Two notes:
1. If your button feels stiff or sticky, loosen the pressure on the connector bridge. The connector bridge puts pressure on the battery, which in-turn puts pressure on the button. If it's too tight, the button will feel stiffer than normal.
The button sleeve is made from Delrin, impregnated with teflon fibers. As the button 'wears-in', the smoothness and feel of the button will greatly improve. This is a dry sliding fit to avoid lubricants that could gunk up the connection point. Conductive lubricants may cause shorts if applied incorrectly... so I thought it best to avoid that as well.
2. If you want to skip the wear-in period for the stem O-Rings, or want to make the stem easier to push in/pull out. Apply a very thin, invisibly thin, coating of cooking oil to the outside of your glass stem. It will slide very easily after that.
@Summer , I definitely thought about that... so I'm open for discussion.
Here are my thoughts on it... but obviously the experience of everyone here outweighs my own... so again, I'm totally open to hear your thoughts as well.
I think the filtration achieved from all glass screens is not quite as good as a mesh. You can still have fine particles come through... maybe it's as big of an issue as I think.
Since the OD of the glass stem must be perfectly straight and uniform to play nicely with the O-Rings, I fear that only highly skilled scientific glass lamp-workers would have the ability to consistently make such a stem. Could be a manufacturing challenge for sure.
Fixed distance from heater to chamber.
And, yep, I'll offer a sleeve replacement service.
@natural farmer , Conduction module may be tricky. I could imagine a heater module with built-in herb chamber... but the chamber would get to be fairly small. I think
@sixstringsmash has the right idea... for a hybrid convection/conduction steel/silver insert that would go into the glass stem.
Also, with conduction, you've got the heat up time to contend with. Heat dissipation can be challenging in a small vape made from wood.
And as a final nail in the coffin.. without electronics, I imagine it would be difficult to control the peak temperature.
Perhaps it's possible, but more experimentation is required... the conduction only heater module is not really on