The "Project" DIY Herbal Vaporizer
- Thread starter Pipes
- Start date
natural farmer
Well-Known Member
The Project has become my daily driver once more... The combination with the Smoant Knight v2 gives me some really amazing sessions and the whole vape has become very small, stealthy and comfortable to use. Right now, as is, I think it's the best convection portable in the market. I can't really find any cons with this combo. I know, big words, but I dare anyone to make a point to point comparison with any convection portable vape right now in the market. It's really THAT good!
The Smoant on its own works really great! There are minimal settings to mess with but it works so good I don't think it needs more. You can't even lock the resistanse but since I have put the Eraser on it always locked at 0.52Ω. The only thing needed is to set TCR and temperature. With this Eraser I have set the TCR to 210 and temps seem to be spot on. I have some visible vapor from 150°C and scorching at 230°C with just 5-6 sec draw. I usually start my session at 190° and finish at 210° but I play with load sizes and temps all the time in between. This is the most controlled vape I have ever experienced and I can have each hit exactly as I want it, hit after hit. I know some of you play with the firmware and setting all the time to find your perfect spot but I haven't find the need so far and with the Smoant even less.
It's also great because I think it displays temperature and watt consumption in real time. I draw faster and I see the temps dropping instantly. It's fun to see how it compensates for a faster momentary draw by upping the wattage to the max set by me to compensate fast. I could use more than 50W that I use to compensate faster but I don't draw that hard (harsher for the throat) and want to treat my batteries better after @KeroZen's notes... Screen is also very comfortable to see while drawing unlike Pico's where my finger pushing the fire button would be in the way. Very practical so you can know when the 10secs has passed or when the temps are up there to start the hit!
I have also made a stem out of the SS core of my second Eraser and the plastic tip of the Air stem for the moment as my Air stem broke in the sink while washing. I joined them with some silicone tubing and it's now a very stealthy and also indestructible stem. This will be for outdoors. I have another one made for home use with the short Milaana glass stem and while the vaporpath is pretty wide and relatively short the vapor is still quite comfortable!
The Smoant on its own works really great! There are minimal settings to mess with but it works so good I don't think it needs more. You can't even lock the resistanse but since I have put the Eraser on it always locked at 0.52Ω. The only thing needed is to set TCR and temperature. With this Eraser I have set the TCR to 210 and temps seem to be spot on. I have some visible vapor from 150°C and scorching at 230°C with just 5-6 sec draw. I usually start my session at 190° and finish at 210° but I play with load sizes and temps all the time in between. This is the most controlled vape I have ever experienced and I can have each hit exactly as I want it, hit after hit. I know some of you play with the firmware and setting all the time to find your perfect spot but I haven't find the need so far and with the Smoant even less.
It's also great because I think it displays temperature and watt consumption in real time. I draw faster and I see the temps dropping instantly. It's fun to see how it compensates for a faster momentary draw by upping the wattage to the max set by me to compensate fast. I could use more than 50W that I use to compensate faster but I don't draw that hard (harsher for the throat) and want to treat my batteries better after @KeroZen's notes... Screen is also very comfortable to see while drawing unlike Pico's where my finger pushing the fire button would be in the way. Very practical so you can know when the 10secs has passed or when the temps are up there to start the hit!
I have also made a stem out of the SS core of my second Eraser and the plastic tip of the Air stem for the moment as my Air stem broke in the sink while washing. I joined them with some silicone tubing and it's now a very stealthy and also indestructible stem. This will be for outdoors. I have another one made for home use with the short Milaana glass stem and while the vaporpath is pretty wide and relatively short the vapor is still quite comfortable!
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natural farmer
Well-Known Member
Not trying to say you should get one, just that I really like it! It's very simple, keeps the Eraser's height low, works good, built quality is great and is very cheap. Ejuice tank included so at least you get a nice ecig if you don't like it in the end. Hahahaha!
fluffhead
Recovering Idealist
Be careful, @natural farmer can be very convincing when it comes to vapes and accessories.
I can't speak for either the smoant or the vtc mini, but natural farmer hasn't steered me wrong yet. 
Is the smoant compatible with the myevic software? How stable is the temp?Welcome back! That didn't take long. The ProjectS are my daily drivers. My main driver is the eraser, but the sf still gets a few sessions each day based on mood and/or speed. I have found something interesting since I have been using the new wire for my eraser coil. With a cold resistance of .485, the listed temperatures are closer to the ones that I am looking for. I was using a 70 degree offset with the previous coil, but with the current one, it is around 30. I think it has also been using less battery, but of that I am not sure.
