The "Project" DIY Herbal Vaporizer

[Joaon]

ModBox: Evic Vtc Mini
The chuncks comes from the 'airflow holes' part, passing thru the SS inner tube, the heater;
and some from the 'bowl' part. Anyhow, a gentle brushing seems to resolve that;
Wood bodies would appear me much more 'safe'



Now I'm at TCR 160, 50w, .58Ω, 180 - 200 °C :

Current stem: Council Of Vapor Vengeance Drip Tip !

Additional external airflow can be added - Cotton fiber filter

Micro dose bowl!

Edit: It seals very well with 14mm Lab joint !

 

[EmDeemo]

I found draw speed can make a big difference to the likelihood of hot spots and combustion. But as I've said before, my coil is all wonky

ModBox: Evic Vtc Mini

Now I'm at TCR 160, 50w, .58Ω, 180 - 200 °C :

Current stem: Council Of Vapor Vengeance Drip Tip !

Additional external airflow can be added - Cotton fiber filter

Micro dose bowl!

I like your stem, sir!

 

[KeroZen]

@natural farmer : I followed you on the Gearbest deal, hope we don't get fake ones....

I feel it kicks hard on my single Listman 3000mAh 40A batterie.. 'Weak Battery' signal pretty often!

That's not good at all. For one your cell is crap and not what it reads on the label. You have no idea what its real discharge rate is and if you get weak battery it's a clear sign you are way past its real C rating and it's sagging too much under load.

Stop using that crap ASAP and get real cells from one of the 3 manufacturers (LG, Samsung, Sony) Nearly all reported catastrophic e-cig accidents were with crap rewrapped cells of that kind. Those things are seriously dangerous I don't think you realize that well enough.

 

[marduk]

Got my Eraser today! Thank you @Pipes

I had the ohms drifting between .473 to .650, so I did a little toothpick adjusting to separate a couple of windings, and ended up with a very stable .579 ohms.

I'm using the firmware posted by @m0qu4 in the Bulli thread so I haven't adjusted ohms, I've just entered the offset as -20 for now. And I'm keeping the temp readings in C although I'm used to F because I can change temps in single degree increments instead of 5 degrees if using F. I know it's not a 1-to-1 conversion, but it's still finer control while I'm getting things set up.

So my settings right now after playing around a bit are:

TCR 170
P 1350
I 400
D 0
60 watts
.579 ohms
-20 offset on temp display (this is just a straight numerical offset, not degrees)
Timeout 25 seconds

These settings work great for me. No combustion so far, pretty even browning, and Clouds galore! I cannot overpower the heater with a fast draw... The only thing that is a little off is the temp overshoots by up to 30c with some oscillation before settling down. I tried lowering the watts but that threw vapor production off. I guess I'll delve into the TCR and PID adjustments tomorrow to see if I can get a more consistent initial temp.

The Eraser is most excellent!


edit: I'm using a VTC Mini. Just swapped out the battery and discovered that the offset setting got reset to 00. That's a bummer. I know the VTwo Mini has an internal battery that keeps the clock running, so maybe that mod would maintain the offset setting during battery swaps?

 

[EmDeemo]

Got my Eraser today! Thank you @Pipes

I had the ohms drifting between .473 to .650, so I did a little toothpick adjusting to separate a couple of windings, and ended up with a very stable .579 ohms.

I'm using the firmware posted by @m0qu4 in the Bulli thread so I haven't adjusted ohms, I've just entered the offset as -20 for now. And I'm keeping the temp readings in C although I'm used to F because I can change temps in single degree increments instead of 5 degrees if using F. I know it's not a 1-to-1 conversion, but it's still finer control while I'm getting things set up.

