The "Project" DIY Herbal Vaporizer

[virtualpurple]

@natural farmer it has been almost as much fun watching you dive into the project as it has been for me to dive in myself. I have not yet had a stab at winding my own coils or anything like that, I've just been relying on @Pipes to do his magnificent work.

On a side note, I'm seeing people flash their own images onto the cuboid...is anyone able to send me a link how to do that myself? I'd love to create or have some bob's burgers art on mine (I have no idea why, I just love the show)

 

[natural farmer]

I actually called them the stacked pancake coil
@natural farmer I use 8.5" of 22 ga 316L SS wire to make a coil, calculates to be 34 watts using a 18650 battery

Maybe "stacked stove-top" is a more fitting name just to speak the same lingo with the ecig guys...

Thank you so much Ryan for the stacked idea but I am not sure what you mean that it calculates at 34W... Mine ended up being 0.47Ω. I throw 100W at it for a quick heat up (1-2" but I usually start drawing fast the moment I press the button) at TCR190 at this point and temps seem to be near real world. 10" hits are more than enough!
And it's a hard built! Wow, I am amazed at your results man! Kudos!!! Special jigs or just proper hand/tool technique?
I ll try again for sure and also want to experiment with more designs and ideas. Really fun!!!

 

[mistvaporizer]

First I'm not Ryan! I try to just stick with my FC handle but I'm Dave
I don't have the formula handy (I'm on vacation ) but it is something like divide the voltage of the battery by the ohms and multiply that by the amps and it gives you the wattage rating, I can post it next week but I'm sure someone else has it. Someone in the mist thread posted it a while ago.
I don't want to speak ecig lingo but you can, I don't mind.
Yes the build is hard, I spent a long time figuring out how to do it. I constructed several fixtures to help make them. It can take a couple hours to make the fixture and I've thrown several fixtures away because they just didn't work. I can make a coil in about 15 minutes but every now and then I have to throw one away because it just doesn't come out right.
Glad you find this coil design works well for you. Enjoy

 

[GetLeft]

I've been following for a couple of weeks now and am about to jump in. Been in touch with Pipes (hats off!). But never having used an ecig mod box, I know nothing about how to go about using one. I'll be able to use the device for just a hit or two (power on, get to temp, hit, power off)?

 

[fluffhead]

My cuboid arrived today but my eraser is listed as at the post office where it was given to them by pipes for the last couple of days. I have done the following with my cuboid to get it ready for the eraser's arrival:

Flashed the cuboid with myevic firmware
Switched to TCR M1
Set watts to 80
Set TCR to 185
Set temp to 180C
Set ohms "check" to off

Is there anything I didn't do correctly? What else do I need to do? I am hoping to get all the details of setting up the mod into a quick checklist in order to demystify the project for newcomers like myself.

Edit: I got the Cuboid from the fasttech link pipes put on the first message of the thread and it was scanned as authentic for anyone wondering about the legitimacy of those cuboids.

 

[E0x]

@GetLeft mod box work like this: press the botton inhale , release the botton stop inhaling , so only when you press the botton real energy is consume from the battery but of course the screen can consume energy too but not that much if you stop using it you can turn it off or not is not that much the diference in power consumption but is more safe turn it off when not in use.

 

[Pipes]

Maybe "stacked stove-top" is a more fitting name just to speak the same lingo with the ecig guys...

Thank you so much Ryan for the stacked idea but I am not sure what you mean that it calculates at 34W... Mine ended up being 0.47Ω. I throw 100W at it for a quick heat up (1-2" but I usually start drawing fast the moment I press the button) at TCR190 at this point and temps seem to be near real world. 10" hits are more than enough!
And it's a hard built! Wow, I am amazed at your results man! Kudos!!! Special jigs or just proper hand/tool technique?
I ll try again for sure and also want to experiment with more designs and ideas. Really fun!!!

