The Nomad From Morwood

[sixstringsmash]

@Other Side , dope photos!



If you put the cover on backwards, you won't be able to fully push the sleeve on. It's only one way that fits.

Notes on Carepackages

Ok, so this is what I've come up with for the care packages, they'll be going out to everyone.

I decided that I wanted to make the In-Body screens from scratch. I've ordered in 4 different mesh sizes in 316 SS, varying thickness/open area. I'll test them all out.

I've ordered tool steel to custom make a punch and die set so I can punch out screens that are perfectly sized, with a high quality cut edge.

The care package will also include:

- Hex keys (for those who don't have them yet, or need a new one)
- Scotch brite material, ultra-fine, for cleaning the inside of the button.
- Sandpaper for micro-adjusting the fit of the heater module hole, if needed.
- Electrical Contact grease, specially formulated to protect electrical contact surfaces from oxidation, arcing, etc.. Should work even better than Vaseline.

Hot Button Theory...for now

I've been trying to figure out why a couple people experienced the hot button issue. And I think I've got a pretty good theory as to why. I completed the buttons months ago, and because they were sitting, unused, they were allowed to form an oxide layer. I didn't think about it before sending them out... I should have cleaned them again.

I think this initial layer was adding contact resistance, making it more susceptible to arcing, and resulting tarnish/oxidation.

After a thorough clean with the Scotch Brite, and then a thin application of contact grease, the hot button issue should be solved for good. And perhaps increased performance will result.

Also, the contact grease is designed to give lubrication to sliding mechanisms, and will greatly improve the feel/sound of the button.

Great stuff Dan! Can't wait for my care package. Just wanted to ask this real quick, if we wanted to put some lubricant on their in the interim before we receive the package would Vaseline still be an acceptable substitute or should we avoid using it? I remember you said you wanted to test it a little further before saying if it's alright or not.

 

[RelaxedNow]

@Other Side , dope photos!



If you put the cover on backwards, you won't be able to fully push the sleeve on. It's only one way that fits.

Notes on Carepackages

Ok, so this is what I've come up with for the care packages, they'll be going out to everyone.

I decided that I wanted to make the In-Body screens from scratch. I've ordered in 4 different mesh sizes in 316 SS, varying thickness/open area. I'll test them all out.

I've ordered tool steel to custom make a punch and die set so I can punch out screens that are perfectly sized, with a high quality cut edge.

The care package will also include:

- Hex keys (for those who don't have them yet, or need a new one)
- Scotch brite material, ultra-fine, for cleaning the inside of the button.
- Sandpaper for micro-adjusting the fit of the heater module hole, if needed.
- Electrical Contact grease, specially formulated to protect electrical contact surfaces from oxidation, arcing, etc.. Should work even better than Vaseline.

Yeah, I understand that you thought about the backward cover thing and prevented it from occurring. Figured that out the first time I tried to put it on. However, after 5 or 6 draws, I tend to try anyway.

The care package looks good. Any thoughts on selling packs of stem screens any time soon?

 

[Dan Morrison]

@sixstringsmash , I feel good recommending the Vaseline now.

I remembered that the 'Mechanical mod' scene, for vaping e-juice, uses contact grease in there mechanical buttons, to solve the hot button thing. Seems like some people like Vaseline, others prefer the purpose-made grease. I did some research and feel like I've got the best stuff coming in, but I've been using Vaseline in the mean-time without any ill effects.

Kitchen-grade scotch brite pads can be used to clean the internals as well. A little disc cut with scissors, pushed into the button hole, and then spun around with the help of a pencil pushing down on the pad. SPin till the bronze is polished brite, then apply thin coating of Vaseline.

I'd avoid using the kitchen scotch bright on the heater module contact surface (the bottom bronze plate), it will leave tiny scratches. My ulta-fine scotch brite will do a better job with that.

@RelaxedNow , I will be providing anything that's needed, including the stem screens.

I'll be making the tooling to cut my own screens for the future, so I'll be all out of screens till I get those tools made, hopefully in the next few days. I'll be testing those various meshes out as well, to see if there is one particular mesh that is more durable than the stock screens.

 

[Vaporware]

They’re a bit expensive, but I really like the double-weave titanium screens that a couple of places offer (NewVape for example). If you’re trying different screens, I think that’s one to give a shot. Rigid, durable, good material and nothing solid seems to get through mine.

 

[delloy]

@Dan Morrison Will the new in body screen also be basket shaped? The basket would only need to be fairly shallow and inserted upside down to give that few extra mm clearance above the heater.

