Discontinued The Okin by D.M. Pipes

[°k]

Okay, riddle me this! I could make the box even smaller if you place the okin into the box in two pieces. But, while the device is separated into two halves, you can't have a pre-loaded bowl all ready.

Do you think that the convenience of a pre-loaded chamber is worth the additional box length? I am on the fence....

I've just received silicone caps for my air stems and this got me thinking... now transposing it to the Okin... you could maybe use a small cork top to close the part with the herb in it while in 2 parts?
I might be wrong but if you can get a "sheet/bark" of cork you could stamp quite a few of these in it? and apparently cork has a decent heat resistance.

I like the idea of the Okin being in 2 parts for the kinda ritual way of preparing your vape, I know it's silly because you'd have to open it anyway to prepare it but it's more like you "build"/put something together before enjoying it (a bit like rolling before smoking, damn I miss rolling ).

Edit: @marduk below, good idea, that'd help preventing the stem and the "head" from knocking into one another and make scratches or noise in your pocket while walking.

 

[marduk]

Okay, riddle me this! I could make the box even smaller if you place the okin into the box in two pieces. But, while the device is separated into two halves, you can't have a pre-loaded bowl all ready.

Do you think that the convenience of a pre-loaded chamber is worth the additional box length? I am on the fence....

Would it be feasible to put on one side of the box a nub that is basically a replica of the front end of the stem, including a groove for thread? It could be shorter than the corresponding stem portion... as long as the grip is secure, you could pre-load the bowl and push it onto the nub which would hold it in place and prevent any material from falling out.

 

[Dan Morrison]

I've just received silicone caps for my air stems and this got me thinking... now transposing it to the Okin... you could maybe use a small cork top to close the part with the herb in it while in 2 parts?
I might be wrong but if you can get a "sheet/bark" of cork you could stamp quite a few of these in it? and apparently cork has a decent heat resistance.

Oh yesss, I do like that idea. But you and @Marduck have given me an idea that I think would work just as well, but would be easier to make and wouldn't wear as fast as a cork.

Imagine the action of putting a AA battery into the battery slot. It would be exactly like that, but the compartment would be lined at the two ends with cork. So when you press the tip in, it would make a nice seal against the cork. And it would be held really securely. I like it!

I like the idea of the Okin being in 2 parts for the kinda ritual way of preparing your vape, I know it's silly because you'd have to open it anyway to prepare it but it's more like you "build"/put something together before enjoying it (a bit like rolling before smoking, damn I miss rolling

I think Hollywood has captured this beautifully in the shot where the bad guy opens the gun-case on the roof top and then assembles their sniper rifle. *drool*. Okay, that settles it!

We're really getting somewhere now!

 

[°k]

Oh yesss, I do like that idea. But you and @Marduck have given me an idea that I think would work just as well, but would be easier to make and wouldn't wear as fast as a cork.

Imagine the action of putting a AA battery into the battery slot. It would be exactly like that, but the compartment would be lined at the two ends with cork. So when you press the tip in, it would make a nice seal against the cork. And it would be held really securely. I like it!



I think Hollywood has captured this beautifully in the shot where the bad guy opens the gun-case on the roof top and then assembles their sniper rifle. *drool*. Okay, that settles it!

We're really getting somewhere now!

Indeed, let's make it a case! still with a small charcoals compartment, right?

 

[marduk]

The sniper rifle's gotta have bullets.

 

[Dan Morrison]

Hahaha, yes. Gutta have the charcoals in there!

 

[ANOKHI]

@Dan Morrison I'll say it again....Stellar piece. Just hearing the intricacies of how the Okin is being made with so much consideration, and all its parts is nothing short of amazing. Imo... The larger box is great for storage and it still remains portable. I would rather not comprise on convience of the preload as that is the whole purpose. The smaller box creates an inconvience of sorts, as you stated, with putting separate accessories in different pockets and having them all over. One box, with all accessories included, equal superior convienence and portability.

 

[Dan Morrison]

Thank you @ANOKHI

So, I just mocked up this new case based on what we've all been discussing here. It's sort of a middle ground between my larger design and the absolute smallest size.

