green2brown
Well-Known Member
Smoking is to vaporizing as dabbing is to Cera. I get it now.
Discontinued Thermovape Cera
- Thread starter SameOldTim
- Start date
tavosvo
Active Member
Shit! Same sort of thing just happened to me today. Dropped 2 feet onto bottom. Switch core was a little loose. Now it doesn't fire. Foil works but sucks. i gotta contact TET as well..
On a positive note, I have been killing it with my LL and pinnacle water tool. Great tasting consistent vapor. Learned that it is fairly easy to combust on a second bowl when shits hot. Starting to get a feel of when to pulse the button..which i can't quite do now -bumming.
OF
Well-Known Member
Good call, IMO, an easy test for marginal length springs (which seems to happen, there's a lot of variation in length of batteries).
When stuff like this happens I also think the 'wad of foil instead of a tail cap' is a good test since it identifies switch issues (and also gets you going until the replacement arrives).
Bummer. I wonder if the battery is using the epoxy 'plug' as a punch to hammer the switch body from behind when it hits? Perhaps something like a thrust washer can be added to transfer that load to the threaded body instead????
Next time I 'wonder over to the shop' I think I'll look at the pieces a bit.....if I remember of course.
Otherwise, here again, the wad of foil test should isolate the problem and keep you up until it can be repaired?
Good luck.
OF
green2brown
Well-Known Member
I have to say, the Cera is impressive. The look and feel of it are QUALITY. I've loaded it up now with as little as .02 and gotten great results. The hits are smooth and easy, the taste and high are pure and clean. I couldn't be more pleased with it. Saying goodbye to my Ti nail now.
Hey jepjep13,
These are what you want. I've been using these exact batts with my CERA EO cart on my TV Ultra PS (and with an adapter that OF was kind enough to rig up for me - Thanks again OF!!).
http://www.lighthound.com/AW-IMR-14500-LiMN-Rechargeable-Lithium-Battery_p_3644.html
It's nice having an extra PS to power my EO cart - allows me to 'top off' directly after a CERA LL session without having to change carts. So spoiled.....
Best of luck,
NN
Edit #1 BTW jepjep13, is the 'jep' a phonetic spelling of a word in the Thai language?
Edit #2 Mailman just delivered my new MP from nothingtoseehere. Well packed and welcome!! (Ha). Off to the laboratory for 'testing'. I'll report my findings.
Edit #3 WHOA!!!- Thank you NTSH!!! Initial impression is that it works quite well. Word of warning: as NTSH has said, the o-rings are very tight and should be installed carefully (unfortunately one of the 2 smaller o-rings snapped on me during installation). The ceramic screen rattles around a slight bit (could be just mine) - may need to try a high temp o-ring 'around' the ceramic screen to hold it in place. Back to the lab.
Glad you like it so far!
The larger O-ring goes here:
With that in place the screen shouldn't rattle around at all. It's a bit tricky to get it positioned correctly the first time but once you do it'll stay there forever.
I'll mail you a few O-rings.
Sonics420
Well-Known Member
My Cera is messed up again, have to apply pressure to one side of the cart to get it working, I still hit it with NTSH mouthpiece and it worked very well for oil[open air flow].
My o rings broke also when I put the mouth piece on it took a little work and ripped the o ring .
My o rings broke also when I put the mouth piece on it took a little work and ripped the o ring .
ive been following this thread for about a month or so (right around when i had to send my cera in for repairs)
every time i felt compelled to ask a question it was already asked and answered (most often by OF, big surprise). was lucky enough to hit up nothing to see here and get my name in the pot for the mouthpiece mod. just received it in the mail today. so much better
every time i felt compelled to ask a question it was already asked and answered (most often by OF, big surprise). was lucky enough to hit up nothing to see here and get my name in the pot for the mouthpiece mod. just received it in the mail today. so much better
PhotoRider
Diagnosed with level 11 G.A.S.
So - question and request for advice:
Is the TI version worth it over the SS? The cost is 2X and the cart is only $100 more. The TI is also used in the base? I am uncler about what the TI option give outsiode the obvious cart upgrade.
Is the TI version worth it over the SS? The cost is 2X and the cart is only $100 more. The TI is also used in the base? I am uncler about what the TI option give outsiode the obvious cart upgrade.
TI is lighter and stronger. It will also resist corrosion better than SS. And it sounds way more bad ass
OF
Well-Known Member
Yes, the metal parts are Ti, not SS. The switch body is still stainless AFAIK since it's the same switch, but the end cap body it screws into, the ring the cap screws into and the 'screwplate' the cart screws into are all Ti.
