Discontinued Thermovape Cera

jdee

Well-Known Member
TheRobbo, you're saying that loose screws causing increased airflow through the ll cart drops the temperature relative to using the same rate of inhalation with tightened screws, which results in better vaporization?
gonna have to try that :science:

Tim mentioned removing a screw in the eo core, for better airflow.

What is the official size of those screws, I believe OF said 0.035mm ? If the tightening/loosening of the screws is an essential part of the functioning of the unit it seems like a nice gesture to include it in the package.

Either way I love the cera, for it's ability to deliver dense flavorful vapor at a moments notice, for repeated sessions, without needing to reload or recharge. Something I have always wanted to do, but until now have not been able to. It was worth it for me, definitely.
 
jdee,

harmudge

Active Member
If any of you are having trouble making visible vapour make sure the set screws are in properly. Although also make sure you dont over tighten.

Great news TheRobbo, glad your now getting a great vape from the LL cart.

The screw problem has been raised a couple of times from what I've read, I think an extra check on those needs doing before shipping.
 

ogcook

Well-Known Member
Great news TheRobbo, glad your now getting a great vape from the LL cart.

The screw problem has been raised a couple of times from what I've read, I think an extra check on those needs doing before shipping.
From what I remember TET was talking about switching to set screws so they shouldn't come loose and any early orders with the normal ones can be shipped back and swapped.
 
TET, why are so many people having issues with their screws? Were they not checked before you sent them out? If the screws are meant to be adjusted based on people's air flow preferences, why not include the screwdriver to adjust them in the purchase?

Also, if I choose to buy a Cera LL down the road and I want to get a latching switch, will it cost more than the default momentary switch or would it just be an option that people can choose for no extra cost?
 

Bluntcrush

Director of Vapor Research Labs™
Make no mistake, mine is working with the screws (on both carts) as they came, but it might still be interesting to adjust the "play" from time to time...

If variable air flow (by taste) is possible without harming the cart. It could be great! It is after all an open design.


Laws yes...
 

OF

Well-Known Member
If any of you are having trouble making visible vapour make sure the set screws are in properly. Although also make sure you dont over tighten.

I believe that you could quite easily medicate to a satifactory level with any kind of hit you want, a succession of short 5/10 second hits would more than easily get her up to temp just as well as one or two 20/above second one.

Getting good vapor is not dependent on the setscrews in any way past keeping the bowl on. It should not change performance much at all, and if it does not having one should improve, not weaken it in vapor terms.

First off, glad you found success with your first vape! Many guys struggle a lot, some sadly give up.

However, I cannot agree with the above advice. Loose screw(s) will not slow production in any way. In fact, since no connection is made with them, they have zero effect electrically and a very very minor role in blocking air flow so it actually pulls a bit easier without them. In a LL cart, I'll defy anyone to tell the difference against the restrictions in the inlets and load.

My guess it the screw adventure ran headlong into the 'getting to know each other' phase?

However it happened, you've broken the code, congratulations and welcome to the fun.

OF or robbo do you remember what size the little baby allen wrench was you used for the cart screws? I think i want to get one just in case.

It's actually .035 inches, Tim lied about .0035. He lies a lot in case you haven't noticed......

Hopefully screws coming out has been fixed with extra care at assembly and a gauge now being used to check the screws. Cement is also being looked into.

It's no big deal to loose one, but a second one could be a big problem in that if the screws left cant in the bowl they're likely to crack the ceramic at the skirt. Remember the bowl 'floats' on the four screws which are acting as pins.

Not to mention messing with them (taking them out) could constitute voiding the warranty.
Can i just buy the oil cart and use it with my ego 3.7 volt battery? is there any reason this wont work?

Two reasons, you need a thread adapter you don't have (I built mine) and none of the Ego supplies I have is up to the power needed.

Aside from that.....

TheRobbo, you're saying that loose screws causing increased airflow through the ll cart drops the temperature relative to using the same rate of inhalation with tightened screws, which results in better vaporization?
gonna have to try that :science:

Tim mentioned removing a screw in the eo core, for better airflow.

You might want to read it again. The OP said he though his screws being loose screwed up the cart. It can't make it worse and better at the same time now can it? IMO the effect on oil carts is trivial (remember, I did this drill too when a screw fell out of the prototype I have (the final design has the holes tapped differently to secure the screws (if they're properly screwed in at assembly.....).

Yes, I tried this stuff, no I didn't find any 'secret improvement' or TV would be incorporating it.

And again, you might want to go read the warranty? Not that I think TV would deny you just because you violated the agreement, but it's there for a reason? And there are four screws there for good reasons.

From what I remember TET was talking about switching to set screws so they shouldn't come loose and any early orders with the normal ones can be shipped back and swapped.

Yes!!! Exactly! They know the four screws serve a use and should remain there. Remember, originally they planned on anti tamper screws, but none were available in the tiny size needed. They clearly never intended the design to feature user adjusted screws. If they did, they'd have included instructions, the necessary tool and changed the warranty terms to allow it?