The final box will most likely be a slide box (like a matchbox). This mockup represents the inside box. It will be made of a dark wood, most likely walnut, thin walls. The bottom of the stem compartment will be lined on the bottom with grey industrial felt. The metal tip compartment will be lined with cork and felt. The tip will fit in snug, as to make a seal on the open end so that you can pre-load a chamber.

The extra room will be left open, and may be filled with charcoals, a zippo, smaller sized bic lighter, matches, glass vials, thread, etc...

It'll hold 50+ charcoals.

The sleeve that will slide over the wooden inner box will be constructed of book board (what they use in bookbinding to make hardcover books) that has been covered with Japanese book cloth. The texture and feel of book cloth is timeless, and the construction materials and methods that I can borrow from the bookbinding world will make this more economical to make.

Here is the texture I will be going for.

Colour of the book cloth is still up in the air, but I'm between a tan sand colour and a nice classy grey... hmmm.

 

[Snappo]

Thank you @ANOKHI

So, I just mocked up this new case based on what we've all been discussing here. It's sort of a middle ground between my larger design and the absolute smallest size.

The final box will most likely be a slide box (like a matchbox). This mockup represents the inside box. It will be made of a dark wood, most likely walnut, thin walls. The bottom of the stem compartment will be lined on the bottom with grey industrial felt. The metal tip compartment will be lined with cork and felt. The tip will fit in snug, as to make a seal on the open end so that you can pre-load a chamber.

The extra room will be left open, and may be filled with charcoals, a zippo, smaller sized bic lighter, matches, glass vials, thread, etc...

It'll hold 50+ charcoals.

The sleeve that will slide over the wooden inner box will be constructed of book board (what they use in bookbinding to make hardcover books) that has been covered with Japanese book cloth. The texture and feel of book cloth is timeless, and the construction materials and methods that I can borrow from the bookbinding world will make this more economical to make.

Here is the texture I will be going for.

Colour of the book cloth is still up in the air, but I'm between a tan sand colour and a nice classy grey... hmmm.

This is how I envisioned the box you described - compartmentalized, only encased, or sleeved, by smooth rounded edges to facilitate ease in & out of pockets, and to eliminate uncomfortable sharp corners! I apologize to those who might squawk at the extra cost, but the Okin, IMO, deserves the best accoutrements!

Sleeve over box -

 

[NorVape]

Dat box tho... 

 

[marduk]

I don't know... all those compartments clash with the Okin vibe IMO. I like the simplicity of the 3-compartment matchbox with only the essential partitions. In fact, I wouldn't mind if the box were a half inch wider to accomodate the bowl sideways so the empty space would be a simple rectangle... I'm just a simple man, I guess.

 

[Dan Morrison]

@Snappo I know what you're sayin' with those rounded corners, but I just hate rounded corners, hahaha.

Plus, square corners make the inner wood box both easier to make and smaller. You actually have to make the case larger to account for the radius of the corners. Notice how in that first image you posted the case could actually be made a lot smaller if they just took the inner wooden lining out and tossed the soft shell.

Plus, everything these days is made with rounded corners, my hands want some damn edges! I miss the classic look and feel of 80's electronics, haha.

@marduk , I tried it with the tip oriented 90 degrees to the stem, and it just looked weird to me. Plus, my thinking is that you may want to put a long glass vial with cork along that long edge... You could really go either way with it, i'll feel it out as I go.

 

[°k]

@Dan Morrison, if the metal tip fits snug, how do you get it out? one would pull on the prongs I think risking twisting them no? plus when taking it off if there's a small resistance you might end up spilling some herb out of it?

Also, here's an idea. if you put the metal tip perpendicular to the stem and make some small notches and a couple of small removable walls then one could decide the size of the compartments for the lighter and coals and maybe cleaning tools?

And since you dig Japan, you could use it as a bento box

PS: please pardon the poor skills used to make this.

 

[Madcap79]

I dig the box design. I would imagine the tip is light enough that picking it up by the prong wouldn't hurt? Is the fit so close that there is friction taking it out? Maybe for a little extra you can customize the box to fit the individuals need?

Edit: @Dan Morrison I vote for grey, for what it's worth.

