The "Project" DIY Herbal Vaporizer

[b0]

So just arrived home after work and...

Surprise! Shipping took only 5 days, pretty quick! I don't even have my VTC mini ready lol.

So I'm following this tutorial: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1o_yWMNGnUePDwj9bwGaI1Wu2g9siXI9oDciTnIIcxik/edit

I'm gonna flash the new firmware (never bottered to try this kind of things, I only use my VTC mini for my AC) and was wondering wich other steps should I follow after it. Just saw this from pipes:

Also note, a brand spanking new coil does need breaking in. If only trying to get to vaping temp without breaking in, it will appear the resistance is coming down some each heat up. Because it is... I give the new coils a couple good burst of 30 watts power mode to get a good bright glow for 2-3 seconds. Do not continue to repeat more than 3 times in a roll as will the heat build up will damage the nylon insulator. The resistance will then be stabilized.
Good stuff guys!

So I need to do a couple burst at 30 watts and then let it cool and settle to stabilize the resistance (damn, seems like I won't test it properly until tomorrow but want to set it up tonight) anything else that is not written in the manual? Any tips about calibrating temps?

Thanks guys, I'm a total noob in this boxmod world, but already thinking about buying and RDA and another modbox to make my own one hitter quitter!

 

[ander]

@b0 Hi! I think I was in the same trouble... are you still in "power mode"? You can't disable check there I guess... Only in "TCR mode".

Ehm, seems that my page needed a refresh.
Have fun!

 

[b0]

@b0 Hi! I think I was in the same trouble... are you still in "power mode"? You can't disable check there I guess... Only in "TCR mode".

Ehm, seems that my page needed a refresh.
Have fun!

Thanks mate! I was able to find that, my problem now is that temp is not estable and jumps around the temp I choose. Time to research...

If anyone can help would be apreciated!

 

[fluffhead]

So I need to do a couple burst at 30 watts and then let it cool and settle to stabilize the resistance (damn, seems like I won't test it properly until tomorrow but want to set it up tonight) anything else that is not written in the manual? Any tips about calibrating temps?

That is only when making new coils. He does that for each of our coils before sending it out to us. If I am not mistaken they should all be mostly broken in. I've seen a bit of change each time from initial cold resistance, but you don't need to do anything to break it in.

Tips on calibrating temps - it depends on what settings you have and which firmware you have. Some people artificially up the resistance to make it closer to "real" temps listed. Others use the modified myevic firmware and adjust the stated temperature on the coil. However, that is just for what the number is listed as. As well, I believe it has been found that a TCR setting of 180-185 gives the closest approximation of increasing or decreasing the right amount of temperature (if that makes sense). There are a lot smarter people here that know this better than me and can explain it better, but I wanted to get you a response to hold you over until a smart person can help you. If you have questions ask away. Many of us were new to box mods etc when we started so we know what its like starting out.

 

[b0]

That is only when making new coils. He does that for each of our coils before sending it out to us. If I am not mistaken they should all be mostly broken in. I've seen a bit of change each time from initial cold resistance, but you don't need to do anything to break it in.

Tips on calibrating temps - it depends on what settings you have and which firmware you have. Some people artificially up the resistance to make it closer to "real" temps listed. Others use the modified myevic firmware and adjust the stated temperature on the coil. However, that is just for what the number is listed as. As well, I believe it has been found that a TCR setting of 180-185 gives the closest approximation of increasing or decreasing the right amount of temperature (if that makes sense). There are a lot smarter people here that know this better than me and can explain it better, but I wanted to get you a response to hold you over until a smart person can help you. If you have questions ask away. Many of us were new to box mods etc when we started so we know what its like starting out.

Thanks for the help, I did 3 burst cause my coil was at 624. I'm using the myevic firmware following the FAQ but my problem now is the jumping temps

 

[fluffhead]

Thanks for the help, I did 3 burst cause my coil was at 624. I'm using the myevic firmware following the FAQ but my problem now is the jumping temps

What mod are you on? Have you locked the coil resistance?

On my cuboid the jumps around a bit but always around the chosen number.

Also, 0.624 seems high. I am curious if the bolt on the atomizer isn't tight enough. My resistance is always a bit high when that happens. In fact, I got my spare sf today and that was the case. Once tightened, the resistance stabilized.

 

[b0]

What mod are you on? Have you locked the coil resistance?

On my cuboid the jumps around a bit but always around the chosen number.

Also, 0.624 seems high. I am curious if the bolt on the atomizer isn't tight enough. My resistance is always a bit high when that happens. In fact, I got my spare sf today and that was the case. Once tightened, the resistance stabilized.

Now that you said this I really had to make an effort to put the SF (that I got today as well) because it didn't went in easily. Should I take it out, tighten it and retry? Maybe all my problems come from there...

