Discontinued The Persei Vaporizer for herbs and concentrates.
- Thread starter THC SCIENTIFIC
- Start date
Atomsk
Floating In My Tin Can
Glad to hear you're enjoying the Herc on easy mode, let's get you on boss mode.
The Herc is a cart, so you can put an extra .1-.3. You can think of extra this way: aside from the .3-.4 that saturates your coil and is considered the "buffer," each load is another .3-.4. Anything above the .3-.4 is extra. This means you have to cool down your Herc after each session, and if you're putting a lot, cool it down between hits. If you aren't loading the Herc with this amount, that'll probably be why you're not getting those huge clouds.
Another thing would be how you hit it. The way I understand the Sherlock hit is you divide one breath in to about 3-6 smaller breaths for hitting with the button, and another couple hits without button where vapor production is still there and is tapering of as you cool it. All slow draws.
Once I have my Herc passed the first two or three hits, I start heating it by "pulsing." This means using the button at lesser intervals since there is now heat in the cart. So if you combine the two, you might find yourself doing what I do after the Herc is warm: Press the button only while inhaling, let it go between each segmented breath, inhale more slowly in the cooling down phase (if I can).
If still nothing, try dry burning your chamber to clean off your ceramic rod, check your batters (AW & fully charged), check that you're loading the coil correctly. I find the best way to load it so far is out of the chamber. I tend to get a build up on my ceramic rod when I load in-chamber, and I think that may be due to oil coating the rod during the load? Idk, I just changed it up and now it works better for me, so maybe it'll work for you.
Edit: Haha I was too late.
Caligula
Maximus
OT: I dont have any hard numbers or empirical data to back this up, but from having used them for a few weeks now, Id say that the Efest 18350s are about equal to the AWs I've been alternating with (one set charges, while the other powers the Persei). There may be a SLIGHTLY more rapid drop off with the Efest units, but if that's the case its barely noticeable. Well worth the $7.00 I paid for the pair (even with extra $4.xx for shipping added in, its a steal) IMO.
I look forward to the bench test results from @THC SCIENTIFIC . I remember he took a pair from @Atomsk the other week so he could check them out to compare against the AWs. Maybe @BLAZING OG knows something?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D0ODHKS/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I look forward to the bench test results from @THC SCIENTIFIC . I remember he took a pair from @Atomsk the other week so he could check them out to compare against the AWs. Maybe @BLAZING OG knows something?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D0ODHKS/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Wait, @Atomsk are you saying the Herc can hold .6-.8ish or more total? I feel like my coil cant hold that much.. or will the coil prevent it from running into the bottom chamber if loaded on top of the coil and cooled properly?
And thanks for the link @Caligula I think I get fractal distillation.. Im still a bit confused about what you're distilling out of the oil, and whether that makes the vaped herb unsafe? I ask because when I put herb in there in comes out covered in oil, like a decent amount, which I'd like to see about vaping with either the 3.7 v rod or with another convection box vape.. However I don't want to do that if ill be vaping a bunch of bad stuff..
And thanks for the link @Caligula I think I get fractal distillation.. Im still a bit confused about what you're distilling out of the oil, and whether that makes the vaped herb unsafe? I ask because when I put herb in there in comes out covered in oil, like a decent amount, which I'd like to see about vaping with either the 3.7 v rod or with another convection box vape.. However I don't want to do that if ill be vaping a bunch of bad stuff..
Atomsk
Floating In My Tin Can
If you add a regular load, which for a 40% coil is .3 saturation, .3 load, I would feel pretty comfortable adding .2 extra. So yes .8 in your 40 coil, maybe more if you treat it right. For me, each session takes out about .3, so I always put extra so each load is two sessions. I get slight leaks if I'm not careful to cool it down, and even then idgaf because you can either choose to ISO reclaim everything, or turn the heater core upside down and melt the oil from the bottom chamber back in to the coil chamber, which is a process Omicron carts have made us familiar with.
Caligula
Maximus
Honestly, you aren't adding anything to the system by vaping it so I wouldn't be concerned at all about creating new substances which would be more harmful than whatever is in the vapor to begin with (if that makes sense).
Also, what Atomsk was trying to say (IMO) is that once your coil reaches saturation, adding an additional dab (0.1g-0.3g) on top will get you bigger hits... as you already discovered.
