Discontinued The Persei Vaporizer for herbs and concentrates.

[Bromeister]

Also, anyone ever try the EFEST 18350s? The VG vapor crowd pointed me in the direction of EFEST saying that they're made at the same factory and are identical to AW IMRS with the exception of branding. This true?

I don't know about EFEST '350s but i have had several '650s by EFEST for a while now and they seem to be performing admirably. Haven't done any crazy MM tests with them though.

Fun idea, but I think you're SOL. There's not enough room for metal there, you'd tap the M601 part to zero thickness in the process. Even if your CNC bud can do threads (and he eventually should be able to) this one's not possible or the guys who make adapters would do it like they to for 18 to 14mm GonG adapters.

If you have both threads, you can see this, a 510 thread 'hits the walls' if you try to put it in your Persei?

I think you'll find 510 threads are 7*1.0 (a more or less standard ISO size, 7*.5 is 'finer than fine' and not even listed on the chart in the link above.

Good luck, fun idea, but I don't think it'll work....or it'd be done by now by some clever guy, if only to save material.

OF

hmm not sure if ive been clear. I think youre talking about an adapter that would sit flush INSIDE the persei threads?

I want to make an adapter with a kinda disk around it so its even with the outside tube diameter so it looks good and so i can really sock down some of my bigger tanks against it, and/or i want to make an adapter with extended 601 threads that will also thread through an ego well. Please brace yourself for atrocious paint diagrams.

Does that seem somewhat more feasible? I would need 7x1 for the 510 7x1.5 for the 601 and ego is i think 12x.5 or 12x1. Still haven't decided how i wanna do the center pin though.

Do you think CNC machines accept mspaint drawings?

 

[Caligula]

Hmmm. Just tried hitting the Hercules again. Very little vapor. Checked the lower chamber again and see some oil in the bottom and on the ceramic rod retainer although nowhere near as much as last time. I pulled the coil (seemed to be all the way in) and it had oil in the lower half (I assume this means im not out?). I'm going to stick the batteries in the charger and will try again in an hour or so. If it hits well then my batteries must be nearly dead and heating the oil all half assed causing it to run and not vape... maybe? Ill keep u posted.

 

[THC SCIENTIFIC]

Thanks blazing og for all of your help and advice.

Hey guys I would like to ask a few more moments of everyone's time. Got my herc on Friday. Read and watched everything following instructions to the T with a well loaded oil coil. And I have got some light vapor at heating cycles up to 45 seconds of heating time. So I am wondering how full does the coil get with a .8g? Ie appear to have oil all the way up the side? With mine I loaded about .7 and appear to have oil just about 75% up the coil. as you know blazing og I'm using imr not aw imr batteries and I guess I'm wondering if someone has ideas if it is the fill amount that is the problem or the batteries or the assembly slash airflow. I will say the unit gets damn hot and air/vapor that does come out is hot enough to almost burn your throat. And the flavor and true vaporization at hand is exciting and spot on! Just not getting quick or thick clouds like almost everyone else. TIA and thanks for all the prior help! Community here is awesome. Products are advancing to great heights very exciting!

If your getting wispy vapor that means your not getting a full seal.

Are you installing the stainless top cap in the mouth piece first then screwing it on? Sounds like that's what your doing.

If the stainless top cap is installed firs and pressed in then your good.

Anytime anyone gets wispy hits is they think they have more then .5 in the coil and or full seal is not made when assembling the unit.

 

[Atomsk]

If your getting wispy vapor that means your not getting a full seal.

Are you installing the stainless top cap in the mouth piece first then screwing it on? Sounds like that's what your doing.

If the stainless top cap is installed firs and pressed in then your good.

Anytime anyone gets wispy hits is they think they have more then .5 in the coil and or full seal is not made when assembling the unit.

That made all the difference. I've been setting the heater on the insulator, then placing the SS cap on the heater, and then adding the outer shell and mouthpiece. Looked like it was a tight seal that way but apparently not.

Edit:
Nevermind. That worked for about two hits and now I'm back to square one.

I'm thinking that my Oil Coil is expanding because my SS cap keeps popping up. I can tell it in the pressure of the airflow. I would switch out to the second coil but I'm dry on oil atm.