Who says you need to stir to get even cooking with a convection device? I rotate my stem between hits usually and I almost always end up with very even (and thoroughly extracted) abv.
I put the projects among vapes that extract thoroughly at low temps. While some vapes leave a lot of cannabinoids "on the table" so to speak at lower temps, I find there is little benefit to large jumps in temperature because almost everything is cooked at lower temps. My theory is that this is what allows me to reap the benefits that I get from cannabis through the project even at lower temperatures. I have tested thoroughness of extraction at a variety of temperatures using the projects, milaana, vapcap, evo, gh and herbalizer. Basically my ramblings are concluded by my belief that @Pipes puts magic (that is the technical term) into the project and that is why it is my favourite vape.
natural farmer
Well-Known Member
You know... It's all about science...Be careful, @natural farmer can be very convincing when it comes to vapes and accessories.
Smoant doesn't take updates and is not compatible with myevic. It holds temps much better than the Cuboid on stock firmware and stock myevic firmware. Similar to Pico. VERY stable. You can see it real time as well. You draw harder, you see the temps going down maybe 20 degrees and then you see the wattage spiking up and the temp rising fast even with the fast draw still going. Fun!
And yeah, stirring is not necessary at low temps indeed! Gradually raising the temps and rotating the stem are enough for a very even bake. But to get everything out some stirring is needed still. That's true for every vape though...
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The Project has become my daily driver once more... The combination with the Smoant Knight v2 gives me some really amazing sessions and the whole vape has become very small, stealthy and comfortable to use. Right now, as is, I think it's the best convection portable in the market. I can't really find any cons with this combo. I know, big words, but I dare anyone to make a point to point comparison with any convection portable vape right now in the market. It's really THAT good!
The Smoant on its own works really great! There are minimal settings to mess with but it works so good I don't think it needs more. You can't even lock the resistanse but since I have put the Eraser on it always locked at 0.52Ω. The only thing needed is to set TCR and temperature. With this Eraser I have set the TCR to 210 and temps seem to be spot on. I have some visible vapor from 150°C and scorching at 230°C with just 5-6 sec draw. I usually start my session at 190° and finish at 210° but I play with load sizes and temps all the time in between. This is the most controlled vape I have ever experienced and I can have each hit exactly as I want it, hit after hit. I know some of you play with the firmware and setting all the time to find your perfect spot but I haven't find the need so far and with the Smoant even less.
It's also great because I think it displays temperature and watt consumption in real time. I draw faster and I see the temps dropping instantly. It's fun to see how it compensates for a faster momentary draw by upping the wattage to the max set by me to compensate fast. I could use more than 50W that I use to compensate faster but I don't draw that hard (harsher for the throat) and want to treat my batteries better after @KeroZen's notes... Screen is also very comfortable to see while drawing unlike Pico's where my finger pushing the fire button would be in the way. Very practical so you can know when the 10secs has passed or when the temps are up there to start the hit!
I have also made a stem out of the SS core of my second Eraser and the plastic tip of the Air stem for the moment as my Air stem broke in the sink while washing. I joined them with some silicone tubing and it's now a very stealthy and also indestructible stem. This will be for outdoors. I have another one made for home use with the short Milaana glass stem and while the vaporpath is pretty wide and relatively short the vapor is still quite comfortable!
Very nice too see.
I cant quite get my head round all the PID settings from the other thread, but thankfully, I'm with you in not feeling the need. Im getting crazy amazing hits every time (tho I am using @Pipes initial PID settings and did find it made a difference).
Great to see the Smoant with the Eraser installed next to some comparisons for size.
Depends on what you want I guess? I'm absolutely LOVING the Wismec RX2/3 with 3 batteries
Its a bit heavy but the battery life is loooooooong and I'm finding that to be more of an issue for me than size That being said, I have a Pico Dual on the way just to try it out and see if I like the two batteries in conjunction with smaller size.
Battery life with 2 batteries on the Cuboid was great, 2 batteries on the RX2/3 wasnt as impressive, 3 batteries on the RX2/3 is awesome
Theres a decent amount of options for boxmods!
I want Smoant (or any manufacturer) to bring out a side by side/stealth two battery version!
I WANT THE MOON ON A STICK!
