The "Project" DIY Herbal Vaporizer

[Pipes]

@Pipes What are the wait times for the Eraser and the Pure SF?

Now that's a good question. I cut the SS tubes up just yesterday and just need to clean them up. I also now have the glass for the SFs.
A couple things I want to do first before moving forward though.
1st thing is to see if the PEEK insulators might be a better choice but want to confirm first.
2nd is to try a new technique out I've being pondering over, to re-introduce a wooden sleeve. Don't want to waste a lot of time with this so may fail back to the Eraser to clear up the waiting list.
I keep telling myself next week.... which is what I'm still telling myself. LOL.
Actually, I have next week off so hopefully will get some going.

 

[Joaon]

wooden sleeve

 

[goodpunk6]

Now that's a good question. I cut the SS tubes up just yesterday and just need to clean them up. I also now have the glass for the SFs.
A couple things I want to do first before moving forward though.
1st thing is to see if the PEEK insulators might be a better choice but want to confirm first.
2nd is to try a new technique out I've being pondering over, to re-introduce a wooden sleeve. Don't want to waste a lot of time with this so may fail back to the Eraser to clear up the waiting list.
I keep telling myself next week.... which is what I'm still telling myself. LOL.
Actually, I have next week off so hopefully will get some going.

Wooden sleeve!!

 

[KeroZen]

Weeden sloove!!!

 

[Pipes]

I ran my Nylon vs Peek test tonight. As hoped for, the Peek won out hands down.
Note, I ran these at 8 amps constant without airflow so well beyond anything we should be running at.
The Perk ran over twice as long and was just starting to deform when the setup failed. What actually happened is the bottom nylon insulator started to collapse and the wire I had soldered to the center touched and blew off the post. The overall heat must have being very high for it to melt the bottom insulator.
Nevertheless, a VERY successful experiment.

The conclusion is: I'm stocking up on these PEEK insulators and will be using for any future units.

WARNING: Some scenes not suitable for all audiences. No Projects were permanently damaged and will be recruited back into action.

The end result.



See the Nylon is completely fucked and the Peek was just starting to collapse.
Under normal use the nylon works but if accidentally have an overheat, these would be a much better replacement.

 

[jimt0r]

ah good results, now to see if i can find a use for bag of 1000 nylon lol

did you use all nylon on one and all peek on the other?

maybe do a hybrid test, peek on top and nylon on the bottom

 

[Pipes]

It was nylon on the bottom. Took some pretty extreme heat to travel down the bolt. The nylon was just warm enough for the bolt to move for my Jerry rigged connection to touch ground. Don't think that should be a concern as would never drive that far in real life.

IMO, you can still use the nylon for the bottom.

 

[jimt0r]

now that ya point it out they are different colors top and bottom. good to see there wasn't any visible travel in the bottom insulator of either side of the test

 

[Vaporbabe]

So Awesome! I love it! DIY Vape

 

[jimt0r]

the parts are piling up, wondering how @Pipes removed the original pin of the 510 adapter.

Any recommendations how to use a the RX 300 on this project.
I have used a Kangertech KBOX nano and a Smok Alien on Ni with a Sub-Herb and a screen in the bowl to make separation between the element and herb. (closer to convection styles)
KBOX was awesome to use, lacks in the battery area and can be used whilst charging.
The alien seemed like it over shoots way too often and cuts to the power were too long to make it unusable
https://imgur.com/a/DftIL
https://imgur.com/a/DftIL
https://imgur.com/a/DftIL

 

[Pipes]

Quickest and easiest way to get the original pin out is a drill press or drill with vise. Don't need to drill right though as it will come out once the head is drilled off. Once you do a couple, you'll see.
BTW, Good stuff!

 

[jimt0r]

I see like drilling the head off a rivet, was that though the top?

 

[Pipes]

Into the bottom. Once head comes off, it will push through. Careful not to use too wide of bit, as don't want to shave the inner lip off.
Following that, I use a vise to get the new nylon insulator into the hole. It's very tight and sometimes some nylon will shave off the side. Which hasn't being any problems.

 

[goodpunk6]

Into the bottom. Once head comes off, it will push through. Careful not to use too wide of bit, as don't want to shave the inner lip off.
Following that, I use a vise to get the new nylon insulator into the hole. It's very tight and sometimes some nylon will shave off the side. Which hasn't being any problems.

Sounds like we're getting closer to having some Erasers and Pure SF's being shipped.