As for how much your buffer will hold... well that really depends. Even uncut coils hold different amounts given variations between individual units. I suggest loading your coil outside of the hercules with aa darker colored oil/wax. That way you can better see when the coil is fully saturated. Take note of how much it took for that specific coil, that way you know roughly how much the buffer size is. Once the coil has been fully loaded, drop it into the Hercules then add whatever amount you plan to vape in a single session on top of the saturated coil. Once you stop getting massive hits, you know you vaped off the dab on top and are hitting your buffer. You can smoke on your buffer if you want, but the hits wont be as big, and you will need to replace it before you can put more dabs on top and have it be effective.
What I do is to keep the coil loaded and simply to add more on top before I hit the buffer. This gives the max effect and best flavor. It is NOT the best way to conserve your meds though, unless you are using a very solid wax/shatter.
@SkyHi
By the way... everyone with a Hercules should buy these:
They work SOOOO well for little cleanups. The wipes are roughly = in size to one of those Clorox Wipes, and are textured to help scrub stuff off of surfaces. In fact, I can clean my entire Hercules with one wipe!
Also, what Atomsk was trying to say (IMO) is that once your coil reaches saturation, adding an additional dab (0.1g-0.3g) on top will get you bigger hits... as you already discovered.
As for how much your buffer will hold... well that really depends. Even uncut coils hold different amounts given variations between individual units. I suggest loading your coil outside of the hercules with aa darker colored oil/wax. That way you can better see when the coil is fully saturated. Take note of how much it took for that specific coil, that way you know roughly how much the buffer size is. Once the coil has been fully loaded, drop it into the Hercules then add whatever amount you plan to vape in a single session on top of the saturated coil. Once you stop getting massive hits, you know you vaped off the dab on top and are hitting your buffer. You can smoke on your buffer if you want, but the hits wont be as big, and you will need to replace it before you can put more dabs on top and have it be effective.
What I do is to keep the coil loaded and simply to add more on top before I hit the buffer. This gives the max effect and best flavor. It is NOT the best way to conserve your meds though, unless you are using a very solid wax/shatter.
@SkyHi
By the way... everyone with a Hercules should buy these:
They work SOOOO well for little cleanups. The wipes are roughly = in size to one of those Clorox Wipes, and are textured to help scrub stuff off of surfaces. In fact, I can clean my entire Hercules with one wipe!
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ataxian
PALE BLUE DOT
Empirical data?
Ever read the book MULTITUDE INTELLIGENCE?
Some of us use our gut instincts!
Feeling my way through!
The technology that makes TET unique is more than the simple configuration (temp) of a resistor in an atomizer. TET patented technologies are centered on SAFE vaporization through the use of proprietary unique inert high temp materials and the absence of plastic, solder, tape, glue, and fiberglass in our assembly methods. All materials are sourced and manufactured in California. Allow me to elaborate a bit on the subject.
TET products are again unique in that they have a two phase behavior when vaporizing.
When an iron wire turns red it is ~770C or ~1400F. Yes the wire will get red if it is empty/low. That does not mean that it runs at this temperature all the time/when it is used correctly. When a solid is in direct contact with another solid or non-compressible fluid at a lower temp (i.e. the "juice" or EO) it is exchanging (losing) energy (heat) to the fluid through conductive heat transfer. This is only part of what cools the core to the correct temperature during high load use.
The other part of the functionality that plays a role is the convective heat transfer to the fluid or EO that is suspended in the surrounding porous ceramic when the core has a lower fluid level. The rate of convective heat transfer is much lower than that of the conductive heat transfer. When the convection heat transfer is occurring the fluid will not be in direct contact with the wire as it is held away from the element by the porous ceramic. The Convection (hot air) heats the liquid inside porous ceramic to the point of vaporization while keeping the liquid from direct contact with the heating element.
Both of these heat transfer mechanisms play a role when using the CERA core (consuming, vaping) from high load level on down through a lower level load.
TET urges all of you to perform a taste/performance test and conclude as many have already what device you prefer for safe vaporization.
Use the products as recommended on the TET website and you will maintain a SAFE vaporization temperature and first class experience.
friedbanana8
Well-Known Member
hey what size screens do you guys use to separate your herb from your oil? i was using a washer to keep my herb separate from my oil, but my coil still would get gunked up with bits of herb so ive decided to get a screen. And might anybody know of any store that sells tiny screens like this? Maybe one i could drive to instead of ordering online?