 

[Caligula]

You check your batteries? I get 1 or 2 good hits then nothing when they start to run low it seems.

 

[BLAZING OG]

Hey Blazing OG, u asked what color Persei I have, I got a chrome one. Sorry it took so long for me to answer. I've been busy.

Okay cool, Just wondering.
No worries, It happens to me all the time.
Office is closed till tuesday, so I might have a better idea about the warranty for you then.

How long does the battery last for you guys? I seem to be blowing through a charge relatively quickly and my 7.4s barely have any cycles so they are practically newish. Is that normal for the Hercules? I'm sure the thing draws some massive power.

I have had 3-4 pretty quick sessions as I cant keep up to the herc. I would say about 5 or so, give or take minutes each session, & i probably could go more but I dont like to hammer my batteries like that.
It is massive power, but by holding down the button the whole time or long increments of time its drawing large amounts of power. By throttling/feathering you also see the power (on my iris top) dropping as I feather the button back and forth, as per say if I hold the button down the wattage (I Think thats what it displays on iris top) stays constant as per @Bob Loblaw already mentioned before(I think you mentioned this bob).

Thanks blazing og for all of your help and advice.

Hey guys I would like to ask a few more moments of everyone's time. Got my herc on Friday. Read and watched everything following instructions to the T with a well loaded oil coil. And I have got some light vapor at heating cycles up to 45 seconds of heating time. So I am wondering how full does the coil get with a .8g? Ie appear to have oil all the way up the side? With mine I loaded about .7 and appear to have oil just about 75% up the coil. as you know blazing og I'm using imr not aw imr batteries and I guess I'm wondering if someone has ideas if it is the fill amount that is the problem or the batteries or the assembly slash airflow. I will say the unit gets damn hot and air/vapor that does come out is hot enough to almost burn your throat. And the flavor and true vaporization at hand is exciting and spot on! Just not getting quick or thick clouds like almost everyone else. TIA and thanks for all the prior help! Community here is awesome. Products are advancing to great heights very exciting!

Thank you!!!

I just want you to be happy and get this bad boy off the ground as I know its capable of.
Don't hesitate on any thing you need, I would be glad to help in any way.
Thats for any one for that matter.

Have you made sure the top stainless steel cap that goes on the cart its self in between the teflon mouthpiece, I suggest to put that in first make sure its in nicely, then screw teflon mouthpiece on.
Sound like the airflow since you say it does get hot,you did all the correct requirements by priming the coil.

Is the coil seated all the way down?

45 seconds it to long for it to not produce any vapor, mine starts pretty instant, so something is definitely going on here.

As always make sure batterie are charged.

The coil absorbs the EO and the .5 to .7 saturates the coil and should get it all going nicely.

 

[THC SCIENTIFIC]

That made all the difference. I've been setting the heater on the insulator, then placing the SS cap on the heater, and then adding the outer shell and mouthpiece. Looked like it was a tight seal that way but apparently not.

Edit:
Nevermind. That worked for about two hits and now I'm back to square one.

To make a better seal unscrew the retaining nut in the mouth piece a few rounds that holds screen this will keep the stainless top push in.

Also batteries could be issue. That why we recommend aw imr.

And lack of oil in the coils.

 

[Caligula]

@BLAZING OG. That's got to be my issue then. I've been hammering this thing all day on a single charge. Perhaps some low power testing on the less viscous concentrates to see if you can reproduce that issue might help narrow down the leaking thing?

 

[Atomsk]

You check your batteries? I get 1 or 2 good hits then nothing when they start to run low it seems.

Yeah, have the two stock 18350's and two new EFEST 18350's. Same on both. I notice vapor production after making the initial seal (pressing down the SS cap then adding the mouth piece), but after two hits this goes away. I notice the airflow is different as well, you can feel how tight the seal is, or else, how it's no longer as tight.

 

[Caligula]

@Atomsk try doing that thing G mentioned about backing out the retaining nut for the screen by a few threads. Maybe ur unseating the seal after a few hits. Imma do that to mine right meow.