 

[marduk]

@Dan Morrison Will the new in body screen also be basket shaped? The basket would only need to be fairly shallow and inserted upside down to give that few extra mm clearance above the heater.

If the screen is rigid and flat and cut perfectly to the exact size, I don't think there would be anything to worry about... Unless I'm misunderstanding the issue, the screen would have to get dislodged and touch both the center post and the shell of the heater at the same time for the short to happen.

(The wording of Dan's initial post about this gave me the impression that if the screen were to touch the center post or coil without touching the shell, there wouldn't be a meltdown.)

@Dan Morrison if I got the wrong impression by reading between the lines, please correct me! It wouldn't be the first time I've misread something...

 

[delloy]

@marduk I did use my Nomad with a screen from a crafty, as a few here recommended it fitted fairly well. At first no issues it even seemed to work better than the double stem screen method. But then after a few more stems, with removing and inserting, the screen eventually became deformed. It touched the heater and did exactly what @Dan Morrison said it would and burnt a whole in the screen instantly. Which does for obvious reasons cause me some concern and unless the screen is strong enough to withstand repeated removal and insertion I can see this happening again quite easily hence the need for a few more mm clearance

A solid perforated disc something like what is in a vapcap or grasshopper but on a larger scale might suit in this application more than a wire screen. Although maybe the solid perforated disc would cause airflow restriction issues. Whatever is decided I’m pretty sure Dan will come up with a solution that will work just fine.

 

[Xelatsok]

My Nomad is yet to arrive, but FWIR it may benefit from some airflow restriction, at least with low temp heater.

 

[Dan Morrison]

@marduk, My thoughts exactly. But with product design... it always seems like whatever you think is least likely to happen....happens...

@delloy, Thanks for the feedback.

I will experiment with domed vs un-domed screen, see which would be best. My gut says un-domed would be better, because a domed screen would not sit flush with the step in the wood.. so may cause more deformation with repeated insertion of the glass stem.

Were you removing and re-inserting the screen? What do you think caused the screen to distort so much?

I looked into perforated metal sheet as well, that could be a possibility for the future, but there are some complications, mainly installing it, or removing it for cleaning.

Also, I tend to think of worse case scenarios... and in the event the metal sheet material came into contact with the center post and shell, it would cause a hard short that wouldn't instantly burn itself out.

I like how the metal mesh is it's own fuse, added safety measure.

Also, for the metal to be stiff enough, it would have to be relatively thick... and so may act as a heat sink, extending the pre-heat and cool down times.

BUT, it's definitely something I am keen on, so I'll be working on it.

The mesh material I ordered should be pretty darn stiff, so we'll see.

I might be better off making 'top-hat' style screens for the end of the stem. The ones that can easily be removed with your fingers.

I also think that I could add a rigid perforated disc to the end of the heater modules instead, permanently welded on. I think this is the best solution in the long run.

For now, I am just thinking about ideas to help the early adopters.

@Xelatsok, I've been experimenting with draw restriction accessories. And It shows potential. One method of trying it out for yourself is to put a piece of masking tape over the bottom air hole, then poke pin holes into the tape, starting with a few... and poking more holes to slowly decrease draw restriction until you reach the sweet spot. Personally I like the open draw, but it may be helpful for some.

 

[Copacetic]

@marduk I did use my Nomad with a screen from a crafty, as a few here recommended it fitted fairly well. At first no issues it even seemed to work better than the double stem screen method. But then after a few more stems, with removing and inserting, the screen eventually became deformed. It touched the heater and did exactly what @Dan Morrison said it would and burnt a whole in the screen instantly. Which does for obvious reasons cause me some concern and unless the screen is strong enough to withstand repeated removal and insertion I can see this happening again quite easily hence the need for a few more mm clearance

A solid perforated disc something like what is in a vapcap or grasshopper but on a larger scale might suit in this application more than a wire screen. Although maybe the solid perforated disc would cause airflow restriction issues. Whatever is decided I’m pretty sure Dan will come up with a solution that will work just fine.

I would think a wire screen of reasonable stiffness would be fine myself.

I'm curious, why would we need to remove and refit this screen?
The screens in my Milaanas are permanent and can't move at all, and are fine despite years of use (clean still too).
Are we talking about the same screen?
I may have the wrong end of the stick, so just for clarity, the screen I thought we're talking about is (going to be) fitted in the body, above the heater, and wouldn't need to be removed often at all (if ever).
Set me straight if you're talking about something else!

 

[marduk]

@marduk I did use my Nomad with a screen from a crafty, as a few here recommended it fitted fairly well. At first no issues it even seemed to work better than the double stem screen method. But then after a few more stems, with removing and inserting, the screen eventually became deformed.

