If I thought i was capable I would, i just remember you saying remind me if i havent brought it up...thanks for getting things goin
Discontinued Thermovape Cera
- Thread starter SameOldTim
- Start date
BLAZING OG
Vaping is a way of life!
Getting silly with it, found a cera eo video I had'nt posted yet!! lol
PhotoRider
Diagnosed with level 11 G.A.S.
Haywood
Onward Thru the Fog
Charging rate, btw, is how much current (amps) you put into the battery. This determines how long it takes to charge the battery. More current, less time it takes. You're not dealing with the charge rate here, just the voltage left in the battery after you charge (or discharge) it.
Anywhere between 3.5 and 3.7 volts is fine for long term storage. You have to measure the voltage of the battery when it's NOT in the charger. Take it out of the charger and let it settle for five minutes and then measure the voltage. Or use it in your Cera for five or ten minutes after fully charging it, take it out, let it rest a few minutes, and read the voltage. The voltage will go up when it's in the charger, and down when it's being used in your Cera. When the voltage reads 3.6V, put the battery away for storage.
If you don't have an easy way to measure the voltage, what I recommend is that you take note how long it takes to charge a battery to full from a known depleted state, and then just charge it for half that time before putting it into storage. Or fully charge a battery and use it in your Cera for half the time it normally lasts.
You don't have to be super accurate here, you just don't want the battery to be mostly full or mostly empty. It won't make any difference if you store the battery at 3.5 volts or 3.7 volts.
Bad in the sense that if your charger
I try very hard not to leave charging batteries unattended, and I NEVER leave my apartment when there are batteries charging.
Oh, and I forgot to mention, we're talking about LONG TERM storage here, not a couple of days or a week. If you're storing a battery for a month or longer, then it makes sense to store it at ~3.6V or so. A week or so storage at full charge won't really do any significant damage. (Avoid leaving your batteries discharged much below 3.2V for any length of time though).
OF
Well-Known Member
This is fun, one of those half full/half empty things......
My advice for 'feeling' out the storage charge level is the other way around. Since you really don't know how discharged you are typically, charge the battery fully then use it for about 1/3 of it's normal capacity. If it does say half an hour per charge, vape to ten minutes then pull the battery and stash it.
I also fully agree, like horseshoes, close counts. I generally figure 3.7 Volts unloaded is about mid point in the 4.2 to 3.3 Volt range, and I want to be just above that if I can measure......and as we approach the precise number of angels are needed to populate a standardized pin.....
Keep it between the ditches (avoid fully charged or discharged) and you'll be fine, as will the battery.
OF
PhotoRider
Diagnosed with level 11 G.A.S.
OK, lucky me. Note to self quit leaving the batteries charging and leave the house. My vision is my neighbor coming home after a week vacation and the water line busted on the washer during the week. The washer was on the second story also... Wasn't a happy situation as i would be when my $10 battery and $20 charger burns down my house.
My 4x charger has a LED bar on each battery to the % of charge. Think I will find the voltage its at before it hits the last LED and see when to remove to store...
My 4x charger has a LED bar on each battery to the % of charge. Think I will find the voltage its at before it hits the last LED and see when to remove to store...
Herbalist23
Well-Known Member
Thanks Haywood!
My way to measure the voltage is the charger itself (I got the Xtar VP1) that shows the voltage in real time, so thats no problem
Herbalist23
Hey Guys, Just got my EO core back from repair(2nd time) and it is better than ever. First difference I notice was a larger gap on the core near the threads, also as soon as the switch was pressed it glowed red hot inside the core which it never did before. The air flow is super smooth and the ceramic cap doesn't get hot even after 20+ puffs! If they can keep up the quality of the core I think we might have a winner. Thanks to all the people who have commented on my posts to try and set me at ease while I had all my problems with my Cera. PEACE
Yeah its normal, or at least its what ive experienced with all my mouthpieces. I think it has something to do with the friction of getting it on or off, if it was any looser it wouldnt stay put. It shouldnt be a problem though, as most of the time i noticed the pieces that get torn usually get pushed upwards or stuck in between the mouthpiece and cartridge so you shouldnt loose anything down the chamber. most of my experience with it comes from the dart so there is the metal barrier inbetween the Mp and the cartridge but i have also noticed the o-ring on the dart does the same thing...
