TA og owner very happy! same set on the way. Thank you @phattpiggieExcited to have joined the hype train, Smooth Adjusta Flo with magsink on the way! All aboard!
Thermal Accumulator by phattpiggie
- Thread starter Custom Flower Hardware
- Start date
SlickHenry
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the reply
. Now to decide on TA1 or TA3. Not sure how essential is the variable airflow on such a stem or if the larger heater is necessaryHave the same set plus screens and o-rings. Super excited! Looking forward to trying out PP work. Been eyeing this for a bit.Excited to have joined the hype train, Smooth Adjusta Flo with magsink on the way! All aboard!
General Disaster
Of cabbages and Kings.
Personally, I'd think that if the small extra cost isn't an issue, then having the airflow adjusta can only be an advantage at best, and no disadvantage at worse. Also, it has a slightly higher flow rate than the TA1, with the vents full open, so a small additional factor in choosing.Thanks for the reply
SlickHenry
Well-Known Member
Yes, you are probably right. My thinking with TA1 was there are no moving parts to fail and the simplicity of the set up. It was my understanding that the airflow between TA1 and TA3 (fully open) were comparable. I guess it depends on how open TA1 is on simple stem with no airflow adjustment. Is it a DTL setup or more MTL, which I believe version 1 was? (I read someone comparing it to sucking a milkshake through a straw).
General Disaster
Of cabbages and Kings.
Sorry, regards the DTL/MTL set up I'm no more experienced than yourself - never tried a beta.
[edit] Actually, thinking on it, the adjustables will give the most range of options for adjusting for the different methods, and different stems/wpa's/whatever. And they can cover a range of airflow ratings beyond the TA1 for open or reduced flows.
To me it's a no-brainer to select adjustable, but then that's cos I've no brain!
I think the airflow vents can be screwed down so they don't easily move, if desired, so it can be almost the same as the TA1, and I think the vent mechanism is simply enough to be reliable.
But that's just my impression from what's been shown and written so far. Pinch of salt unless someone here confirms or gives better advice?
Also, PP is very approachable if you have questions about what to buy, I guess he'd be the rock solid source if any doubts?
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El Duderino
The Dude abides.
Am I right in assuming that, apart from the different positioning of the lighter (heating the top half of the heater instead of heating the top 3rd), the following instructions still apply for using the new TA?
VapingYogi
Pranayama; of a sort.
this!
Franco
is (most likely) vaping
The restriction level is difficult to gauge because it depends on personal preferences and what devices you are comparing.
The TA can be used both for MTL and DTL hits. I think @phattpiggie's idea was more oriented towards MTL, but you can easily take a huge single hit no problem. After more than a year of heavy use, I'm still unsure which style I like the most. So yeah, pretty versatile.
Yes, with the TA3 (and I assume it'll be the same with the TA4) it's better to heat lower, I'd say halfway through the narrow part of the heater. But the timings are still spot on.
El Duderino
The Dude abides.
Great, thanks a lot!
SlickHenry
Well-Known Member
Thanks. When you say can be both a MTL and DTL do you mean if you have a stem with adjustable airflow? I will reach out to Phatpiggie as he is probably better placed to advise especially as this is a new version.
Franco
is (most likely) vaping
No. I tend to use the same stem for both MTL and DTL hits. It's the first in the image I posted a few pages back (https://fuckcombustion.com/threads/thermal-accumulator-by-phattpiggie.52933/post-1779243)
Personally, I don't know how any stem could "open" the airflow. Of course you can restrict it, but how open a device is will ultimately depend on the heater.
General Disaster
Of cabbages and Kings.
Actually, on this question of stem cooling etc.
I've seen photos of some TA (betas) on a stem, but appear to have some sort of round radiator fins between the bowl and the stem, like a set of washers welded on a short tube and spaced apart by a mm or two - but engineered from a solid block.
