The "Project" DIY Herbal Vaporizer
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had a long fun night of testing coil building and vaping (super fun for the girlfriend lol) anyway i got a couple of nice builds and they did the same thing , you can session then as soon as the device goes cold if you try again it will kick straight to watts as soon as it reaches set temp, pull the batteries and its back with the same locked ohm working fine, fuck knows but im thinking avoid the Ikonn 220
Did you try changing the TCR with extreme changes? Like 50 or so. Really sounds like the Mod thinks it's not TC material and assumes it's Kanthal.
Keep in mind that lowering the TCR will cause you to go higher in temperature values to achieve vapor. You are trying to go low enough to stop the Mod from mis-interpreting the material, but high enough that you can get good vapor under the 600 degree max.
All else false, run in watts adjusted to your technique. If you're a slow sipper, around 15 W, or up to 25 W if drawing faster. The coil distance to herb comes into more obvious play too.
Keep in mind that lowering the TCR will cause you to go higher in temperature values to achieve vapor. You are trying to go low enough to stop the Mod from mis-interpreting the material, but high enough that you can get good vapor under the 600 degree max.
All else false, run in watts adjusted to your technique. If you're a slow sipper, around 15 W, or up to 25 W if drawing faster. The coil distance to herb comes into more obvious play too.
Did you try changing the TCR with extreme changes? Like 50 or so. Really sounds like the Mod thinks it's not TC material and assumes it's Kanthal.
Keep in mind that lowering the TCR will cause you to go higher in temperature values to achieve vapor. You are trying to go low enough to stop the Mod from mis-interpreting the material, but high enough that you can get good vapor under the 600 degree max.
All else false, run in watts adjusted to your technique. If you're a slow sipper, around 15 W, or up to 25 W if drawing faster. The coil distance to herb comes into more obvious play too.
nothing keeps it on tcr just ordered a used reuleaux 200s for further testing when it arrives
grokit
well-worn member
I've been messing around with my new shitfucker, and having success at 22.5 watts with an istick pico 75w. I tried an istick pico 40w before that without any real success, but it could've been my settings.
It's a little fragile, definitely for around the house but as a proof of concept I like it a lot
It's a little fragile, definitely for around the house but as a proof of concept I like it a lot
goodpunk6
Well-Known Member
I've been messing around with my new shitfucker, and having success at 22.5 watts with an istick pico 75w. I tried an istick pico 40w before that with no success, but it could've been my settings.
It's a little fragile, definitely for around the house but as a proof of concept I like it a lot
I was wondering about this when it comes to the Pure SF. Seems like the eraser is/should be better outside of the home.
yeh i would get an eraser for outdoor use, i can see me smashing the sf. also pipes how did you construct this mouthpiece, is it safe to soak in iso with the shrink sleeve?
also been using the sf all day and hasn’t once bounced back to watts, this 3 battery mod is a heavy beast though
ok so i was right about the sf, just the mouthpiece rolling from my laptop onto the table caused a crack in the end of the mouthpeice, luckily ill be able to grind off the flare and it will be fine as that’s where the crack is, in the mean time, with the correct o-rings anything is possible!
KeroZen
Chronic vapaholic
Yes again I don't think it's the way to go for the mouthpiece. For sure having a compatible drip tip is nice but it weakens the GonG joint too much. @Pipes you should just cut your male joint blanks to length and be done with it, way more resistant and less work for you.
One thing that Dave from MistVape does with his stems that is very nice is to enlarge part of the tip ID. I don't know how he does that but it allows to make the screen stay in place by creating a stopper. You can't push it all the way down and it also makes the bowl slightly larger due to the increased diameter.
One thing that Dave from MistVape does with his stems that is very nice is to enlarge part of the tip ID. I don't know how he does that but it allows to make the screen stay in place by creating a stopper. You can't push it all the way down and it also makes the bowl slightly larger due to the increased diameter.
Planning to move on the evic vtc dual or cuboid. Any advice or recommendations (in terms of issues etc.)?
Hippie
Well-Known Member
The cuboid had issues with the 510 connector
I dunno if they've fixed it with later revisions or not
The spring in the centre pin on one of my units is quite temperamental and picky about which atomisers it'll make a good connection with after 12months of use, and I'm not really one for changing atomisers very often.
The newer models from joyetech have a better 510 connector, I'd say. I recently bought an Evic primo se which looks to have a much better 510 connector arrangement.
I dunno if they've fixed it with later revisions or not
The spring in the centre pin on one of my units is quite temperamental and picky about which atomisers it'll make a good connection with after 12months of use, and I'm not really one for changing atomisers very often.
The newer models from joyetech have a better 510 connector, I'd say. I recently bought an Evic primo se which looks to have a much better 510 connector arrangement.
Does anyone tried these if fit in Eraser or SF?
https://www.vaporwarehouse.com/site/vapehale-evo-elb.html
https://www.vaporwarehouse.com/site/vapehale-evo-elb.html
KeroZen
Chronic vapaholic
From what I gathered, Joyetech / Eleaf / Wismec are basically the same company, or the former is the OEM/ODM for the latter. But they all share the same chipset and while they have a great value for their price, you still get what you pay for and they are entry level only. Stock TC is just horrible and you can improve them with custom firmware but it's not the panacea either.
At the moment the 3 best chipsets on the market are the HohmTech FSK (as found in Hohm Wrecker G2 and Hohm Slice), the Evolv DNA75/75C and DNA250, and the YiHi SX350J-v2 and SX550J. They are the best for TC with higher resolution ADC and better components. The software on the FSK is impressive, they claim to be able to TC basically anything, including Kanthal, Nichrome and "Ceramic infused" even if I have no clue what that last one is!
These devices cost a premium (in comparison) but you can get some DNA75 for relatively cheap nowadays like this one (Jac Vapour SERIES B DNA 75W) >> http://www.jacvapour.com/evolv-dna75
PS: and when you compute the total, Project + good mod, you are still under most other vapes in the portable on-demand convection category.
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Do these enable the fine tuning with PID like myevic etc.? Can't find any related posts in this thread.
AF is big improvement but still getting +/-30°C jumps when protection appears - it usually happens twice per 15s puff limit.
is it effecting your draw much? can you not adjust the heating curve a bit?
Just measurements info. It is silly but can't test it now since my SF is broken and waiting for glass spares from local supplier.