 

[THC SCIENTIFIC]

@Atomsk try going that thing G mentioned about backing out the retaining nut for the screen by a few threads. Maybe ur unseating the seal after a few hits.

Unseating happens when pressure builds or inhaling. Once again tolerance issues and we are working in resolving this.

 

[Atomsk]

To make a better seal unscrew the retaining nut in the mouth piece a few rounds that holds screen this will keep the stainless top push in.

Also batteries could be issue. That why we recommend aw imr.

And lack of oil in the coils.

@Atomsk try doing that thing G mentioned about backing out the retaining nut for the screen by a few threads. Maybe ur unseating the seal after a few hits. Imma do that to mine right meow.

Done and done. Still the same. If anything, slightly worse.

I'm definitely feeling heat after about 40 seconds of having it on, but no vapor. I do get a very minty taste, so that's nice. Not quite what I'm looking for, though.

This is my set up:

2 X stock Persei AW IMR 18350's, fresh charge.
1 X saturated coil, 1.5 (I added more since that last post).

I'm fairly certain of my assembly, but are there any little adjustments to make where the insulator or that small threaded shaft that receives the ceramic rod?

 

[THC SCIENTIFIC]

Done and done. Still the same. If anything, slightly worse.

I'm definitely feeling heat after about 40 seconds of having it on, but no vapor. I do get a very minty taste, so that's nice. Not quite what I'm looking for, though.

This is my set up:

2 X stock Persei AW IMR 18350's, fresh charge.
1 X saturated coil, 1.5 (I added more since that last post).

I'm fairly certain of my assembly, but are there any little adjustments to make where the insulator or that small threaded shaft that receives the ceramic rod?

Do you have Skype? If yes please add me ill do a session with you and get you situated. Must have video.

 

[BLAZING OG]

I have this feeling my Herc isn't heating correctly. If I hold it down for the 30 second cycle, it doesn't get anywhere near even a slightly orange / red glow. It has to have at least 1.3 loaded as I've just been filling the sumbitch with no real vapor production that stands out from a dying 2.4.

Any tips?

Also, anyone ever try the EFEST 18350s? The VG vapor crowd pointed me in the direction of EFEST saying that they're made at the same factory and are identical to AW IMRS with the exception of branding. This true?

For people who might run in to this problem:
I ran in to the problem of the Herc not heating up a few days ago and was told by Jordan at D9 to check the Heater Core without attaching the insulator. Turns out, you may sometimes need to unscrew the insulator slightly. Apparently the heat generated by Herc does something where the contact points recede and you have to screw it outwards a bit.

So it worked for a little while then back to normal?
Its not heating properly?
Try putting the SS top cap on first then screw mouth piece on
Try adjusting the Bottom teflon insulator cap's screw (unscrew a bit)

Done and done. Still the same. If anything, slightly worse.

I'm definitely feeling heat after about 40 seconds of having it on, but no vapor. I do get a very minty taste, so that's nice. Not quite what I'm looking for, though.

This is my set up:

2 X stock Persei AW IMR 18350's, fresh charge.
1 X saturated coil, 1.5 (I added more since that last post).

I'm fairly certain of my assembly, but are there any little adjustments to make where the insulator or that small threaded shaft that receives the ceramic rod?

That retaining colar(the piece that holds the rod with 4 slits) has to be making contact to the first tungsten contact starting from the top.
I get really hot rod almost instantly and red by at least 10 to 15 seconds.
Do u have the 3.7 v (blue rod) or the 7.4v (white rod)?

If the nut that is holding the rod in isn't tight enough, at first it can slip in and out when assembling the bottom heater piece.


Sweet THC got you covered.
I got faith we will get you going.

 

[Atomsk]

Do you have Skype? If yes please add me ill do a session with you and get you situated. Must have video.

PM'd, what's your info?

Let's let the healing begin!


Update, no longer heating up, again. I don't know if I should be constantly messing with the insulator contact screw to make it go again?

So it worked for a little while then back to normal?
Its not heating properly?
Try putting the SS top cap on first then screw mouth piece on
Try adjusting the Bottom teflon insulator cap's screw (unscrew a bit)

That retaining colar(the piece that holds the rod with 4 slits) has to be making contact to the first tungsten contact starting from the top.
I get really hot rod almost instantly and red by at least 10 to 15 seconds.
Do u have the 3.7 v (blue rod) or the 7.4v (white rod)?

