?) to close the loop back in place?

I also agree, the stem coming out is a bummer. But I don't see the Iolite as a party vape at all. IMO it's for personal use, as is the TV for that matter. I think the owner learns 'load control' fairly quickly (at least I did). I don't agree that it's not convection. Conduction plays a big part, of course, but if you don't pull air through it first it won't hit, at least not well. It doesn't do all things well, of course, but it's still a favorite of mine. I load 1/8 gram of fine ground bud and 50 to 100 mg of bubble hash in a layer in the middle. I also use the 3 spike insert who's name escapes me. I do the bowl in two sessions usually. Two bowls to the gas fill (3 grams from empty). IMO a neat machine for what it does, worth considering.

For sure the quest is never ending. The perfect vape will be followed by guys wanting it cheaper or bigger clouds....probably long before I hear about it. As for 'better airpaths' for TV I'm not sure what you mean. Less restriction would of course call for more heater power to support the increased flow, right? That would be better from one perspective, but not from another one already under some fire.

OF
 
OF,

ThermoVape

Vaporizer Manufacturer
Manufacturer
A few comments about the Pure-Flow Filter and Moisture Conditioner...

This is an inline porous ceramic 100 micron filter. This word extremely well as a filter. Also, if moistened with 1-2 small drops of water it will humidify the vapor, which results in a smoother, cooler vapor.

Here is some of the important information about how the Pure-Flow works with the T1:

- No warm up time, none, hit the switch and begin your inhale. The restricted flow of the Pure-Flow Filter means the air spends more time passing through the heating core, as well as more 'transit' time through the load. This increases efficiency in that the chamber load reaches temperature faster with the Pure-Flow in place.

- You can combust your load if you use the normal 5-15 second warm-up.

- You must pulse the ThermoVape T1 if you are taking long inhales with your Pure-Flow Filter in place. Otherwise you may combust your load.

- The Moisture Conditioning will change the characteristics of your vapor. The vapor is cooler and smoother, this makes it harder to "feel" the vapor as you inhale it. You will have to re-learn what the vapor from the ThermoVape T1 'feels' like. You may initially feel that you are not getting good vapor while you are inhaling, only to be surprised at the cloud you exhale.

- Because the Pure-Flow changes the flow-rate, warm-ip time, vapor temperature, and vapor character (more moisture) it results in a new and different T1 experience, this new experience has a learning curve to find the new sweet spot. Also, since it is easier to reach combustion temperatures with the Pure-Flow in place we recommend this for "expert users" (of which there are many in this community) as the Pure-Flow and the T1 is a potent combination that has some power to spare.

- The Pure-Flow is completely inert and will never wear out, or need replacing. It also works incredibly well with the Revolution. With the Revolution it is pretty straight forward, it simply improves performance, cools and smooths the vapor, and will improve performance when using dry ground or powdery concentrates.

I hop this helps, sorry for not getting this reply up yesterday... it had been a long and busy week getting the new accessories ready for launch.

Cheers,

ThermoVape
 
ThermoVape,

darkrom

Great Scott!
Thanks for the clarification. Just got a surprise pay cut today...on my job without benefits as it is. Next time I can manage to save up money this sounds like something I REALLY need to get.
 
darkrom,

Haywood

Onward Thru the Fog
As for 'better airpaths' for TV I'm not sure what you mean. Less restriction would of course call for more heater power to support the increased flow, right? That would be better from one perspective, but not from another one already under some fire.

I don't find the draw too restricted, I'm talking about the path the air takes through the load in the bowl. The airflow is concentrated in a narrow tunnel running from the holes in the bottom to the holes in the top of the cap. If the air flow was somehow spread out, widening the path it takes through the load, we wouldn't have to stir every couple of hits.

Been trying different size loads. I'm finding that 25% or less doesn't work well. I'm not crazy about 90% to 100% full either (wasteful, too many hits that have a grungy taste, even though they "work"). 50% to 75% full seems to work out best for me, maybe due to the technique I use.

Speaking of technique, I'm also finding that I'm doing less puffing to get things going. Not sure why, maybe it's because I've settled on a half to three quarters full load size, and that just works better for me.
 
Haywood,

ThermoVape

Vaporizer Manufacturer
Manufacturer
I don't find the draw too restricted, I'm talking about the path the air takes through the load in the bowl. The airflow is concentrated in a narrow tunnel running from the holes in the bottom to the holes in the top of the cap. If the air flow was somehow spread out, widening the path it takes through the load, we wouldn't have to stir every couple of hits.

Been trying different size loads. I'm finding that 25% or less doesn't work well. I'm not crazy about 90% to 100% full either (wasteful, too many hits that have a grungy taste, even though they "work"). 50% to 75% full seems to work out best for me, maybe due to the technique I use.

Speaking of technique, I'm also finding that I'm doing less puffing to get things going. Not sure why, maybe it's because I've settled on a half to three quarters full load size, and that just works better for me.

I think this is right on with what most experience. A full chamber is only required if it is very loose and airy when you load the bowl. Otherwise 75% chamber seems to be treating most people really well.

The air path issue s a double edge sword. We shaped the bowl the way it is to allow for easier loading and cleaning, however the flared shape does mean the very edge of the load is not directly in the air path. A quick shake or stir seems to do the trick.