So my settings right now after playing around a bit are:

TCR 170
P 1350
I 400
D 0
60 watts
.579 ohms
-20 offset on temp display (this is just a straight numerical offset, not degrees)
Timeout 25 seconds

These settings work great for me. No combustion so far, pretty even browning, and Clouds galore! I cannot overpower the heater with a fast draw... The only thing that is a little off is the temp overshoots by up to 30c with some oscillation before settling down. I tried lowering the watts but that threw vapor production off. I guess I'll delve into the TCR and PID adjustments tomorrow to see if I can get a more consistent initial temp.

The Eraser is most excellent!

We're on very similar settings but I'm using the myevic firmware, 15 second time out. Ohms locked at 0.581, so very close to yours. I was on 60w for a while but now using 80. It now gets to the right temp a lot quicker, but obviously, theres a load of variables to go through and see what works best for you

Enjoy

EDIT: Why the offset?

 

[marduk]

EDIT: Why the offset?

It's just so the temp displayed is closer to actual temps without having to bump up the ohms to trick the mod into displaying lower temps. IMO it's a more straightforward approach to the same end. The firmware is still myevic, it was just modified to enable the offset and a longer timeout.

 

[Pipes]

ModBox: Evic Vtc Mini
The chuncks comes from the 'airflow holes' part, passing thru the SS inner tube, the heater;
and some from the 'bowl' part. Anyhow, a gentle brushing seems to resolve that;
Wood bodies would appear me much more 'safe'


Current stem: Council Of Vapor Vengeance Drip Tip !

Additional external airflow can be added - Cotton fiber filter


Micro dose bowl!

Edit: It seals very well with 14mm Lab joint !

Love that stem. Does it take a 510 tip as well? Glad you got it going without any real problems. It's a fun game setting it up just the way "you" like it. IMO, that's part of what makes it great. Everyone draws differently and for longer or shorter times. Some draw faster at the start while others tend to accelerate into it. All to be tinkered with to match. A VAS to WAS, I believe it was called earlier.

Those red specks are from loose edges around the holes and elsewhere. You may also discover the odd white spec or film as well. This would be wax, also from the molding process. The inside mold is a wax duplicate of the master. I melt it out in the oven and then boil to clean out the wax.
This is followed with a few pass overs using a QTip with soap and water. Problem is when wet the stuff looks clean and hard to see. Thus, a few pass overs after drying. To improve this, I have now made up a few with an added process of spraying the wax duplicates with a coating of lacquer first. Seems to ease the process some as now do not need to boil. The wax pulls out in a thin film without breaking into little pieces. Much easier, not perfect but better.
These are not made in a factory and there are going to be blemishes and minor defects but I try and have a reasonable QC line drawn in that regard. Trust me, I have lots of units that did not pass for numerous reasons.
The Eraser takes time to get broken in some. The coil needs a few heat ups to settle in as well. Over time the stem will not be so tight and gets comfortable for insertions. The edges will round up, as well, evening out any rim blemishes.

Got my Eraser today! Thank you @Pipes

I had the ohms drifting between .473 to .650, so I did a little toothpick adjusting to separate a couple of windings, and ended up with a very stable .579 ohms.

edit: I'm using a VTC Mini. Just swapped out the battery and discovered that the offset setting got reset to 00. That's a bummer. I know the VTwo Mini has an internal battery that keeps the clock running, so maybe that mod would maintain the offset setting during battery swaps?

Perfect. The old toothpick trick you say, good job!

Yeah, the temperature offset didn't hold in @m0qu4's initial firmware. He had sent me an updated version that holds but had a 50 degree limit. I actually discovered it is in degrees. If you let say have your temp set at 500 and go to his offset adjustment and punch in 50, then when you exit, your display will say 450. Also, the upper limit will stop at 550 instead of 600. Being meaning to ask him if he could rise it to 200. Would like to see 450 being the old 600F. Guess I just did...?
Went back to upping ohms. For now anyway.

 

[natural farmer]

@Joaon , @marduk welcome to Project Land!