If the nut that is holding the rod in isn't tight enough, at first it can slip in and out when assembling the bottom heater piece.


Sweet THC got you covered.
I got faith we will get you going.

I've got faith, too, man. Drove up to see you guys in LA and you set all my other gear right. Now it's just the big gun left.

 

[Caligula]

@BLAZING OG I lost that paper where I wrote down which batteries you suggested. Apparently I'm going to need another set so I don't have more downtime! Are these the units u were talking about?

http://www.amazon.com/IMR-18350-3-7v-Rechargeable-Button/dp/B00D0ODHKS/ref=pd_sim_hpc_1

Edit I found the paper. I see u suggest AW, however a lot of sites seem to really like the Efest units as competition. Check this out...

http://ukvapers.org/Thread-IMR-14500-Batteries-Efest-v-AW

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/11899

 

[OF]

hmm not sure if ive been clear. I think youre talking about an adapter that would sit flush INSIDE the persei threads?

I want to make an adapter with a kinda disk around it so its even with the outside tube diameter so it looks good and so i can really sock down some of my bigger tanks against it, and/or i want to make an adapter with extended 601 threads that will also thread through an ego well. Please brace yourself for atrocious paint diagrams.

Does that seem somewhat more feasible? I would need 7x1 for the 510 7x1.5 for the 601 and ego is i think 12x.5 or 12x1. Still haven't decided how i wanna do the center pin though.

Do you think CNC machines accept mspaint drawings?

Thanks very much. As the Chinese say about one picture and a thousand words..... I definitely had it wrong. I had the wrong 'flush with the Persei' in mind.

CNC machines need one of several specialized drawing programs, but sketches like yours are very commonly used to 'program on the floor'. A skilled machine operator can work from less even.

However, I think you're working too hard. What you want to do was so easy I did it a while back while fiddling around with a similar scheme. I've long since lost the little kluge, but it worked just fine (although it was a little ugly, something I'm sure you can fix. I actually made two, one soldered, one not.

What I did was take the normal (plated brass) m601 to 510 adapter and soft solder a stack of 3 (IIRC) brass washers on it to build up the diameter to match the Persei. The hole in the washers I found was close, but took a bit of filing. To do this you have to strip the stuff out of the adapter (center pin and insulator) and put it back after the heat is gone. The second attempt involved nylon washers instead and epoxy. The first one broke apart.....I did a lousy job of surface prep on the nylon. After cleaning it upand being more careful with the next glue up I had much better luck. I used that sucker all over, until I lost it, now I'm back to pinching with my fingers. I really should make another one, I just realized how handy it was thinking back. I said it was ugly? You should have seen the notices I filed in the edge of the brass one in an ill-advised attempt to get yet more traction.

I think a two piece solution using existing threaded adapters is the way to fly here. You can do it at home if you have a good hardware store handy?

Best wishes,

OF

 

[BLAZING OG]

@BLAZING OG I lost that paper where I wrote down which batteries you suggested. Apparently I'm going to need another set so I don't have more downtime! Are these the units u were talking about?

http://www.amazon.com/IMR-18350-3-7v-Rechargeable-Button/dp/B00D0ODHKS/ref=pd_sim_hpc_1

Edit I found the paper. I see u suggest AW, however a lot of sites seem to really like the Efest units as competition. Check this out...

http://ukvapers.org/Thread-IMR-14500-Batteries-Efest-v-AW

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/11899

You beat me to it, yes AW I totally recommend.
I have heard nothing but good things about the efest battery you mentioned above, supposedly they're made in the same factory and pretty much the same as aw but without the aw name.
I would say anything on par with the aw or better would work wonderfully.

PM'd, what's your info?

Let's let the healing begin!


Update, no longer heating up, again. I don't know if I should be constantly messing with the insulator contact screw to make it go again?




I've got faith, too, man. Drove up to see you guys in LA and you set all my other gear right. Now it's just the big gun left.