The change is not to the screw, but to the hole. It's no longer tapped to the bottom which is what lead to some being loose. Assemblers weren't tightening them enough to engage the thread lock part. They've been corrected (I'm told) and a gauge pin is now used to check each screw. Loose ones should be no longer shipped. And as I said, there's been some talk of cement suitable to the temperature, solvent and other conditions is being investigated as well.

The design works well. IMO folks should have some confidence that such obvious ideas were researched?

OF
 

woodymax33

New Member
I don't think 280 mAh is going to cut it. You'll get a few minutes maybe, but it's most likely not up to the current needed. The Ego should work on 'bypass' mode (max Voltage), mine does, although direct supplies like the TV ones will do better usually. This is tough duty.

OF

Ok. So the Ego will work on max Voltage mode? If it doesn't, what kind of issues will it likely have? Battery life, heating speed/power? I'm now seeing it would've been a lot simpler to order the kit w/ TV battery, like you say. Anywhere to find the batteries solo? On the Thermoessence webshop all it says they have are T1 AC power supply packs, would these 6V batteries work with the Rev-LV? Or should I stick w/ joyetech? (cuz the T1 AC batteries are like 100$. Might as well get a Cera).
 
woodymax33,

woodymax33

New Member
Good news then. I suggest you exchange it for the one you wanted (the LV). Also, keep up the conversation with OF about the best handle/battery for your needs. He is much better versed in the different options, and what will work, than I am. As he said, "This is tough duty."


Gotcha. Will do. Thanks for your help no doubt
 
woodymax33,

Cheerful Dub

Spaced Station
I am currently in love with the EO cart, I feel as though it is exactly what I was expecting, in terms of its performance relative to the DART in all aspects. Unfortunately, I don't know if it's my technique but I cannot get the LQ to perform half as good as the AVA.

It just doesn't dump vapor the same way the AVA does, I am thinking of recording it with a microphone just for comparisons sake, but imagine if the AVA is 100% volume the LQ is about 30%, even after "waiting". To generate a decent amount of vapor I am required to "milk" it like the EO cart with little back and forth short puffs, and not-surprisingly this produces a highly peppery/baked taste that is generally only present when the glycerin load gets very low and the ceramic is drying, as per the instructions on each product line. It is still only about half the vapor production (to be generous) of a significantly less technique-intensive drag off the AVA, and that's really the rub for me.

Relative to the sounds each cart generates the AVA roars instantly, whereas the LQ creeps up in volume over a 6-8 second period and is still not even half as loud by the time you take a hit. I am also aware that if you over-fill the AVA to the point of clogging the ceramic it will produce a similar baked taste, so I have eliminated load as an issue in my mind at this point.

If I were not already in the process of transitioning away from nicotine consumption, or I was planning on using it as much as my AVA and in the same capacity, I would not be very excited about the LQ core. It certainly "works" so I don't have to carry both units on the go, but man, not even close.

For what it's worth, I am using the exact same juice across each model and cart system, InnoVapor 30mg.

As far as I know Bluntcrush may be able to provide some perspective on this as I seem to recall he mentioned receiving an LQ core that he could compare to his old AVA & RES systems.

Also a fun albeit short lived way to cool your vapor is to freeze the ceramic mouthpiece. I left the whole thing in my car for a few hours while in the gym and after it warmed up I noticed how smooth the vapor was for the first few hits and could only attribute it to the very cold ceramic. Just a thought, maybe throw it in your freezer between sessions? :science:
 

7upstar

Member
However, I cannot agree with the above advice. Loose screw(s) will not slow production in any way. In fact, since no connection is made with them, they have zero effect electrically and a very very minor role in blocking air flow so it actually pulls a bit easier without them. In a LL cart, I'll defy anyone to tell the difference against the restrictions in the inlets and load.
My guess it the screw adventure ran

there are also only 4 holes on the bottom instead of 6. The bottom holes aren't actually for airflow, they are for set screws that secure the two pieces together.
 
7upstar,

OF

Well-Known Member
Ok. So the Ego will work on max Voltage mode? If it doesn't, what kind of issues will it likely have? Battery life, heating speed/power? I'm now seeing it would've been a lot simpler to order the kit w/ TV battery, like you say. Anywhere to find the batteries solo? On the Thermoessence webshop all it says they have are T1 AC power supply packs, would these 6V batteries work with the Rev-LV? Or should I stick w/ joyetech? (cuz the T1 AC batteries are like 100$. Might as well get a Cera).

Sorta. It works better then than at the reduced voltages. Understand that while it can reach that voltage for the first bit of it's life with extremely light loads, I'll never ever come close with a Revolution/DART sucking up the juice. For a whole host of reasons power is lost all along the way heating stuff that shouldn't be. Like the battery (where cheap doesn't cut it, you want the best possible battery, currently AW brand IMRs) and the control (being electronic, it heats too, robbing power and killing the electronics in the bargain). It will give substandard heat and will need to be watched for overheating between it's cutting out every 8 seconds because the maker knows this sort of duty will kill his product. It will work, how well and for how long you can find out. The other one you have doesn't stand a real chance, IMO, you'll kill it in no time. I don't use my 330 mAh one with 2.4 Omicron carts (half the load, shorter hits as well) because it's too hard on it.

