The Mighty/Mighty+ by Storz & Bickel

blackstone

Well-Known Member
I read that wrong today and I also thought someone left a liquid pad in the capsule bottom and put herbs on top. So I just did it and it works fine!
Empties like a dream compared to the other way round too!
I probably wouldn't need anything to hold it still in there in use, it's more for transport vibration and maybe a bit of vapor density in use.
Although admittedly for transport, even just 4 pads add a bit of weight to the item!
I've also had success with cotton, the only drawbacks being having to place it, and it's hard to separate from the AVB if you're saving that.

As for marking one or two capsules in a safe and permanent way, I was toying the other day to make one hold less herbs, and I formed the top and bottom into inwards domes as much as possible.
Now in the magazine it stands out from any angle. But bear in mind, a Pad only barely fits in then or might reverse some of the doming, but it will probably still look obvious.
That's one way, others above!
 
blackstone,
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ktmstick

Well-Known Member
I read that wrong today and I also thought someone left a liquid pad in the capsule bottom and put herbs on top. So I just did it and it works fine!
Empties like a dream compared to the other way round too!
I probably wouldn't need anything to hold it still in there in use, it's more for transport vibration and maybe a bit of vapor density in use.
Although admittedly for transport, even just 4 pads add a bit of weight to the item!
I've also had success with cotton, the only drawbacks being having to place it, and it's hard to separate from the AVB if you're saving that.

As for marking one or two capsules in a safe and permanent way, I was toying the other day to make one hold less herbs, and I formed the top and bottom into inwards domes as much as possible.
Now in the magazine it stands out from any angle. But bear in mind, a Pad only barely fits in then or might reverse some of the doming, but it will probably still look obvious.
That's one way, others above!
Also tried it myself last night. Was the best use of liquid pad so far. Easy to fill, easy to empty and no vapor travelling through pad, yes more conduction/less convection but still very happy for the size of dozes I like.
 

TheMadDabber

I ° The Magician
I agree, @MonkeyTime - I don't think the tiny liquid pads were designed to be removable, nor to be used as small load dry herb spacers in the capsules. I believe they were intended to be placed in capsule and left there, to be used for concentrates. Either clean it as a unit in iso, or dispose.

Read @TheMadDabber post about using vaborbrothers ceramic screen.
Don't think that one would fit in capsule, though. Correct me if I'm wrong.

Used glass honeycomb screens and glass flowers as spacers in Ascent. Difficult with Ascent loading and unloading on the go. But easier with capsules, pre-loading and unloading at home over tray.

oczrBgcm.jpg


A bit less than half capsule, 0.06g, with 3 honeycomb glass screens on top as spacer.
190C, five draws. Noticeably denser than without spacer.

My best guesses why:
  • small loads in capsules shift/clump allowing air to bypass
  • shifted clumps get sucked to capsule lid, further removed from incoming hot air (mm's matter)
Notice how I refrained from using one of the "C" heating :worms: words?!
(I enjoy a nearly full capsule myself without any spacers)

Good stuff, good stuff my friend. The Vapor Brothers ceramic screen does not fit inside the capsules, its about the same size as the capsule capsule circumference wise. I have also tried to put the capsule and then the ceramic screen ontop, in hopes that it fits or at least part of it fits into the CU side when attached but that isnt possible, if it is it puts too much force on the unit and it was a risk I was not willing to take.

Now these ceramic screens from vapor brothers fit perfectly inside the chamber without the capsules and heat up the material better than if there were no screen in my opinion, although you do need sometype of poking tool to take the screen out as it does get stuck inside from time to time. Happy Vaping!
 

cloudsosmoke

Well-Known Member
can i ask does ceramic screen fit at bottom of mighty bowl?

thinking of using it as a bottom screen saver just sitting on top - so bottom screen would need cleaning/replacing less often
 
cloudsosmoke,

TheMadDabber

I ° The Magician
can i ask does ceramic screen fit at bottom of mighty bowl?

thinking of using it as a bottom screen saver just sitting on top - so bottom screen would need cleaning/replacing less often

I cant comment on that because Ive locked away my unit for a month in abstinence as I figure somethings out, but upon inspection, I would say that the fine screen is better at not letting particulates fall inside the unit, because the holes of the ceramic screen are somewhat bigger. Of course this depends on how fine you grind. The screen fits inside the chamber, if the chamber size does not decrease it should fit all the way down. I have fit it alittle more down than the halfway point, as I never found a need to put it all the way at the bottom. But I will tell you, at about $4.99, plus shipping and handling you cant lose. Just remember to pick up a poker tool because the ceramic screens do get stuck easily.

