Tom Funk
Well-Known Member
If your issue with BHO is the dangers involved with making it, the Liquidizer might be of interest to you.
Cheers
TF
Discontinued Thermovape Cera
- Thread starter SameOldTim
- Start date
If your issue with BHO is the dangers involved with making it, the Liquidizer might be of interest to you.
Cheers
TF
Unconnected
Well-Known Member
Not so much that, more just like the economies of scale with herb + risk factor of blowing all my shit up. ISO is less of a risk to just try out with a small amount and see if its worth it. I am a certified lifetime pyromaniac, and im still here with all my fingers and eyebrows so i think i can handle the volatility, i just cant make it cheap enough, i would have to make it soley out of vapeable herb and i feel like its only really economical when you can get plant material.
The best oil and largest extraction come from using all flower material. Using trim gets very little extraction and a ton of waxes that are a waste of time IMO.
Patrick Hughes
Stoneman
instead of boiling it clean has anyone tried to put the EO core into a thermostat cup with hot water for a few hours to clean it. also i boiled it and iso soaked it still has some black watery gucky hash oil, can i send it in like that or do have to clean it better.
inside the circle not the metal parts. the ceramic plate parts of the edge is with nasty hash oil lookin stuff that was just iso soaked 20 hours, then boiled for 10minutes, then 15 minutes, then iso soak again.
inside the circle not the metal parts. the ceramic plate parts of the edge is with nasty hash oil lookin stuff that was just iso soaked 20 hours, then boiled for 10minutes, then 15 minutes, then iso soak again.
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OF
Well-Known Member
I didn't know you can do that! I want some. Lots of things I'd like to get fixed.....can they make me even taller and better looking at the same time, I'd like that too I think.
Does Obamacare cover it? If so, I might have to rethink that whole mess......
I only tried briefly, the results of 'simmering' rather than boiling were poor. I figured the true boiling (production of gas inside the bulk of the liquid rather than just the surfaces) can drive the oil out of the assembly where it floats up. Simply moving it around inside does no good.
IMO boil first, don't be shy, ten minutes or more. This removes the most oil fastest, but leaves deposits on surfaces. Once the bulk is gone (and passages clear hopefully) the ISO can do the rest. I boil again to get rid of the ISO.
If you make a good faith effort at cleaning you should be fine. You can't make it sanitary enough to pass serious testing no matter what, but it should be clear to all you're not trying to ship drugs. Clean it as best you can, wrap it in foil, pack it well and send it off.....the sooner you do the sooner you're back to enjoying it full tilt.
Best wishes.
OF
so would the picture i provided above be shipable? its been boiled and most of the oil came out just left over nasty stuff in there on the top of the plate. also would it be better if i wrap it in foil, then bubble wrap, and then inside a white box that used to store a ceramic mug? and just print a shipping label from usps with tracking onto the box? any idea how long itll take to be received by them and sent back to me? most likely going to soak my core in iso 91% for another 24 hours or so before sending it back.
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OF
Well-Known Member
Hard to tell from a photo, but I don't see anything alarming. Another ISO soak can't hurt, of course. You might get some cosmetic help with a 20/20/20 burn, if often gets rid of some of the carbon buildup.
Yes, I'd wrap it in foil to keep any odor trapped, the pad that for shipment. I'd use a small box or a very strong envelope (you don't want it tearing free if it gets hung up in some package handling machine somewhere).
It's been a while since I visited the shop, but the normal routine there is to meet the trucks when they come in and sort things right away. Front office stuff gets taken up there, new parts added to the assembly/stock and return/repairs logged in and started in on in a very short time. Rebuilding EO cores has many steps, but I'd say the average turn around is 2 or 3 days?
Good luck.
OF
Yes, I'd wrap it in foil to keep any odor trapped, the pad that for shipment. I'd use a small box or a very strong envelope (you don't want it tearing free if it gets hung up in some package handling machine somewhere).
It's been a while since I visited the shop, but the normal routine there is to meet the trucks when they come in and sort things right away. Front office stuff gets taken up there, new parts added to the assembly/stock and return/repairs logged in and started in on in a very short time. Rebuilding EO cores has many steps, but I'd say the average turn around is 2 or 3 days?
Good luck.
OF
Quetzalcoatl
DEADY GUERRERO/DIRT COBAIN/GEORGE KUSH
Here's a clue someone else posted about cleaning with ISO. Grab a sandwich ziplock bag and put the core in there with the strongest ISO you can get (Safeway sells 99% in Southern California). Draw up the hottest water that your sink allows and fill the sink up with it. Let the bag float in there for some minutes. The hot water warms up the ISO which in turn will clean a bit better since it's warmer. I like to leave some air in the bag so that I can shake it easier.
can i re used a small priority mail box? and if i use that do i just click and print the shipping as
Flat Rate Box.