Depends on what you want I guess? I'm absolutely LOVING the Wismec RX2/3 with 3 batteries
I want big clouds like GH big lol. But i also want easy setup if i dont have to flash mod or fuck with pid than that sounds like wat i need i can carry an extra 18650 still seems like better setup than GH. Damn im excited for my project.
Sorry for back to back posts edit is long gone lol but i have to ask is this a good deal ?
http://cheapvaping.deals/smoant-knight-v2
http://cheapvaping.deals/smoant-knight-v2
natural farmer
Well-Known Member
Looks like a crazy good flash sale! No idea about the shop though!Sorry for back to back posts edit is long gone lol but i have to ask is this a good deal ?
natural farmer
Well-Known Member
Waiting for impressions...Ok if this is still the sale by Friday, my payday lol i will order. My plan is to replicate farmers settings and report the results. I feel like its the simplest way to get started
KeroZen
Chronic vapaholic
Well yes! Right after completing it, I proceeded to the mandatory live test. I was thinking what kind of word-play I could make, like "it works like a champs!"...It went well for a couple of hits then I was greeted with thick and smelly smoke... It didn't just combust a small speck, it literally lit like a fucking cherry and when I opened it half of the load was already gone!
I spare you the part where I cleaned everything and re-tried and re-combusted right after... (ahem!) Then I re-cleaned, this time rechecked the coil connections, made it even tighter... then realized my evic mini was completely haywire with the firmware partly bricked and not able to use TC mode anymore...
After reflashing and reconfiguring everything with a newer myevic version, I was back on track. I tested the recently posted PID coefs and did a couple sessions. I wasn't really satisfied, it worked but the taste was spoiled way too fast, like a crappy Milaana session. You know when the taste tells you it's nearly done but you know you didn't get enough vapor out of the load.
I continued experimenting other coefs. I also reverted to 190 instead of 175 for the TCR coeff. Now it's not perfect but it's way better. I had 4 or 5 very nice sessions that lasted long enough with a really good taste and didn't create any concentrated hot spot, just a large center spot and gradient, as is common with convection without much turbulence. I flipped the load just once near the end of every session (blow and re-suck with stem in palm) and it was enough.
For some reason, it works like my Zions in the sense that I just set a given power setting (here temperature) and I'm able to extract everything without touching it. With the Project I think that over time the steel "bowl" in the stem conducts more and more heat, creating a slow temperature rise. That combined with draw speed control seems to allow me to do a natural temp stepping without touching the temperature setting. I also find that it's more predictable this way, no bad surprise.
As for the cork sleeve itself: it stays cool as expected (but mine is quite thick) I wasn't able to detect any parasitic smell or taste so far, and I didn't do the vinegar rinsing part of the recipe. The stem fit is perfect and air tight. It's working for sure... just mine is a bit ugly haha!
I spare you the part where I cleaned everything and re-tried and re-combusted right after... (ahem!) Then I re-cleaned, this time rechecked the coil connections, made it even tighter... then realized my evic mini was completely haywire with the firmware partly bricked and not able to use TC mode anymore...
After reflashing and reconfiguring everything with a newer myevic version, I was back on track. I tested the recently posted PID coefs and did a couple sessions. I wasn't really satisfied, it worked but the taste was spoiled way too fast, like a crappy Milaana session. You know when the taste tells you it's nearly done but you know you didn't get enough vapor out of the load.
I continued experimenting other coefs. I also reverted to 190 instead of 175 for the TCR coeff. Now it's not perfect but it's way better. I had 4 or 5 very nice sessions that lasted long enough with a really good taste and didn't create any concentrated hot spot, just a large center spot and gradient, as is common with convection without much turbulence. I flipped the load just once near the end of every session (blow and re-suck with stem in palm) and it was enough.
For some reason, it works like my Zions in the sense that I just set a given power setting (here temperature) and I'm able to extract everything without touching it. With the Project I think that over time the steel "bowl" in the stem conducts more and more heat, creating a slow temperature rise. That combined with draw speed control seems to allow me to do a natural temp stepping without touching the temperature setting. I also find that it's more predictable this way, no bad surprise.
As for the cork sleeve itself: it stays cool as expected (but mine is quite thick) I wasn't able to detect any parasitic smell or taste so far, and I didn't do the vinegar rinsing part of the recipe. The stem fit is perfect and air tight. It's working for sure... just mine is a bit ugly haha!
ander
Well-Known Member
Very interesting.