I can't say if they are part of the stem or something else, but does anyone know of a radiator device that can sit between the stem and the bowl fitting, without extending the stem length by more than about an inch (give or take) that can shed an extra few calories of heat before the vapour even hits the stem?
TIA.
(if only I had a decent lathe!
)
I've seen photos of some TA (betas) on a stem, but appear to have some sort of round radiator fins between the bowl and the stem, like a set of washers welded on a short tube and spaced apart by a mm or two - but engineered from a solid block.
I can't say if they are part of the stem or something else, but does anyone know of a radiator device that can sit between the stem and the bowl fitting, without extending the stem length by more than about an inch (give or take) that can shed an extra few calories of heat before the vapour even hits the stem?
TIA.
(if only I had a decent lathe!
)
coolbreeze
Well-Known Member
Fwiw, I bought a PP stem with mine (always wanted one!) and was saved by @VGOODIEZ who suggested I replace it with one of the finned models if I intended to use it with the TA. I wonder if @DynaBox would/could make an add-on radiator?Actually, on this question of stem cooling etc.
I've seen photos of some TA (betas) on a stem, but appear to have some sort of round radiator fins between the bowl and the stem, like a set of washers welded on a short tube and spaced apart by a mm or two - but engineered from a solid block.
I can't say if they are part of the stem or something else, but does anyone know of a radiator device that can sit between the stem and the bowl fitting, without extending the stem length by more than about an inch (give or take) that can shed an extra few calories of heat before the vapour even hits the stem?
TIA.
(if only I had a decent lathe!
P3tz
Active Member
Quick thought: 510 heatsinks? Might take some o-rings and a bit of grinding (as they are supposed to have 8,5mm connectors), but they are really cheap. Might be worth a try.Actually, on this question of stem cooling etc.
I've seen photos of some TA (betas) on a stem, but appear to have some sort of round radiator fins between the bowl and the stem, like a set of washers welded on a short tube and spaced apart by a mm or two - but engineered from a solid block.
I can't say if they are part of the stem or something else, but does anyone know of a radiator device that can sit between the stem and the bowl fitting, without extending the stem length by more than about an inch (give or take) that can shed an extra few calories of heat before the vapour even hits the stem?
TIA.
(if only I had a decent lathe!
General Disaster
Of cabbages and Kings.
Ah, interesting, you wouldn't be able to post a piccie would you? (if it's not a pain)
Ah, not familiar with these, got a link to somewhere just so I find the one you mean? (I don't know if there are different types?)
Thanks both!
coolbreeze
Well-Known Member
Unfortunately it's still on its way but these were those I ordered with the finned one the replacement:
I see someone snatched the Bamboo one already--that thing is amazing!
P3tz
Active Member
I was thinking of those: amazon.de or aliexpress to give you the idea... Sizewise all 510 connectors should have a diameter of ~8,5mm.
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Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Thanks for the reply
Of course not essential, I almost got the first one because of simplicity, but since I have the OG, I felt like the third would be more complimentary, with the larger heater, different air flow being adjustable as well, and finally magnetic so the magnet can help take off the heater and cool it down quicker with magsink... That final reason is what sold me ultimately since none of them have knurling at the tip to grip wood like before and I don't like silicone as much, but I think magnet would be better than both anyway!
Yes simplicity, I don't think there's a reason to suspect moving parts to fail, just simpler without... No variable to control and compare is what I would have liked about it... I think the slots of the 3 could provide more airflow than the more holes of the 1 although yes they are said to be about equal airflow... Might be useful if some restriction is desired, larger heater is the other variable though so not sure which will be better for me airflow wise? I'll have to experiment
And it was me that mentioned milkshake when describing the OG airflow, you can still do a deep inhale hit, but puffing just works really well instead... The restriction through water was a bit inconvenient for most of my preferred water pieces I guess? I was mostly using it to puff on a sherlock hook (it has one small hole in the center on the top so yeah having seven larger holes or two wide open slots that are adjustable should be a big improvement though some people like the restriction to control the extraction easier with less mindful effort I think)
General Disaster
Of cabbages and Kings.
