AirDru
Well-Known Member
I think I would want the latching switch with the Cera oil cart as well as the LL cart. We'll have to wait and see what the options are when it becomes available.
i agree 100%. latching switch for all cores FTW.
I think I would want the latching switch with the Cera oil cart as well as the LL cart. We'll have to wait and see what the options are when it becomes available.
i agree 100%. latching switch for all cores FTW.
I need a fainting emoticon...OF that is a lot of pics lately wow and thanks. Whether I understand them or not the fact that you are putting them up I like to look.
However when I go to town on a session solo I can see myself fully blasted and the cart still on burning up the oil. I need both, good no more thinking, good thing since it was giving me a head ache.
Glad to hear. Since I have this wonderful VV (Variable Voltage) box mod (a little box the size of three AA cells next to each other) that's currently set to put out from 3.0v to 6.0v at up to 6 Amps, and doesn't care what the resistance of the core is, I'm looking forward to getting my first Cera Oil core. I was thinking of asking Tim to wind me one that's 1.4Ω, so it will work on almost any of the VV/VW mods, but that won't be necessary for the one I am currently using (with GREAT success with my DARTs, running at 4.00v, which is 10 watts with my 1.6Ω DART core). Hopefully TET will be making a 510 adapter sooner rather than later, though I am working up on myNeedless to say, it [the Cera Oil core] works GREAT due to the Cera's abilities. The obvious next question is 'swell, but will it work on other makers batteries?'. That answer isn't so easy. Of the ones I have, Persei and V2 are the only ones up to the power needs. The additional drops in them (over the TV supplies) lessens their performance relative to Cera or the TV supplies, but they do work. I'm not sure how they'd deal with long term heat build up, though, IIRC there have been issues there in the past.
I had Tim wind me a 'coldest possible' core (lowest power demand) to lessen this problem. That compromise seems to be the best for this use. I still get great volume with Ultra supplies and good performance (at least for a while) from Persei. V2, configured 'right' (low drop top, running the AW IMR 14500), is worth further testing.
Even this custom core is rejected by Iris as a shorted cart, it won't even try to make it work. Likewise other VV e-cigs either come up lame or balk all together.
Getting everything to fit 'just right' (D9 supplies have no compliance in the connectors like TV ones do, they count on the cart for that) is a problem but not with Ultras (so far).
The good news is I think this will be 'just the ticket' for owners who have T1s or the 17670 or 14500 based Ultras who want a truly serious update......
OF
Arthritis is a sad thing ... Was told I would never be able to work a T1. Mastered it in 2 days. The pain was bad, but the T1 soothed my soul.... and fingers.
Hi Tim! You might want to change two things in the instructions pdf you linked to. One is a silly typo, in the caption for the top right picture, where you say "Depressn and hold switch..." you probably want to remove the trailing "n" in Depress....For everyone receiving your Cera's that may not have had the printed instructions here is a link to the PDF. This should help a lot when you first get it.
Cheers,
Tim
To prevent the cart from still being on and using up oil in your pocket you put in the little safety pin (into the side of the device) which prevents the latching switch from turning the device on. The safety pin has a little attachment that looks like it will fit on a key chain or around a finger. Just keep it around your finger during the session and then put it back into the Cera when done and then back in the pocket.
I was thinking of asking Tim to wind me one that's 1.4Ω,
I am planning on getting an Oil and a Leaf Cera core though, (and I even have one of those very rare TET glass mouthpieces that were made for the T1 core sitting here waiting to go on the Cera core).
As far as your last "or the 17670 or 14500 based Ultras" comment, did you mean a T1 equipped 17670? If not, what's an Ultra that takes a 17670? Can I have one?
Let me clarify, me sitting on the sofa, I am on gram two of oil and consciousness is only an option, this is when I want a bottom switch that needs to be held on ( the side switch went the way of the dodo a long time ago and was replaced with a functional safety switch) other wise I will be a million light years away and no amount of vapor billowing from my hand is going to bring me back.