I couldn't of said it better.
Iam glad it all worked out when you came down.
I hope to hear next that you got this thing flying high.

 

[Caligula]

@BLAZING OG Turns out I'm still leaking pretty bad here. Not the fault of low batteries either. I seem to be getting quite a bit of oil leaking down the sides of the lower core chamber from the upper one with the oil coil.

There are three pass-through air holes that go between the upper and lower half of the cores. I assume these are to draw air through when you hit the Herc? It looks like the oil is leaking from there... Either that or from around the rod/retaining nut.

Halp! I'm losing quite a bit of meds here.

 

[THC SCIENTIFIC]

@BLAZING OG Turns out I'm still leaking pretty bad here. Not the fault of low batteries either. I seem to be getting quite a bit of oil leaking down the sides of the lower core chamber from the upper one with the oil coil.

There are three pass-through air holes that go between the upper and lower half of the cores. I assume these are to draw air through when you hit the Herc? It looks like the oil is leaking from there... Either that or from around the rod/retaining nut.

Halp! I'm losing quite a bit of meds here.

Please download Skype and add me thcscientific ill get you squared away.


The reason is lack of seal.

 

[Caligula]

Please download Skype and add me thcscientific ill get you squared away.


The reason is lack of seal.

Currently my mic is broken on my headset for my pc. Is there another way we can do this? Ill try regardless tho, maybe I can get it to work.

 

[BLAZING OG]

Please download Skype and add me thcscientific ill get you squared away.


The reason is lack of seal.

@BLAZING OG Turns out I'm still leaking pretty bad here. Not the fault of low batteries either. I seem to be getting quite a bit of oil leaking down the sides of the lower core chamber from the upper one with the oil coil.

There are three pass-through air holes that go between the upper and lower half of the cores. I assume these are to draw air through when you hit the Herc? It looks like the oil is leaking from there... Either that or from around the rod/retaining nut.

Halp! I'm losing quite a bit of meds here.

Oh man, Iam sorry.
Can you jump on skype, thc scientific is on and willing to do a video session.
bluetooth might work or you can video and type to communicate.

 

[Caligula]

Just downloaded and added you G.

 

[THC SCIENTIFIC]

Please turn on Skype we can still chat faster then here. Typing

 

[Bromeister]

Thanks very much. As the Chinese say about one picture and a thousand words..... I definitely had it wrong. I had the wrong 'flush with the Persei' in mind.

CNC machines need one of several specialized drawing programs, but sketches like yours are very commonly used to 'program on the floor'. A skilled machine operator can work from less even.

However, I think you're working too hard. What you want to do was so easy I did it a while back while fiddling around with a similar scheme. I've long since lost the little kluge, but it worked just fine (although it was a little ugly, something I'm sure you can fix. I actually made two, one soldered, one not.

What I did was take the normal (plated brass) m601 to 510 adapter and soft solder a stack of 3 (IIRC) brass washers on it to build up the diameter to match the Persei. The hole in the washers I found was close, but took a bit of filing. To do this you have to strip the stuff out of the adapter (center pin and insulator) and put it back after the heat is gone. The second attempt involved nylon washers instead and epoxy. The first one broke apart.....I did a lousy job of surface prep on the nylon. After cleaning it upand being more careful with the next glue up I had much better luck. I used that sucker all over, until I lost it, now I'm back to pinching with my fingers. I really should make another one, I just realized how handy it was thinking back. I said it was ugly? You should have seen the notices I filed in the edge of the brass one in an ill-advised attempt to get yet more traction.

I think a two piece solution using existing threaded adapters is the way to fly here. You can do it at home if you have a good hardware store handy?

Best wishes,

OF

My initial description is pretty hard to decipher. I've been meaning to go to Lowes with some atomizers and batteries and just have a field day in the washer section. Unfortunately I've been working like crazy lately and most of my of my down time has been spent medicating and for some completely unrelated reason thinking up crazy contraptions. My 601-510 and 510-ego adapters don't work together so I'm getting a different ego one to see if it'll work. I'll probably run it by him for the hell of it though, I'm sure he could use the practice and it'd be on the cheap. In the mean time I'll be doing the washer stack. Thanks for all the help.