Discontinued The Splinter by RBT
- Thread starter RastaBuddhaTao
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Rasputin
Bobcat @ VLife. Le__Bobcat @ IG
Sadly, it's not ISO as you stated. It's U.S. scientific glass measurements. Ryan cut the 19mm to length in house. A 19mm U.S. OD is technically 18.8mm which is why 18mm ISO joints may be a bit small and wobble.
19/22mm joints in the U.S. aren't too hard to find. I ordered from Glasscraft Inc and I got stems(Chinese glass of course) for $4 each.
If outside the U.S., it seems cumbersome. Sorry.
SavageCore
Well-Known Member
Rasputin
Bobcat @ VLife. Le__Bobcat @ IG
You truly are 'savage'! The 14/20s are mixed in so be certain you choose 19/22. The amber ones are .88 cents each. I break glass ALL the time.
Where you will get nailed is shipping. I ordered 10 stems/joints for $40.00(some more expensive colors and some cheaper) - $20 was in shipping. Shipping is by weight obviously.
There is an estimated shipping calculator, and you can request to be emailed with exact shipping cost before you confirm your order- it takes a day or 2 to be notified. Had I gone all amber I probably could've gotten 20.
hi Guys
Sad to hear of RBT struggles for such a great product.
Glad i purchased the Milaana and Splinter from Vapefiend whilst i still could and hopefully some Mi2's will find there way across the pond if the worst does happen...
Anyway the Splinter is my first use of a Mod and just looking for some help with the Reuleax RX Gen 3 - been using on Watt mode but sure this offers so much more.
Have seen FJ firmware mentioned so any advice on this would also help
Thanks
Sad to hear of RBT struggles for such a great product.
Glad i purchased the Milaana and Splinter from Vapefiend whilst i still could and hopefully some Mi2's will find there way across the pond if the worst does happen...
Anyway the Splinter is my first use of a Mod and just looking for some help with the Reuleax RX Gen 3 - been using on Watt mode but sure this offers so much more.
Have seen FJ firmware mentioned so any advice on this would also help
Thanks
SloJimFizz
Unknown Member
Yay, my Evic vtwo mini found it's way home.
I have an earlier version of funkys firmware on it, before you could change the temp whilst cruising.
Anywhoo, I see what you mean by the temp steadily building on cruise, in wattage mode. My on demand number is right at about 30-33 watts. So naturally, one would hit cruise right from that setting. The cruise keeps on building to the 30 or so watts, which is farther along then when we release the fire button when on demand. If that makes sense, could be rubbish. On demand wattage and cruise wattage differ.
For successful cruising in wattage mode, I have to drop down to 19-20 watts. And it builds to that nice sweet temp, delivering those lower temp terpy hits along the way, then just hovers at the perfect temp. I need to update to the latest firmware for changing temp in cruise mode, but the updater was fighting back last night.
In short, I now love cruise mode with the Splinter after being a mostly an on demand guy.
Hate to hear about the trouble going down. Hope the ship gets righted.
Maybe the huge European order, plus the current wait list applied a kind of stress not many of us could understand.
Pic of the Splinter with the rest of the RBT fam.
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SavageCore
Well-Known Member
You can say that again! Shipping estimates start at $50.50 to this side of the pond. Useful for an EU group buy though.
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KeroZen
Chronic vapaholic
@SloJimFizz: man cruise mode in wattage mode is really wrong! Cruise mode is for TC only otherwise you really risk damaging your heater and/or wood. The Splinter (nor any RBT vape) was not designed to sustain long periods with the heater on.
The only safe way to use cruise mode is TC in which case the Watts will drop to practically nothing once the heater is at set temperature. Otherwise temperature will rise until the heater reaches thermal equilibrium, and it chars the wood in all RBT vapes (plus surely bad for the adhesives etc)
The only safe way to use cruise mode is TC in which case the Watts will drop to practically nothing once the heater is at set temperature. Otherwise temperature will rise until the heater reaches thermal equilibrium, and it chars the wood in all RBT vapes (plus surely bad for the adhesives etc)
SloJimFizz
Unknown Member
KeroZen
Chronic vapaholic
Well, cruise mode is just removal of the trigger button such that it's on for a set amount of time. Cruise mode in power mode (wattage) would be exactly the same as a log vape that stays powered on your desktop. The differences are that a log vape heats rather slowly and gently and that there is way more insulation (air gap) between the heater core and wooden log body.