It takes some fiddling but I am sure you'll find your sweet spots soon! Personally I am more than happy with the stock firmware on my Pico and the very simple settings. My coil reading has settled to .48Ω somehow, down from .56Ω initially, when cold and with the slightest touch of the power button it goes to .51Ω so I locked it there, lowered the TCR to 145, power at 75W and I now I have very consistent temps and getting vapor from 170°C up to 230°C where it's too close to combustion if I draw slowly. I usually go for 200°C with a slow to medium draw these days so that my session is not that short and hot for the throat or that long so my throat hurts from extended hot vapor exposure. After every hit I just turn the stem a quarter of a turn and usually when it gets to its original position after 4 hits it's time for a final stir and two more lighter toasty hits. Super uniform ABV, less than 10" draws, vapor bliss!

As for the silicone bits on the sleeve, I had some imperfections myself and that's why I had to remove the SS tube and remove some bits that blocked some holes and clean it a little. Not a biggie! For a hand made silicone sleeve I am amazed that it's even that0 clean and perfect... Kudos to @Pipes! I am envisioning a day when each of us has a plastic mold in hand and we can make our own sleeves easily if something goes wrong!

@Joaon , I agree on the batteries. Get some genuine ones. I only start to get a weak battery signal with my LG HG2's when they are down to 3.80Vs but they still do the job until 3.60V or something. I usually don't push them so hard and swap them when I see the weak battery signal. I hope they last more this way. I also don't charge them more than 4.1V.

@KeroZen, let's hope it's not a fake but why someone make a fake Smoant? Are they such best sellers? I still haven't got an answer from fasttech about the refund, have you?

 

[virtualpurple]

Love seeing all these people joining up! I'm hoping to rejoin the ranks as soon as my turn in line comes around (and assuming I get brave enough with recent developments in job opportunities).

 

[fluffhead]

First of all, welcome to the new projecteers!

Second, I wanted to share the information of how my roller coaster ride continues. As previously stated, I had issues and pipes helped me with building a new coil. Unfortunately, that coil had an unfortunate quirk where the crossover wire was under the top loop, instead of being at the top. This created a major halo effect, where the outside of the bowl was well done and the middle was totally green.

@Pipes was very supportive and gave me advice on how to try and correct it. Being that I am unskilled at fixing coils, it didn't go well. Eventually, a piece of the coil snapped. This led me to need to start over with a new wire, which was a blessing in disguise. One lesson I learned is how much easier it is to work with a new piece of coil as opposed to trying to rework a coil that has been broken in. The new coil actually came out ok. Not as nice or even as pipes, but I was happy with it.

I am now having issues with drifting cold resistance numbers. Sometimes when I turn on the mod, the cold resistance says as low as .508 while sometimes it is as high as .540. Not sure what I should do with it at this point but it mostly works. Still tinkering and figuring it out. Hopefully I'll get consistency at some point. Until then, the ride continues...

 

[Copacetic]

Hi guys,
I'm joining in here with a (sorta) 'Project' that I'm attempting from parts I have lying around.

Since I only had kanthal wire, and wanted to take advantage of the temp' control modes on my new GearBest Smoant Knight V2, I used the only stainless steel I had laying around which is in the form of little squares that I originally bought for SS wicks in an e-cig RDA.
The mesh is 400, and I used it to make a 'zig-zag' ribbon inside a modified Twisted Messes RDA (this has settled at a steady 0.87 Ohms) .
The huge 'chuff cap' mouthpiece of the Twisted Mess allows me to use a piece of bamboo as a stem.

After a lot of fiddly folding I'm delighted to report that the SS mesh works brilliantly, and I can get great results in VW mode @ 50 to 60 Watts.
This is despite the 10 second cutoff (wish this parameter was variable though).

But I think I need some advice re' TC mode (I'm a total noob to TC)
I used TCR M1 and fixed watts at 50 (took me a while to work out how to fix the wattage in TCR mode ).
I then set temperature at the lowest possible (100 C) and the TCR in the middle of the values recommended in the instruction booklet (150 - 160, so I used 155).

