Discontinued ThermoVape Revolution for concentrates
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green2brown
Well-Known Member
I've read through the majority of this thread and have a big question: Does the Rev truly vaporize or is it burning the concentrate the same way a skillet does where it's part vaporization and part combustion? I read that the ceramic heating element operates somewhere are 1400 degree F which certainly ensures that the 10-30% of the concentrate that isn't cannabinoid is combusting. I just want to be safe before purchasing since I have to avoid any and all amounts of combustion. And if there is no sure answer and merely only speculation, can someone who has one tell me whether the hit they exhale is white or blue or a mix of the two? Thanks for any info.
OF
Well-Known Member
It vaporizes, no question about it.
Your understanding is off, the heater is quite hot, but the ceramic (where the concentrate is) is not. It's heated (by IR mostly) to working temperature (not combustion); after that all available energy goes into making vapor (the ceramic doesn't get hotter than about 400F) until all the concentrate has been boiled off.
No combustion.
OF
Your understanding is off, the heater is quite hot, but the ceramic (where the concentrate is) is not. It's heated (by IR mostly) to working temperature (not combustion); after that all available energy goes into making vapor (the ceramic doesn't get hotter than about 400F) until all the concentrate has been boiled off.
No combustion.
OF
green2brown
Well-Known Member
Thank you! Yeah some info I got was misleading. Maybe the 1400 degrees was a typo and was supposed to be 400. That would make far more sense for vaporization haha. Thanks for the quick answer.
That figure of 1400 degrees is approximately the maximum running temperature of the element if pushed to it's limit. Maybe that's where you got your information from.?
Pipes
707vallejo707
NorCalLeftSideWe$tSide
I just got the tru flow mouthpiece let's see how it works with the dart
green2brown
Well-Known Member
couldn't delete :/
darth vaper
Member
will the revolution SV work with the alpha ultra or ultralite?
the 1400 is approximately the maximum temperature the core can withstand at its peak. The normal operating temperature is much less than that and is somewhere in the neck of 400deg.
The Revolution SV will not work with either the Ultra or Ultra lite with the batteries we ship them with. There are some batteries available for the Ultra that will let you run it at 6V, I believe they are 14250's.
Cheers,
Tim
shredhead
Specialist
Well after a couple tests I've decided the battery i got with no label and the tiny chip is most likely pooched. Sometimes it works and then sometimes it wont heat up. I dunno i had a session at work today but it just didn't seem up to snuff. I would like to hope that I'm just being paranoid, because i don't like to think that i paid 10 bucks for a shitty battery! More tests will ensue! On a side note, this vape is turning into my only vape very fast. Even around the house i crave it.
OF
Well-Known Member
Well after a couple tests I've decided the battery i got with no label and the tiny chip is most likely pooched. Sometimes it works and then sometimes it wont heat up. I dunno i had a session at work today but it just didn't seem up to snuff. I would like to hope that I'm just being paranoid, because i don't like to think that i paid 10 bucks for a shitty battery! More tests will ensue! On a side note, this vape is turning into my only vape very fast. Even around the house i crave it.
Hey, don't sweat a ten buck battery.....drop TV a note, I'm sure they'll replace it.....can't have you not enjoying your unit you know.....
OF
TonyBlaze
Member
I've been using my SV Dart daily for about 2 months now. I go through a little more than a gram a week but the last 2 weeks I noticed it takes much longer to heat up and I can't get the same big hits like I used to. I have 4 sets of batteries that I always rotate using and its the same with each set. I have cleaned the core by soaking in ISO and boiling but still it still takes much longer before I get any vapor production and when I do get vapor it's very small and I need to draw for a pretty long time just to get small hit. Any ideas what's going on. Is it just time for a new core? I also have the Evo which I know can strain the batteries but that still hits perfectly so I don't think it's the batteries. Any suggestions
jpdnkstr
Well-Known Member
I am having same issues with 1 of mine I will be curious to hear from the pros
OF
Well-Known Member
Two thoughts. First it could be overloaded. This is easy to do when you think it's going slow, the urge is to add more concentrate. This is counter productive in that you now have to heat more mass up and the extra concentrate heat sinks the energy out (to the body) faster. The only fix is to vape it out or clean it again.
Depending on the grade of the concentrate you've been using you can also be contaminated with stuff that doesn't boil out, time for a "20/20/20 burn". Use fresh batteries (I switch half way through even) when 'empty' to heat for 20 seconds straight then let it rest for 20 more before 20 more seconds of heat. Do it 20 times. I then clean it again (ISO doesn't seem to remove much, but boiling does?).
This raises the temperature higher than normal in the ceramic, something I don't recommend casually doing.
OF
Clean, clean and clean some more
I used to always do the ISO soak then boil twice until I started using an ultrasonic tank with ISO in a bottle.
BUT, we've now heard that TV recommends AGAINST using ultrasonic tanks (may cause mechanical core damage was offered), so currently I have one sitting in ISO since yesterday afternoon and I intend to return to my old "clean twice"" routine and hope I don't notice any difference.
If you search back enough, someone used "BrakeClean" (?) from an auto parts store (mixture of acetone and heptane), but I'd consider that only as a last resort.
-NDA
Hey everyone,
So we are sold out of our Revolution DART bodies, we marked those kits on the website as out of stock but we still have an option for you if you need one right now.
