The "Project" DIY Herbal Vaporizer

[Pipes]

I sometimes see 'weak battery' pop up on the display even tho batt is fully charged. Goes away pretty quickly. Is it just the load on the battery and kinda how it works?

Does anyone know if any other stems fit this and work safely? I tried my shorty air stem and it was tight, didn't really want to stretch it out. Saw the enano fits but I don't have one of those. Was curious if any of the flowermates fit directly. Saw a three pack with silicone, glass, and another mp and thought, damn, those would work nicely if they fit. @Pipes stem works really good, wish it was slightly shorter for stealth missions.

Any way the wooden sleeve could be slightly longer to accommodate more o-rings so the stem was a bit more secure? Doesn't really bother me at all, just wondering if it could be a bit tighter so it won't separate in my pocket.

Really amazing work @Pipes.
Thanks you!!

Great news, Glad your liking it. If your battery is giving warnings during use it means it's having a hard time delivering. The one thing about using the single cell mod it you must use reasonable batteries. 30 amp drain is good like the Sony VCT4s. My older batteries start to give this display and I release and re-engage the button to restart. The 2 cell mods will be better in this area. Depends on how much the size is important to you.
The outer wooden sleeve's tightness is slightly different between units where some do fit tighter then others. Part of my learning curve with making these pieces and working with the lathe. Remember though, this is the fun part and can be swapped out with whatever folks can come up with. For $4.50 you can get a 3' length of doweling which can inspire longer, tighter or wider fits. The doweling I used is made from Popular in case anyone was wondering the wood type. If making for personal use, some serious time and care can be put into it and come up with the perfect fit for you. I've been using the ones in the back roll second in. (red topped) BTW, the Air stem should fit fine but maybe tight.
Picture from a Canadian Tire store.

@nondarb , good answers.

GearBest have a US warehouse. Price has gone up since I last checked though.

Are we sure the fasttech ones are genuine? On the page for the two cells version they say that they removed the security verification stickers "on purpose"... I wonder what purpose that is?

I have bought 2 from Fastech, well actually 3 but still waiting on the third. First was genuine and did state the sticker was removed. Could update firmware without problem. The second was a unit which I had my misgivings about as it was a few bucks cheaper but admittedly did not say "Authentic". It has quite a few drawbacks like will not upgrade and actually lowest resistance is .1 and not .05 ohm. No TCR or SS modes. Usable for Ti wire only.
Not Authentic
Authentic

 

[tepictoton]

Mailman had little package for me.

Cuboid is ready to use with it, although I still have some questions.

How does one set the tcr? Maybe this feature is only available after updating the cuboid, something I have not done yet.

So I'm one quick overview :
What temp seems to be preferred: as I have read here, either around 520f or 255c.

The top wattage should be set at?

What about this tcr? Or tcm, sorry too much traductions for me (Dutch from origin, speaking Spanish for last two years, and English is mixed in...)

A short period of pre-heating? And what about draw speed.? Cause I do feel like I have a beast in my hands and combustion seems to be lurking around the corner.

Hope I do not come off like lazy, but I did try the search function and reading trough these pages again, but I am a ecig noob as I guess many of us treating onto this new ground are.

Could have send a PM to @Pipes but it might be better to get all this info out in the open.

Just tested air Gong compatibility, and I can reply positive to that. Someone looking for a shorter mouthpiece, check them out. I have always used my solo and air with the Gong as dry mouthpiece and love it. It also seems to make the chamber smaller, might help with hot spots?

 

[Pipes]

Sounds like someone's excited. LOL. See Instruction Sheet.
Thanks for checking in. Have fun!

 

[E0x]

@nondarb show me you steam please.

thanks

 

[tepictoton]

Oepssss. Should have found that myself...

 

[nondarb]

steam

?

 

[E0x]

@nondarb perfect i order 2 e-nano stem to try, i too follow you advice and find a way to make the chamber 14mm deep , using arizer q elb ( basket screen ) and i think i find a winner , still you get hot spot but much less , very much ( in my opinion )

here is pic of the herb without stiring in any moment o rotate the mouthpiece in any moment:

here is more pic of the setup using the original @Pipes wood mouthpiece and using the Flowermate mini mouthpiece too which fit but i not try it yet ( after i finish this post i will try it ) :

 

[PPN]

I'm beginning crazy to wait for my Evic mini , I didn't tested my "Project" cause I don't want to take the risk to "red glow" the coil or combust. And I noticed pipes recommands to run it only in TC mode so i decided to follow his advice. The end of the wait is very close....

 

[tepictoton]

You will be pleased...

I have been having a blast with this little beast. Draw speed does play a huge role. And yes, setting the tcr did make my previous combustion accidents disappear.