I have a Crafty, and yes I can see those screens getting deformed easily. They are super thin and flexible, more than most others I've used. Hopefully the ones Dan will be testing are stiffer.

 

[sixstringsmash]

Are you guys using the fine bottom screens or the coarse top screens from the crafty/mighty? The fine bottom screens are super flimsy but I've been using the coarse top screen in my nomad for a while now without any issue. It's very rigid.

 

[RelaxedNow]

@Dan Morrison, it seems to me that the top-hats, though convenient, would still require the body screen. Otherwise, we’d still need to fiddle with the upper stem screen. Or am I misunderstanding your post? Yeah, it could be I’m not picturing it the same as you. Perhaps you’re talking about top-hat-on-top-hat?

I would like to see loading simplified, but I do understand that it is more complex than it might seem. My Nomad is working too well to screw it up over what is really a minor issue, so take your time.

@sixstringsmash, I did manage to slightly combust last night (hurt like hell, but my wife threw a bucket of water on me, thank God!).

Seriously though, I did see slight combustion, but only because I intentionally pre-heated for way too long (close to or at 15 seconds) with a fresh battery, and took a huge draw. Under normal use, I’ve still not seen any combustion with either heater.

I typically pre-heat for about 3-10 seconds, depending on status of battery, first draw vs. added draws, sensation of heat in my mouth, and gut feeling. Sometimes the first draw only serves to remind me the battery is weakening, and to heat longer. Also, I sometimes cycle off-on during draws if it’s feeling hot, which sometimes occurs when I’m trying to stretch the load. I may be drawing slightly harder than some also (though it seems slow to me), as faster airflow definitely cools the heater. So far, that’s worked. Again, this is mostly with the high-heat coil.

 

[Dan Morrison]

Okay, so interesting test results.

Vaseline works way better than the commercially available contact grease. Why, no idea. But I'm glad, because Vaseline is practically the same as the mineral oil I use for my wood finish... so any excess that gets on the wood is completely fine to be rubbed in. So that's that.

I also made a custom weak button spring to test. This makes the button extremely easy to press and hold down. No loss of connection quality with the Vaseline applied. I'll need to get these custom made, so it'll be a little bit before I have any in stock. But I will be carrying them, and possibly sending out both springs in future batches, so the user can pick a spring based on their use patterns.

I went with a super stiff screen material. I see no deformation happening from stem insertion/removal. You really have to put force on it with a pencil to deform/remove it.

With a stiff screen, the advantage is durability. The disadvantage is difficulty of removal. This would not be a convenient thing to be removing on a weekly, or even monthly basis. I could see maybe bi-yearly replacement being acceptable.

From what people say about other vapes who use an above-heater screen, and the fact that you can access this screen from both sides for periodic cleaning while it's still installed, I believe that the difficulty of removal is OK, and overshadowed by the advantage of greater durability.

The screen still acts as it's own fuse in case there is a short, but... I don't see that happening easily.

As for loading. Here are my new thoughts.

I like the In-body screen for ease of use, but only for use with herbs. They tend to tamp down and stay put, wherever you load them into the stem. So you can still adjust your chamber depth.

BUT, with loose leaf tobacco, the material always dries and falls down, even when tamped down tight. So, you loose your nicely packed chamber instantly. If you don't load the glass stem flush with the opening, so that you get a tight sandwich between the In-body screen and the glass stem screen... then you'll have a bad time when the tobacco becomes loose and just whirls around in a wide open chamber.

For tobacco, I still resort to using two screens in the glass stem.

@RelaxedNow , My idea was to replace the top stem screen, with a top hat screen. The top hat screen is only there as a means of keeping your material from falling out of the end of the glass stem. With the little lip of a top hat, you can pull the screen out with your fingers, instead of pushing it out or picking it out with a tool. That's the only difference.

Traditionally, I guess you would load the top hat screen itself. I'm not talking about that particular method.

 

[Bdubbdiblets]

So I've decided to get a custom sleeve....

As if I wasn't excited before....

I need to stay distracted these next few months!

 

[natural farmer]

Okay, so interesting test results.

Vaseline works way better than the commercially available contact grease. Why, no idea. But I'm glad, because Vaseline is practically the same as the mineral oil I use for my wood finish... so any excess that gets on the wood is completely fine to be rubbed in. So that's that.

I also made a custom weak button spring to test. This makes the button extremely easy to press and hold down. No loss of connection quality with the Vaseline applied. I'll need to get these custom made, so it'll be a little bit before I have any in stock. But I will be carrying them, and possibly sending out both springs in future batches, so the user can pick a spring based on their use patterns.