Ah! Yes! that was exactly the sort of thing I was thinking of - re: the radiator fins! Thanks!Unfortunately it's still on its way but these were those I ordered with the finned one the replacement:
I see someone snatched the Bamboo one already--that thing is amazing!
Aw, it wood[sic] be lovely to afford one of those beauties! Best start saving I guess!
Oh, I see, yes, now I know what you mean. That's a nice option to play with, cheap enough not to care if it doesn't work!
Thanks!
I think, (therefore I yam?) , that the effects of friction, gas flow, and related, make the five holes of the TA1 more likely to have lower flow compared to the two holes of the adjustables, compared by the area of the open holes. i.e. the five hole device will have more length of hole-edge that causes higher flow reduction. The most unrestricted opening for a set area of hole, would be a single circular hole near centre of the top cap of the heater.
That's just from the physics of it, what the actual areas of 'hole' there are for the different TA's, I ain't got a clue! The thickness of the cap will effect this too.
(not to mention the impact on flow from passage through the heater and stem that back-propagates to the airholes from inside).
leanpubpackage
Well-Known Member
Splitting hairs you are indeed!
I went with the TA2 even though the TA3 supposedly had more airflow. I cared a little more about the size of the head and figured the difference in airflow between TA2 and TA3 were negligible. Plus, the additional balls will offset the additional airflow given by the cap openig. The tempest wide open has slits that are way smaller then either of the ones I mentioned and I have no airflow issues with the tempest
General Disaster
Of cabbages and Kings.
Oh, I absolutely agree! You should see my split ends! Dreadful!
I suspect the whole design of the Tempest will change so much of the geometry and air flow, it's not directly comparable with the TA's. Just the diameter of the heater and the smaller balls would be a major factor.
I believe the TA2 & 3 are essentially the same but the 3 has a larger heat capacity. It's increased length (and ball count) would have a small impact on flow compared to the 2 but I suspect too little to notice and/or matter.
In the end, my splitting hairs or not, we'll all find out when those TA's start a dropping on doormats everywhere ("
Tomorrow, tomorrow, I luv you tomorrow, you're only a day too late!
" )Which will be interesting!
[Edit]
I dunno if this is of interest to any waiting on ordering or anything, but just got some general info from PP on the TA, on posting it out...
Please do a burn off before use.
I have 48 hour Iso bathed and Iso q tipped everything as it goes through the assembly process but it doesn't seem to remove all the manufacturing oils.
An ultrasonic Iso bath gave the same results.
Blowing through the stem helps clear the residue quicker.
Once it is all gone you should never need to clean the heater again unless you combust.
Everything is Iso safe.
Please get in touch if you need any help with anything.
I've never lost a parcel yet but it's in the hands of the delivery gods now.
7-9 days has been an average delivery time.
Enjoy and thank you for the support it is very much appreciated.
I believe the average delivery time is for oversea's from UK, within it look's like a 24/48 hour delivery.
He seems to be doing everything himself, so if dealing direct, a little patience will be rewarded, though not much needed!
Just thinking on what was said about the manufacturing oils being hard to shift, I wonder whether using a non-polar organic solvent would work much better at dissolving those hydrocarbons? Not familiar with using iso on heavier alkanes, but I suspect it's not the best solvent for them specifically. A light B.pt. petroleum spirit of some sort, rinsed out with iso, may work well?
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General Disaster
Of cabbages and Kings.
My own take was it's a TA3 with a threaded top cap, so your bottom doesn't have to be removed to change ya balls.
jbm
Well-Known Member
Why is that an advantage? And is it sufficiently desirable to wait for it?My own take was it's a TA3 with a threaded top cap, so your bottom doesn't have to be removed to change ya balls.