Caligula
Maximus
@dolphintnks every post you've made (all 4) sound like press releases from TETs marketing department. Why is that?
Bob Loblaw
Astralnaut
i use the fine screens from my m420 incredibowl. maybe cut down a pv ultrafine?
Aether
New Member
A couple nights ago i was wondering the same thing. Made this out of a bottle, shoe lace, tape, random hose, and a rubber mouth piece in about 5 minutes. It satisfied my curiosity.
friedbanana8
Well-Known Member
i managed to set up my persei to my bong with a bendy straw, some tape, and an earbud . I even ran two straws on the dual head. It just doesnt look appealing though. i basically just put an ear bud on the end of one straw and used a little rubber mouthpiece i got from d9 on the cartridge and inserted in the other end of the straw. I wrapped tape around it to keep the mouth piece from slipping off. then you just slip the earbud side into the bong. it did the job well. and they are items you can find around your house.
A couple nights ago i was wondering the same thing. Made this out of a bottle, shoe lace, tape, random hose, and a rubber mouth piece in about 5 minutes. It satisfied my curiosity.
is that a waterfall bong? i remember those back in the day, and gravity bongs too were dope.
Where can you get some pv ultrafine?
i went to the incredibowl website and found they sell a little accessory pack for 9 bucks that comes with 5 screens. I might just get that if i have no luck at home depot.
hold on guys just because im no engineer does not mean i dont understand how things works.
First of all for thermodynamics to work you would need to have numbers. Numbers for oils As in how fast oil transfers heat out, absorbtion rate, then you would need numbers for how good the titanium absorbs heat or the stainless cartridges, then you would need to understand that if the transfer rates are lower then the rate of heat production then that means heat is building up inside.
If the oil and other parts can transfer heat out at the same pace the heater can supply heat then the heater will not heat up, now if the transfer rate isnt the same then the heat will just build up.
Krazy talked about Water always staying at 212F which is at its boiling point, i say No it stays at 212F because of its heat capacity and transfer rate. In fact it is so good at absorbing heat and transfering it that it is actually used as a coolant in engines and other higher temperature applications. The heat capacity of oils does not help with heat dissipation. It actually sucks at absorbing heat it and allowing the heater to heat up because it can not transfer heat out fast enough.
Now Mr Dolphin im gonna call bs on your whole line here.
first of all nothing is secret about your wire it is based on Nichrome 80 with a few additives.
Proof is here.
Second section please dont even try to explain this. The LL cartridge glows like hell even with more air flow going over it then the EO cartridge it will still keep glowing. Given the fact that your EO cartridge has a more restrictive air flow, and oil being terrible with heat capacity and ceramic known to be a good heat shield this means bad at transferring heat out of the cartridge, all that pent up heat in the cartridge isnt helping with taste. Something you need to understand about Vaporization, you need air flow, and air flow creates vapor if your talking about convection. Without air flow your oil is burning up not just vaporizing but burning up as is the question here. Since not all oils are equal even the tiniest impurities are going to combust ( this is what i mean by burning ).
The Statement still stands. Wire heaters are old technology.
Hercules SR 71 Black Rod = 800F
Wire Heaters = 1300F
When you vaporize and you start to reduce your oil surrounding the heater the heater heats up. Remember the air flow never changes because for the EO has a max inhale limit. This means less oil and heat being transferred out and more hotter the heater gets. Now when you said that that you need conductive and convective to cool down the heater to perfect temperatures then your theory just fell apart because once less oil is near the heater and you cant increase air flow to compensate for the less oil the heater will just keeping going up and up.
Example. Only an example. This is only an example not a rep of real numbers. Just a theory of less oil means higher temps.
1 gram of oil + 1/4 CFM of air = Heater Temperature of 400F
0.5 gram of oil + 1/4 CFM of air = 800F???
and 0.25 gram of oil + 1/4 CFM of air = 1200F??
If thats the case does that mean soon as you start using your EO its getting hotter and hotter with every hit?
Thats what im getting.
One thing we know bigger surface area = less heat and more vapor and lower temperatures = tastier and healthier vapor. You are burning off things near 900F when your running low as the air flow still keeps the rod at lower temps.
More air Flow, bigger surface area, lower temperatures and no more Nichrome 80 wires or any other types of wires that require less surface area higher temperatures and which means burning of oils because they might have impurities.