 

[jimt0r]

Hold the press!!! https://imgur.com/a/AECGD

the rubbers in them have just enough flex that i could push the top of the pin and make the bottom end poke out a bit and grab it with pliers then to unscrew the pin. now to finish the others

edit.
in the end the last 8 i had gotten the job done with just the screwdriver and some friction on the bottom end of the pin, namely my thumb.

 

[KeroZen]

Hey @Pipes and others: did you test this kind of tool to cut the glass blanks?

https://www.banggood.com/Profession...utting-Wheel-Metal-Handle-Head-p-1117632.html

I read that you just have to mark the glass to create a stress line, then using something to damp the impact, you just hit the part you want to remove with one clean blow and it breaks following exactly the line.

I received my tool already but didn't test it. Yet some while ago I tested the technique on my broken Milaana stem: I used a diamond file to make a small surface incision, then hit the part I wanted to remove with a small rock and repeated the operation until the broken end of the stem was more or less round again (it was broken in a saw pattern with pointy ends)

 

[Hippie Dickie]

@KeroZen - that's the kind of cutter head i used to cut down 150mm tubes to 35mm length for my oven tube. i clamped it to a piece of wood so i could rotate the tube against the cutter (groove in the wood for the tube to rotate in), doing a dozen rotations to get a very good score in the glass. then i used a BIC to heat the score line, wiped with a damp cloth, wrapped the cloth around the score for safety, and snapped on the score - only 1 in 4 tries would be clean breaks at first - practice, practice, practice as necessary. might be better to heat before scoring, too. propane torch is good for annealing the new, raw edge.

i "borrowed" the cutter from my gf's stained glass workshop, and used her motorized grinding tools to smooth the jaggies (gosh, i haven't used that term since 1972, relating to computer displays). i hated the waste of glass and ordered custom cut glass tubes from India.

it's all in my thread, somewhere.

 

[luke00978]

just got my sf in the post yesterday, took 7 days to the UK! cheers pipes. thisngs a little beast, using it on an ikonn 220 , only problem is after a session or 2 i will hit the button to heat (tcr mode) and the mod will bounce straight in to watt mode and wont go back into tcr until the project is removed and refitted, have iso cleaned the 510, have tightened the base screw, coil is nice and tight.... any ideas? i dont have another mod to test on unfortunately

 

[Pipes]

Your very welcome and glad it was so quick.
Mods will go into watt mode when the coil resistance doesn't behave or change as expected.
Have you tried getting another initial ohms measurement? Should be around .5-.6 ohms.
Take out the battery also forces the settings back instead of un-screwing. Also, unlock the ohms for a while to see if that helps.

If that all fails, they must be something happening in the deck stack. This is the new symptom of using the Peek as there is now no collar on the insulator. This makes it much harder to center things up when assembling such that nothing in the lower level is touching the post. Fortunately, the washers can be shifted without having to loosen anything. I used needle nose pliers to center the washers up. Starting with the bottom washer and work my way up. If it's the lower coil wrap itself touching, then the bolt needs to come off to center the wrap or open the loop some.

I had thought about adding a layer of insulator, such as shrink tubing, around the post itself, but did not want to introduce anything unknown into the vapor path.

 

[KeroZen]

@luke00978: Any way to lock your resistance reading down in this mod?

@Pipes: I don't recall exactly but weren't some of the PEEK items I posted earlier with a collar?

The best would really to find a ceramic equivalent though...

 

[luke00978]

yeh resistance is locked left it at room temp fitted then locked resistance... still reverts to watts after 1 or 2 sessions. just tried resetting everything after pulling the batteries will see how that goes. initial coil reading is .51 so seems in range

 

[KeroZen]

By session, you mean entire back to back bowls?

 

[luke00978]

By session, you mean entire back to back bowls?

yes session = full bowl (what i mean here anyway)

edit: as soon as i posted this it reverted to watts! ill try repositioning the washers now

 

[Pipes]

@KeroZen, the collar is too wide to go through the hole. Was snipping it off and then started to just install flipped over so lip is towards the small washer.
@luke00978 , only move a tid at a time, centering as best you can. You will likely overshoot a couple times and have mod say it's shorted. You will need to remove batteries after each attempt as the mod thinks it's the same atomizer and may continue to complain. Can be frustrating going down that rabbit hole. If you move washers to a better looking center position, and still not shorted, you'll need to test drive to see if solved. Could be a lengthy experience. But worth it in the end.

 

[luke00978]

thanks for the help pipes and zen, ive repositioned the washers, no atomizer short but its doing the same thing, you think the fact that it works for a couple of sessions means it could be a firmware issue? obviously i know the only way to verify is to try with a different mod!