Like Haywood, I would likely not be intrested in the handle, but in that core. OF, you have both the dart and cera ceo. How would you describe the flavor and end of flavor on a fresh dab from of the revolution direct aplication reloading tool vs. the cera oil core?
My only cripe with the cera oil is the width of the thing. Does the outside get as hot as the outside of the nickle plated brass of the revolution? I guess it would depend on what type of metal, titanium or stainless steel. I'm assuimg ease of clean is faster in the cera core, what type of cleans do you like to perform?
For cleaning of Revolution/DART I'm a big fan of boiling first. Most of the concentrate comes out then (ends up as a 'bathtub ring' in the pan) leaving less for the ISO to deal with. I often boil it again then (to be sure the ISO is gone). Then I usually let it air dry, although a time or two I've done 20/20/20 burns but usually not.
OF
I love the idea of clean vape delivery systems. I could applaud thermovape once every day for the rest of my life for the relief and peace of mind the revolution dart offers me. Plus the little dabber on the end is amazingly simple and perfect. Will the cera oil core really be able to fit into my lineup of 3 darts in rotation and one for a back up? Like Haywood, I would likely not be intrested in the handle, but in that core. OF, you have both the dart and cera ceo. How would you describe the flavor and end of flavor on a fresh dab from of the revolution direct aplication reloading tool vs. the cera oil core? Minium fill on my dart seems to be just a few bb's. And it takes forever for the ceramic to dry up again. My only cripe with the cera oil is the width of the thing. Does the outside get as hot as the outside of the nickle plated brass of the revolution? I guess it would depend on what type of metal, titanium or stainless steel. I'm assuimg ease of clean is faster in the cera core, what type of cleans do you like to perform? Thank you for your time, Very appreciated all the info you always turn out for everyone. Very helpful mate!
I was asking about the cleaning of the cera ceo. After a batch of oil say would you just torch it? Or would you iso and boil etc? I was just curious if you have begun any kind of cleaning regiment for that cera ceo of yours.
You wont notice any taste from your core itself, any and all taste in your vapor is produced by the concentrate you are using. You must consider what exactly is happening in the heater surface to understand where any "tastes" are coming from.
All I needed to hearI just haven't found a need to clean it, really. Not yet.
OF
My little Beast box will deal with 1.2Ω (and less) just fine, but the heat and mass of the Cera oil core (even the Ti version which is what I'm planning on getting) is more than I want to subject the little plastic box to. It holds up to the DART heat, but it still worries me. The 20W custom wood box mod I'm having made should physically support a hot Cera core (even the SS version), and will work down to 1.2Ω. Still, I may have toActually my request was for 1.5 Ohms for much those same reasons. I turns out to not be possible in it's current configuration, the highest he could take it reads 1.2 Ohms. For now that's all the further it can go with the current coil and lead sizes, you just can't get any more wire into the heater area without shorts. Someday that may change, but a lot of development has to happen again (starting with a new base assembly for the different size wire).
Thanks for the tip about needing a different O-Ring. I have a dozen drip tips, but if you remember, the glass mouthpiece extends down quite a bit (so as to cover the T1 bowl), and suspended on the Cera's O-Rings, might act as a natural heat shield from the Cera oil core. And not get too hot right at the mouthpiece end. I burn myself more than I would like on my exposed DART core, even though I know better. With the leaf core, as you suspect, it would need a screen. I wonder if there's room to put the Cera LL UFO/Mouthpiece on top of the LL core, but then use the glass mouthpiece instead of the standard Cera ceramic top. I hate the taste of metal screens. I'll have to dig the glass mouthpiece out and see how long the covers-the-bowl part is.Yes, the glass top (which I think they plan to again offer someday??) works well but needs a different o-ring to fit right. For oil I really like the drip tips, but for herb that's not an option of course. I haven't tried it with herb actually, but suspect a screen will be in order, either laid on top of the load or in the MP?
