Discontinued The Sublimator

[herbivore21]

Wish that I could join in, but I have ventured over to the dark side, sold my sub and got a Mighty and Crafty

The sub is still the single most powerful unit for single hits and is ideal, but I don't really live in the ideal situation to own one anymore and the Mighty connected to glass comes SOOOOOOOO close and tastes considerably better.

I would be surprised to see anything ever take the clouds clown away from the sub though!

 

[eddiezheadiez]

Are the connections on the heating elements and the launch controller proprietary? Sorry if this question has been answered before, I couldn't find anything.

 

[jambandphan03]

this was barely discussed a while back, and I believe they said they were making them pinned to be for the sub only, you can't just buy prefab parts to replace them, but I still use the first line model and don't have a way to confirm that info... pretty sure they changed the pin sequence.

 

[grokit]

The v1 sublimators are straight ac-powered and hardwired all the way through, while v2 seems to be a dc-powered modular system with proprietary xlr connections.

 

[herbivore21]

The XLR connections are not proprietary. They are bog standard terminals on the sub XLR 2.0 which have been wired with a pin arrangement different to how these cables would be used in their most common application - microphone leads.

So long as you terminate the wires the same way, there is no reason why you couldn't make extensions very easily!

Please also ensure that the wiring in between the XLR terminals will support carrying 36v.

 

[grokit]

Right, they're standard 3-pin xlr connectors but the wiring is proprietary.
Which is just semantics, as xlr by definition is universal not proprietary technology.

 

[MGG]

what number on the dial are you guys usually hitting flowers at, and how much flowers are you usually packing into the sub, 0.1? cheers.

 

[Zanin]

Hmm for the dabmaster xlr 2.0 will I get more effects going to max temp on the dial? I'm trying 10 along with some hash and skywalker, but it's not as body heavy as I'd like. 8 on the dial feels sativa like.

 

[jrk4d]

@herbivore21 I'm not particularly educated on electronics. Can you tell me as simply as possibly, can you just but a 2.0 heater and any xlr control box? I had the wattage drop and rewired. I've never been able to get it to consistently pull above 43 watts and that temp always leaves my Apollo coated when dabbing my sublimate, even when my atomizer is at temp. Just wondering if you could hook up heater to some enails with xlr connections. When I ask for the simple answer I guess I mean if you can't simply plug it into another xlr box, how exactly would you make things "line up" is the only way I can think to word it.. Anyone's input is welcome. Not just @herbivore21!

 

[herbivore21]

@herbivore21 I'm not particularly educated on electronics. Can you tell me as simply as possibly, can you just but a 2.0 heater and any xlr control box? I had the wattage drop and rewired. I've never been able to get it to consistently pull above 43 watts and that temp always leaves my Apollo coated when dabbing my sublimate, even when my atomizer is at temp. Just wondering if you could hook up heater to some enails with xlr connections. When I ask for the simple answer I guess I mean if you can't simply plug it into another xlr box, how exactly would you make things "line up" is the only way I can think to word it.. Anyone's input is welcome. Not just @herbivore21!

Unfortunately, you could not do this with reliable results. The reason is that enails are almost all running on 120v AC (with some 240v exceptions), whilst the sub heater takes 36v DC power. This is a bad idea.

However, you could get yourself a rotary dimmer to put in the middle, or even find an electrically inclined friend to make a PID controller unit that runs on 36v and could be configured to give a degree precise temp control.

Here's the thing. If you get an XLR 2.0 heater and get your hands on the power supply unit (somebody here who has a sub could give you the serial number, they can be found on dhgate for 25 bucks or so!) and then wire the sub heater directly to the unit (no controller in the middle) the sub will run at full temp (like 12 on the dial of a standard xlr 2.0 setup). To modify the power going into it, you could put a dimmer in between the 36v PSU and the sub heater. This will give you temp control.

A google search will give you swathes of different options for dimmers. I can't remember how many amps the XLR 2.0 psu is rated for but if someone here could provide that detail, this will let us know what kind of wattage you will need a dimmer to be rated for. To calculate this figure, you multiple the voltage (36v) x the current (measured in amperes). The figure you get is the maximum wattage that your sub heater could draw from the PSU and hence the maximum wattage you need to find a dimmer for

Hope this helps! Let me know if you have any more questions

 

[jrk4d]

I love everyone's desire on this site to help educate others. Thanks @herbivore21! Answered my questions exactly. Next question about those with the 2.0. Sorry if this question belongs elsewhere.. Is DC voltage stronger than AC voltage? My kaw says I pull 48 volts Max with my 1.0 and my sublimate issues still exist. How are people doing dabs from the slab with only 36v available?