The two popular methods are simply unscrewing the cap a few turns (but not taking it off) and giving it a little tap onto your palm to shake things around. Or unscrew the cap all the way off, dump the load into the cap and them thread the T1 bad on to the cap (the cap is held so the mouthpiece is pointing at the ground, so the cap is like a cup). Those are both pretty easy and effective methods for mixing between pulls.

Cheers,

ThermoVape
 
ThermoVape,
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And the Key Ring Agitator is born. Also can be used to hold a screen if need be.
P1030565.jpg

Does lift the lid a little as the rim of the bowl presses against the spring.
P1030566.jpg

First attempt at the angle of finger but seems to do the job fairly well. Just unscrew the lid abit and or alot, whatever works for you. The finger piece is made from a chrome key ring which happened to be a very close fit and just a couple slow bends and snips. Make sure the angle is such as not to scratch the bowl.
:tup:
 

Stu

Maconheiro
Staff member
Brilliant! I love the simplicity of the design and have been trying to figure out a good way to do this.
:clap:

I wonder how long it will be before TV comes out with a version?

Well done, sir.

:peace:
 
Stu,

Haywood

Onward Thru the Fog
Thermovape said:
The air path issue s a double edge sword. We shaped the bowl the way it is to allow for easier loading and cleaning, however the flared shape does mean the very edge of the load is not directly in the air path. A quick shake or stir seems to do the trick.

It's just that I keep forgetting to stir it. :) I use both methods you describe, and they work fine. I'm really delighted with my T1.

When I look at the scorch pattern through an unstirred load after three hits, it's uniformly scorched on the bottom, indicating that hot air is coming into the load evenly. As the scorch progresses up the load (toward the cap), it narrows, and the scorch mark where the airstream exits the top of the load is half the diameter of the bottom. Coincidentally (?), that's about the same diameter as the exit holes in the cap (7mm).

So I've been wondering if the airflow path would be more even through the load if there were more holes in the cap nearer the circumference. Then the exhaust path would be wider than the cap's current 7mm central pattern. I realize this would require changing the shape of the cap to accommodate a small chamber tapering down to the diameter of the mouthpiece. I realize that you must restrict the airflow so it's not to easy to overwhelm the heater, and adding holes to the cap do the opposite of restrict.

Please don't get the wrong idea about how I feel; I think the T1 is really wonderful, I haven't stopped using it since I got it, and I'm so happy with it that I'm already recommending it to friends. I just like to complain.
 
Haywood,

ThermoVape

Vaporizer Manufacturer
Manufacturer
And the Key Ring Agitator is born. Also can be used to hold a screen if need be.
P1030565.jpg

Does lift the lid a little as the rim of the bowl presses against the spring.
P1030566.jpg

First attempt at the angle of finger but seems to do the job so fairly well. Just unscrew abit and or alot, whatever works. This finger is made from a chrome key ring which happened to be a very close fit and just a couple slow bends and snips. Make sure the angle is such as not to scratch the bowl.
:tup:




It is nice to get beat to the punch. Love the innovation, strong work!

Cheers,


It's just that I keep forgetting to stir it. :) I use both methods you describe, and they work fine. I'm really delighted with my T1.

When I look at the scorch pattern through an unstirred load after three hits, it's uniformly scorched on the bottom, indicating that hot air is coming into the load evenly. As the scorch progresses up the load (toward the cap), it narrows, and the scorch mark where the airstream exits the top of the load is half the diameter of the bottom. Coincidentally (?), that's about the same diameter as the exit holes in the cap (7mm).

So I've been wondering if the airflow path would be more even through the load if there were more holes in the cap nearer the circumference. Then the exhaust path would be wider than the cap's current 7mm central pattern. I realize this would require changing the shape of the cap to accommodate a small chamber tapering down to the diameter of the mouthpiece. I realize that you must restrict the airflow so it's not to easy to overwhelm the heater, and adding holes to the cap do the opposite of restrict.

Please don't get the wrong idea about how I feel; I think the T1 is really wonderful, I haven't stopped using it since I got it, and I'm so happy with it that I'm already recommending it to friends. I just like to complain.

We have played with, and continue to experiment with improved flow patterns. Eventually we will move towards options. That way you will be able to tune your T1 to your liking. It is the strength of a modular system, we can develop cooler cores with full flow chambers that are small and ultra efficient. Larger, hotter core/bowl combos with more capacity and power... all good stuff in testing.

I like the thinking, and you are spot on, we had bounced many of those ideas off the walls here...

We are always working at it...

Cheers,

ThermoVape
 
ThermoVape,

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Addicted DIY Enthusiast
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Brilliant! I love the simplicity of the design and have been trying to figure out a good way to do this.
:clap:

I wonder how long it will be before TV comes out with a version?

Well done, sir.

:peace:
TV's will like be teflon coated. I found this one in a key locker at work, never knew there were so many sizes. LOL This material doesn't like to bend (which makes it ideal) so bending should be done slowly as it is brittle and heats up and breaks if bent fast.

Tip of the day: Did you know a stripped down 18650 3.7 volt battery fits the T1 or REV for use with LR atomizers.....Just use without the battery sleeve.
 
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