The wire length or ohms is less critical with a TC device driving it. Remember that the Mistvaporizer is an un-regulated device and depends on ohms law to achieve the desired "average" temperature. Controlling the temp is done by draw speed.
This is also the reason I choose 8-9" of AWG22 wire. Gives 25 watts or so using it in bypass or un-regulated modes making it useful without TC. However, this is a moving target with battery depletion and types. Battery selection becomes more critical to achieve consistent results.
It's all good when you drive it right.

On a side note, I'm seeing people flash their own images onto the cuboid...is anyone able to send me a link how to do that myself? I'd love to create or have some bob's burgers art on mine (I have no idea why, I just love the show)

The picture is a 64X40 pixel black and white 2 bit colour resolution .bmp file. 64X48 pixel for a couple devices. I just use Irfanview for an editor.

 

[natural farmer]

First I'm not Ryan! I try to just stick with my FC handle but I'm Dave
I don't have the formula handy (I'm on vacation ) but it is something like divide the voltage of the battery by the ohms and multiply that by the amps and it gives you the wattage rating, I can post it next week but I'm sure someone else has it. Someone in the mist thread posted it a while ago.
I don't want to speak ecig lingo but you can, I don't mind.
Yes the build is hard, I spent a long time figuring out how to do it. I constructed several fixtures to help make them. It can take a couple hours to make the fixture and I've thrown several fixtures away because they just didn't work. I can make a coil in about 15 minutes but every now and then I have to throw one away because it just doesn't come out right.
Glad you find this coil design works well for you. Enjoy

Sorry for the name change man, my bad, messed memories!
Thanks for the explaining and thanks to @Pipes as well for his!
I hope.I get better at this. I am trying to make it heat as even as possible and I hope to reach a point where no stem turning or stirring is necessary although it may be a fun part of the ritual! But I like to share too and not bother with explaining. It also bothers most people if there is too much technic involved. It drives them away from FuckingCombustion!

 

[EmDeemo]

My cuboid arrived today but my eraser is listed as at the post office where it was given to them by pipes for the last couple of days. I have done the following with my cuboid to get it ready for the eraser's arrival:

Flashed the cuboid with myevic firmware
Switched to TCR M1
Set watts to 80
Set TCR to 185
Set temp to 180C
Set ohms "check" to off

Is there anything I didn't do correctly? What else do I need to do? I am hoping to get all the details of setting up the mod into a quick checklist in order to demystify the project for newcomers like myself.

Edit: I got the Cuboid from the fasttech link pipes put on the first message of the thread and it was scanned as authentic for anyone wondering about the legitimacy of those cuboids.

Not sure about the ohm check option but the rest is set up nearly the same as me, the only difference being I'm on 61 watts (I was trying for 60 watts but kept overshooting it ).

Can one of the clever technical bods tell me what real world difference that different wattage setting would make, 60 watts or 80 watts, if everything else was exactly the same?

 

[natural farmer]

Not sure about the ohm check option but the rest is set up nearly the same as me, the only difference being I'm on 61 watts (I was trying for 60 watts but kept overshooting it ).

Can one of the clever technical bods tell me what real world difference that different wattage setting would make, 60 watts or 80 watts, if everything else was exactly the same?

I think it makes for a faster heat up... That's how I have experienced this at least.

 

[Pipes]

Yes, it speeds up the preheat burst. Turning it down will cap the peak of the burst. After that, the device will generally never pull that much power for the duration of the cycle. However, going too low will cause the device to jump into power mode. The same symptom you will get when battery is not performing up to snuff. This is because it breaks an internally programmed rule of the temperature NOT rising X amount, in Y amount of time.

 

[natural farmer]

just convert in bmp...

Allright, decided to update to myevic but i am trying to convert the files in bmp and they end up not being single coloured. How can i single color them so they are accepted by the firmware?

 

[fluffhead]

Not sure about the ohm check option but the rest is set up nearly the same as me, the only difference being I'm on 61 watts (I was trying for 60 watts but kept overshooting it ).