 

[ANOKHI]

@Dan Morrison I love the box design and Japan motif. Simplistic and beautiful. The size is nice as well. Would like to see In the box, one small compartment that houses the charcoal perhaps Along side the stem or next to the tip. Just to separate. Then leave the open space for your essentials. All in all. Just fabulous. FYI: I LOVE the tan/sand color. It screams ancient Japan, respect, culture and taste. Good job Dan

 

[Dan Morrison]

@Dan Morrison, if the metal tip fits snug, how do you get it out? one would pull on the prongs I think risking twisting them no? plus when taking it off if there's a small resistance you might end up spilling some herb out of it?

You'd just pull on the prong. The prongs are fairly stiff (you would really have to try to bend them too far by hand). The resistance won't be strong, it'll be held against the cork by the springiness of thick felt, it'll slide right out...probably.

You're drawing is great, haha. But making wooden dividers would be quite a lot of extra work, especially if they need to fit snug into slots. Cutting grooves into the walls also means that the wall needs to slightly thicker. I do like the idea, but I'm really trying to keep the box as simple as possible, moving dividers are just not in the budget.

@Madcap79 , I'd rather just stay away from any custom work for the okin, kills the workflow.

 

[Madcap79]

I completely understand. Any estimated ship date for the testers? Like to see more of this beauty in action!

 

[mixchu69]

Good question.

The wood tenon has a groove cut into it for the thread. You basically just hold the end of the thread with your thumb pressed against the wood, and then wind the thread around the wood. It will overlap itself, so you don't have to worry about tying off the first loop. You wind a few more times until the thickness is right, and then make a final loose turn, allowing the thread to slack, then slip the end of the thread under the loose turn and pull tight, the loose thread will pull tight. Then trim the ends off.

You can wax the thread a bit to make it easier to work with, or wax the thread after winding it to make it slide and compress better. After inserting the stem into the metal tip a few times, the thread will be thoroughly compressed and the fibers will all stick together, almost looking like a solid mass.

For tying on the fabric filter, it's the same process. The fabric is first cut in a rough square and placed over the airway opening. The stem is inserted into the metal tip. This wedges the fabric tight, and keeps everything snug and in place while you wind the thread. When you're done winding the thread, you trim the excess fabric with a razor blade.

I know, I know, it seems tedious when I have it all typed out like that, haha. But it's not that bad!

Also, once you get the thread in place and the thickness is correct it will last a long time before you need to replace it.

I will be posting detailed instructions about this with photographs to make it as easy as possible.

The main advantage of using thread is that the groove cut into the wood can be much shallower than a groove that would have to be cut to use a rubber O-ring. This makes for a larger inside diameter of the airway, and a stronger tenon. Also, a rubber o-ring would just ruin the vibe of the entire thing, haha.

It's like tying a hook onto your fishing line, yes.. it's a bit fiddly, but once you've done it a few times it becomes second nature.

Hi Dan, i don't think of it as tedious but more of a ritual. I miss the ritual of rolling joints and blunts. I loved the process, even though it took a few extra minutes. I don't combust anymore, so I don't have any new rituals with my vaporizers. It's all the same, shred in SCS grinder and put into bowl. I miss those times when I would try to roll the perfect joint while my friends will be waiting. But during that wait time, I had such good conversations with my friends because we were all in a good mood eagerly waiting to get medicated. Just my thoughts...

 

[NorVape]

Those could've been my words, @mixchu69, part of what intrigues me with this vape is the whole ritual of preparing for a session.

I used to spend a long time rolling the perfect fat jay, and then spend an hour or two smoking it if I were alone. Sometimes I miss that dearly. Except ofcourse the combustion in it self.

 

[Dan Morrison]

I feel like a large part of the pleasure in these actions that we miss from combusting is that they engaged our creative side, and allowed us to enjoy the experience without negative distraction.

In most cases a ritual object cannot be a total pleasure to use if it's frustrating or ugly.

A beautiful object is a pain in the ass if it doesn't function properly, and an ugly object doesn't engage our senses.

Now... there are exceptions. An object can be ugly, but develops a certain charm over time and use. Or an object may not function well, but you've grown to work around these faults... and consider them as quirks. Kind of like a shitty car that you love but also hate, haha.

But, generally, I think that a balance of good design and aesthetics is the right path to making a pleasurable object.

The rolling paper is such a simple object, but it fulfills its role beautifully. It's like a blank canvas that ignites creativity. It focuses our mind without clouding the experience with frustration over a poor design. If your technique is sound, the paper will do what it's designed to do, leaving our minds free to enjoy the now.

