Maybe your click discs are not oriented right? If you want you can disassemble the Visual indicator housing and check the user manual on madheaters website. Mine clicks once on the second notch of visual indicator and once again on third. I usually heat to first click with tripple torch and i get very consistent results
The Tempest by Mad Heaters & Phatpiggie
- Thread starter oddjobold
- Start date
NinneDDu
Well-Known Member
The third is combustion in my case, if I go over the second I end up with black avb
condition
Well-Known Member
I am a new user of the Tempest, and I use it exclusively with an IH
With the wand, the clicks depend on the glass bowl position, if I push it up till the end, I count ten seconds after the 2nd click, that the wand continues heating. Yesterday I reread the online manual, and pushed the glass bowl couple of millimeters down, this way there is no 2nd click at 280 Celsius setting.
However, this way works like the Anvil, i.e. finish the load in a long first draw, which produces huge vapor and then second draw produces way less vapor with burned taste.
With the wand, the clicks depend on the glass bowl position, if I push it up till the end, I count ten seconds after the 2nd click, that the wand continues heating. Yesterday I reread the online manual, and pushed the glass bowl couple of millimeters down, this way there is no 2nd click at 280 Celsius setting.
However, this way works like the Anvil, i.e. finish the load in a long first draw, which produces huge vapor and then second draw produces way less vapor with burned taste.
General Disaster
Of cabbages and Kings.
I think you're quite right about positioning in the Wand (or where the 'pest is heated by any other method).
If the heating is only on the steel sleeve, then the heat has to conduct through the housing to heat up the disks so they'll click.
I believe that the indicator housing is steel too, so if the 'pest is not quite so far in the glass cup (depending on the position of the glass) it may be inducting the indicator housing and maybe even the disks themselves, causing them to click sooner, and quite possibly closer together (if not simultaneously).
If the heating is only on the steel sleeve, then the heat has to conduct through the housing to heat up the disks so they'll click.
I believe that the indicator housing is steel too, so if the 'pest is not quite so far in the glass cup (depending on the position of the glass) it may be inducting the indicator housing and maybe even the disks themselves, causing them to click sooner, and quite possibly closer together (if not simultaneously).
Alligator427
Well-Known Member
I use mine with 320°C 23-26s (until light stop to flash), but I use a wpa and bubbler.
I have the first version without disc. You don't need it with the wand. Just count the flash.
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VaporChaser
New Member
Has anyone had issues using dhl for shipping? I ordered the tempest a bit ago and the delivery status has been stuck on processing through facility on usps for a few days now, i’m just wondering if this is normal or out of the ordinary for international shipments
Cannabiker
Well-Known Member
That is standard operating procedure. Each of mine has paused for a bit at that transition.
condition
Well-Known Member
This occurs with the DHL, which is not DHL express, I believe in EU DHL uses trucks for their economy shipments, but I am not sure. It takes around 5 working days though.
kegstandman420
Well-Known Member
I have 2 caps. 1 of my caps clicks perfectly everytime. The other 1 clicks perfectly first hit, but takes 25 mins sometimes to get the second cool down click. If I do another bowl before that I believe I'm only getting the first click, since the other clicker didn't snap back.
BuGDaSNuff
Member
hello i use ultrasonic bath for everything !!!! the best way to clean stem spare pars and balls
Minsc_NBoo
Active Member
I use a plastic tube filled with ISO, and then run it through the ultrasonic cleaner. It comes out sparkling!
It didn't completely get rid of the discolouration of the zirc balls though. 10 seconds with a torch brought them back to white
.d
Wubba Lubba dub-dub
Report from my 1st torch-clean of the stock zirc balls, using old tea metal tea strainer and creme brulee torch from SPAR above a deep ceramic plate: it is a simply magical experience, simple and fun experience. as soon as i stared seeing glow in balls or the strainer i would stop. shook them around a little torching the dirtier spots until everythign was more or less white. cooled down pretty fast. very happy.
I admit I was very sceptical and unsure of the recommended method, but after trying 70% iso in ultrasonic cleaner and failing i had no better ideas.
does this reduce their lifetime significantly or not really? (the glowups from heating?)
thanks, cheers, love you (good stuff is good)
I admit I was very sceptical and unsure of the recommended method, but after trying 70% iso in ultrasonic cleaner and failing i had no better ideas.
does this reduce their lifetime significantly or not really? (the glowups from heating?)
thanks, cheers, love you (good stuff is good)
David Root
Well-Known Member
You might find just the cooking end with no stem.
David
David
.d
Wubba Lubba dub-dub
just wait half a year and it will be back, or purchase only the tempest head and put it on some other body (non-tempest)
General Disaster
Of cabbages and Kings.
They appear to still be in stock at: https://verdampftnochmal.de/en/mad-heaters-tempest
But that means posting from Germany.
MadHeaters themselves have some factory seconds (usually hard to spot any flaws) in the wood Tempest, and you can get a factory second or full price Tempest head and bowl, and fit that to an 8mm stem of choice (including getting a revolve2 stem, which is almost same as Tempest stem but needs the wood sleeve for insulation).
But don't hang around too long or those'll vanish and you'll have to wait until next summer.
If you have a bong than you basically don't eaven need the original stem, i use mine with direct flow airflow tube so it is basicaly like a dynavap stem. And that is for native and on a bong. It doesn't get hot at all if you do one heat extraction and screw of the head after you hit it.
BushRanger
Hit It & Quit It
I believe complex machining of small titanium parts.
Got me 3 pairs of batteries for Wand and external charger, so easy now lol.
Starting to really like the 2nd temperature setting with zirc, 740f till light stops blinking. Its like 3 seconds after the 2nd click.
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0796
.
Hi!
Even when fully cooled, the visual indicator gets stuck and doesn’t reach the end.
The only solution is to loosen the screw, which allows the indicator to return to its cold position.
However, once the screw is tightened, the problem reappears after the first heating cycle.
BTW - when the screw is out of thread in titanium main part of the cap and the screw can move freely, the screw prefers to be in angle - maybe that’s why it stuck?
Any solution?
Either the VI pointer got bent slightly or there is a burr which you can clear by manually moving the pointer to the max position. If you can feel that it’s getting stuck while moving it then it’s bent.
Did you take it apart?
0796
.
GnarlyVandal
Well-Known Member
Yeah I did this to mine early on. Bent my indicator when taking it out, if there’s no burr, that’ll likely be the issue. If you look at the flat bottom of the VI when it’s taken out, it may be ever so slightly curved, just gotta flatten it out, I used 2 pairs of tweezers and it took me a good few tries to get it (mostly) right.
0796
.
It was burr as you said.
I don’t know where exactly -
fixed by smoothing out all edges of all parts in indicator section with extra fine sandpaper-sponge.
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.d
Wubba Lubba dub-dub
My indicator is working perfectly as far as I can tell, but I cannot unscrew the top screw... I'm scared of using too much force, but already used what I believe should be enough to unscrew the tiny screw...
Could it be stuck somehow? Would heating/cooling the head make it easier? Trying at normal room temp and it feels stuck and unscrewable.
Any advice? I don't really have to dissassemble it, only want to see if it needs cleaning, theoretically the vapour can get in so wanted to check...
Should I just drop it and continue using it ?
Could it be stuck somehow? Would heating/cooling the head make it easier? Trying at normal room temp and it feels stuck and unscrewable.
Any advice? I don't really have to dissassemble it, only want to see if it needs cleaning, theoretically the vapour can get in so wanted to check...
Should I just drop it and continue using it ?