I went with a super stiff screen material. I see no deformation happening from stem insertion/removal. You really have to put force on it with a pencil to deform/remove it.

With a stiff screen, the advantage is durability. The disadvantage is difficulty of removal. This would not be a convenient thing to be removing on a weekly, or even monthly basis. I could see maybe bi-yearly replacement being acceptable.

From what people say about other vapes who use an above-heater screen, and the fact that you can access this screen from both sides for periodic cleaning while it's still installed, I believe that the difficulty of removal is OK, and overshadowed by the advantage of greater durability.

The screen still acts as it's own fuse in case there is a short, but... I don't see that happening easily.

As for loading. Here are my new thoughts.

I like the In-body screen for ease of use, but only for use with herbs. They tend to tamp down and stay put, wherever you load them into the stem. So you can still adjust your chamber depth.

BUT, with loose leaf tobacco, the material always dries and falls down, even when tamped down tight. So, you loose your nicely packed chamber instantly. If you don't load the glass stem flush with the opening, so that you get a tight sandwich between the In-body screen and the glass stem screen... then you'll have a bad time when the tobacco becomes loose and just whirls around in a wide open chamber.

For tobacco, I still resort to using two screens in the glass stem.

@RelaxedNow , My idea was to replace the top stem screen, with a top hat screen. The top hat screen is only there as a means of keeping your material from falling out of the end of the glass stem. With the little lip of a top hat, you can pull the screen out with your fingers, instead of pushing it out or picking it out with a tool. That's the only difference.

Traditionally, I guess you would load the top hat screen itself. I'm not talking about that particular method.

But isn't Vaseline a petroleum product? Anything more organic for such an application? I would prefer this personally...
Oh, an I think screens might even never need replacement.

 

[Vape Dr.]

But isn't Vaseline a petroleum product? Anything more organic for such an application? I would prefer this personally...
Oh, an I think screens might even never need replacement.

I use CBD chapstick. It works very well

 

[Dan Morrison]

@natural farmer, Vaseline is organic. It's also a waste product. So, I'm cool with it.

@Vape Dr., You mean, You use CBD chapstick on the inside of the button? If so, what are the inactive ingredients?

 

[CL52613]

With the heater of the Nomad so easily removed I am not sure why there is so much concern for a screen to protect it. I would think there would be very little material that could get down to the heater using the double screen loading method, and using an Enano; which has no screen on stem end near the heater there is never any material on the heater screen, unless the stem is overfilled. With the Nomad heater being removable, I would think cleaning it, for those of us that are anal, would be much better than taking a chance of a protective screen shorting out against the heater. Using a perforated metal disk would definitely change the vaporizer's production qualities, possibly adding conduction to this great convection design. For myself, and I have serious dexterity issues, the double screen seems to be almost ideal. Using a top hat screen design for the top of the stem would be a simple and very user friendly improvement. It would protect the heater from any loose material while also aiding the stem loading process. Dan is the man, and I have confidence in his design and application wherewithal to find a solution, if one is truly required, for what seems to be such a minor issue. Though I might be influenced by the fact that my Nomad is among those in the second batch being assembled for delivery and just want it to get here,

 

[Dan Morrison]

If anyone is looking to get pouches made, I just wanted to put it out there that I am thinking about offering custom pouches for the Nomads... so maybe hold off until I've figured that out... or not.. whatever ya like! ha.

Here is a little album of some old pouches I used to make with my pipes. All reclaimed leather.

 

[cpk]

Wow! You are the man Dan! Those cases are beautiful!

 

[Mr. Me2]

If anyone is looking to get pouches made, I just wanted to put it out there that I am thinking about offering custom pouches for the Nomads... so maybe hold off until I've figured that out... or not.. whatever ya like! ha.

Here is a little album of some old pouches I used to make with my pipes. All reclaimed leather.

A leatherworker too!?! I think you are officially a renaissance man!

More absolutely beautiful work from @Dan Morrison. No question I will wait for one. Since I think I’m miles away from a Nomad of my very own, it’s easy to be patient.

 

[sixstringsmash]

If anyone is looking to get pouches made, I just wanted to put it out there that I am thinking about offering custom pouches for the Nomads... so maybe hold off until I've figured that out... or not.. whatever ya like! ha.

Here is a little album of some old pouches I used to make with my pipes. All reclaimed leather.

 

[superdang9000]

Holy crap man, yes please! That's what I was just looking to have made, haha.

 

[duff]

Having fun over here.
Low-medium heater