I think I understand It's the same base I have with my T1 rig, without the delrin sleeve. In which case, I don't need one.No, T1s are included in my listing first, not only the LV ones but the SV ones (as were originally shipped long ago) with the battery (and charger) change. However, Ultras in the same battery tube size, minus the plastic insulator sleeves were already being use by TV for their SV e-cig power users as their only SV supply. You could, of course also use the 17670 for LV. But it comes with a normal (smooth) adapter top and is what shipped with Revolution when it came out. Likewise, the smaller two (14500 and 14440 based one) also came over to the MMJ side of it all? I haven't tried the little guy yet, it might actually work for a bit, it does drive DARTs......
Anyway, guys with TV stuff driving T1s, Revolution/DART and Evolution can look forward to effectively using at least all but maybe the little Ultra with Cera oil cores.
OF
My little Beast box will deal with 1.2Ω (and less) just fine, but the heat and mass of the Cera oil core (even the Ti version which is what I'm planning on getting) is more than I want to subject the little plastic box to. It holds up to the DART heat, but it still worries me. The 20W custom wood box mod I'm having made should physically support a hot Cera core (even the SS version), and will work down to 1.2Ω. Still, I may have tobeg and plead and cry and whinenicely ask Tim if he can manage a 1.3Ω core if he really, really tries; a little headroom (bottomroom?) for the DNA20 controller in the wood box would be nice (so it doesn't fault out when the core's too cold and its resistance decreases slightly; or visa-versa if the wire is weird). If the Cera Oil core turns out to be as spectacular as all indications are showing, but it can't be wound to higher than 1.1-1.2Ω, I'll just have to come up with a nicer version of my little dual 14500 VV "Beast", something that takes an 18650 or 26500, maybe in metal, uses the same nice 96% efficient switching regulator that works below 1Ω and can put out 3-6V up to 10A... and then I have to con a proper Cera connector out of Tim, hmm, getting ahead of myself...
Thanks for the tip about needing a different O-Ring. I have a dozen drip tips, but if you remember, the glass mouthpiece extends down quite a bit (so as to cover the T1 bowl), and suspended on the Cera's O-Rings, might act as a natural heat shield from the Cera oil core. And not get too hot right at the mouthpiece end. I burn myself more than I would like on my exposed DART core, even though I know better. With the leaf core, as you suspect, it would need a screen. I wonder if there's room to put the Cera LL UFO/Mouthpiece on top of the LL core, but then use the glass mouthpiece instead of the standard Cera ceramic top. I hate the taste of metal screens. I'll have to dig the glass mouthpiece out and see how long the covers-the-bowl part is.
I think I understand It's the same base I have with my T1 rig, without the delrin sleeve. In which case, I don't need one.
Looking forward to it. Did Tim give you any feeling for when TET might be able to take a breath and actually make some adapters for us 510 users?
Hey Haywood,
You seem quite knowledgable and I'm lost in a dark wood in all this modular jargon! I recently purchased a thermovape Rev-LV but was shipped a Rev-SV. Should I keep the SV or exchange it for an LV?
Looking forward to it. Did Tim give you any feeling for when TET might be able to take a breath and actually make some adapters for us 510 users?
Remember the rule: "Load small and often". Get more than about .25 grams total in there and if floods. Less than that can make it slow to get going and less smooth on the draw. I load .05 or a bit more (a BB size bit) and expect 8 or 10 solid hits from it, more if I'm not pushing for lots
First off, Howdy, welcome to the fun. Good choice, TV stuff is pretty sweet. Many of us are fond of the DART specifically. I'm sure you'll come to like it too.
My advice is to send it to TV and have it rebuilt for LV. $15, cheaper than converting your rig to LV and you'll get longer battery life in the deal. The time difference in heat up isn't really all that big, a fully charged LV will beat a 'fairly used' SV.
Remember the rule: "Load small and often". Get more than about .25 grams total in there and if floods. Less than that can make it slow to get going and less smooth on the draw. I load .05 or a bit more (a BB size bit) and expect 8 or 10 solid hits from it, more if I'm not pushing for lots.
OF