Discontinued The Persei Vaporizer for herbs and concentrates.
- Thread starter THC SCIENTIFIC
- Start date
ataxian
PALE BLUE DOT
I agree 100% with what your saying.Yep, this is perfect for those who plan on using the units at home, particularly with the Nibbler XL on the 7.4v Herc
Glad to have invested in this updated line of products, as pleased as I am with the current performance I am also very excited for the future!
90% of the time I vape at home.
The CORE makes so much sense!
The NIBBLER XL does too!
Messiah of Savants
New Member
You are correct, you heat the device you are soldering not the solder itself. I think what OF is saying is that if you used the HAMMER you probably didnt 'tin' the tip. By doing this is allows it to conduct heat better when you add new solder - you would have to coat the tip of the hammer with new solder. ("Cleanness")
Also since the hammer gets so hot (1200F) you run the risk of burning the flux, which is the clear stuff inside the solder itself that prevents oxidization ("Overrunning the Flux").
OF
Well-Known Member
It differs in several important ways, most importantly how heat is managed. Heat (as in calories) not temperature (as in degrees). In general, hotter irons are a bad idea. Optimum is probably 700F for common electrical/electronic soldering. Any hotter and you 'cook' the stuff on the iron and have even more trouble controlling the heat at the joint (keeping it from going too hot). Some has to do with a guy's timing, of course.
So, 'the NASA way' calls for a tinned and clean iron. You wipe the tip if it's full of old solder and more important sometimes, old burned flux (which of course contains the concentrated form of the very junk you're trying to keep out). Put a small dab on the iron tip to form a droplet to do the work. The flux will flash off almost instantly and form a crust at the edge of the droplet.
Use the droplet to mechanically contact the joint at it's most massive point. You need enough liquid to fill the voids for improved contact for rapid heat flow. The work is done there. When the work comes up to working temperature on the far side, feed the solder in from there for the connection. First to flow will be the flux by over 100F. The flux we use is of the so called activated type and is only active and able to attack the oxides and junk over a fairly narrow temperature range, but the time the solder melts it's spent (the other reason you don't 'carry the solder on the iron' to the work.....no flux action). After it's stripped the oxides and carried them away it will flash off (don't hit the vapor....it's the wrong kind.....). You want to keep the het on as this happens (smoking stops) as that clears the flux allowing the molten alloy to get atomic level contact with the metals.
Now, for a very critical part, the connection needs to be above melting point by 30 or more degrees, uniformly hot, then allowed to cool until well solid (say 30 or 40 below, 70 or more degrees from the start) without being disturbed mechanically. The situation is like some concentrates solder doesn't 'set up' promptly at a single temperature, but rather has a 'pasty range' where extremely small and not well linked crystals from rather than what we want. This is the so called 'cold solder joint', one where heat wasn't controlled such that it wasn't hot enough at a critical point. Marginal heat transfer makes this much more severe since it's nearly impossible to routinely set up the right conditions of very uniform connection heated uniformly through cooling normally (stress free) and not moving in the process.
Avoid 'reflow soldering' by hand, that's for rain gutters. You want to heat the joint, apply the solder, burn out the flux, give it a small bit more time to reach stable temperature then pull the iron holding everything else stable.
Cleanness, heat and flux. With modern materials, the first is less important than in the past, good gear and technique make control of heat and effective use of flux pretty routine if you know the rules. The common mistakes include not adding enough fresh flux, poor use of heat (generally too cold) and moving stuff too soon. It's interesting to note that not all defective solder connections can be found by inspection. You have to build the quality in at assembly, you can't inspect it in later on.
OF
PhotoRider
Diagnosed with level 11 G.A.S.
wow - the topic has moved to using the Hammer as a soldering iron. Normally, we talk about the other way around - using a heater to Fu$Kcombustion...
your order has been canceled.
Nick. the old tanks work once you remove the stainless screen in the mouth piece, and the way the tanks worked you dont need the Stainless top cap.
kevin
Well-Known Member
Guys sorry on the issue of the Warranty on the Core it is a 1 year limited warranty against manufacturers defects not 90 days we are changing that as we speak. Also we are not responsible for anyone damaging anything or any damages the core could cause in case someone decides to run 7.4v with a blue or red hammer.
thanks! I'll give you guys a call tomorrow
No Omicron can power the 7.4v Hercules not with the HVD not with any battery.
The Only way the Omicron is gonna get a Hercules for now is 2 ways.
1. Core
2. The Jury is still out on the 3.7v Red Rod.
TommydCat
Well-Known Member
(Sorry to drag it back up, but been playing with the Bender a bit yesterday). I've noticed the original 18350's (non-AWs) don't heat up the 1200F hammer nearly as bright as the AWs. There can still be combustion, but it isn't on quite the same hair trigger it seems to have with the AW 18350s.
I'm really hoping The Core will help me dial that in. (Is there a dial? I got some specs, but still want pics!). And, of course, Iris 2.0, but I'm finding the Bender takes a bit more concentration and easier to deal with sitting down than on the go, therefore finding a place to plug in shouldn't bug me for a short while... at least a sesh...
The Core will allow you to fine tune the voltage with the Bender or any other attachment. We are working on producing adapters to work with other vaporizers but still in development stage
druminfected
Well-Known Member
Wow super fast shipping I got my replacement persei tops and stainless top cap for the hercules already!
I just noticed when I put my Ce4 clearomizer on the double top, only one of the sides work. Is that normal? The light turns on and everything as well
I just noticed when I put my Ce4 clearomizer on the double top, only one of the sides work. Is that normal? The light turns on and everything as well
Can you try a normal cartridge on both sides one at a time and see what happens?
druminfected
Well-Known Member
yes both sides work with a normal cartridge on the double top.
Im putting my money on the ce4 adapter tolerance levels.
druminfected
Well-Known Member
So I finally tried to use my hercules again with the new top, but when I put the hercules on either my single or double top persei head, the blue light flashes twices whenever I try and press the button. I've tried new AW IMR full charged and other batteries with same problem.
If anyone could help out i'd greatly appreciate it because every time I think it's going to work something happens
Goin to take apart the Hercules and reassemble it and see if it helps.
If anyone could help out i'd greatly appreciate it because every time I think it's going to work something happens
Goin to take apart the Hercules and reassemble it and see if it helps.
if the blue light flashes that means there is a issue in the assembly.
druminfected
Well-Known Member
the blue light flashes even without the hercules attached to my persei. I've tried to adjust the spring and different batteries too
Update:
I found out it flashes with the single top but not with the double top. So it must be the single top head, but I JUST got these back today from being exchanged last week and the single top don't even work.
Are the batteries charged? Can you try it with another battery?
druminfected
Well-Known Member
yes all batteries are charged, I have 4 trustfire 18350's as well as new AW IMR's I've tried. I also tried using the SS tube and the 18350's with same flashing results when I pressed the button. I've tried 18650 AW IMR batteries as well.
When I try all the batteries with the double top the light stays blue when pressed and nothing attached. It must be this single top. I'm kinda frustrated because I just sent this back in last week to get another broke top
Should I just make another ticket then G?
Just ship it back no ticket needed for this ship it directly to me.
Print this conversation out and write in big letters attention G. Once i get it i will put in a request to credit your account for the shipping.
Once i have it in hand i need to diagnose the issue on why this has happened. Trust em this is only the second time i have seen this happen.