If you can live with AC power, that's best probably, but needs SV not LV.

And yes, I think Cera is a better call in the long run, but you have to decide what you want and can afford.

Good luck.

I am currently in love with the EO cart, I feel as though it is exactly what I was expecting, in terms of its performance relative to the DART in all aspects. Unfortunately, I don't know if it's my technique but I cannot get the LQ to perform half as good as the AVA.

Relative to the sounds each cart generates the AVA roars instantly, whereas the LQ creeps up in volume over a 6-8 second period and is still not even half as loud by the time you take a hit.

I fully agree with this. DART is much faster, which makes a lot of sense when you stop to think about it. Both the heaters are the same size power wise (very close at any rate) but the total load in DART is a small fraction of the size so it stands to reason it'll heat faster. It also heats differently, some of the reservoir is touching the element, some quite far away. This too lets it come up very fast even if in a small part of a much smaller mass. Downsides include more often fills and tendency to burn the residual oil up close trying to get enough hot enough at the back as the charge goes down.

Cera takes more time to get material hot enough, but when it does it has a huge bunch vaping all at once......as the movies show. But there's a half minute or so warm up to get there.

Life is full of compromises it seems. If guys really like DART performance I don't see any reason TV can't make you one in Cera body......

(a couple of similar, but unrelated quotes??)

Sorry, you lost me here.....

Those two quotes are about different screws, right? Mine is about the four on the cart that retain the heater and connector, Tim is talking bout the four smaller holes (of 6) in the body that retain the socket plate the cart screws into.

OF
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Anybody have leak/clog problems with the EO core yet?

Sure, it's easy, just overload it. Half a gram from empty should be fine, but there's a limit to what can be absorbed. Otherwise you have to pay attention to gravity and stuff. Laying it on it's side, even slightly 'nose down' seems to help once you've put too much in, but the best plan is to not get there in the first place.

Revolutions/DART has a similar state but usually guys back off when the action starts getting slow and the taste shifts because of it.

OF
 
OF,

2clicker

Observer
hey mods... is there any way to have "sub-threads" in this thread? one for each core?

just a thought
 
2clicker,

Medical Mark

Well-Known Member
Hey OF why don they just use high temp cement like they use on cylinders in engines or they type for model helicopters that you fly I'm building a helicopter and I have to use high temp glue so all the jarring of the helicopter doesn't loosen the screws and bolts.
Maybe that's a solution?
 
Medical Mark,
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pakalolo

Toolbag v1.1 (candidate)
Staff member
hey mods... is there any way to have "sub-threads" in this thread? one for each core?

just a thought

No there isn't, they'd have to be separate threads. I've just been catching up here and I feel your pain. LL people are mostly not EO people and don't want to wade through the technical discussion of the EO core. There's even a long exchange about old generation TET devices that I wanted to extract and boot into the right thread, but I came across it so late that it's impossible to extract without butchery. Par for the course for Cera posters, though.
 

7upstar

Member
No there isn't, they'd have to be separate threads. I've just been catching up here and I feel your pain. LL people are mostly not EO people and don't want to wade through the technical discussion of the EO core. There's even a long exchange about old generation TET devices that I wanted to extract and boot into the right thread, but I came across it so late that it's impossible to extract without butchery. Par for the course for Cera posters, though.
Welcome to the party :cheers:
 
7upstar,
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Romus

New Member
Where are all the customer review already? I am getting skeptical...
The none response is good in my opinion. If there were critical problems and errors for the owners who call FC home you can bet there would be a lot of talk. Personally I don't like posting reviews or taking videos and this might be the case for the select few who have gotten a hold of one. There will be more with time I'm sure.
 

Dreamerr

Always in a state of confusion and silliness♀
Still Jam he fixed it...maybe I can pm you the link let me try. First I have to go back an find it.

Jam he must have put it back to pvt. PM him and tell him to change it so you an see it then change it back if he doesn't want others in the future to see it. He wasn't sure on the settings the first day.
 
Dreamerr,

whyanon

Well-Known Member
I'm a recent signup and have been tracking the cera threads since november in hopes of finally finding a does-it-all tool, and so far the cera looks promising. Big thanks to all the members here who provided invaluable info here (especially OF, noah and countless others).

Based on all the reviews/videos so far, my tally(IMO) is:

LL - check.
EO - check.
EL - undecided.

imagine if the AVA is 100% volume the LQ is about 30%, even after "waiting"

Cheerful dub: thanks for the first EL review, albeit not exactly what i wanted to hear. I assume the 'waiting' would be the break-in period? I fi remember correctly, AVA required about avg 2 days before it really gets going. How long has yours been? Can you comment on the vapour production? Any leakage? Capacity?

Still very little info provided on the EL(TET included), although understandibly so. Would love to hear from others who have received theirs.
 
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