The "Project" DIY Herbal Vaporizer

[Pipes]

Consider a reservation made my good man.
The EVics firmware kicks it into power mode when the temperature or resistance doesn't raise as fast as it's expecting it to when X amount of time goes by. With the single cell units like the mini, it's a sign of weak/old battery or watts set too low. This seemed to go away when I switched to the Cuboid. More available power would be the reason I presume.
The new firmware also changed these numbers for the better. Also, this is the kind of thing which playing with the PID numbers influence.
Fun stuff.

 

[rabblerouser]

very excited, will be a race against time between the cuboid coming and The Project. I'm betting on the cuboid, since it doesn't have to pass thru customs. (They're also both in a race with the vapcap I ordered last week too...this is what i get for spending time on FC again )

glass sounds cool, but knowing that I drop my e-cig regularly... I will probably stick to the indestructible version.

 

[E0x]

the glass version need like i say before a outter shell.

 

[rabblerouser]

so, for @Pipes or anyone with the eraser version... the Arizer solo stems and WPA are a good fit?,
for something easily available online?

Does what I'm getting in the mail allow for easily adapting to water? (I have 18mm stuff, but do have a reducer) or should I also be ordering a solo wpa too?

 

[Pipes]

@E0x, thanks for the suggestion and I see where your coming from, however, the support of the unit is in the O ring connection on the bottom. If dropped, I would think that is where the pressure point is on the glass, and that's where it will likely snap. A sleeve will have little protection against this situation. The top is the 14mm connector so is quite strong. Plus, you would loose the coolness look.
I think the stem is the biggest concern as will fall out easily if not pushes tightly in. The thing is, since it does fit and feels secure, one tends to get use to holding it on different angles until the time you forgot to have in all the way. One measure one could take would be to use a joint clip but think that would get old fast.
All I can say is if you get one..... be careful, ir's glass.

so, for @Pipes or anyone with the eraser version... the Arizer solo stems and WPA are a good fit?,
for something easily available online?

Does what I'm getting in the mail allow for easily adapting to water? (I have 18mm stuff, but do have a reducer) or should I also be ordering a solo wpa too?

I use mine with my D20 all the time. I have a thick O ring in the 18mm hole and just use the provided stem. Solo stems fit great!! So any Solo options will work just dandy. As will Nano stems along with others.

 

[rabblerouser]

I use mine with my D20 all the time. I have a thick O ring in the 18mm hole and just use the provided stem. Solo stems fit great!! So any Solo options will work just dandy. As with Nano stems along with others.

Ok, I am well-stocked with nano stems and GonGs. Awesome, that saves me blowing even more dollars on vapor gear this month (I did not know those two were close / interchangeable).

 

[Pipes]

The Eraser will adapt to your favorite stem type. The stock and Solo stems are close in size and the Nano stem is a little narrower. If you use the stock or Solo stems, the Eraser will stretch out some over time and will no longer fit the Nano tight. If you plan to use Nano stems, do so from the start to avoid the fit loosening up.

But the new coil geometry is a huge improvement: instead of having to stir every couple of hits like in the previous version, I stir once or at most twice per bowl/session now, fantastic!

Thanks. Have you tried tilting and moving the stem around slightly while inhaling? This will even out the heat flow even more. Should only need to stir once near the end to get 1-2 more puffs.
Give it a shot.

 

[Pipes]

So I received the 15ea glass male and female joints today.
Made up a couple units which went well. Just waiting on the 510 stems to size up the ID on the cut male sections. As is, it's tight for most 510 tips but I know they are not all created the same so will wait for the designated stems to arrive before sizing it.



Now does anyone have any tips on the drilling to minimize the micro chipping which happens on the inside of the drilled holes? Going really slowly near the end of drilling helps but seems something that we may have to live with to some degree.
Not as hard as I thought to get this far though.

 

[Hippie Dickie]

diamond drill bit? under water? smaller holes in a cluster?

 

[Pipes]

diamond drill bit? under water? smaller holes in a cluster?

Yes, yes and drilling 3 holes equally spaced around the tube. 1.5mm holes.

 

[virtualpurple]

@Pipes can I reserve a unit for purchase as well? I'm loving this!

 

[Pipes]

Sure can. Your in!

 

[natural farmer]

@Pipes? Do I need to reserve an Eraser? I am having a court next week but after that, if it goes well, I'm gonna need one!

Has anyone tried a Vapcap as a stem with the Eraser?

 

[Pipes]

Not right now as I have Erasers ready to go.
As for the VapCap, I'll use the PM to give you an idea.....

 

[Pipes]

@Pipes? Do I need to reserve an Eraser? I am having a court next week but after that, if it goes well, I'm gonna need one!

Has anyone tried a Vapcap as a stem with the Eraser?

I think this is more what your after NF. Now we're talking serious heat. Takes full power from the Cuboid to drive it. Which is 93 watts for this build.
.9 ohm SS 304 22 AWG. Would prefer 20 AWG but this is what I had on hand for this mock up build.

 

[PPN]

The Project reborn seems interesting but I will stick with the one I still own cause it works very well, so well I decided to replace the Nano I used in my office by the Project!

After some tries using the DT donut V3 on the top of my Evic I put the Project but forgotten to change the TCR....so now I'm using it at TCR 140 (if I remenber well) and 510° with great results! I'm still using a small "deflector" screen on the top of my load (FM, Prima or all this sort of screens work).