Gave been using it with my solo /air Gong and notice it makes the bowl a bit smaller and definitely helps with hot spots it seems.

Is there no way to integrate a plate between the coil and the chamber that acts like a vortex inducer.

What I am thinking of is a disc. Like the ones used in bubblers mostly with a honeycomb at the bottom and the a disc with side way slits in it making the water turn into a vortex motion. This disc can be made very small and thin I believe. Furthermore it would probably restrict the air flow a bit, which might actually lead to better efficiency?

 

[nondarb]

You will be pleased...

I have been having a blast with this little beast. Draw speed does play a huge role. And yes, setting the tcr did make my previous combustion accidents disappear.

Gave been using it with my solo /air Gong and notice it makes the bowl a bit smaller and definitely helps with hot spots it seems.

Is there no way to integrate a plate between the coil and the chamber that acts like a vortex inducer.

What I am thinking of is a disc. Like the ones used in bubblers mostly with a honeycomb at the bottom and the a disc with side way slits in it making the water turn into a vortex motion. This disc can be made very small and thin I believe. Furthermore it would probably restrict the air flow a bit, which might actually lead to better efficiency?

You aren't going to be able to vortex in such a small diameter. There's a considerably larger RDA called the aromarizer thats meant to vortex that doesn't due to its size. I do think however that staggering the air intake holes a la' Triihouse "turbulence" holes to tumble the air as it passes through the load would make for more even heat distribution. Reducing airflow sounds like a bad idea imo, if anything I feel it could use another hole (at least for WP usage).

 

[PPN]

I received my Evic but I have difficulties, is it normal the ohm is 0.52?
I tried at 0.52 and 450 TCR and the coil was glowing red...instructions told us the resistance might to be 0.3 and +,..

How to lock the atty? for the resistance it's mentionned in the user guide...

Sorry I'm a total noob about mods...

Did you take off the wood shield before to screw the atty on the mod? when I let it I'm not sure the atty is tight enough in the mods.

 

[E0x]

setting intrusction here and in the page 1 one of this thread too:
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1aqkER6JlT1a2u85ouwXOmKQQ2NQ7K9T2PQrniBiYmLA/pub

 

[Pipes]

Yes, the ohms is correct. You need to familiarize yourself with the EVic some. Locking the ohms is in the menu you get by pressing the fire button 3 times consecutively. Navigate to the resistance field and activate the little lock icon. TCR should be around 145.
You'll get it.
If you want to fit the unit tight to the mod then removing the outer shield is needed. I find the O ring friction is enough to secure it.
Have fun!

 

[nondarb]

New hack. Some of the folks in the bulli thread (and I think Pipes?) own the kayfun mini 2.1, I recently received two to experiment with my own builds on and realized the tank is the same diameter as the nano stems.. So in essense its an adjustable length stem with a 510 driptip. Insert a basket screen and its extremely versatile and appears considerably more "stealth" than the other stems. It works very well.

Its also a decent deck to build your own diy 510 vape on.

Did you take off the wood shield before to screw the atty on the mod? when I let it I'm not sure the atty is tight enough in the mods

I installed a heatsink to negate the need to pop off the wooden sleeve each time. It adds some bulk however. I set my own tcr to 130 now, at 600f I get a very faint pulsing glow. I stay around 550-580.

 

[PPN]

Ok, my coil is 0.52-0.53 ohm, when I set the temp at 450 it is red glowing really fast, so I turn the temp down until it was not glowing, now I use it at 250. but my results are mitiged.

The main temperature number is it the TCR?

I read the instructions sheet.

 

[Pipes]

I think your missing the programmable M1, M2, M2 settings which are programmed with the TCR number you enter. The TCR number is the coefficient used to determine the temperature pending the type metal being used for the element. Nothing to do with the temperature number.
To program the M1 memory location. Turn off device by clicking 5 times consecutive. Now hold the up button and fire button simultaneously until screen goes to TCR program mode. Navigate to the M1 location and change that number to 145. Repeated fire button pressing will exit the program mode. Now click the fire 3 times and select M1 as the device mode. Make sure your at room temp and lock the ohms as stated before. Now set your temperature to 500 or so.
Now if you got the 60 watt VTC mini, you will need to update the firmware from the joyetech.com site.
Good luck and hopefully your good to go.?

 

[dilvish]

just got my project earlier today, and it works pretty well! I'm still figuring it out for sure, but it definitely got me baked without any serious charring incidents. i set my tcr to 145 and tried 490f-530f for a while but gota little bit of charring, and as of right now i'm finding i get great results on ss316 mode on my cuboid at 420f-440f with a pretty slow draw.
just my first impressions. i have a lot of experimenting to do. thanks a lot pipes, this thing is too cool!