Anyhow, I hope that with the okin I can bring back some of that vibe to the vaporization experience. I want it to be simple and intuitive, nothing to become frustrated with. And every detail, right down to the o-rings, should engage your senses in a positive way. And there will be lots of room to get creative with different chamber set ups, filter materials, and thread colours.

The charcoals themselves are also a big part of it. By themselves they are quite beautiful, and customizing them to burn and draw air differently is really fun!

 

[Dan Morrison]

So I decided to do some more extensive testing on 1" length charcoals. Usually I make them 1/2".

I wanted to bring you guys along for the process, and give you an idea of how you could make your own charcoals!

I used bamboo that you could get at any garden store. I used a 5 foot long piece of cane, which will produce about fifty 1" charcoals. Price for a 5 foot length of cane is generally around 50 cents - 1 dollar.

I cut these with my bandsaw, but you could use a cheap fine-toothed handsaw.

The bamboo segments were placed into a candy tin, any sturdy tin with a good lid will work well. Holes have been punched into the top to let gases escape (very important, or the top will pop off!).

I tossed it into my fireplace, and let it heat up slowly. You'll see steam and volatile gases start to escape.

Next, the escaping gases will ignite as the tin is pushed further into the fire. Here you see the steady jet flame that is produced, it sounds like a jet too! it's important to not let this happen too quickly as the pressure may pop the top off. These gases are generally referred to as "wood gas". Some people even use wood gas to run gasoline engines!

As the gases start to taper off, the tin should be pushed into the hottest part of the fire. You can monitor the escaping gases by looking at the flame produced near the punched holes in the tin.

The tin needs to get red hot, the best charcoal is produced at 700-1000 °C (1292 - 1832 °F). At this carbonization temperature the fixed carbon content of the charcoal will be between 92-93 percent. This is way higher than most commercially available charcoal. This also means that the volatile content will be around 2-3%, extremely low. The remainder is made up of ash (mostly calcium).

A BBQ or hookah charcoal (coconut husk), especially the cheaper brands and compressed bricks will have a fixed carbon content of around 50-80%, with the remainder being mostly volatile mater. This volatile mater is what gives lower quality charcoal it's bad smell.

The only other charcoal on the market (that I know of) that is comparable to my bamboo charcoal is Binchōtan, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Binchōtan

This is why you can't compare the taste, smell, or emissions between normal charcoal, and properly made bamboo charcoal.

Here, you see that the volatile gases have all escaped, and there is no more flame near the punched holes. The steel is bright red/orange, indicating a temperature above 700 °C inside the tin (probably close to 900 °C). I leave it in the coals for a few minutes before taking it out to let the tin cool off.

The tin must be cool to the touch before opening the lid. If the lid is opened at any time during the process, oxygen will get to the bamboo charcoals and they will start to burn.

Here is the finished charcoal, the carbonization process took about 10-15 minutes for a tin this size. The yield was 50 charcoals.

Since these are twice the length of the usual 1/2" charcoals, they are taking up much more space, but even still I am able to fit about 35 charcoals into the prototype case. Looks sweet! These charcoals are quite hard, they have a high pitched sound when you hit them. You could make wind chimes out of this stuff!

I'm not sure why there are deep vibrant blue on some of these charcoals... I assume it's some sort of thin oxide layer. They look exactly like the oxides produced on polished steel when it's heated, though.. to much lower temperatures than that used in this context. hmmm.

 

[Enchantre]

That is totally amazing, Dan... thank you. I feel absolutely honored to be able to peek into your workshop!

 

[Madcap79]

Wow.....Amazing like @Enchantre said! Very cool that we can make our own charcoals if we like. It just gets better it seems. Great stuff!

 

[Dan Morrison]

So far I really enjoy the 1" charcoals.

Also, I am definitely adding a second, smaller, brass screw to the prongs. Silver solder is out, mechanical connections are the way to go!

And I think I will shorten the length of the bamboo segment of the stem by about an inch.

An update about the testers. The design is so close to being perfect... I feel it in my bones. It just wouldn't have made sense to rush the testers out while I was still making tweaks to the prototypes. Every new model gets better, but reveals small improvements that I had to explore! So, soon!

 

[lazylathe]

That is a thing of beauty!!!
Amazing craftsmanship!!