 

[funkyjunky]

nice coil design!
imo it uses too much power to drive it. think it speaks for incomplete heating of the air. id suggest to increase surface area by going thinner awg but two or three strands twisted. i am building a tubo heater with twisted wire and have good results with it. i have calculated an surface increase factor of about 1.5 from one strand compared to two thinner strands. give it a try!

 

[natural farmer]

nice coil design!
imo it uses too much power to drive it. think it speaks for incomplete heating of the air. id suggest to increase surface area by going thinner awg but two or three strands twisted. i am building a tubo heater with twisted wire and have good results with it. i have calculated an surface increase factor of about 1.5 from one strand compared to two thinner strands. give it a try!

Hehe, this is a side project we are discussing with Pipes buddy! Stay tuned!

 

[E0x]

The Project reborn seems interesting but I will stick with the one I still own cause it works very well, so well I decided to replace the Nano I used in my office by the Project!

After some tries using the DT donut V3 on the top of my Evic I put the Project but forgotten to change the TCR....so now I'm using it at TCR 140 (if I remenber well) and 510° with great results! I'm still using a small "deflector" screen on the top of my load (FM, Prima or all this sort of screens work).

tcr 145*

 

[Alan]

So I received the 15ea glass male and female joints today.
Made up a couple units which went well. Just waiting on the 510 stems to size up the ID on the cut male sections. As is, it's tight for most 510 tips but I know they are not all created the same so will wait for the designated stems to arrive before sizing it.



Now does anyone have any tips on the drilling to minimize the micro chipping which happens on the inside of the drilled holes? Going really slowly near the end of drilling helps but seems something that we may have to live with to some degree.
Not as hard as I thought to get this far though.

I find that supporting the glass from the inside will reduce the amount of breakout that occurs. I use a piece of silicone tubing that is stretched over a metal tube so that it tightly fits inside the glass tube. It is a similar concept to placing a scrap board under the wood you are drilling so that it won't break out as you complete the hole.
I wish you luck with your boring job.

 

[Pipes]

Perfect! Thanks @Alan. Makes a lot of sense and have rubber tubing on hand.

 

[virtualpurple]

@natural farmer and @Pipes please keep me posted with what you gentleman are planning with the vapcap and the project! I have a feeling that will be of great use to my omnivap!

 

[Pipes]

Well, here we go once again changing things.
In playing with the coil for the VapCap, I discovered that the coil got hot more uniformly with that type of build.
So I got back to experimenting some. What I have come up with might please the folks having trouble with the V build. Let's call this build "the twister."
Basically, much the same shape but with the + and - sides of the element take the same path to the top. Excuse the roughness of the finial coil as I had re-done the wind a couple times. This was just for evaluation.



So far, my testing shows performance pretty much the same as previous build but the element does have much more even glow rather than just seeing the top portion get red. Theoretically, it should be more even heat...? But the big thing is that it's easier to build. @E0x ..... here you go.

 

[PPN]

Help please!

By mistake I used my Project on TCR 245 (the setting I use with my donut V3), it was working for a few bowls until I read" weak battery" and the the coil wasn't hot enough.... I realized my mistake and set it at my previous setting on M2 (TCR 140) and now it's not hot enough to heat the load, I'm not able to get it glowing even using 600°F. I read one time "atomizer short", checked the coil, screwed again without better results, sometime it seems to work but it doesn't last.

My actual (non working cause potentials damage) settings:

TCR 140
Power 50W
Resistance 0.45

Is something wrong or did I killed the coil with my mistake?

 

[Pipes]

Oh @PPN, what are we going to do with you.
I believe you fall into the number 2 of this post. "Setting mishap."
This type of occurrence really enforces my belief that we should dedicate a mod to the Project as wrong settings can cause damage very quickly. These mods have tons of power and if the set temp is not achievable because of incorrect setting information, causes the mod to run full out expecting the ohms to change to a value not possible. I found the insulator softens and causes the coil to become loose causing intermittent connection. Hopefully, just needs to be tightened.

It should be a spring loaded pin on the mod. Do not attempt to turn it!

The following applies to anyone having such a problem of ohms drifting in an upwards direction and main connection is tight.

Here's a couple things to look at on the Project side:

1/The bottom screw being counter sunk too far not giving good contact. This would be caused by it being over tightened or was border line to start with..? If this is the case the lower bushing will need replacing.
2/The upper portion has become too loose. Caused by not initially tight enough or more likely an accidental over heat in the learning curve or setting mishap. Have a close look at the insulator between the washers. If an over heat occurred it may be visibly crushed. Pending on how severe, simply tightening will correct the issue. Needle nose pliers and a phillip's a screw driver will do for the procedure. Just be very careful poking the pliers around the coil. Tighten with screw driver so no need to turn the pliers. If the insulator looks too dangerously crunched and washers have little clearance, the insulator needs replacing.

I have included with all the projects some extra insulators in the case of this failure. The coil is robust enough that bending over to the side, as shown in my previous pics and video, and allow easy removal of center nuts, bolts and washers. The lower insulator is very tight and I used a vise to push into place. The upper insulator is also a tight fit to get the inner lip inside the washer. I collapsed the inner lips to get in and then used a dart end or a poker of some kind to straiten out the collar once in the hole. Re-assembly is easier with the coil already with the appropriate sized hooks already bent to wrap around the post.
Be careful the the lower larger winding of the coil does not touch the center post when you tighten it up. Also, be cautious not to over tighten as the bottom insulator will collapse too much. Easy to do as can really torque it with the screw driver. In fact, some collapsing is good and necessary as it acts as a lock washer.

Good luck and let me know how things are panning out.

Good luck and let us know how you make out.