When I fire the mod the mesh went straight to glowing red within around 3-5 seconds, and stays glowing

I decide to explore the effect of the different TCR settings, as I assumed the mesh might be somewhat different to the SS wire you guys are using.
Tried TCR 70 (still set to 50W), and TCR 700 too, but my 'coil' always just goes straight to glowing and doesn't seem to be regulating at all .

I was expecting it to pulse itself to maintain temp', but that doesn't seem to be happening.

Is there something obvious that I'm missing?

If anyone understands what I'm doing wrong can you please point me in the right direction?

BTW, I'll post pic's as soon as I overcome some IT difficulties.

 

[natural farmer]

Hi guys,
I'm joining in here with a (sorta) 'Project' that I'm attempting from parts I have lying around.

Since I only had kanthal wire, and wanted to take advantage of the temp' control modes on my new GearBest Smoant Knight V2, I used the only stainless steel I had laying around which is in the form of little squares that I originally bought for SS wicks in an e-cig RDA.
The mesh is 400, and I used it to make a 'zig-zag' ribbon inside a modified Twisted Messes RDA (this has settled at a steady 0.87 Ohms) .
The huge 'chuff cap' mouthpiece of the Twisted Mess allows me to use a piece of bamboo as a stem.

After a lot of fiddly folding I'm delighted to report that the SS mesh works brilliantly, and I can get great results in VW mode @ 50 to 60 Watts.
This is despite the 10 second cutoff (wish this parameter was variable though).

But I think I need some advice re' TC mode (I'm a total noob to TC)
I used TCR M1 and fixed watts at 50 (took me a while to work out how to fix the wattage in TCR mode ).
I then set temperature at the lowest possible (100 C) and the TCR in the middle of the values recommended in the instruction booklet (150 - 160, so I used 155).

When I fire the mod the mesh went straight to glowing red within around 3-5 seconds, and stays glowing

I decide to explore the effect of the different TCR settings, as I assumed the mesh might be somewhat different to the SS wire you guys are using.
Tried TCR 70 (still set to 50W), and TCR 700 too, but my 'coil' always just goes straight to glowing and doesn't seem to be regulating at all .

I was expecting it to pulse itself to maintain temp', but that doesn't seem to be happening.

Is there something obvious that I'm missing?

If anyone understands what I'm doing wrong can you please point me in the right direction?

BTW, I'll post pic's as soon as I overcome some IT difficulties.

Oh man! Some pics would sure be helpful... Can't imagine what you did there. Have you already gotten your Knight 2? When did you order? Pics, pics, pics!!!

EDIT: Second Eraser packed and ready to come to daddy! First vape I ever got two of!!!

 

[EmDeemo]

First of all, welcome to the new projecteers!

Second, I wanted to share the information of how my roller coaster ride continues. As previously stated, I had issues and pipes helped me with building a new coil. Unfortunately, that coil had an unfortunate quirk where the crossover wire was under the top loop, instead of being at the top. This created a major halo effect, where the outside of the bowl was well done and the middle was totally green.

@Pipes was very supportive and gave me advice on how to try and correct it. Being that I am unskilled at fixing coils, it didn't go well. Eventually, a piece of the coil snapped. This led me to need to start over with a new wire, which was a blessing in disguise. One lesson I learned is how much easier it is to work with a new piece of coil as opposed to trying to rework a coil that has been broken in. The new coil actually came out ok. Not as nice or even as pipes, but I was happy with it.

I am now having issues with drifting cold resistance numbers. Sometimes when I turn on the mod, the cold resistance says as low as .508 while sometimes it is as high as .540. Not sure what I should do with it at this point but it mostly works. Still tinkering and figuring it out. Hopefully I'll get consistency at some point. Until then, the ride continues...