I don't touch the temperature anymore either. I also prefer to let the ohms read locked as it is, and vary the TCR only. The benefit of the "shift" is a mystery for me. Different approaches.
About the cork; huge or thin, thanks to the structure of this material, the result is always cool.
I don't touch the temperature anymore either. I also prefer to let the ohms read locked as it is, and vary the TCR only. The benefit of the "shift" is a mystery for me. Different approaches.
About the cork; huge or thin, thanks to the structure of this material, the result is always cool.
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rabblerouser
Combustion Fucker
So, I think I'm getting on the cork bandwagon...found theses:
http://www.bonanza.com/listings/Win...lo-For-Corking-Wine-Bottles-38x22mm/442993682
http://www.bonanza.com/listings/Win...lo-For-Corking-Wine-Bottles-38x22mm/442993682
natural farmer
Well-Known Member
ander
Well-Known Member
I MUST suggest the use of natural cork stoppers for our purpose...
Me neither... so, since we have the choice...
EDIT: I realized is not that simple to obtain a small quantity of natural (not treated...) cork stoppers from the web shops... but guys... any wine shop around..? Make a special moment of your cork project..!
EDIT2: I understand... living in Italy has great advantage on the cork side. I have about 8 natural corks 45mm x 25mm. Want 1 or 2? Obviously for free... pm.
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rabblerouser
Combustion Fucker
This does sond like a new / good agglomerated cork product though. I wouldn't trust all of them...
Here's their pitch:
http://www.amorimcork.com/en/products/catalogue/neutrocork/
Here's their pitch:
http://www.amorimcork.com/en/products/catalogue/neutrocork/
natural farmer
Well-Known Member
Maybe an email to them could answer our questions about what temps they can take...
Vapenic
Gaseouser
Just some personal experience with corks, if you don't mind guys.. I used to experiment with it as natural insulator directly around heat source, not quite like here, but had very poor results. Cork comes in two main quality, one is premium, cut as one piece out of a larger body, the other is remaining grains glued/pressed together. The latter can be quite nasty, even though the natural resins are normally enough to bond grains for less abusive purposes, for champagnes etc. they tend to reinforce it. Either way, the typical cork resin sports an overwhelming taste to it, so I only found use of it away from airpath/vaporpath, and not much beyond a 100 C°. From cork I actually went to silica products, clays, than (because of silicosis doubts) back to polymers, like FG epoxy and silicones, final word is though: glass with silicone (and Dremel tool) are best performing, where air got to be heated pollution-free and taste-neutral.. This is btw. by far my favourite topic here, on FC, I shall soon join in with my European interpretation Thanks for all knowledge!
Thanks for all knowledge!
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ander
Well-Known Member
Thanks @Gibarian. We are experimenting so every experience is gold.
Since the first cork prototypes were mine I feel somewhat responsible... so 2 things, again, then I'll not bother any more:
1- Yes, the material involved in the airflow path is near zero... it is the space that creates from the junction of the 2 SS tubes and the mesh. But there are also the 3 little holes, and there the contact and the eventual release of "something" could be greater? Who knows exactly... but WHY risk? You can be pretty sure that if you pierce a natural (not treated) cork, inside you'll find nature, not unknown chemistry. I can only suggest to anyone to read carefully the cork report & addendum with the infos gathered with KeroZen help, and then decide... at this point, at your own risk. If I vaporize, it's also for my health.
2- Avoid agglomerated cork.
Since the first cork prototypes were mine I feel somewhat responsible... so 2 things, again, then I'll not bother any more:
1- Yes, the material involved in the airflow path is near zero... it is the space that creates from the junction of the 2 SS tubes and the mesh. But there are also the 3 little holes, and there the contact and the eventual release of "something" could be greater? Who knows exactly... but WHY risk? You can be pretty sure that if you pierce a natural (not treated) cork, inside you'll find nature, not unknown chemistry. I can only suggest to anyone to read carefully the cork report & addendum with the infos gathered with KeroZen help, and then decide... at this point, at your own risk. If I vaporize, it's also for my health.
2- Avoid agglomerated cork.
rabblerouser
Combustion Fucker
interesting, well the neutrocork has already shipped, I'll probably try it out anyway. The article is interesting; I think the most important thing is how hot the cork actually gets. Will try the IR thermometer probably.
natural farmer
Well-Known Member
With back to back hits it will get HOT!