 

[PPN]

I think your missing the programmable M1, M2, M2 settings which are programmed with the TCR number you enter. The TCR number is the coefficient used to determine the temperature pending the type metal being used for the element. Nothing to do with the temperature number.
To program the M1 memory location. Turn off device by clicking 5 times consecutive. Now hold the up button and fire button simultaneously until screen goes to TCR program mode. Navigate to the M1 location and change that number to 145. Repeated fire button pressing will exit the program mode. Now click the fire 3 times and select M1 as the device mode. Make sure your at room temp and lock the ohms as stated before. Now set your temperature to 500 or so.
Now if you got the 60 watt VTC mini, you will need to update the firmware from the joyetech.com site.
Good luck and hopefully your good to go.?

Great, it's another beast now!
edit: Ok, i get better hits and taste. I get the "weak battery" issue, the battery is a Samsung 29E (Storm replacement battery), Do you think I need a better one? (I got a brand new samsung 30B-3000mah).

 

[Pipes]

I do not believe those are high drain cells. Might get it to work by pulsing the fire button but hard on the cells when not designed for the load.

just got my project earlier today, and it works pretty well! I'm still figuring it out for sure, but it definitely got me baked without any serious charring incidents. i set my tcr to 145 and tried 490f-530f for a while but gota little bit of charring, and as of right now i'm finding i get great results on ss316 mode on my cuboid at 420f-440f with a pretty slow draw.
just my first impressions. i have a lot of experimenting to do. thanks a lot pipes, this thing is too cool!

You got me wondering about using in ss316 mode and getting lots of heat. Should not be. By coincidence, I received my second VTC mini, which I had ordered for my ejuice, and made a ss winding and what did I find, it was away too hot. I started comparing to my older unit which worked well with ss and get the expected results, and found the new unit had firmware version 3.00 whereas I had updated my older unit to 3.01. Therefore, my conclusion is version 3.00 had a bad coefficient set for ss setting and was corrected in version 3.01. Found updating the new unit made it perform the same as older unit. Guessing the Cuboid is the same deal.

 

[PPN]

Pack of 4 Sony VTC4 ordered on Gearbest!

edit: after re-reading the instructions I realized I used the Ti element method to start...I thought there was 2 ways to achieve to set my Project. Now i understood it came with a SS element, not a Ti one....

 

[Pipes]

A good choice, the VTC4s do the job nicely. Your in for a good wait though. They come via a slow boat that site sees around Greenland. Honestly, upwards of a couple months is not un-usual. To tide you over, but a couple more bucks, you can pick up a couple from Amazon and have in a few days. I keep ahead of the game when it comes to batteries because of my dual need being an ecig user. They store well if you don't charge them. When you receive they "should" have a 60-70% storage charge. So no worries about them "expiring". Remember to charge them up full and a couple extra hours beyond for the first charge before you use.
Just my .

 

[PPN]

Thanks but I can't find any Amazon seller shipping to Fance.... maybe somebody can post a link...

Or I'll wait for a while....I decided to stop to use my Samsung since it's not designed for and since I'm not totally happy about the results.

 

[E0x]

I do not believe those are high drain cells. Might get it to work by pulsing the fire button but hard on the cells when not designed for the load.

You got me wondering about using in ss316 mode and getting lots of heat. Should not be. By coincidence, I received my second VTC mini, which I had ordered for my ejuice, and made a ss winding and what did I find, it was away too hot. I started comparing to my older unit which worked well with ss and get the expected results, and found the new unit had firmware version 3.00 whereas I had updated my older unit to 3.01. Therefore, my conclusion is version 3.00 had a bad coefficient set for ss setting and was corrected in version 3.01. Found updating the new unit made it perform the same as older unit. Guessing the Cuboid is the same deal.

so you are saying that the new firmware and SS316 mode work well with the project ?

 

[Pipes]

The firmware version 3.0 appears to have a bug for SS316 mode as it runs away too hot. Found this out when trying to get my ecig atomizer working on it. The "internal" setting for SS316 or preset TCR is not correct. This bug allowed users to use the Project in SS316 mode and this is NOT correct. The newest version 3.01 gets things right again.
To use this Project with an SS316 wrap, manual TCR numbers should need to be used. 145 is a good starting number. Shaving off this is better if you can. The lower the number the less hot it will get at the higher temp settings. Ideally, getting a faint glow at the max 600F setting is best.
A little confusing, I know. Hope this now makes more sense?

 

[E0x]

yes i already know all of this , the only parts i get confused was the one you mention the bug early in post and was just more curiosity that anything because right now the set at 145 tcr is working perfect i think , right now i have my setting at 225 celcius with the tcr 145 and 40 watts and i don't change the temp , i control everything with the draw speed , more cloud very slow draw , less dense cloud fast draw.