The problem is that we have practically no insulation between the glass heater core and wood sleeve on the Splinter. And on top of that, adhesives are used for structural integrity (and those usually don't like too much heat)
Now the question indeed would be to find what power figure yields an equilibrium which is safe both for the heater mesh and the vape body. And it's a complex matter and of course it would be valid only when you don't draw. We need to avoid making the mesh glow too much to prevent oxidation and premature metal fatigue. We also need to prevent the wood from drying too much or worse to char (happens pretty fast in the Milaana for instance, many users found that the hard way when transporting the vape with the battery still in place!)
So it would also depend how frequently you draw on the device while in cruise mode. Perhaps it wouldn't really reach any equilibrium and would perpetually rise in temperature with a gentle slope (provided you use a low power value, like maybe 19W or below as you said) and it would cool down somewhat every-time you draw, preventing to land in the red zone...
I don't know. But Ryan clearly warned that we should never engage the heater for too long without drawing and there's a real reason for that. On the other hand cruise mode with TC enabled should be fine (yet heat will accumulate in the body and transfer down the mod eventually, sometimes leading to the dreaded "device too hot" error message)
The problem is that we have practically no insulation between the glass heater core and wood sleeve on the Splinter. And on top of that, adhesives are used for structural integrity (and those usually don't like too much heat)
Now the question indeed would be to find what power figure yields an equilibrium which is safe both for the heater mesh and the vape body. And it's a complex matter and of course it would be valid only when you don't draw. We need to avoid making the mesh glow too much to prevent oxidation and premature metal fatigue. We also need to prevent the wood from drying too much or worse to char (happens pretty fast in the Milaana for instance, many users found that the hard way when transporting the vape with the battery still in place!)
So it would also depend how frequently you draw on the device while in cruise mode. Perhaps it wouldn't really reach any equilibrium and would perpetually rise in temperature with a gentle slope (provided you use a low power value, like maybe 19W or below as you said) and it would cool down somewhat every-time you draw, preventing to land in the red zone...
I don't know. But Ryan clearly warned that we should never engage the heater for too long without drawing and there's a real reason for that. On the other hand cruise mode with TC enabled should be fine (yet heat will accumulate in the body and transfer down the mod eventually, sometimes leading to the dreaded "device too hot" error message)
@KeroZen: As you said, cruise mode simply removes the need to hold the button. I use @funkyjunky's firmware with the vaping time set to 30 seconds. If I am in Wattage mode, which is almost always, I usually double click. This starts a 30 second heating cycle. I do this no matter what wattage I've selected. My normal range is between 20W and 30W, but I've done 30 seconds at 50W for test purposes. There has been absolutely no sign of an issue. For the last 5 seconds or so at 50W, you can see the heater start to glow a bit. That's about the only noticeable effect.
I wouldn't doubt that repeated 30 second cycles at 50W, close enough together, could eventually cause damage. Nobody would do this for herbs, though, since you'd probably get combustion before 30 seconds elapsed at 50W. At 30W, I'm not sure how close together the heat cycles would have to be to do damage, but I'm willing to bet that under any sane normal use, there is nothing to fear from cruise mode for 30 seconds.
I wouldn't doubt that repeated 30 second cycles at 50W, close enough together, could eventually cause damage. Nobody would do this for herbs, though, since you'd probably get combustion before 30 seconds elapsed at 50W. At 30W, I'm not sure how close together the heat cycles would have to be to do damage, but I'm willing to bet that under any sane normal use, there is nothing to fear from cruise mode for 30 seconds.
analytika
Well-Known Member
In today's news, @RastaBuddhaTao announces Ryan's Rants, his new blog. The first entry follows up on yesterday's email.