Everything all screwed in tight? Once I'd got mine working right for the first time, I locked everything and havent taken the Eraser off since just to make sure nothing can get loose or jiggle about.

Hi guys,
I'm joining in here with a (sorta) 'Project' that I'm attempting from parts I have lying around.

Since I only had kanthal wire, and wanted to take advantage of the temp' control modes on my new GearBest Smoant Knight V2, I used the only stainless steel I had laying around which is in the form of little squares that I originally bought for SS wicks in an e-cig RDA.
The mesh is 400, and I used it to make a 'zig-zag' ribbon inside a modified Twisted Messes RDA (this has settled at a steady 0.87 Ohms) .
The huge 'chuff cap' mouthpiece of the Twisted Mess allows me to use a piece of bamboo as a stem.

After a lot of fiddly folding I'm delighted to report that the SS mesh works brilliantly, and I can get great results in VW mode @ 50 to 60 Watts.
This is despite the 10 second cutoff (wish this parameter was variable though).

But I think I need some advice re' TC mode (I'm a total noob to TC)
I used TCR M1 and fixed watts at 50 (took me a while to work out how to fix the wattage in TCR mode ).
I then set temperature at the lowest possible (100 C) and the TCR in the middle of the values recommended in the instruction booklet (150 - 160, so I used 155).

When I fire the mod the mesh went straight to glowing red within around 3-5 seconds, and stays glowing

I decide to explore the effect of the different TCR settings, as I assumed the mesh might be somewhat different to the SS wire you guys are using.
Tried TCR 70 (still set to 50W), and TCR 700 too, but my 'coil' always just goes straight to glowing and doesn't seem to be regulating at all .

I was expecting it to pulse itself to maintain temp', but that doesn't seem to be happening.

Is there something obvious that I'm missing?

If anyone understands what I'm doing wrong can you please point me in the right direction?

BTW, I'll post pic's as soon as I overcome some IT difficulties.

Hmmm, could this be the algorithm kicking in? Is it off or on PID? Is that a thing with the mod you've got?

I think I might be pissing in the wind here and we should wait for a more intelligent, informed trouble shooter

It takes some fiddling but I am sure you'll find your sweet spots soon! Personally I am more than happy with the stock firmware on my Pico and the very simple settings. My coil reading has settled to .48Ω somehow, down from .56Ω initially, when cold and with the slightest touch of the power button it goes to .51Ω so I locked it there, lowered the TCR to 145, power at 75W and I now I have very consistent temps and getting vapor from 170°C up to 230°C where it's too close to combustion if I draw slowly. I usually go for 200°C with a slow to medium draw these days so that my session is not that short and hot for the throat or that long so my throat hurts from extended hot vapor exposure. After every hit I just turn the stem a quarter of a turn and usually when it gets to its original position after 4 hits it's time for a final stir and two more lighter toasty hits. Super uniform ABV, less than 10" draws, vapor bliss!

This is pretty much where I am now. We have different settings but our temps are pretty much the same, same with the ABV and less than 10 second draws. Im rarely going the full 15 second time out now, getting full on flavour nearly all the way through a bowl. And let me tell you folks, my bowl is 'UGE! Tremendously 'UGE, just the bestest bowl. A turn of the stem helps make up for my still ever so slightly wonky coil.

The thick mouthfuls of flavour are still a constant surprise. Things have finally settled at Chez Deemo, vapcap is for crazy quick massive bong rip hits with my D020, and the Eraser is the all day, daily driver for long vapes by the pool (I say pool, its just a small bowl of water that the cat drinks out of).

Vapcap for shots, Eraser for a long relaxing drink

 

[Copacetic]

Everything all screwed in tight? Once I'd got mine working right for the first time, I locked everything and havent taken the Eraser off since just to make sure nothing can get loose or jiggle about.



Hmmm, could this be the algorithm kicking in? Is it off or on PID? Is that a thing with the mod you've got?