First go ahead and order your Revolution as a window model, then during checkout make a note to "Replace the Window Revolution with an AVA Core and Dart loading tool". We will see the note and build you a special AVA core that is wired to the same spec's as either our DART or DART-LV, the body will however show that it is an AVA.
Hope this helps anyone trying to sneak in at the end of the sale!
Cheers,
Tim
So we are sold out of our Revolution DART bodies, we marked those kits on the website as out of stock but we still have an option for you if you need one right now.
First go ahead and order your Revolution as a window model, then during checkout make a note to "Replace the Window Revolution with an AVA Core and Dart loading tool". We will see the note and build you a special AVA core that is wired to the same spec's as either our DART or DART-LV, the body will however show that it is an AVA.
Hope this helps anyone trying to sneak in at the end of the sale!
Cheers,
Tim
shredhead
Specialist
Just boiled my cartridge for the second time since i've got it. Think i got the hang of it all now. Loaded it with a first load of .08 and this thing is hittin forever! Can't stop lovin' this vape! Found an old atty with some carts and i'm gunna make some E-liquid! Checked the atomizer and it still fires! Just gotta get ahold of some VG and ill be on my way!
TonyBlaze
Member
So is the AVA body the same exact size as the dart just that it says Ava on the side
green2brown
Well-Known Member
Can anyone compare the restricted airflow of the pure-flow to that of the Solo? Or Pax? Thanks!
This is very interesting since I believe the residue that does remain after the recommended ISO./boil/burn is mostly graphite and graphite oxide. If you mean 1400F (about 777C) you're already near the point of actually burning the residue IN AIR, The actual burning points vary, but graphite is about 800C, pure diamond is about 900C and most partial oxides are in between.
Is there anyway a future product could generate and survive and higher heat, just during the "20/20" burn or an equivalent. We already have heard how you flame the ceramic, when it is disassembled, so we know that part can survive, but the current core either can't or shouldn't reach it.
Obviously, this is a request for some kind of future changes (e.g. maybe a longer core body, and I REALLY like that the DART is short), but maybe you know the residual color in the ceramic is somethings else and I''m way off.
-NDA
shredhead
Specialist
The pure flow the reeaaaaly restricted. I Would say its comparable to the solo. I'm a person who doesn't mind restriction though. Also if you put water in the pure flow it's even more restricted but you cant even feel the hits! Haven't tried smooth flow yet but I rock the UFO tip if I don't want any restriction.
OF
Well-Known Member
Fun idea, but I don't think this is likely. Tim is talking about the temperature in the hottest part of the assembly, you're talking about the temperature in the coolest. 1400 is near maximum for the heater element (and the ceramic core inside it which remains clean (a clue.....)). The ceramic we care about (where the oil and contamination are) is indirectly heated from this (it's going to be colder) and more important is also in contact with the metal body (which will never get anywhere near that hot and survive).
Thermodynamics rears it's ugly head again. Remember, the very ceramic you hope to heat is also a good insulator of heat, if the outside (where the problem is) is 1400, the inside has to be way hotter.
Flaming it when it's loose and you can put a torch directly on it is, of course, another issue.
OF
I was only asking about the core/heater, so far...
Actually after cleaning my DART (no ultrasonic - takes longer, but works great), I was thinking along more radical (pun visible later
) methods. My first ideas centered on just cleaning: I had thought about and discarded most solvents - graphite basically only dissolves in molten metal. I had eliminated cleaning with mild oxidizer and either acid or base because the nickel plating will form the (fairly) toxic salts nickel acetate or carbonate (used to electoplate Nickel - TV does NOT do this AFAIK).Then I began to think about what existing technologies TV has already demonstrated comptetence with. The "Apex" version of the Ultralite is available with a "RES". If I make the leap that the material used is substantially the same, I begin to wonder: What if the plates were replaced by an 8 or 9mm cylinder (ala the Ultralite RES) with the heater core _surrounding_ rather than beneath? The body material might need to change from brass and/or an insulating cover (e.g. the Evo's sleeve), but this is what I was thinking of (as I enjoyed a "dirty" but tasty load in my freshly cleaned DART last night). Of course since the surface are of such a cylinder is much greater than that of the existing plates. more power would be needed (i.e. even more "battery abuse"). but in turn, at the same temperature, larger quantities of volatiles oils would be vaporized (i.e. "bigger clouds", but still that wonderful taste from TV's ceramic at low temperature).
Just some semi-random ideas.
-NDA
aj0125
Well-Known Member
So I just got my DART in the mail today(couldn't resist: window for bubble, dart for oil and wax) and I had a question and observation. First off the floor of the cart has way more space for material than the window rev, but I noticed on mine the ceramic piece is much smaller than the hole. The ceramic looks like a small square piece of ceramic in a big circular hole, there are gaps on all sides of the square ceramic piece and the wax does not want to melt for quite some time in those gap areas, while the rest has vaped off quite quickly. Do you guys think there is something wrong with the core? Is the ceramic supposed to be so small(my window rev ceramic moves around a little, i know that is normal, but the window rev ceramic is large enough to cover the floor as compared to my dart ceramic is way too small) is this normal?
I hope this makes sense...
I hope this makes sense...