natural farmer
Well-Known Member
You don't even need to get too much into it, I haven't yet and it's really simple so far.
The "Project" DIY Herbal Vaporizer
- Thread starter Pipes
- Start date
but for what its worth, the pico dual is not yet supported by any custom firmware. artic fox has the normal pico so id say they do dual soon.
in short:the project works great with any box mod (optimally tcr support). but if you want to obtain deep full control over your mod in the future,wait,or go for a device on the conpatibility list.
full control meaning: having more or less real temps displayed instead of too high,better temperature control algorithms, custom logo
in short:the project works great with any box mod (optimally tcr support). but if you want to obtain deep full control over your mod in the future,wait,or go for a device on the conpatibility list.
full control meaning: having more or less real temps displayed instead of too high,better temperature control algorithms, custom logo
natural farmer
Well-Known Member
Do these custom firmwares really have better temperature control algorithms? Do they make a difference?
natural farmer
Well-Known Member
Wasn't like this with the OG firmware?
Bvapst
Well-Known Member
Yes I believe as I was still confused with all those pictures with glass parts, well, I jumped in ! I know what I read from my fellown is enough to have hope and trust. Will get one Eraser and start to look for a mod ..
I'll check those e-cigs shops and do my research online of course but any advices (specially for EUshops or mods-model) is welcome
@Joaon do not hesitate to show what you found as i'm not that far
in my opinion yes, one is superior to stock firmware, namely PID control. its the way the power is unleashed or throttled according to measured temp vs desired temp.
in the myevic firmware, this needs to be activated in 'menu>vaping>algo', set algo to PID, dont change the rest for now.done
the real world temperatures have more to do with what resistance ohms are locked and the tcr number. the custom firmwares let you change the locked resistance and fine tune it to display real world temps.
marduk
daydreamer
My Eraser isn't here yet, but I just flashed your 25s timeout firmware to my VTC mini. I'm not seeing the "algo" option anywhere. Did you change it to the proper setting and disable access or am I missing something?
ooh nice of you to take my build! it was made from an older state of the myevic firmware, pre pid.
https://github.com/ClockSelect/myevic/tree/master/bin
here you find always the newest myevic firmware by clockselect, all is that mans accomplishment.
it has 15sec timeout.
for the tubo i changed one version with pid option to 20s timeout (and made the temp go from 150degc to 260degc). im happy to share the file if 15secs arent enough!
marduk
daydreamer
Ahh... yes please share! I like longer draws! Why did you change from 25s to 20s in your more recent build?
natural farmer
Well-Known Member
Damn those stacked pancakes were hard to make!! Took me almost an hour or more... Maybe more! 
Not as good as MistVape's but hey, it was all in hand with fingers and pliers, no jig...
I only tried it with some hemp fiber and VG but it seems to work amazingly... Bigger clouds and better taste I think but I will tell you again for sure when I get some herbs!
Not as good as MistVape's but hey, it was all in hand with fingers and pliers, no jig...I only tried it with some hemp fiber and VG but it seems to work amazingly... Bigger clouds and better taste I think but I will tell you again for sure when I get some herbs!
My finding with the PID is that when set to "on" with the preset numbers, it is generally hotter, and you don't need to manually up the ohms as much to achieve the real feel temperatures.
But, I also found it increases the preheat some causing the initial glow to be hotter before it settles down. Another observation has been that it slowly increases in temp as time goes on. Like it's daring you to go on...lol
I used for a while but decided the standard algorithm seemed a safer bet. Specially when first setting it up. Lots of time to play after. But then again, you won't be in the mood....
Another feature we should grab onto before the major playing begins is saving your complete settings, including the manual ohms and all the weird stuff. With the "myevic" you press and hold the + and fire button for a few seconds. This brings up a list of saved configurations to either save to or read from. It is a pita when you get it working perfect and make some changes and can't remember what you did.
Let's keep the horse in front of the carriage.
But, I also found it increases the preheat some causing the initial glow to be hotter before it settles down. Another observation has been that it slowly increases in temp as time goes on. Like it's daring you to go on...lol
I used for a while but decided the standard algorithm seemed a safer bet. Specially when first setting it up. Lots of time to play after. But then again, you won't be in the mood....
Another feature we should grab onto before the major playing begins is saving your complete settings, including the manual ohms and all the weird stuff. With the "myevic" you press and hold the + and fire button for a few seconds. This brings up a list of saved configurations to either save to or read from. It is a pita when you get it working perfect and make some changes and can't remember what you did.
Let's keep the horse in front of the carriage.
Maybe it was this that helped me get more accurate temps then
Damn those stacked pancakes were hard to make!! Took me almost an hour or more... Maybe more!
I only tried it with some hemp fiber and VG but it seems to work amazingly... Bigger clouds and better taste I think but I will tell you again for sure when I get some herbs!
Ha! Nice!
Tho tbf, I'm getting bigger clouds than I know what to do with as it is
Yes I believe as I was still confused with all those pictures with glass parts, well, I jumped in ! I know what I read from my fellown is enough to have hope and trust. Will get one Eraser and start to look for a mod ..
