Discontinued The Splinter by RBT

[ray_b]

Get a nicer heat sink, a stainless steel Kepler or the like.

Where are you finding the nicer ones? I tried four local b&m vape shops before resorting to Fasttech.

 

[potenthits]

Where are you finding the nicer ones? I tried four local b&m vape shops before resorting to Fasttech.

Your local stores didn't have any decent ones? eBay from a trusted seller that has specifications listed might be your best bet. I will agree the the quality is highly variable, so definitely don't go with the flashy colorful ones. Get a stainless steel heat sink.

 

[ray_b]

Your local stores didn't have any decent ones?

Three of them didn't know what I was talking about even with a pic on my phone, large US city. I'll check eBay next time.

 

[Hippie]

Have a good look at the centre pin when choosing a heat sink
Most of them are adjustable in some way but of coarse some are better than others at doing that.
A bad connection will cause the mod to read the resistance wrong and give inconsistent results at best.

This is why I buy from sites like fasttech that have reviews with real pictures and discussion areas as people will post about any issues they're having and usually the community will respond with solutions or a better product.

Check the review pictures of the heatsink installed in the review section too, if there are any, as some of them don't sit flush with both the atomiser and the mod which may work well for heat insulation purposes but not so much so for the purpose of strengthening the 510 connection.

 

[Lazy Lighting]

With the dna75c you can also increase the "boost" which speeds up the heat up time.

 

[pakalolo]

Those settings will be automatically set by the mod in wattage mode. Press button for 5 seconds, then draw very slowly for 10 seconds to heat up the glass, then draw tightly for 10 seconds to get your first hit.

Edit: also I would use 40 watts for ~400 degrees.

I don't know enough about mods to say how broadly this applies, but the resistance measured by my mod box was horribly wrong. It read .245, which lit the coil up like a torch inside 3-4 seconds. Based on reports here I dropped it to .235, which was still too high, so I kept lowering it until I found that .230 gave me results at 25W that were similar to setting 160°C (320°F) on other devices with temperature control.

Basically, I would try changing the resistance value for the mod. If it is too cool, like @BigJr48 is reporting, then I would raise the resistance .002 at a time until it started to work. I'm sure there's an upper limit beyond which you'd have to conclude that the problem is the Splinter, but I can't say how high that would be.

My tests with a heat sink (bought off amazon) on the splinter was that the resistance measure started bouncing all over the place.

This is what will happen with a bad connection.

 

[oddjobold]

I currently have one of the pre-order splinters. In the post is a new splinter and a PAM. Hopefully i can do some measurements, and test some stems for size. Ill post my findings

 

[AJS]

Been using my Splinter on TC cruise mode at 430. I pack my bowl, double click to cruise, screw the cap back on my grinder and by the time I get to the hit everything is warmed up and ready. Massive clouds starting within seconds. Fine grind. The Splinter handles a fine grind well because of how even the vaping is. I stay at 430 cuz it's great clouds from the start with nice flavor, then flavor becomes more neutral. No bad flavors at all on this temp. Finishing a bowl in 3 massive rips with a nice even brown. Exactly what I want in a vape, done better than I could expect in a vape.

 

[cybrguy]

Trying to get me to switch back to the FJ firmware, eh? I see you there @AJS. Maybe it IS time to give it another shot...

 

[cybrguy]

So, I have had the Splinter for a week now and I am getting in to some patterns. I find if I am looking to get altered right now I just go to wattage mode, start at 20w for flavor (or skip it) and go to 25 for a few and than 30w to finish the stem inside of 2 or 3 minutes. I find wattage mode reliable and 'understandable" meaning it works how I would expect it to.

If I have more time or want to play I go to temperature mode and play around with settings and try different things. I sometimes find the Splinter getting warmer than I am comfortable with (tho I don't think I'm hurting it) and often turn it off to cool. I HAVE learned that a single click usually takes me out of cruise, for example, and shutting it down isn't really necessary, but it is still new and I am protective of it. I imagine over a few weeks I should get the hang of this, but I have found myself going back in this thread and rereading to see if I have missed any good suggestions.

If any of you have noticed a like on an older post that may be from my rereading the threads...

 

[AJS]

25 for a few and than 30w to finish the stem inside of 2 or 3 minutes. I find wattage mode reliable and 'understandable" meaning it works how I would expect it to.

Completely relate.

I imagine over a few weeks I should get the hang of this, but I have found myself going back in this thread and rereading to see if I have missed any good suggestions.

Cruise mode through water. If starting on medium temp preheat a long time, around 10-15 seconds. I never notice a glow in temp mode even at that long of a preheat. Just from a cold start. Slow draw to start, once vapor forms can speed it up. Draw forever until you explode. Vapor never thins out, just keeps going til bowl is done.

I'm still finding that 430 or so 10-15 second preheat superip extremely enjoyable through water. Dry I'm almost always on Wattage.