I use a VTC mini with the FAQ configuration here: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1o_yWMNGnUePDwj9bwGaI1Wu2g9siXI9oDciTnIIcxik/edit

TCR 170 and tried at 60w and 30w

 

[fluffhead]

Now that you said this I really had to make an effort to put the SF (that I got today as well) because it didn't went in easily. Should I take it out, tighten it and retry? Maybe all my problems come from there...

I use a VTC mini with the FAQ configuration here: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1o_yWMNGnUePDwj9bwGaI1Wu2g9siXI9oDciTnIIcxik/edit

TCR 170 and tried at 60w and 30w

I think tightening everything inside would be a good idea. The screw at the bottom of the atty is attached to the bolt at the top keeping it all together.

I can't speak for evic but the cuboid with the myevic firmware, the temp doesn't just go to the listed number and it doesn't just stay still.

 

[Pipes]

My coil slided again. from .560 now it is read at .551 after a battery swap. I locked it there anyway and raised TCR to 200. Got a GREAT session around 190-200°C with wonderful taste & infinite vapor production from a very small dose, with perfect avb without even turning the stem or mixing the bowl so all it's going fine. But I wonder why the read still changes. I've done the "power mode" treatment at 30w...

A question on coil readings:
High ohms value = short atomizer, right? Got it when it was loose or touching the SS sleeve...
Low ohms value = ?...I knew it but...

Clean up the 510 connector with ISO and QTip. Any containment like finger grease can cause minor ohm fluctuations. And make sure it's screwed on tight.

Ohm fluctuations are generally connection issues as high current/low DC voltage causes some weird side effects when not tight. Higher voltage seems more forgiving in this regard for some reason.
Drifting below the known real value means something is shorting or touching somewhere it shouldn't be. If it be the coil, the ohms are going to be a constantly changing as the coil heats and expands. Thus, changing the pressure on the spot where it may be touching.
At room temp, ohms should stay put when everything is solid.

So just arrived home after work and...
Surprise! Shipping took only 5 days, pretty quick! I don't even have my VTC mini ready lol.

So I'm following this tutorial: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1o_yWMNGnUePDwj9bwGaI1Wu2g9siXI9oDciTnIIcxik/edit

I'm gonna flash the new firmware (never bottered to try this kind of things, I only use my VTC mini for my AC) and was wondering wich other steps should I follow after it. Just saw this from pipes:

So I need to do a couple burst at 30 watts and then let it cool and settle to stabilize the resistance (damn, seems like I won't test it properly until tomorrow but want to set it up tonight) anything else that is not written in the manual? Any tips about calibrating temps?

Thanks guys, I'm a total noob in this boxmod world, but already thinking about buying and RDA and another modbox to make my own one hitter quitter!

That is fast, specially going across the pond.
I did a couple pre-heats already so should be good that way.

You'll muddle through it.
Enjoy!

EDIT: Wow, missed lots while typing.
Sounds like @fluffhead has a handle on it.

 

[b0]

I think tightening everything inside would be a good idea. The screw at the bottom of the atty is attached to the bolt at the top keeping it all together.

I can't speak for evic but the cuboid with the myevic firmware, the temp doesn't just go to the listed number and it doesn't just stay still.

Ok so I tightened it and the coil made contact, untightened and got lose lol. So I tightened again and at some point I smelled something weird, a bit like plastic and got worried that I fucked it up, but want to think that is probably grease from my fingers or rests from the toothpic I used to get sure the coil doesn't make contact.

Temp jumps up/down around 10º to 15º, usually stays under the 10º fluctuating but sometimes it has crazy jumps like to 270º being set at 200º.

Edit: Decided to give it a go before going to bed, damn! 240º TCR 190 30w and I'm having amazing clouds with amazing flavour and the best of all, the ABV is incredible even!! People need to try this "project". Can't wait to put some more time to make it work even better!

Thanks a lot @Pipes !!

 

[fluffhead]

Ok so I tightened it and the coil made contact, untightened and got lose lol. So I tightened again and at some point I smelled something weird, a bit like plastic and got worried that I fucked it up, but want to think that is probably grease from my fingers or rests from the toothpic I used to get sure the coil doesn't make contact.

Temp jumps up/down around 10º to 15º, usually stays under the 10º fluctuating but sometimes it has crazy jumps like to 270º being set at 200º.

I am curious if you might have damaged the nylon insulator with your pulses. I have done that before. However, I know when I have touched the coil it burns the oils off and smells bad the next time I fire the atty. Could be either possibility or something I haven't thought of. I find the sf easier to deal with these issues because I can see inside and have more room for the coil.

For the temps, did you set the pid numbers like in the FAQ?

 

[Pipes]

usually stays under the 10º fluctuating but sometimes it has crazy jumps like to 270º being set at 200º.