I usually wipe the o-ring with my finger when i take it out to remove any loose torn/pieces and residue...you can use a cloth or paper towel as well but the o ring attracts and traps some fibers which are annoying to get rid of
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Krazzykid
Well-Known Member
So I just finished playing catchup here, I have been away for a while. 205 pages was a lot of reading to do.
I have followed since the original thread, actually since the original thermovape products(always been a big fan of TET, TV).
I was getting very excited to hear all the progress that TET has made in getting the Cera working as should.
I was just about to place my order for the EO version, that is until I reached the last 15 or so pages of this thread. I am NOT happy at all at the recent decision by TET not to include the ceramic top cap and mouthpiece with the EO and EL orders. I know OF and others have said it's because of the cost of manufacturing the EO cart and whatnot but I really don't follow that logic at all.
TET charges basically $50 just for the ceramic mouthpiece and another $40 for the top cap, thats $90 just to add them to my order.
If I were to just buy the LL cart for $100 it already comes wit both of those as well as the LL cart. This is saying that the LL cart itself is only worth $10??? How is this at all possible. I feel in this aspect alone TET needs a serious pricing adjustment on some things.
I am not hating here, I have very much respect for TET and all the work they have done, but this alone has turned me off ordering until something changes
I have followed since the original thread, actually since the original thermovape products(always been a big fan of TET, TV).
I was getting very excited to hear all the progress that TET has made in getting the Cera working as should.
I was just about to place my order for the EO version, that is until I reached the last 15 or so pages of this thread. I am NOT happy at all at the recent decision by TET not to include the ceramic top cap and mouthpiece with the EO and EL orders. I know OF and others have said it's because of the cost of manufacturing the EO cart and whatnot but I really don't follow that logic at all.
TET charges basically $50 just for the ceramic mouthpiece and another $40 for the top cap, thats $90 just to add them to my order.
If I were to just buy the LL cart for $100 it already comes wit both of those as well as the LL cart. This is saying that the LL cart itself is only worth $10??? How is this at all possible. I feel in this aspect alone TET needs a serious pricing adjustment on some things.
I am not hating here, I have very much respect for TET and all the work they have done, but this alone has turned me off ordering until something changes
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I was thinking the same thing recently and just never got around to posting it. I really dont get it either but it sure does make the LL cart worth purchasing.
Also it should be noted that when it was first released you only got the topcap and mp when purchasing the cera and extra cartridges came with just the cartridge and no mouthpiece (ceramic or delrin). I think that was a better way of going about it but if they were losing money who am i to argue
IMO if they are not going to include those with the EO or EL they should at least include the smooth flow mouthpiece especially if your purchasing the whole Cera. The regular mouthpiece melted/burned and ive seen others with similar issues. Plus it just looks more complete with the metal smoothflow and metal cartridge.
Some people like it, while others like the more restricted draw of the smoothflow. Its all personal preference.
Also, im not positive but im sure if you contacted them prior to ordering telling them you just wanted the smoothflow they might be able to work something out to fix the shipping charge
PhotoRider
Diagnosed with level 11 G.A.S.
In my opinion (have both the EO and LL) the ceramic top isn't that useful on the EO cart. 1st the cart gets so hot and the heat is transfered to the ceramic easily. I like the thermo buffer of the white tip much more... Don't waste you money on it really.
Krazzykid
Well-Known Member
Well the whole point of the ceramic top is its filtration and cooling properties. Also the fact of why they aren't including it anymore and the pricing structure.
There is no way the ceramic cap and top costs 9 times as much as the loose leaf core does. The LL core is made of the same stuff and is hand made.
The ceramic top cap and mouthpiece cost $90 by themselves, yet if you buy just the LL core(no body) it comes with them. So by that pricing structure the LL core only really costs $10. Not possible.
Edit: Plus you are forgetting the fact that with the EO core heat only needs to be on for 30 seconds or so as opposed to minutes at a time with the LL core. The cap is going to get way hotter when using the LL core than with the EO.(And as much has been said many times already in this thread)
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PhotoRider
Diagnosed with level 11 G.A.S.
Hence the soft insulator top. I see little effect filtration from the top - not sure what you mean. There us nothing there, but small holes for the vape to pass through, maybe some cooling. The water vapor top is much better.