I think I might be pissing in the wind here and we should wait for a more intelligent, informed trouble shooter



This is pretty much where I am now. We have different settings but our temps are pretty much the same, same with the ABV and less than 10 second draws. Im rarely going the full 15 second time out now, getting full on flavour nearly all the way through a bowl. And let me tell you folks, my bowl is 'UGE! Tremendously 'UGE, just the bestest bowl. A turn of the stem helps make up for my still ever so slightly wonky coil.

The thick mouthfuls of flavour are still a constant surprise. Things have finally settled at Chez Deemo, vapcap is for crazy quick massive bong rip hits with my D020, and the Eraser is the all day, daily driver for long vapes by the pool (I say pool, its just a small bowl of water that the cat drinks out of).

Vapcap for shots, Eraser for a long relaxing drink

Not sure I follow
The PID doesn't seem to kick in at all, as the mesh goes straight to red hot without any regulation despite being in TCR mode (at both extremes of the TCR range, and in middle).

I expected to be able to set a low temp such as 100C and see the coil ( mesh ribbon in my case) stay well below red heat.
The TCR settings seem to make no difference to this behaviour.

I'm not sure what to try next, any suggestions?

 

[Pipes]

It's the mesh. I never had luck using mesh myself neither. Even those notch coils out there don't seem to be TC friendly.
Problem is the resistance doesn't change enough to ever hit the set temp. Maybe try setting the TCR extremely low might help.

 

[EmDeemo]

Told ya I shoulda kept quiet

Another thing I'm finding that is just awesome with the Eraser... When the screen starts to get clogged, I can whack the temp up on an empty bowl and get massive tasty hits of reclaim Currently on 270c on an empty bowl and hitting some nice big clouds

 

[fluffhead]

Everything all screwed in tight? Once I'd got mine working right for the first time, I locked everything and havent taken the Eraser off since just to make sure nothing can get loose or jiggle about.

Good question, it was all screwed in tight. I had trouble previously, and that is one issue (among many) that I have learned about. I still need to buy a 5mm socket wrench.

@Pipes helped me determine that there was a short at the lower element touching the post. When looking at the atomizer, it looked to me like I had overtightened at some point and the white piece at the bottom was very pushed in. It was at that point I determined that I needed to rebuild from scratch. I also ended up making a new coil because I had trouble resetting up my old coil on the newly remade atomizer.

In the end this all seemed to work well because I have a coil that is running a consistent .551 cold resistance. The shape is highly imperfect so stem turning is needed. For a non-diy person, I am pretty proud of having taken the whole thing apart and put it back together. Thanks for the help pipes!

Question: Is this the pico that I should be looking for? It seem project acquisition syndrome has hit me. Going to fasttech isn't safe for me anymore.

 

[EmDeemo]

Good question, it was all screwed in tight. I had trouble previously, and that is one issue (among many) that I have learned about. I still need to buy a 5mm socket wrench.

@Pipes helped me determine that there was a short at the lower element touching the post. When looking at the atomizer, it looked to me like I had overtightened at some point and the white piece at the bottom was very pushed in. It was at that point I determined that I needed to rebuild from scratch. I also ended up making a new coil because I had trouble resetting up my old coil on the newly remade atomizer.

In the end this all seemed to work well because I have a coil that is running a consistent .551 cold resistance. The shape is highly imperfect so stem turning is needed. For a non-diy person, I am pretty proud of having taken the whole thing apart and put it back together. Thanks for the help pipes!

Question: Is this the pico that I should be looking for? It seem project acquisition syndrome has hit me. Going to fasttech isn't safe for me anymore.

MAS!

Yeah, same, I learned a fuck of a lot taking it apart and putting it back together. Empowerment! I've slowly and carefully fiddled with my very imperfect coil, finding which bit was causing the heat concentration and just spreading that bit of the coil out with a pair of tweezers to get things a bit more even. I still stir or turn for completions sake tho. One day I'll get round to making a better coil but until this one breaks, it works just fine The trickiest bit for me was definitely that little white washer bit!