This is that preheat we have discussed. Only from a cold start right?
Your running the myevic, so do the PID thing with a high P.
P= 1600 I = 80 and D = 0, will slow down the heat up and kill preheat.

And yes, go slow, continuous glow and watching can do in the insulator. Once all is set, you will be feeding airflow through it so this becomes less of a concern. Can be memorizing watching it, so easy to do. I think most users end up finding this out.

 

[b0]

I am curious if you might have damaged the nylon insulator with your pulses. I have done that before. However, I know when I have touched the coil it burns the oils off and smells bad the next time I fire the atty. Could be either possibility or something I haven't thought of. I find the sf easier to deal with these issues because I can see inside and have more room for the coil.

For the temps, did you set the pid numbers like in the FAQ?

Yep I set PID like in the FAQ, but after reading this:

This is that preheat we have discussed. Only from a cold start right?
Your running the myevic, so do the PID thing with a high P.
P= 1600 I = 80 and D = 0, will slow down the heat up and kill preheat.

I changed them again to this one and seems more stable, but it's really late here and will have to wait to playing more until tomorrow after work.

Just had a few hits at TCR 190, 240º, 30w fixed at 600 with latest PID from Pipes and I still can't believe how good this things performs...

And it's really cool seeing the coil sligtly glowing while vaping!

 

[b0]

Sorry for back to back mods, no chance to edit prior post. Feel free to merge, thanks!

Checked resistance before going to work and is a bit high 638. I guess it's because I need to tighten properly the nut, yesterday I didn't have anything to hold the nut in place and was difficult to tighten the lower bolt.

As soon as I finish job today I will try to take care of that.

Wanted to ask as well how I know if the nylon insulator has been compromised?

 

[ander]

Sorry for back to back mods, no chance to edit prior post. Feel free to merge, thanks!

Checked resistance before going to work and is a bit high 638. I guess it's because I need to tighten properly the nut, yesterday I didn't have anything to hold the nut in place and was difficult to tighten the lower bolt.

As soon as I finish job today I will try to take care of that.

Wanted to ask as well how I know if the nylon insulator has been compromised?

Always a hassle for me too. But I found that is more "simple" to hold the lower head with the screwdriver and tightening the upper bolt with the 5mm wrench...
For the insulators... you are not so high with the reading to think of a short of that kind... My very humble opinion!

 

[ander]

Well I hope all is going well up there..!

The prototype seemed a carbonized piece of nicely extruded shit, no?

Here it is after some modeling and a coat of water based varnish. Light and indestructible...

Bye!

 

[b0]

When I go to the higher temps to finisha load the coil gets lightly red glowing TCR 190, 240º, 60w fixed at 600 with latest PID from Pipes. Just wanted to check if that's normal? I'm worried about damaging the coil, obviuously when I hit it at that temps it stays glowin a low red for as long as I take the hit (15-20 secs)

Is that ok?

 

[Pipes]

No problem as you are inhaling, thus drawing in cooler air around the lower section.
It's only a concern when observing it without airflow.

When I was playing with concentrates in it, I had it glowing quite brightly for the full 15 seconds. Had no problems at all.

 

[Joaon]

Just tried to play with PIDs .. Way more instant and stable now !

I started with last Pipe's ones : P= 1600 I = 80 and D = 0
and played with, after seing that:

Now I'm at : P=1850 I=200 D=10 , 190°C - TCR 185 - 75w - .600Ω Locked ,
and it's pretty quick and stable !


2 secs heat up to 190°c, and it stabilize itself around 30w - 10A max.


There is some hot spots on higher temperatures, but I'm waiting my dremel grinder to comes by.
I will then grind the coil SS sleeve holes, to create a sort of turbine/turbulences .. We'll see ..


Not had the pluck yet to tinker the coil /make my own. I'll try soon maybe
I would love to see some rig, for constant & perfects results !


I don't use the Eraser that much, as VapCap(s!) are pretty efficient and my Daily Driver,
but when I do, Oh My Gosh!
It doesn't even try to understand. Do you want 190°c ? Okay. Boom.


I'll definitively try some low terpenoids temps tomorrow morning, without any Vapcap in sight..

 

[natural farmer]

Well I hope all is going well up there..!


The prototype seemed a carbonized piece of nicely extruded shit, no?

Here it is after some modeling and a coat of water based varnish. Light and indestructible...

Bye!

May I say I love it???

Just tried to play with PIDs .. Way more instant and stable now !

I started with last Pipe's ones : P= 1600 I = 80 and D = 0
and played with, after seing that:

Now I'm at : P=1850 I=200 D=10 , 190°C - TCR 185 - 75w - .600Ω Locked ,
and it's pretty quick and stable !


2 secs heat up to 190°c, and it stabilize itself around 30w - 10A max.