He says "all warranty returns (no charge to say thanks for your patience)". Wow!
@RastaBuddhaTao sells a special cooling glass piece, the XL8R (the "excel-a-tor"), that not only fits perfectly but also adds dramatic vapor cooling to any Rastabuddahtao device, whether the Milaana, the Splinter, the Milanna 2, the Splinter Z, or the Zion.
IMHO, it's the coolest vapor available from a reliable on-demand convection device, with wide air flow.
He says "all warranty returns (no charge to say thanks for your patience)". Wow!
Here's a way to stop stressing about "fit":
@RastaBuddhaTao sells a special cooling glass piece, the XL8R (the "excel-a-tor"), that not only fits perfectly but also adds dramatic vapor cooling to any Rastabuddahtao device, whether the Milaana, the Splinter, the Milanna 2, the Splinter Z, or the Zion.
IMHO, it's the coolest vapor available from a reliable on-demand convection device, with wide air flow.
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potenthits
Well-Known Member
I've asked FJ about gen 3 support as there is a branch of myevic that supports that mod (which is a great mod). FJ said he will work on integrating support for gen 3 in future firmware released.
Smoke1ForMe
Well-Known Member
Any idea if he is going to restock the XL8R? Been out of stock every time I check to order.
HerbieVonVapster
Well-Known Member
As I understand it TC mode should be safe to use in cruise. Really it's the only way I feel it's safe and worthwhile.
In TC mode you should have have the temperature set at a level that produces the desired vapor. Set up like this it shouldn't tax the coil or heat up device to a level it be damaged. It's only sending very low watts to maintain set temperature. When take a hit in TC it will increase wattage needed to stay at the set temperature.
The problem with cursing in wattage mode is to be safe you have to set wattage low. Sure the first hit might be ok. After that the lower wattage is not enough to allow another good hits till the heat builds up again. I don't see you really getting the best hits using it this way.
If set the wattage higher to compensate you risk unit heating up causing possible damage. There no real temperature control in most mods in wattage mode. So it going sit there getting hotter and hotter.
Once you start using it without having the wattage increasing you will use up the extra heat. Depending on draw speed and amount of hits the vapor will begin to feel cooler. So you be tempted to bump up wattage.
I can see this leading to problems. I tend to get sidetracked when medicating. Could see myself setting it down in cruise mode and forgetting it was on. I see it has a built in timer does it have safety cutoff? Or could someone set it to something crazy like 30 mins?
Either way I see no real benefits in using it locked into a constant on cycle in wattage mode. Really with things up in the air with RBT going baby mine. As far as I know the sprinter heater isn't user serviceable. Want keep her around as long as possible.
Now in TC mode is where I would use cruise if I had it. Be much easier with the the orbiter if didn't need press fire button.
Sad day reading the email and Ryan's rant. I had just sent in my spare milaana for glass repair. Don't really need 2. So think may find a new home for her and buy a Milaana 2. Was hoping on the splinter Z being my next purchase but not sure where that project stands now?
Really hoping Ryan finds away to keep the business going. Personally I love the handcrafted nature of his products. But do understand the dilemma that would cause with making a living.
Regardless of how this turns out I do wish him the very best. I really enjoyed using his vaporizer over many years. Still kicking myself for not getting a Zoin when they where available
.
Every interaction I have had with Ryan has been good. Sometimes a little delayed. But he always ended up answering my question and doing any repairs I have needed.
Thanks I need to swing by his site and check out the XL8R and the milaana 2.0 before there gone.
In TC mode you should have have the temperature set at a level that produces the desired vapor. Set up like this it shouldn't tax the coil or heat up device to a level it be damaged. It's only sending very low watts to maintain set temperature. When take a hit in TC it will increase wattage needed to stay at the set temperature.
The problem with cursing in wattage mode is to be safe you have to set wattage low. Sure the first hit might be ok. After that the lower wattage is not enough to allow another good hits till the heat builds up again. I don't see you really getting the best hits using it this way.