It's generally not considered smart to 'mix metals' in such pieces, especially when there's heat cycles like in the cart/screwplate connection. So I guess the advice is to get the Ti body only if you're going to run Ti parts and the other way about.
Ti does seem to scar and ding more than the SS version, so if you're clumsy and cosmetic oriented I'd say SS is for you.
I guess you've got to decide if it's worth it to you. I know guys with them that are convinced it is.
You know, we hear that stronger part a lot, but AFAIK that's really 'pound for pound stronger than XXX' and it's mighty light. As a material I think SS wins the tough competition? Better to be a SS hammer than a Ti nail?
OF
toros23
Well-Known Member
I can help with this one.. The only noticeable difference is the lighter weight. They also recommend Ti if corrosion could be an issue. I posted the weight differences a while back in this thread if you are curious.
I started with a SS but switched to a Ti after I held one at the TET shop and noticed the weight difference when using EO cart. Having said that, if your budget is $500 I would actually recommend taking that extra cash and get an SS version with an LL cart and an extra EO cart because the weight difference is really not that much.
EDIT - Damn, two other replies while I was writing mine!!! You have some serious help here PhotoRider!
PhotoRider
Diagnosed with level 11 G.A.S.
yes I do. Thanks people. I bought a SS version last night and was having second thoughts. I use a solo for vape so the EO is my interest.
toros23
Well-Known Member
You also have some serious hardware! I saw some of your other posts in one of the other threads.. Very serious, indeed!
I think you are gonna love the Cera EO carts.. They perform amazingly well..
Hey Guys here is a heads up for you. I had my switch fry in the first 2 week. TET promptly replaced it no problems. When I went to put the new switch in I noticed the fried switch had plumbers tape wrapped around it and it looked melted and discolored. The new switch didn't have any tape around it so I opted not to put any on there. I feel like the plumbers trap was the reason the switch fried. No real scientific evidence but just the look of it didn't sit well with me. I already let TET know and I thought you guys should know as well.
PhotoRider
Diagnosed with level 11 G.A.S.
plumber's tape. What was that for? interesting.
OF
Well-Known Member
I wouldn't worry about it, that tape is there to provide a seal between the fiber tube and the switch body to keep the epoxy from running out. The contacts are inside the switch.
The switch assembly fails for one of three reasons generally. The spring gets messed up (sometimes by overloads collapsing it, a safety feature), the switch contacts fail in service (sometimes with heating, sometimes not, sometimes even 'welding on') or the ground connection to the switch body fails (most often intermittent with heat). My bet is your contacts bought it, the tape had nothing to do with it being on the outside, perhaps hidden, perhaps not. My slip shows (I can see the tape too).
OF
Edit: I also think they messed with some rubber cement sealant at one point, but IIRC the tape wrap around the switch body before jamming the tube down on it was faster and easier?
I do know that two of the end cap bodies I got from them to experiment with came with glued in switches.....seems that seal isn't 100%.....I had to torch assembly and punch the switch body out hot. Good epoxy.
OF
hektik8625
Well-Known Member
got my mouthpiece today NTSH thanks. It was a good attempt... but hey the thing is super loose falls right off, when i use the o rings supplied the thing wont go on at all.... bummed
OF
Well-Known Member
I'd try shimming it. Normally I'd go with dental floss or something like that but that's out here due to temperature I'd think. How about a thin strip of aluminum foil? A layer or two under the ring? My guess is it's pretty close.
Perhaps using a bit of water to help hold the foil in place until the ring gets on? The water will easily boil off when you heat it up the first time......
OF
Put a spec of olive oil on the supplied O-rings. Rub it in. Or rub the O-rings a little bit with your fingers (a little bit of natural skin oil will rub off). Once you get it on and loosen up the O-rings you won't have any problems. Mine fits great now but yeah the first few times it was a little tight. I could have gone for a little looser fit but the custom MP is fairly heavy and I didn't want it falling off or anything.
OF
Well-Known Member
Beats me, I can't see it from here....
The tape is PTFE, good to 500F or so, other stuff melts way sooner (like the epoxy and switch body). When I burned the switches out, the tape came out just fine....everything else burned up, including the buttons popping out of the switches...
No 'weird tape hits' possible, really, even if the screwplate wasn't blocking the battery section off (which it is). Not to worry, you're not poisoned.....I hope.
OF