 

[herbivore21]

I love everyone's desire on this site to help educate others. Thanks @herbivore21! Answered my questions exactly. Next question about those with the 2.0. Sorry if this question belongs elsewhere.. Is DC voltage stronger than AC voltage? My kaw says I pull 48 volts Max with my 1.0 and my sublimate issues still exist. How are people doing dabs from the slab with only 36v available?

Typically, DC power supplies will provide much lower voltages than mains AC power.

In my part of the world, mains power (AC power) runs at around 240v.

In the US, it runs at 120v

DC power will most commonly be below 12v, except for some kinds of medical/scientific/industrial tools, and the sub, which can run at 36v or even weirder proprietary voltages.

Your kill a watt provides a reading in watts, which is a measurement of energy transfer in this case. If your sub was pulling 48w maximum, that is not the same as the voltage. I believe the OG Sub runs on mains 120v AC power. With this, we can determine that the maximum current (in amperes) that you were drawing = .4a

I am unaware of normal wattage measurements for a fully functioning og sub.

Man have you considered just getting a standard 120v inline dimmer and replacing the sub's cord/controller with that?

Also 36v and 120v are not full measures of the energy use of the subs, only their voltage. Wattage (which = voltage x amperage) is a much better measure of energy usage.

For example:

36v @ 5a = 180w (36 x 5) of energy whereas 120v @ 1a (120 x 1) = 120w.

Hope this makes sense, and glad to be helping out, this board has provided me with more than I could have ever imagined!

 

[jrk4d]

@herbivore21 that all makes perfect sense. I believe I've done as you described with my og sub when my wattage dropped. Cut out the dimmer, connected wires and plugged into a dimmer switch that plugs into my kaw. That's where I'm at now, pulling the 43 watt max. I've heard some og subs pulling as much as 60 watts but are not designed to pull more than 45w. The problem I have is my outlet voltage varies anywhere from 114 to 121 volts. Late at night when the power lowers I can only pull 38 watts which is why I'm looking for a cheap solution. I know my wires and dimmer are good, so I imagine the ceramic heating element is maybe not "slowing" the current enough to get to those high temps due to damage caused to material at wattage above 50. I know enrico probably would never sell just the ceramic to a customer, more likely make me spend $35 shipping both ways to Canada and then charge who knows what for parts and labor as I don't think issue is covered under the $20 electronics repair after the warranty ends. Seems like the physical ceramic is the issue rather than the obvious electronic parts. I'm getting great hits every single time with my sub using flowers. I just have no idea what I'm gonna do when this thing craps out, or seeing the easiest way to fix a crap out. I mean coming from someone not educated much on electricity, the subs wiring seems about as elementary as wiring gets. I can't think of a reason an Apollo would ever be beyond repair right?

 

[Danvapereviews]

Hey all, long long long time lurker here

I'm about to pull the trigger on the $550 Adapt-a-sub apollo kit, and was wondering about the performance differences in the Full Ti Atomizer vs the stainless steel one.
My funds are not limited but I am quite the cheap ass when I pay for overly expensive products.

Could anyone persuade me towards the Sublimator and make me pull the trigger, or are S&B products (even with their current build flaws)more highly favored? I'm quite interested in owning a few more portables, and could get the mighty and crafty for just a couple hundred $$ more

 

[KelevrA]

@Danvapereviews: Yes, the device is worth getting. I would highly recommend titanium over Steel. Better properties for constant/consistent heat from what I've read and experienced. I have the steel Adapt-A-Sub Apollo XLR 2.0 kit and this device blows EVERYTHING else out of the water. I should note there is a lot of testing/tweaking involved in getting it to hit right for your needs so be prepared to experiment like that. Several recommendations for enjoying the Sublimator with little to no issues:

1) Let the Apollo and Atomizer unit heat up together, this is critical.

2) Insert metal screen AFTER all metal parts have heated up for about 10-15 minutes. This will vape off excess residue from previous uses too; helping keep your parts cleaner.

3) This product blows the Volcano Digit out of the water (I own several different vaporizers.)

(For those unaware, I own: 1x Volcano Digit, 1x Ascent By DaVinci, 1x G Pro Herbal by Grenco Science (USA Based company out of California,) 2x The Original DaVinci Vaporizer, and a host of concentrate vapor pens mostly from Grenco Science.)

I would say get the Adapt a kit, get the grade 2 titanium nail and order through PlanetVape.Ca. I was advised 4 business days for shipment and received mine in two and a half business days. Additionally, if you're a fan of Lays potato chips or snack chips in general, they also send you a bag of chips with your order free of charge of course.

Hope this helps you and others =)

Wish that I could join in, but I have ventured over to the dark side, sold my sub and got a Mighty and Crafty

The sub is still the single most powerful unit for single hits and is ideal, but I don't really live in the ideal situation to own one anymore and the Mighty connected to glass comes SOOOOOOOO close and tastes considerably better.