If set the wattage higher to compensate you risk unit heating up causing possible damage. There no real temperature control in most mods in wattage mode. So it going sit there getting hotter and hotter.
Once you start using it without having the wattage increasing you will use up the extra heat. Depending on draw speed and amount of hits the vapor will begin to feel cooler. So you be tempted to bump up wattage.
I can see this leading to problems. I tend to get sidetracked when medicating. Could see myself setting it down in cruise mode and forgetting it was on. I see it has a built in timer does it have safety cutoff? Or could someone set it to something crazy like 30 mins?
Either way I see no real benefits in using it locked into a constant on cycle in wattage mode. Really with things up in the air with RBT going baby mine. As far as I know the sprinter heater isn't user serviceable. Want keep her around as long as possible.
Now in TC mode is where I would use cruise if I had it. Be much easier with the the orbiter if didn't need press fire button.
Sad day reading the email and Ryan's rant. I had just sent in my spare milaana for glass repair. Don't really need 2. So think may find a new home for her and buy a Milaana 2. Was hoping on the splinter Z being my next purchase but not sure where that project stands now?
Really hoping Ryan finds away to keep the business going. Personally I love the handcrafted nature of his products. But do understand the dilemma that would cause with making a living.
Regardless of how this turns out I do wish him the very best. I really enjoyed using his vaporizer over many years. Still kicking myself for not getting a Zoin when they where available
. Every interaction I have had with Ryan has been good. Sometimes a little delayed. But he always ended up answering my question and doing any repairs I have needed.
Thanks I need to swing by his site and check out the XL8R and the milaana 2.0 before there gone.
As I understand it TC mode should be safe to use in cruise. Really it's the only way I feel it's safe and worthwhile.
In TC mode you should have have the temperature set at a level that produces the desired vapor. Set up like this it shouldn't tax the coil or heat up device to a level it be damaged. It's only sending very low watts to maintain set temperature. When take a hit in TC it will increase wattage needed to stay at the set temperature.
The problem with cursing in wattage mode is to be safe you have to set wattage low. Sure the first hit might be ok. After that the lower wattage is not enough to allow another good hits till the heat builds up again. I don't see you really getting the best hits using it this way.
If set the wattage higher to compensate you risk unit heating up causing possible damage. There no real temperature control in most mods in wattage mode. So it going sit there getting hotter and hotter.
Once you start using it without having the wattage increasing you will use up the extra heat. Depending on draw speed and amount of hits the vapor will begin to feel cooler. So you be tempted to bump up wattage.
I can see this leading to problems. I tend to get sidetracked when medicating. Could see myself setting it down in cruise mode and forgetting it was on. I see it has a built in timer does it have safety cutoff? Or could someone set it to something crazy like 30 mins?
Either way I see no real benefits in using it locked into a constant on cycle in wattage mode. Really with things up in the air with RBT going baby mine. As far as I know the sprinter heater isn't user serviceable. Want keep her around as long as possible.
Now in TC mode is where I would use cruise if I had it. Be much easier with the the orbiter if didn't need press fire button.
Sad day reading the email and Ryan's rant. I had just sent in my spare milaana for glass repair. Don't really need 2. So think may find a new home for her and buy a Milaana 2. Was hoping on the splinter Z being my next purchase but not sure where that project stands now?
Really hoping Ryan finds away to keep the business going. Personally I love the handcrafted nature of his products. But do understand the dilemma that would cause with making a living.
Regardless of how this turns out I do wish him the very best. I really enjoyed using his vaporizer over many years. Still kicking myself for not getting a Zoin when they where available
Every interaction I have had with Ryan has been good. Sometimes a little delayed. But he always ended up answering my question and doing any repairs I have needed.
Thanks I need to swing by his site and check out the XL8R and the milaana 2.0 before there gone.
Using the Splinter in Wattage mode is exactly the same as using a Milaana except that you've specified what wattage the mod box sends to the heater. Using cruise mode is exactly the same as holding down the button, except that it shuts down when the limit is reached. No doubt you can damage your Splinter by setting the wattage too high and/or the time limit too long, but used with sane settings there is no risk. 30W for 30 seconds is extremely common for me.
