Discontinued The Splinter by RBT

[cybrguy]

Let me see if I can help. Based on nothing more than a hunch I think the US-China tariff shit is going to hit the fan sooner rather than later and e-cig products are on the list of new tariffs. I'm going to be buying a couple more box mods before the prices start to rise. I'm absolutely buying another Charon Mini, it's such a great mod, almost effortless to use. I was checking out the VooPoo Drag at Element Vape and the silver frame models have dropped to $37, I doubt I'll be able to resist.

Sure. Where were YOU when I was deciding to get the RX 2/3?

That sure is a pretty stem...

 

[SloJimFizz]

Hey that's a good looking MP you got yourself there. Can you tell me where you got it?

That sure is a pretty stem...

I get told that a lot.

That one is made by @Alan ,the maker of the I Heat and Heat Island.
I like the durability and looks of the wood stems, but much prefer the glass stems for the flaves.

 

[cybrguy]

I was out to dinner the other night with a friend, and I overheard someone make a comment about her stems, and I looked over to see if she had her vape out... Nope.

 

[Lholding26]

This thing make anyone elses tongue tingly/feel weird?

Could be 100% unrelated to the splinter. But just want to ask the community.

 

[cybrguy]

If your vape is working, this or any vape, you will get warm to very hot air from the mouthpiece. If you let that stream hit your tongue directly, and especially if you stay on the same spot, you can certainly get tingling or even burning if you allow too much heat. The heat is one of the reasons I like to go though water when at home.

 

[BigJr48]

Received my Steam Engine mod

Beautiful Looking Steam Engine!!!

 

[AJS]

Been using the Haze Square lately but whipped out the Splinter cuz it's way more convenient. Also used a super fine grind which I normally don't do and holy shit the clouds were absolute massive. 435 cruise mode. Insane!

 

[Alegre]

I should be getting mine on Thursday and I'm super stoked about it!

I know nearly nothing about box mods. I have an evic vtwo mini so I need to figure it out in two days! Lol

 

[BigJr48]

@Alegre Don't feel bad, I bought a Smok G-Priv for my Splinters and they're all sitting around gathering dust. I just couldn't figure out how to use the mod, everyone makes it look so simple but I've never used a mod so I find it a bit complicating.

 

[almost there]

@Alegre Don't feel bad, I bought a Smok G-Priv for my Splinters and they're all sitting around gathering dust. I just couldn't figure out how to use the mod, everyone makes it look so simple but I've never used a mod so I find it a bit complicating.

it really doesn't have to go beyond going up and down with the wattage and pressing the trigger. I never gotten comfortable enough to try temp control, wattage mode worked fine enough for me

 

[BigJr48]

it really doesn't have to go beyond going up and down with the wattage and pressing the trigger. I never gotten comfortable enough to try temp control, wattage mode worked fine enough for me

How about coil settings and ohms? At first tried it on 25 watts no vape went up to 30 watts still no vape ended up with a irritated throat, so I boxed everything back up.

 

[potenthits]

How about coil settings and ohms? At first tried it on 25 watts no vape went up to 30 watts still no vape ended up with a irritated throat, so I boxed everything back up.

Those settings will be automatically set by the mod in wattage mode. Press button for 5 seconds, then draw very slowly for 10 seconds to heat up the glass, then draw tightly for 10 seconds to get your first hit.

Edit: also I would use 40 watts for ~400 degrees.

 

[almost there]

How about coil settings and ohms? At first tried it on 25 watts no vape went up to 30 watts still no vape ended up with a irritated throat, so I boxed everything back up.

both my therion and tesla punk is on wattage mode as soon as it's on, the resting coil resistance is displayed but I don't bother with that besides just taking note what the number is. Going dry on the therion I was selecting 28-32 watts, on the tesla I had to go 30 or 32 watts to get any results but by then the splinter was already acting funny. Don't have enough experience to say why you are getting dry hits, my only experience with dry hits usually end in me needing to RMA something

 

[scion34]

I’m getting such great hits at 25.5 watts that I have no interest in pursuing TC with the Splinter. Haven’t charred a load since one of the first uses at a higher wattage; just consistent, even toasting with great flavor and nice clouds. Way less irritating to the throat than the Milaana as well, imo.

 

[analytika]

Right out of the box, in wattage mode worked flawlessly. After reading the directions, I set the max temp setting @ 425° F ... I have no need for replay, preheat, or cruise for that matter

If you're setting "maximum temperature" you're not in Kansas (wattage mode) any more.

 

[SloJimFizz]

If you're setting "maximum temperature" you're not in Kansas (wattage mode) any more.