Are you getting that incredible taste the Eraser provides?

 

[Pipes]

Question: Is this the pico that I should be looking for? It seem project acquisition syndrome has hit me. Going to fasttech isn't safe for me anymore.

That would be the one. The red one sure looks pink to me though. Not the colour @natural farmer showed...?

Agreed about FF visits. Always end up throwing something in the cart. Keep an eye on stock levels as if one is waiting restocking, it holds up the whole order. Just split your order, no charge. Also, keep batteries on a separate order as they ship them via a different route usually. Another tip is to always check the shipping options. Discovered for me an option for Canada packet for an addition 90 cents. Cuts shipping down to 2 weeks with a valid Canada post tracking number from the start. Huge improvement from the 1 1/2 month wait....

 

[nosmoking]

Has anyone figured out how to change the timeout on the Pico? Is there firmware that can be put on the Pico to allow this to be adjusted?

 

[EmDeemo]

Another stealth model that seems to fit...

https://www.fasttech.com/products/3024/10024651/6109502 -

Hey @Pipes , think your coil would fit in this tank? Seems like it can be taken apart enough? (tank talk starts at 21 minutes into the video) EDIT: My question makes no practical sense now I've thought it through -

And then theres this... Dual batteries and stealth. Can anyone see anything about this that DOESNT work for Eraser use?

http://www.movkin.com/Disguiser.html

Actually the Movkin looks cheap to me, and pretty big! No USB either, so no option of firmware updates.

 

[natural farmer]

Question: Is this the pico that I should be looking for? It seem project acquisition syndrome has hit me. Going to fasttech isn't safe for me anymore.

Mod Acquisition Syndrome is real I am afraid... I was so happy VAS was weakening but....

I was actually lucky to be shown this one at my local shop, the new all-black version which I think is more beautiful than the one with the silver details but tastes are tastes, right?

Has anyone figured out how to change the timeout on the Pico? Is there firmware that can be put on the Pico to allow this to be adjusted?

The "myevic" firmware doesn't support it but I am not sure about that "arctic firefox" one that has been mentioned.... Although I think once you get more comfortable with the project you won't need more than 10secs and you can always pulse the button for longer lungbusters!

Another stealth model that seems to fit...

https://www.fasttech.com/products/3024/10024651/6109502 -

Hey @Pipes , think your coil would fit in this tank? Seems like it can be taken apart enough? (tank talk starts at 21 minutes into the video) EDIT: My question makes no practical sense now I've thought it through -

And then theres this... Dual batteries and stealth. Can anyone see anything about this that DOESNT work for Eraser use?

http://www.movkin.com/Disguiser.html

Actually the Movkin looks cheap to me, and pretty big! No USB either, so no option of firmware updates.

Both are interesting mods but not sure if they have TCR...

 

[EmDeemo]

Both are interesting mods but not sure if they have TCR...

Thank fuck for that. My MAS stays under control... for now!

 

[m0qu4]

Hi guys,

here is an updated version of the firmware. The changes made are

* fix bug of loosing shift value when the mod is switched off/batteries removed
* fix bug on rx23/wismec not displaying the shifted value
* set shift value up to 100 for celsius and 200 for farenheit. increase by 1 or 5 depending of selection celsius or farenheit
* when you change from one to another, the shift value is zeroed. this avoids taking over a value >100 from farenheit to celsius, and also a value which is not %5 from celsius to farenheit
* when firing, display shifted value (temp-shift) only if the result is >0, if not show only temp. this avoids values <0 at the beginning of firing

http://ge.tt/4nkKJPi2

Kind regards

 

[ander]

It might be a good idea to start a thread related the firmware where information can be pooled

and maybe a thread releated to those fashion Mods these MAS infected guys are spreading around..?