I'm not trying to persuade you to change your usage. What I am trying to do is remove some of the confusion around what potential there is for damage if you run the heater for 30 seconds at any reasonable wattage setting.
HerbieVonVapster
Well-Known Member
Totally agree. When I commented wasn't really wasn't directed at you're 30 seconds cutoff. That is not that far off from the 20 second cutoff I use in wattage. When I think about cruise i'm thinking of comments I read about people going 4-5 mins in cruise mode.
That was more along the lines of where I'm worried about damage happening. When people use this device in a session type cruise mode for mins on end. In wattage mode I feel it's a very bad ideal.
SloJimFizz
Unknown Member
My cruise mode is set to two minutes, and I was shutting it down like a minute in, maybe 1:20.
But as @KeroZen said, the low 19 watts is just getting the heater heated up, then cooled off by my draws. Letting it sit, or getting distracted, and this thing just keeps getting hotter and hotter. A long ass cruise in wattage, or even an accidental extended press of the fire button with no set cut off time could get ugly.
Back to mostly on demand,, and 4 clicks to activate cruise for me, so it's not so easy to activate. 30 second cut off on the fire button may be put into play too.
But as @KeroZen said, the low 19 watts is just getting the heater heated up, then cooled off by my draws. Letting it sit, or getting distracted, and this thing just keeps getting hotter and hotter. A long ass cruise in wattage, or even an accidental extended press of the fire button with no set cut off time could get ugly.
Back to mostly on demand,, and 4 clicks to activate cruise for me, so it's not so easy to activate. 30 second cut off on the fire button may be put into play too.
Vapefiend will have some in the next week or so, they ship in Europe..
HerbieVonVapster
Well-Known Member
Here's a couple links you might find helpful
What box mod are you using / recommending for on-demand convection 510 vapes?
TC Box Mods Firmware Discussions and Customizing
I have to ask if you can get a reply why cant I? I have been trying for 2 weeks to get confirmation that the pre order I payed for has actually been shipped or not! Ive tryed every email address I have ever received anything from rbt on and also the website contact me form and still no joy...
I have been very patient up till now but not knowing if my order is in the post or still sitting on his desk is killing me.
I understand he is a very smart inventor but it doesn't take the best business brain to understand if you just dont reply to paying customers or let them know the product they payed for is en route its not the best way to encorage more business to come through the door. Even if you have the best product on the market!
Please can someone who Ryan will reply to try to find out what is going on please...
theborn
Active Member
Hit up one of the mods on the subreddit: https://www.reddit.com/r/rastabuddhatao/ They seem to be in contact with him. Hope that helps.
cloudsosmoke
Well-Known Member
rants on Ryan’s website
FTA
The good news in all of this is that without the huge time required to manufacture vaporizers, RBT resources can be directed to the front end of the business to support current sales, shipments and repair work. This will improve the customer service end of the business that really needs the attention.
So, with that the short term plan is to ship all orders, complete all warranty returns (no charge to say thanks for your patience) and get caught up on emails and CS issues that are lingering. If we owe you anything please bug us and we will be sure to eventually take care of you. Please be patient and know that I am one man doing my best to make a big shift in the business in order to keep RBT a viable a full time endeavor rather than throttle it down to a part time hobby.
..so he’s now working on it
Splinter is excellent vape
FTA
The good news in all of this is that without the huge time required to manufacture vaporizers, RBT resources can be directed to the front end of the business to support current sales, shipments and repair work. This will improve the customer service end of the business that really needs the attention.
So, with that the short term plan is to ship all orders, complete all warranty returns (no charge to say thanks for your patience) and get caught up on emails and CS issues that are lingering. If we owe you anything please bug us and we will be sure to eventually take care of you. Please be patient and know that I am one man doing my best to make a big shift in the business in order to keep RBT a viable a full time endeavor rather than throttle it down to a part time hobby.
..so he’s now working on it
Splinter is excellent vape
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