I'll check those e-cigs shops and do my research online of course but any advices (specially for EUshops or mods-model) is welcome
@Joaon do not hesitate to show what you found as i'm not that far
TBH, I took the risky, lazy way and just bought a standard Cuboid and Samsung 25r batteries from Amazon UK. My first Cuboid died within a few hours, the replacement one I'm using now seems rock solid so far.
Apart from dabs, this combo is my daily driver.
With the "myevic" you press and hold the + and fire button for a few seconds. This brings up a list of saved configurations to either save to or read from. It is a pita when you get it working perfect and make some changes and can't remember what you did.
Let's keep the horse in front of the carriage.
Very useful. Done. Thanks.
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http://s000.tinyupload.com/index.php?file_id=00232871921727879911 here is the file. this one has the PID control but not the profile option. time out can be increased to 20s in the menu, temp limits are adjusted to 150degC to 260degC and what this is in F.
in my experience 20s seemed to be enough, so i went with that. its also a safety feature for when the mod is on and in a bag for example.
as for the PID,it does overshoot with the settings,yes. its not necessarily a bad thing, according to some theories a good tuned, aggressive PID is overshooting initially, its a compromise between overshooting and fast heat up. i recommend waiting until it has come down only a bit and then starting the draw, in my experience it will quickly stabilize to the desired value. on the other hand that initial overshoot might help bring things in the bowl and the bowl itself to temp quickly especially from cold. tuning the PI(D) values gives a lot of room for experiments, lowering P should make it less aggressive in general. holding the fire button on one parameter resets to default values
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natural farmer
Well-Known Member
I had to cut down the length of the wire a little which means this built (let's call this "pancakes") has a shorter wire that the "twister" built and resistance has gone down to 0.49Ω. Does this mean it runs hotter with the same TCR/temp settings or cooler? Not sure I can tell from the glow, they glow a little differently....
![:\](/i/s/hmm.gif "Hmm :\")
in the end the box mod controls the heating, the new coil should get exactly as hot as the old one with the same temp settings. again given that the locked resistance is the actual one and tcr number the same.I had to cut down the length of the wire a little which means this built (let's call this "pancakes") has a shorter wire that the "twister" built and resistance has gone down to 0.49Ω. Does this mean it runs hotter with the same TCR/temp settings or cooler? Not sure I can tell from the glow, they glow a little differently....
your wire has a certain real world resistance, depends on length and thickness.
but the mod can be tricked or is not super accurate in his first evaluation of that resistance. by changing it (higher ohms results in hotter and vice versa) one can shift lets say the general hotness of the displayed temperatures.
with the tcr number an increase of i.e. 20degrees on the mod is less or more than 20degrees in real world.
it seems different ppl have found TCR 185 to 195 to be resembling the right size of temp increase.
for the actual resistance its a bit more tricky since they vary a bit for all projects. i recommend letting the mod find the resistance when everything is cold. then increase resistance for hotter or decrease for colder by 0.001 ohms and lock it there (not possible to change with stock firmware)
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natural farmer
Well-Known Member
I have tried the Lotus stem and it works really great! Very cool hits!I've heard that some of us use the Lotus WPA with the Eraser !
How does it behave? It seems a perfect water adaptor for the Eraser!
Could somebody make some pics?
natural farmer
Well-Known Member
Had three loads today throuth my Eraser (about 0.05-0.1 each) and I have to say I really like the "pancakes" so far... The browning is more even, it seems to generate more heat and clouds come more effortlessly. I may have to experiment a little with tilting like MistVape to get an even more uniform baking but so far it's thumbs up from me! So much fun to tinker with the heater and witness different results! 
Thanks so much @Pipes and @mistvaporizer for sharing and spreading your knowledge!
Thanks so much @Pipes and @mistvaporizer for sharing and spreading your knowledge!
virtualpurple
Well-Known Member
rabblerouser
Combustion Fucker
Had three loads today throuth my Eraser (about 0.05-0.1 each) and I have to say I really like the "pancakes" so far... The browning is more even, it seems to generate more heat and clouds come more effortlessly. I may have to experiment a little with tilting like MistVape to get an even more uniform baking but so far it's thumbs up from me! So much fun to tinker with the heater and witness different results!
Thanks so much @Pipes and @mistvaporizer for sharing and spreading your knowledge!
I think I've heard them called "stove-top" coils before, but I like the way you're thinking...
natural farmer
Well-Known Member
Hehe, yeah, pancakes sound yummier for sure!
I just copied MistVape's name from that thread...
EDIT: I THINK THIS IS THE FUTURE OF VAPES! Better mod boxes and algorithms will come very soon, lower prices, crazy coil designs and soon we are gonna move from coil built to coil built through the day and change the character of our vaporizers on the spot! So much fun! Good times ahead for vapes
if the world doesn't collapse meanwhile...
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I actually called them the stacked pancake coil
@natural farmer I use 8.5" of 22 ga 316L SS wire to make a coil, calculates to be 34 watts using a 18650 battery
@natural farmer I use 8.5" of 22 ga 316L SS wire to make a coil, calculates to be 34 watts using a 18650 battery
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