I would be surprised to see anything ever take the clouds clown away from the sub though!

Have you ever tried the Ascent portable vaporizer by DaVinci? I've never tried the S&B portable vapes and for the price and features they offer would be hard pressed to justify that cost knowing what I know about the Ascent Vaporizer. It uses the cleanest grade pathways of any device for vaporizing I've ever used from the ceramic glass bowl to the glass air pathway that runs up the device. Build quality is stellar, the bowl is easy to pack and empty and it's below $300 USD. I'm not trashing S&B because I love my Volcano Digit but I think S&B screwed up when they priced their products out on the Mighty and Crafty.

I should note that taste wise, nothing has ever beaten the taste the all glass pathway of the Ascent has provided. In terms of price point, the G Pro Herbal ($80-130 USD depending on the model you get. By model, I simply mean they offer different artist collaboration varieties of their original product so they have unique designs that set them apart externally only in design) has been my favorite portable vape because it most closely resembles the taste of the almost $300 Ascent by DaVinci

 

[Danvapereviews]

@KelevrA Wow man, I can't say how appreciative I am of the wall of information you just gave me.

I had an obvious feeling that heat Retention would be better with the titanium, so thanks for reinforcing my thoughts.

As for getting the right temp, yes from what I've heard as well, everyone had their own sweet spot, (currently I'm medicating for severe ocd, IBS, stomach ulcers, and a fractured left foot) so I think the "rip" associated with the sublimator will knock out at least half of my problems right from the get-go.

I've been hesitant on purchasing for so long because of all the new designs and people that have been coming with new vaporizers,
for instance, Ex-Nasa employees releasing the Herbalizer... next thing I know, Kim ung-yong, Steven hawking, and Sir Andrew Wiles will be releasing the "next big thing" to come to vaporizers

I'm rambling, but once again thanks for the reply. I'll be purchasing this in the next couple weeks as a reward for taming some more ocd rituals. Happy Vaping!

 

[MGG]

I'm still concerned about how well the sublimator will function long term, I feel like i'm already having issues with its heat retention dropping and me having to use higher temps to compensate.

 

[Frederick McGuire]

I got a sub-buddy along with my sub from planetvape -

Looks like the claim catcher needs to go to catching school
I'm assuming it would've worked well for the old style crazy long atomizers though.

 

[KelevrA]

I'm still concerned about how well the sublimator will function long term, I feel like i'm already having issues with its heat retention dropping and me having to use higher temps to compensate.

How long have you had yours? Are you making sure to let the atomizer and apollo heat up together? I noticed that when I didn't do that I wasn't getting good rips from the start. I use temp setting 8 and get huge rips, retain the taste and don't die coughing but have to let the apollo and atomizer heat up together for about 15 minutes before it's good to use

 

[MGG]

How long have you had yours? Are you making sure to let the atomizer and apollo heat up together? I noticed that when I didn't do that I wasn't getting good rips from the start. I use temp setting 8 and get huge rips, retain the taste and don't die coughing but have to let the apollo and atomizer heat up together for about 15 minutes before it's good to use

I find with my dabmaster it can take almost an hour to properly heat up :/. and i am letting them heat up together.

 

[KelevrA]

I find with my dabmaster it can take almost an hour to properly heat up :/. and i am letting them heat up together.

That is truly unfortunate. I have never used or intend to get the dabmaster simply because I have an electronic digital read out heated xlr coil that I use with a Highly Educated InfiniTi nail ($170 USD rooughly depending on where you get it from.) I got the sublimator purely for flower. If I want to dab, I can stick a bit through the holes in the apollo unit while doing flowers but when it comes to oils and dabbing, I prefer to use oil dedicated pipes/rigs. Also, I've learned with the reclaimers @Frederick McGuire that using a blow torch and fanning it across the glass quickly will not break the glass and heat up the built up concentrate and allow it to drip down closer to the reclaim bucket held in by the K-clip. There will be a point though where you have to remove the parts from each other, hover the main apparatus over the reclaim bucket on a solid non moving surface and slowly fan the ground joint where the dripped down reclaim is until it drips into your reclaim bucket. I actually subsisted on reclaim for an entire week before getting my sublimator using that exact process on my 90º Grav Labs reclaimer

 

[Danvapereviews]

Does the Sub ever have sales or is that just a fantasy of mine?

 

[jrk4d]

Sublimatior's prices only go up.

 

[grokit]

Sublimatior's prices only go up.

Sounds like a great investment then
Pick up a dozen, wait for them to appreciate and rake in the big bucks!

On a more serious note, I found a coupon code for 15% off when I bought my apollo kit, but the only shipping available was overnight international and over $150. Great shipping though, worth it imo.

 

[jrk4d]

was your coupon from PV? I always assumed the Sub was like S&B and pretty much never gets discounted