Can't comment on cost or margins. I just don't miss it on the EO. In fact some mods here are a solution for me to the heat of that top even for the LL.
Krazzykid
Well-Known Member
The soft insulator top is meant to go over the ceramic top. I understand I could mod it to make it better, but why should someone need to mod something out of the box?
There simply is filtration from the ceramic top, they designed it that way(hence the 4 right angles the vapor has to make before coming out into your mouth).
It also helps keep oil from leaking out, keeps debris from getting in the core, is the prefect size to mate up to a water pipe, and keeps with their model of an ALL CERAMIC VAPOR PATH!
It makes no sense for me to put a piece of plastic in there, thus IMO defeating the purpose of the device being medical grade. That is the very reason I am so interested in the Cera, for the all medical grade materials. Without the ceramic top it is no longer a medical grade device IMO.
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PhotoRider
Diagnosed with level 11 G.A.S.
? The EO is not ceramic like the LL its either SS or TI...
Not sure how the ceramic top mates with a water pipe...
I find it 1000% better to use the EO and O rings into a slightly enlarged 18mm female. It is perfect. And that is how its used 99% of the time for me. Not sure how the EO would be better for me.
I have not bought a single pen style vape I have not improved somehow so I'm OK with it to a point, but I understand your point on cost and teh change. More principal I guess, but in the end the EO is the best cart in my box and I own probably 20 different types.
On the soft top - yes that's my point. Its used partly to insulate the heat from the top.
Not sure how the ceramic top mates with a water pipe...
I find it 1000% better to use the EO and O rings into a slightly enlarged 18mm female. It is perfect. And that is how its used 99% of the time for me. Not sure how the EO would be better for me.
I have not bought a single pen style vape I have not improved somehow so I'm OK with it to a point, but I understand your point on cost and teh change. More principal I guess, but in the end the EO is the best cart in my box and I own probably 20 different types.
On the soft top - yes that's my point. Its used partly to insulate the heat from the top.
toros23
Well-Known Member
The ceramic MP mates perfectly with an 18mm female joint. It was designed to do that. Just a regular o-ring, nothing oversized needed. Curious how you can say your way is 1000% better if you have never tried the other way?? Or did I misread??
Krazzykid
Well-Known Member
I understand that the outside of the EO cart is metal, trust me. I defer you to read this post between Tim and myself in the original thread
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/t...sed-because-of-chaos.7504/page-20#post-298793
I specifically asked him how the Cera EO could have an all ceramic vapor path even though the core is made of either ss or ti. So I have already been assured by Tim that even though there is metal in the "air path" there isn't any in the "vapor path"
Edit: now with using a delrin tip instead of the original ceramic tip there will be plastic sitting directly in the core. Delrin offgases formaldehyde at around 446F(give or take a little depending on which exact one is used), so again using the now included delrin tip makes the device no longer medical grade in my opinion and a medical standpoint.
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aj0125
Well-Known Member
I have a foil test question regarding concentrates. I just picked up several new waxes and want to perform foil tests to see if they are ideal for Cera. When I do a foil test, what exactly am I looking for? Do I want the foil to be completely clean after the test, or is some discoloration normal? Should the foil have no residue but slight discoloration. A more detailed description of the results section of a foil test would be greatly appreciated. Does anyone have a picture of a Cera approved foil test, or a foil test where the concentrate wasn't good enough for Cera. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
kingofnull
ace
I doubt the temperature gets anywhere near 446F near the mouthpiece.
Now that I've fulfilled my contract with the manufacturer of those custom MPs, they're selling them on their own at http://www.aliexpress.com/item/1pcs...IPPING-E-Cigarette-Holder-Tube/960217334.html. $15 (incl free shipping) for a full ceramic MP that's custom-built for Cera. He made 100 of them so they'll ship immediately. You'll still have to buy http://www.vaporwarehouse.com/ceramic_screens.html and maybe even a few O-rings but if you want a lower priced all-ceramic MP, go nuts.
DISCLAIMER: You will be dealing directly with the manufacturer. I will be in no way involved - this is between you and them
DISCLAIMER: You will be dealing directly with the manufacturer. I will be in no way involved - this is between you and them