 

[SloJimFizz]

Hello All,
Been having a blast with my Splinter this week on the Steam Engine mod.
Awesome mod that is perfect for me from 25-34 watts.
After further review, I may have been a bit hasty with some of my observations on Temp control.

If you're setting "maximum temperature" you're not in Kansas (wattage mode) any more.

That's Evolvs patented maximum temp cut off in power mode. So still in watts with back up of a max temp.
I have been messing with escribe today, and indeed am now getting good results in Temp Control mode.

The Splinter is not being recognized as a Temperature-Sensing coil by DNA75.
All my enjoyment was coming from having the max power set to 32 watts on the different profiles.
Discovered it by trying to lower my temp in tc mode for terpy pulls, but even down to 280f was getting clouds.
So I switched over to power mode, and tried to adjust the Maximum Temp Cutoff feature down, again, down around 280f it was pumping clouds.
Went to Device Monitor to confirm no atty temp being measured.

With the dna75c you can also increase the "boost" which speeds up the heat up time.

I can set that up too, but it is not actually happening on mine.
Question for those with the DNA75C, on your temp control setting, when you press the fire button on your mod, what shows on the screen?
Also, in the Device Monitor, is your Temperature shown as you take a draw, in the line between Power-Set and Temperature set?

@AJS is that warm up time needed in power mode? Or just TC?

 

[sNc]

Soooo I'm still getting to grips with my Splinter, was running it on a Vaporesso Swag mod with a 510 adaptor to clear the battery cap. I found it almost felt underpowered but was finding my sweet spot around 22w.

I got the chance of a bargain mod buy and picked up an Asmodus Minikin 2 180w mod (dual battery)
Im finding with the new mod set up that my bowl is getting a hotspot or slightly scorching in the middle? I'm not sure if I'm over packing the screen or if it's the mod/power?

Also on another note- I'm not looking to try TC mode until I'm fully happy with wattage set up on the new device, but with my mod if you what to set TC mode it will ask what material the coil is? So it can set accordingly..what metal is the Zion heater material made from?

Any input much appreciated.

 

[KeroZen]

SS. 304 or 316, Ryan didn't specify.

 

[cybrguy]

Two questions. Should I be setting the coil type to SS with Splinter? And what does the "TUBO" header reflect in settings? I assume it is ideal setting for the Tubo (fj firmware is written for it) but what are those settings?

 

[Alegre]

Got too medicated playing with the nano last night. ......tonight it will be all about my new toy, splinter!

 

[SloJimFizz]

Got too mediated paying with the nano lat night. ......tonight it will be all about my new toy, splinter!

Sweet combo right there.
That Splinter will fit perfectly in the stash spot of the new walnut Nano stand.

 

[Alegre]

Sweet combo right there.
That Splinter will fit perfectly in the stash spot of the new walnut Nano stand.

Thank you!

I love walnut......will definitely check that stand out!

 

[Hippie]

When it asks you what material the coil is, it is asking you which preset TCR value you want to use.
I think you want to be in the region of about 175 like the Tubo

I'm still tinkering with a decidedly dodgy selection of mods from my mod retirement shelf to run funkyjunky's firmware 'til my new rx2/3 arrives but so far I'm getting reasonable results cruising at about TCR175 30W 190 degrees max or riding the button when it starts to bite in wattage mode set to 27w with a 5 second preheat per draw and an initial 10 second preheat from cold.

 

[AJS]

@AJS is that warm up time needed in power mode? Or just TC?

I just do it in TC cuz I feel like there is no reason not to. I just do it as I screw my grinder back together. In wattage mode a 10-15 second preheat even on 29 watts would be pretty intense.

 

[Summer]

I just do it in TC

Now I'm ready to learn about more than just wattage mode. OK, what does TC specifically mean? TC'R' or a SS setting like 316 or just one of the metal setting? Please respond in baby steps.

Just the 1st 4 line of this: *No, I'm no too whacked out.

 

[Lholding26]

My Milaana stems do not fit my splinter. Frustrating.

Where the heck can i find a WPA that will fit the splinter. So much dispute between what size joint. More frustrating.

 

[Lazy Lighting]

My Milaana stems do not fit my splinter. Frustrating.

Where the heck can i find a WPA that will fit the splinter. So much dispute between what size joint. More frustrating.

420edc has a gong that will fit. I have been using it, fits perfectly.

 

[Lholding26]

420edc has a gong that will fit. I have been using it, fits perfectly.

Thank you! Ill take a look at it now.

My Splinter was part of the batch that was not burned off before they were sent out. Anyone know what the Joint size would be?

Looking for longer stems/gong adapter. This thing is rapeing my tongue

 

[cybrguy]

I can not see the future, but as of now I have not seen or heard confirmation that there even exists a 19mm joint. My joints are 22mm.

Just the 1st 4 line of this: *No, I'm no too whacked out.

Thanks for the ear worm, Summer.

Is supercalifragilisticexpialidocias next?

(Because I was afraid to speak when I was just a lad...)