There is some hot spots on higher temperatures, but I'm waiting my dremel grinder to comes by.
I will then grind the coil SS sleeve holes, to create a sort of turbine/turbulences .. We'll see ..


Not had the pluck yet to tinker the coil /make my own. I'll try soon maybe
I would love to see some rig, for constant & perfects results !


I don't use the Eraser that much, as VapCap(s!) are pretty efficient and my Daily Driver,
but when I do, Oh My Gosh!
It doesn't even try to understand. Do you want 190°c ? Okay. Boom.


I'll definitively try some low terpenoids temps tomorrow morning, without any Vapcap in sight..

Omnivap has also taken over as my daily tool, that ritual and feel is hard to beat and I love the vapor signature, but Eraser is always there to spice things up!

Have I mentioned Knight v2 is here as well? Pics later! Fit is tight but it works. Slightly bigger than Pico but still much smaller than Milaana and in general a match made in heaven for the Eraser! I don't see it coming off often... Not practical anyways since it's pretty tight in there. Need to find a case... Shaves a lot of total height! Eraser is really stealthy now! Great build quality! Algorithms work good enough. No resistanse lock. One of my Erasers reads at .47Ω and the other one is at .52Ω (every mod reads them differently... ) so I have one TCR M for every built. The .47Ω built needs a TCR of 340 and the .52Ω one just 210 for the temps to be relevant. M3, M2 respectively... Screen is small but great and very readable. I totally recommend it so far but still more testing to be done!
Bonus is that the Talos tank that came with the Knight v2 is not bad for a noob in e-cigs like me and wow, I blow clouds like a volcano with it on my Pico and some VG juice!

I think I feel pretty complete now vape-wise...
Omni, Eraser, e-cig, Milaana for back up and special cases... VAS is weak in me...

 

[Pipes]

Just tried to play with PIDs .. Way more instant and stable now !
I started with last Pipe's ones : P= 1600 I = 80 and D = 0
and played with, after seing that:

Now I'm at : P=1850 I=200 D=10 , 190°C - TCR 185 - 75w - .600Ω Locked ,
and it's pretty quick and stable !

I like this visual.

I punched in your PID numbers but left my TCR at 185, and I'm using temp offset method instead of manual ohms manipulation to alter displayed temperature. I also have the boost turned to 15%.
Here's the result. Very stable. Thanks @Joaon!! You should also add your visual aid and PID to the firmware discussion thread.

 

[b0]

I like this visual.

I punched in your PID numbers but left my TCR at 185, and I'm using temp offset method instead of manual ohms manipulation to alter displayed temperature. I also have the boost turned to 15%.
Here's the result. Very stable. Thanks @Joaon!! You should also add your visual aid and PID to the firmware discussion thread.

How does this temp offset method work?

 

[EmDeemo]

It aint stealthy but for home use, I am LOVING the rx2/3. Battery life with three batteries is phenomenal. Its a bit weighty, but considering I use it mostly at the PC desk, its not really a problem. Two batteries and it fits perfectly in my coat pocket Also, its heft makes it a suitable self defence weapon!

Downsides are I'm not so keen on the battery compartment and the battery swap. This is a case of yanking them out, so to speak, whereas the cuboid (and coming pico) has the batteries just sliding out. Less chance of the battery sleeves getting chunks taken out of them.

 

[Pipes]

How does this temp offset method work?

I'm using the modified myevic prepared by @m0qu4.

Hi guys,

here is an updated version of the firmware. The changes made are

* fix bug of loosing shift value when the mod is switched off/batteries removed
* fix bug on rx23/wismec not displaying the shifted value
* set shift value up to 100 for celsius and 200 for farenheit. increase by 1 or 5 depending of selection celsius or farenheit
* when you change from one to another, the shift value is zeroed. this avoids taking over a value >100 from farenheit to celsius, and also a value which is not %5 from celsius to farenheit
* when firing, display shifted value (temp-shift) only if the result is >0, if not show only temp. this avoids values <0 at the beginning of firing

http://ge.tt/4nkKJPi2

Kind regards

Difference is you can leave the ohms alone but still lock it after a good read.
Work the mod like we were initially with the stock evic fw. Note what number values are showing in display for your build. Likely in the 500sF.
Now to make the number be whatever you want. Let's say display is showing 500F and that's where you decide it feels like 370F.
So you need an off set of 500-370 or 130. Now go into expert settings and you'll see a new line in this FW version for offset. Go in there and change to 130. Now when you exit, the display will show 130 less than what it's actually set for.

What I particularly like, is it brings down the max temperature limit by the dame amount. It will stop at 470F instead of 600.
Same procedure for Celsius.

 

[EmDeemo]

Big list of side by side/stealth mods...

https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/threads/listing-side-by-side-mods.706607/page-2

This is my favourite, homemade tho -