What's the device you use to heat the tempest with?
The Tempest by Mad Heaters & Phatpiggie
- Thread starter oddjobold
- Start date
Jojofernz
Well-Known Member
Inductor
The Inductor is Camouflet's unique and incredibly powerful desktop induction heater for battery-free devices and accessories. Built around a tabletop power unit that incorporates a removable rolling tray, adjustment dial, and voltage meter display. A modular head is used to heat your device and...
TedJones
Well-Known Member
dudeguy
Well-Known Member
So, about cleaning the Tempest. How often would you suggest to clean if you vape 1-2 bowls a day? Also reclaim buildup in the balls seems like a potential combustion hazard. Can you avoid that with proper handling or is it something that will happen sooner or later?
Still debating if the Tempest, TM2 or CouchLog will be my next vape. I already own an Ispire Wand so combustion with the Tempest shouldn't be an issue right?
Still debating if the Tempest, TM2 or CouchLog will be my next vape. I already own an Ispire Wand so combustion with the Tempest shouldn't be an issue right?
Clean as often as it needs, very easy to check inside and judge if needs it or pull the helix out for a check, 1 or 2 bowls a day would take a while to get dirty probably. Personally I haven't really seen much if any reclaim on the balls, I heat it standing in the wand so not taking any precautions, seen some slight brown discoloration but nothing major, almost always use flower though, hash might be different.
You can actually clean the whole head without removing the balls if you choose, soak the whole thing in iso, you can remove the part that has the clicks discs and VI firstGlad to hear, dismantling the device every few weeks to clean the balls would have been a deal breaker. But I only use flower so this probably won't be needed often
kokolokokolokon
Well-Known Member
There are more possibilities to combust if you forget to let it cool down and use the same wand config
I feel when you get used to the tempest is hard to combust. Sometimes i try to extend the bowl and when I’m afraid i can combust…i see it just doesnt give me more vapor, without combustion
With hash you can go on and on. There is a risk that a little of hash sticks on the ball screen, it gets vaporized very well
when you finish to hit it, you can open it with the reload and yhen, instead emptying the bowl with the relod debowler…you do it with the cap to quit that hashThe balls can get dirty with hash, but if the hash doesn’t go pass the screen…the balls get dirty with oil…and when you heat them you vaporize the oil (the balls get colored but nothing more)
Last edited:
popitup
Well-Known Member
~150+ sessions in. My usage style has changed slightly. On the first hit, I draw slowly to bring the heat over the material, and not waste the heat on my throat. The second hit is where I go to town, like I'm sucking a golfball through a garden hose. Third is where I milk whatever is left, which depends on strain and how soon I had a back-to-back session. I no longer attempt to reheat within a single session, it's not worth combusting.
I don't use either indicator, just 1 cycle in the wand, and use the light on the wand.
Per the advice in this thread, I used the reload's screwdriver to remove the indicator portion of the cap before cleaning, and remove the airflow adjustment sleeve. I was able to soak in iso, then rinse it through without removing the balls. The taste was better, and less harsh then when I left it on, which would make me cough occasionally.
That being said, getting the indicator back on was pretty nerve racking. Tiny pieces, my fat fingers, and the center hole wasn't aligned, meaning I couldn't get it to screw down flush. I took my time, despite panicking, and used the screwdriver to massage the indicator assembly back to the center.
I don't use either indicator, just 1 cycle in the wand, and use the light on the wand.
Per the advice in this thread, I used the reload's screwdriver to remove the indicator portion of the cap before cleaning, and remove the airflow adjustment sleeve. I was able to soak in iso, then rinse it through without removing the balls. The taste was better, and less harsh then when I left it on, which would make me cough occasionally.
That being said, getting the indicator back on was pretty nerve racking. Tiny pieces, my fat fingers, and the center hole wasn't aligned, meaning I couldn't get it to screw down flush. I took my time, despite panicking, and used the screwdriver to massage the indicator assembly back to the center.
Same, to both! I hit it exactly the same, nice slow flavour filled draw to prime it then a nice big hit, find re heating pointless, very little vapour and tastes bad. It is so fiddly just getting the top back on, even if you haven't removed the VI or anything, as you say it's just lining the bar up in the groove so the screw can slide in, hopefully gets easier with practise
Singularity Walker
Well-Known Member
When I remove the top, I use a Reload Key-Chain Crown and Mad Magnet.
My screw doesn't seem to stick to my Mad magnet like in the video about putting in the Click Disc & VI indicators.
As such my method to do such has been to use one of my Reload Key-chain Crown with a Mad Magnet on it.
I loosen the screw holding the indicator housing just enough so I can lift/spin it. At that point I drop it on the magnet and then just hand unscrew the rest of the cap from the VI housing by turning the cap. That keeps the screw centered and prevents the VI from being moved out of the slots.
Once done, I spin the cap on the screw until it is almost locked in place, then remove the VI housing from the magnet, finish aligning VI housing to cap and tighten the screw.
EDIT: to clarify. I don't do this for cleaning, just when I was messing around that was the system I came up with to make it easier.
My screw doesn't seem to stick to my Mad magnet like in the video about putting in the Click Disc & VI indicators.
As such my method to do such has been to use one of my Reload Key-chain Crown with a Mad Magnet on it.
I loosen the screw holding the indicator housing just enough so I can lift/spin it. At that point I drop it on the magnet and then just hand unscrew the rest of the cap from the VI housing by turning the cap. That keeps the screw centered and prevents the VI from being moved out of the slots.
Once done, I spin the cap on the screw until it is almost locked in place, then remove the VI housing from the magnet, finish aligning VI housing to cap and tighten the screw.
EDIT: to clarify. I don't do this for cleaning, just when I was messing around that was the system I came up with to make it easier.
Last edited:
TedJones
Well-Known Member
Not yet for mine. Click & VI still function fine. I’m just swishing it around in a baggie of iso for a couple of minutes, then rinse (every second or third cleaning). Only using flower so the iso is still clear with maybe a few specs of abv when said & done. Sits on the air purifier to dry out.
KindBuddyBud
Well-Known Member
I get most of my 18650 batteries and
accessories from here
Chargers | IMRBatteries.com
Find over 70 chargers for lithium ion batteries from popular brands like Nitecore, Efest, XTAR, IMREN and more.
www.imrbatteries.com
Why would you not want a charger than can handle more than just 18650s? It does not impact the function of the charger at all.
rebelFarmer
Well-Known Member
I remember folks talking about SiC balls, anyone got an update on this? Where are people getting them? Kinda wanting to try them, after I was too rough on the ball screen and dumped them in the de-bowler (flying too high... thought I was de-bowling LOL!)
This is a good charger -
XTAR PB2S Charger - XTAR
Type-C Dual-role Fast Charger and Power Bank·Portable Charger with Power Bank Function·QC3.0+PD3.0 Fast Charging·Great Compatibility, More Than
www.xtar.cc
used with a fast charger like this -
i want one that is made for the specific size. i find the spring type annoying to load. that’s all
Possibly resin leaking through the mouthpiece/carb? If you heat the Tempest upside down (cap down, mp up), then resin can leak through the cap and into the wand adapter. Heating right side up (cap up, mp down), and resin can leak through the mp. The only time this happened to me was when I was torching/spinning the Tempest right side up, I now torch the Tempest horizontally (Tempest horizontal, flame vertical) and do a weekly cleaning, so it hasn’t happened in awhile.