Can one of the clever technical bods tell me what real world difference that different wattage setting would make, 60 watts or 80 watts, if everything else was exactly the same?

Thanks for the reply. I set it to 80 because, from what I read in the thread, 60-100 seems to be a workable range so I just split the difference.

Allright, decided to update to myevic but i am trying to convert the files in bmp and they end up not being single coloured. How can i single color them so they are accepted by the firmware?

I am also having troubles adding these bmp files to my cuboid. However, mine tells me that they need to be 64*40, even when they already are.

 

[natural farmer]

I am also having troubles adding these bmp files to my cuboid. However, mine tells me that they need to be 64*40, even when they already are.

They are actually 64*48 and need resizing but they are also not single colour. Not good in Photoshop unfortunately...

Also got myself a Pico!!! This is soooo tiny!!! And it seems to keep temps much better even without myevic. It doesn't pulse at all, at least I can't see it with a bare eye. Cuboid with myevic pulses a lot just like with the stock firmware...
Pico power!!!

 

[GetLeft]

Thanks for that post. I haven't purchased my mod box yet and the size of that thing looks ideal. I have the Air and the Milaana, both stealthy. But this looks like it should take stealth to a higher level.

EDIT: Local shop wants 55. I'll order it online for 25. Looks perfect for the slopes...

EDIT #2 This note is found at the bottom of a page proiding info on the Pico:

"In order to use temperature control feature, it requires use of nickel coils or titanium coils and must be built with non-resistant wire.

Do not use Ni200, Titanium, and Stainless Steel with non-temperature control devices/mods. This is a risk of battery explosion! Please make sure that the devices/mods that you are using is capable of controlling coil temperature."

So I'm thinking I'll go with the VTwo Mini, which has temp control for ss...

 

[E0x]

@GetLeft you don't need the temp control profile for SS , you only need tcr , if tcr is there is not a problem afaik , but i am can't warranty that tho.

 

[natural farmer]

Thanks for that post. I haven't purchased my mod box yet and the size of that thing looks ideal. I have the Air and the Milaana, both stealthy. But this looks like it should take stealth to a higher level.

EDIT: Local shop wants 55. I'll order it online for 25. Looks perfect for the slopes...

EDIT #2 This note is found at the bottom of a page proiding info on the Pico:

"In order to use temperature control feature, it requires use of nickel coils or titanium coils and must be built with non-resistant wire.

Do not use Ni200, Titanium, and Stainless Steel with non-temperature control devices/mods. This is a risk of battery explosion! Please make sure that the devices/mods that you are using is capable of controlling coil temperature."

So I'm thinking I'll go with the VTwo Mini, which has temp control for ss...

@GetLeft you don't need the temp control profile for SS , you only need tcr , if tcr is there is not a problem afaik , but i am can't warranty that tho.

Pico has TCR and works great with SS!

I got it locally for 45€...

 

[ander]

Midnight Counterfeitphobia attack...

 

[natural farmer]

Midnight Counterfeitphobia attack...

 

[GetLeft]

Yeah so this stuff is all so new to me science of it, terminlogy everything. But that's what's great about FC. I've learned a whole lot of stuff here and this is going to add on to it.

Anyway was nervous about a warning I read about the pico on one site but kept reading and found this:

"TC-SS and TCR Mode: The temperature control on the iStick Pico covers nickel, titanium, stainless steel and offers temperature coefficient of resistance (TCR) mode..."

So this will be my mod. Eraser, bring it on

 

[natural farmer]

I wonder if the Eraser could fit in one of those recessed type mods like the Eleaf Aster RT... It accepts up to 22mm atomizers but not sure how wide the Eraser is exactly.

 

[Joaon]

@natural farmer : Staaaap it naw !

My Vtc mini just bricked itself; it was working like a charm last time I used it (no firm update since),
and tonight: nothing.