That's Evolvs patented maximum temp cut off in power mode. So still in watts with back up of a max temp.
I have been messing with escribe today, and indeed am now getting good results in Temp Control mode. Escribe is the shit.
I mainly went into it to set different wattages, 6.2 for Rosen carts and 32.5 for the Splinter and I-Heat, so I don't have to scroll down the temp each time. But after making a few adjustments, lowering the power on the Nickel TCR setting down to 32, this thing does great Temp control.
I'll need another mod soon, lost my evic mini. So my next will have the DNA 75C to check out the replay action.

 

[cybrguy]

I'll need another mod soon, lost my evic mini. So my next will have the DNA 75C to check out the replay action.

Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh... Ahem... I mean that is what I am trying to avoid. I know its gonna happen eventually but I'm gonna fight it. Dukes up.

 

[SloJimFizz]

Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh... Ahem... I mean that is what I am trying to avoid. I know its gonna happen eventually but I'm gonna fight it. Dukes up.

I need one for the Splinter, and one for the I-heat to lessen chances of cross threading. Woe is me, I know.

 

[cybrguy]

I haven't taken my Splinter out of the house yet, but I imagine when I do I'm gonna want to take it off the mod to make it more manageable. Do y'all recommend getting a heat sink to keep attached to the Splinter to avoid potential threading issues? If so, what size do you recommend?

 

[analytika]

I haven't taken my Splinter out of the house yet, but I imagine when I do I'm gonna want to take it off the mod to make it more manageable. Do y'all recommend getting a heat sink to keep attached to the Splinter to avoid potential threading issues? If so, what size do you recommend?

My tests with a heat sink (bought off amazon) on the splinter was that the resistance measure started bouncing all over the place.

 

[potenthits]

I haven't taken my Splinter out of the house yet, but I imagine when I do I'm gonna want to take it off the mod to make it more manageable. Do y'all recommend getting a heat sink to keep attached to the Splinter to avoid potential threading issues? If so, what size do you recommend?

I use one 24mm

 

[Easywider]

Just got this beauty in the mail, did a burn off and just finished my fist stem. This is my first RBT experience I have no idea what I'm doing but I like the results. Nice tasty vapour from the first draw to the last. I have mine on a Smoant Cylon @ 30W doing 5 second preheat and pulsing button as needed during my draw.

Back to the lab !

 

[ray_b]

I haven't taken my Splinter out of the house yet, but I imagine when I do I'm gonna want to take it off the mod to make it more manageable. Do y'all recommend getting a heat sink to keep attached to the Splinter to avoid potential threading issues? If so, what size do you recommend?

What are you trying to protect, the Splinter or the box mod? I know some here use a heat sink to protect the 510 connection on the Splinter due to reports of the body of the atty separating from the 510 portion and spinning freely. My opinion on this is that if my Splinter has this problem I'll send it RBT for repair.

The question if the 510 on your box mod needs protection is solely dependent on what mod you're using. Some mods have shitty 510s but not all of them, I seem to have lucked out and all of my mods have decent 510s, even the budget models. As I've noted elsewhere on FC I frequently change the atty on my box mods, sometimes several times a day. I use my mods as I normally would and if a mod has a bad 510 it will fail at some point and I'll replace it with something better.

I've purchased several heat sinks from Fasttech and they are highly variable in quality. I've had the same problem noted by @analytika with unstable resistance readings with one of them. On another heat sink I was trying to adjust the brass screw in the bottom using a properly fitting hollow ground screwdriver. The top of the screw sheared when I applied pressure rendering it useless.

Given the questionable quality of the heat sinks I've seen I'm concerned that one will damage my atty or mod or both. I'd rather take my chances without one.

 

[cybrguy]

What are you trying to protect, the Splinter or the box mod? I know some here use a heat sink to protect the 510 connection on the Splinter due to reports of the body of the atty separating from the 510 portion and spinning freely. My opinion on this is that if my Splinter has this problem I'll send it RBT for repair.

My only thought is to protect the Splinter. I don't really care about the mod, part of why I bought a (relatively) cheap one. Easy enough to replace.
Even tho I am in the US I would still like to avoid having to send the Splinter back for repair if I can help it and the reports of the 510 getting loose are my concern. I will go out of my way to protect it, and if a heat sink helps I would do that gladly as they are cheap.

 

[potenthits]

My only thought is to protect the Splinter. I don't really care about the mod, part of why I bought a (relatively) cheap one. Easy enough to replace.
Even tho I am in the US I would still like to avoid having to send the Splinter back for repair if I can help it and the reports of the 510 getting loose are my concern. I will go out of my way to protect it, and if a heat sink helps I would do that gladly as they are cheap.

Get a nicer heat sink, a stainless steel Kepler or the like.