5-3/8" x 8-5/8" x 1-5/8?
never shipped anything before.
Flat Rate Box.
5-3/8" x 8-5/8" x 1-5/8?
never shipped anything before.
I am still searching for better methods of cleaning. I have stopped using the water boil, 20/20/20/ burn with the heater get rid of extra oil quicker IMO. The boil in water in the long run I find let's oils and containments get deeper into the pours of the ceramic that seem to get harder and harder to get rid of. Then again an ounce plus may just not be able to be cleaned out of the EO cart so hence why 3 of my carts are going in for rebuilds.
As to why I stopped using water. My opinion is the 212f water is driving the containments of the oil into the ceramic pours rather the loosening it. This is my opinion only. It may have nothing to do with water boils but on the opposite side water boils have done little to clean my Cera EO cart so seems like a time wasting step I can skip.
There is a thread here about using BPW for glass gleaning. After 5lbs of the stuff I have to say it is pretty good stuff but has nothing on 90% ISO and the shake and break method especially if you use some rock salt ( which does not dissolve in alcohol and works like an abrasive ) but could have some effect of cleaning ceramic build up. I guess I should try out some health stones and see what the BPW does for cleaning these out.
As to why I stopped using water. My opinion is the 212f water is driving the containments of the oil into the ceramic pours rather the loosening it. This is my opinion only. It may have nothing to do with water boils but on the opposite side water boils have done little to clean my Cera EO cart so seems like a time wasting step I can skip.
There is a thread here about using BPW for glass gleaning. After 5lbs of the stuff I have to say it is pretty good stuff but has nothing on 90% ISO and the shake and break method especially if you use some rock salt ( which does not dissolve in alcohol and works like an abrasive ) but could have some effect of cleaning ceramic build up. I guess I should try out some health stones and see what the BPW does for cleaning these out.
Well i finally got to try the foil test. I was using the EO and the CGR and getting whispy hits. Switch to the foil and instantly got massive huge clouds...
But now im switching back and forth and the switch and foil are performing similarly...is that because the cera is still warm from the last hit?
Im pretty sure hits not in my head because recently it seems impossible to get the ceramic to look dry no matter how hard i run it but a few hits with the foil and its looking empty
But now im switching back and forth and the switch and foil are performing similarly...is that because the cera is still warm from the last hit?
Im pretty sure hits not in my head because recently it seems impossible to get the ceramic to look dry no matter how hard i run it but a few hits with the foil and its looking empty
BLAZING OG
Vaping is a way of life!
Yeah you can re-use any box , just remove any old label.can i re used a small priority mail box? and if i use that do i just click and print the shipping as
Flat Rate Box.
5-3/8" x 8-5/8" x 1-5/8?
never shipped anything before.
Then you can make an account on USPS and do a click and ship , pay for the label and thast it slap it on and send.
If your sending the cart only, its fairly small you can use a tiny box or even a padded envelope, I sent mine in wrapped in news paper and in a small padded envelope.
But the core is really tough the body Id use a big enough box to fit body and bubble wrap or anything that would cushion it.
EDIT
SORRY missed this part, the flat rate shipping is a certain size box for free from the post office, if it fits it ships for the flat rate price( price is according to the size of what will fit in box) It might be cheaper to send in a small envelope or you can do flat rate shipping and i Think it includes tracking for you.
flat rate starts at about 5.60 approx. and goes up according to how big the box you choose is.
BLAZING OG
Vaping is a way of life!
Oh, in that case they might email you a RMA return label if its under warranty, if not you just get the rma number from them and add your own label , and write the rma number on the outside of box.
I know that they send me a shipping label thru email pre paid and I just printed and sent out, if its not under warranty then you might have to pay to ship to them.
OF
Well-Known Member
If necessary. The goal is, I think, function not appearance.
In Beta testing I had carts rebuilt a dozen times or more (heater power changes mostly). This typically involved cleaning the ceramic parts (they fire them once removed). IIRC I got one new top plate and several cores when they were damaged in cleaning/rebuilding (the porous ceramic parts are quite expensive it turns out, routine replacement when not needed would drive the cost up for no return i performance).
Not to worry, they'll do a good job of it.
OF
OF
Well-Known Member
Just clean it up and send it in, they'll make it right. It's supposed to be loose so it can expand and contract with heat, perhaps it's just shifted.
Next time I'd be careful about poking the surface, it's really very frail and not intended to be "poked a bit". The walls of the pores are very thin....and made of brittle ceramic. You can probably cut a groove in the piece with your fingernail.....and not mess up your manicure too much.
Trust TV, they won't let you down.
OF
Czechyourhead
Well-Known Member
yes, and yes
nopartofme
Over the falls, in a barrel
My packages have been marked as coming from "T.E.T." or one time from Zeki. Definitely no mention of "vape".
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