Meh, Pico started to grow in me and then ..

Pipes instructions de-bricked the Vtc.. Well !
Don't know if I must be happy or not ahah

 

[Pipes]

I wonder if the Eraser could fit in one of those recessed type mods like the Eleaf Aster RT... It accepts up to 22mm atomizers but not sure how wide the Eraser is exactly.

It measures 23mm. Made it the same diameter as my ecig atomizer. There are this type of mods that will fit as I remember thinking about one for my ecig at one time.

I've being playing with the PID numbers as I agree with @natural farmer and @funkyjunky about the preheat being a little much in the preset algorithm. I saw the PID numbers that @m0qu4 posted in the Bulli thread and his findings and experimented some.
Unless you make huge differences, it's hard to see differences. Specially when you need to re-calibrate the temperature some with the changes too.
Anyway, I currently have these numbers punched in and it eliminates the preheat. I initially thought this would effect the vapor production speed but actually has little effect in production speed. Less surface charring happening and is smoother taste-wise.



Lowering the P value increases the preheat.

I also found I needed to lower the TCR to 170 to keep the temperature change real. Got too hot, when changing the temp by only 20F.

FAQ sheet updated. BTW, you can access the FAQ by clicking on the middle pic in my signature.

 

[EmDeemo]

I wonder if the Eraser could fit in one of those recessed type mods like the Eleaf Aster RT... It accepts up to 22mm atomizers but not sure how wide the Eraser is exactly.

Just a mm off! That design would be great for on the go, putting it in a jacket pocket That brace its got is neat. It'd be a great gig going vape

I've upped to 80 watts. Not entirely convinced I noticed a difference, possibly more consistent results. I've just added @Pipes 'no preheat' options, and flavour seems to be increased in a full fresh bowl. I'm having to turn the temps down a tad and still getting huge hits. I wonder if something about this just works more conveniently with the way I inhale? I dunno.

Gonna go back down to 60 watts and use these settings for a while to see if I notice any difference, then go back to upping the wattage and seeing if I can notice any difference there. At 195c the hits are endless atm. I think theres less concentrated heating in one spot from my crooked heater coil without the preheat. EDIT: New fresh bowl while I've been typing this, definitely less concentrated heat spots. The heat can now hit the same point more times than it could before, with less risk of charing. Gonna try lowering temps again. Flavour is staying for longer.

Also, battery life... I consider myself a pretty heavy user. Eraser has been my daily driver for a few weeks now. I'm changing batteries pretty much just once a day

 

[Pipes]

I wonder if something about this just works more conveniently with the way I inhale? I dunno.

Gonna go back down to 60 watts and use these settings for a while to see if I notice any difference, then go back to upping the wattage and seeing if I can notice any difference there.

Also, battery life... I consider myself a pretty heavy user. Eraser has been my daily driver for a few weeks now. I'm changing batteries pretty much just once a day

I think you nailed it! The idea of the PID is to match ones draw techniques to be the most comfortable. If you have a pre-heat, a quick start at a higher speed becomes the norm out of necessity. Besides the preheat, the numbers make the temp move some one way or the other through the duration of your puff. Can set it to match the way you want. Stay the same all the way to the end or slowly get hotter or cooler as time moves along.
We just need to figure out the right combinations of numbers and how they interact and affect the temperature vs time curve.

Forgot to mention that, with the above no preheat setting, I had to change the TCR to a lower setting of 170. Found it would get too hot within 20F.

It might be a good idea to start a thread related the the "myevic" firmware where information can be pooled. Our needs are quite different from that of ecig users so off site information is not always geared for us. And seems a few devices now on FC, are into this technology. Lots of good scattered info that we can put in one place.
Just not sure where it should go? Any takers to start one up?

Without a preheat, you can likely go even lower in your wattage and not feel any difference. Which, in turn will give even better battery life. Not only per charge but added cycles as not hitting them as hard in general. A win/win if you like the setting.