First of all for thermodynamics to work you would need to have numbers. Numbers for oils As in how fast oil transfers heat out, absorbtion rate, then you would need numbers for how good the titanium absorbs heat or the stainless cartridges, then you would need to understand that if the transfer rates are lower then the rate of heat production then that means heat is building up inside.
If the oil and other parts can transfer heat out at the same pace the heater can supply heat then the heater will not heat up, now if the transfer rate isnt the same then the heat will just build up.
Krazy talked about Water always staying at 212F which is at its boiling point, i say No it stays at 212F because of its heat capacity and transfer rate. In fact it is so good at absorbing heat and transfering it that it is actually used as a coolant in engines and other higher temperature applications. The heat capacity of oils does not help with heat dissipation. It actually sucks at absorbing heat it and allowing the heater to heat up because it can not transfer heat out fast enough.
Now Mr Dolphin im gonna call bs on your whole line here.
first of all nothing is secret about your wire it is based on Nichrome 80 with a few additives.
Proof is here.
Second section please dont even try to explain this. The LL cartridge glows like hell even with more air flow going over it then the EO cartridge it will still keep glowing. Given the fact that your EO cartridge has a more restrictive air flow, and oil being terrible with heat capacity and ceramic known to be a good heat shield this means bad at transferring heat out of the cartridge, all that pent up heat in the cartridge isnt helping with taste. Something you need to understand about Vaporization, you need air flow, and air flow creates vapor if your talking about convection. Without air flow your oil is burning up not just vaporizing but burning up as is the question here. Since not all oils are equal even the tiniest impurities are going to combust ( this is what i mean by burning ).
The Statement still stands. Wire heaters are old technology.
Hercules SR 71 Black Rod = 800F
Wire Heaters = 1300F
When you vaporize and you start to reduce your oil surrounding the heater the heater heats up. Remember the air flow never changes because for the EO has a max inhale limit. This means less oil and heat being transferred out and more hotter the heater gets. Now when you said that that you need conductive and convective to cool down the heater to perfect temperatures then your theory just fell apart because once less oil is near the heater and you cant increase air flow to compensate for the less oil the heater will just keeping going up and up.
Example. Only an example. This is only an example not a rep of real numbers. Just a theory of less oil means higher temps.
1 gram of oil + 1/4 CFM of air = Heater Temperature of 400F
0.5 gram of oil + 1/4 CFM of air = 800F???
and 0.25 gram of oil + 1/4 CFM of air = 1200F??
If thats the case does that mean soon as you start using your EO its getting hotter and hotter with every hit?
Thats what im getting.
One thing we know bigger surface area = less heat and more vapor and lower temperatures = tastier and healthier vapor. You are burning off things near 900F when your running low as the air flow still keeps the rod at lower temps.
More air Flow, bigger surface area, lower temperatures and no more Nichrome 80 wires or any other types of wires that require less surface area higher temperatures and which means burning of oils because they might have impurities.
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Bob Loblaw
Astralnaut
sorry, ultrafine screen pack from planetvape.ca
jdee
Well-Known Member
When discussing the pros of the SR-71, why is the not yet available black rod (that goes to 800F) always being mentioned to support the argument that its definitely better than those other heaters that go to 1300F ,when it's being sold with a white rod that goes to 1200F ?
Aether
New Member
Not sure how well of a waterfall bong this would make, might have to try it. I was using the hole near the bottom as a carb. Covering it while i took my hit then letting go to finish it off. The top hole was a failed attempt, I ended up covering it with tape.
Actually even with the white rod with feathering of the button it can still do what the black rod can, you can use it with the iris at 5v and achieve black rod status. You can use 6v batteries do the same thing.
friedbanana8
Well-Known Member
i got me some solo ultrafine screens! and some silicon tubing. i guess that'd be an upgrade right?
if it works outs, thats gonna give you some gnarly ass hits.
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ataxian
PALE BLUE DOT
Thank you BLAZING OG!Found it a t a local Pavillions which is the fancier version of vons (I think Pavillions owns Vons).
Thanks to caligula for the information, sure enough like you stated "Safeway" brand 99% ISO.
jpdnkstr
Well-Known Member
I wish I had a Safeway local, I can only find 91 locally.
ataxian
PALE BLUE DOT
I've been using EVERCLEAR. (expensive)
I bought 4 bottles tonight.
Tomorrow I will buy 6 more.
Hot tip Caligua!
PhotoRider
Diagnosed with level 11 G.A.S.
and you can drink it after