I have a question, has anyone had success vaping a piece of a whole bud inside the Mighty instead of grinding? Is so, is there any strategy used to get the optimal vape experience?
 

subway13029

Well-Known Member
I was supposed to send ratchet the capsules the other day but my gf forget to take to post office before we left for vacation,.he will have them shortly and hopefully see what he can come up with..
 

cloudsosmoke

Well-Known Member
yea id say heating chamber walls are vertical
id keep wire screen and just put ceramic screen on top
and ground herb on top of that

to catch the downward gunk first ..i hope

ive managed to find vapor brothers pick with reasonable shipping to uk on ebay
(..not that easy)
messaged seller to see if they can get ceramic screens ..
 
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TheMadDabber

I ° The Magician
yea id say heating chamber walls are vertical
id keep wire screen and just put ceramic screen on top
and ground herb on top of that

to catch the downward gunk first ..i hope

ive managed to find vapor brothers pick with reasonable shipping to uk on ebay
(..not that easy)
messaged seller to see if they can get ceramic screens ..

Since you put it that way, it sounds like the ceramic screens can work perfectly for that job and as a spacer. I dont work for Vapor Bros. Nor do I get paid for talking about their products, but the steel pic and the ceramic screens are very well made and the price is pretty good, I wish S&B would look into making items like these for their units.

Either way, these items are great. I use the pick to loosen up the avb inside the chamber after I have vaped, I also use the pic to remove the bottom screen from the unit, I use the flat end of the pic to straighten out the screen before putting it back and again the flat end to tamp down the screen when I put it back inside the unit, I also use the pick to scrape off residue and avb in the the Cooling unit in those hard to reach places, since the tip of the pic is angled and its just pointy enough to scrape but not too pointy to damage(depends on how youre using it of course) it feels natural and I also use it to remove the o rings.
 
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t-dub

Vapor Sloth
Using the "orange tool" to remove the screen from the bottom of the heating chamber is sub-optimal. I like the sharpy because I can grab the screen right at the counter bore and with minimal torque remove it. This really helps retain its original shape and keeps the screen nicer than assaulting it with a tool not suited to the task.
 

blackstone

Well-Known Member
Also tried it myself last night. Was the best use of liquid pad so far. Easy to fill, easy to empty and no vapor travelling through pad, yes more conduction/less convection but still very happy for the size of dozes I like.
It seems to work good, I thought it was a bit airy at 180C. But if I start it 12 or 15 degrees C higher it seems to replicate my normal use.
All in, a great way to use them on the move!
Did you notice more sticky goo at the tops? I did but maybe its CU cleaning time again!


I have a question, has anyone had success vaping a piece of a whole bud inside the Mighty instead of grinding? Is so, is there any strategy used to get the optimal vape experience?

I think I did try a small bit in it once, and went back to grinding!
With all my new found knowledge, I think it might work better if the air path is almost filled by the piece/s.
If not, any air gaps could be filled by a heat resistant, flavorless wicking material, such as cotton! It might help the piece get fully vaped?
The capsules might work good for this too being smaller, but something tells me the taste could be affected?
@WakeAndVape recently mentioned storing little pieces in the CU, and vaping them when they're gooey, so I wonder if they then vape them in the Mighty, and how?

That's what I thought of at first. Was there a reason he didn't use it? Is there some kind of a special technique you use? I feel like the thing would break.

When I tried to get my bottom screen out with a steel pick I bent it way out of shape and scratched my bowl in the ensuing panic. Someone outlined a method here lately where you push/form/dent the screen down into the circular channel below and it's supposed to fall right out. Makes total sense to me alright.
I went back looking for it to give the user some credit but could not find the comment.
 
blackstone,
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Honestly, you would only need to take the bottom screen out after a very long time of use. I wouldn't care if I needed to put in a new screen by that point. I just care about what makes it the easiest to take it out. I guess I'll look into sewing needles.
 

cloudsosmoke

Well-Known Member
i use long sharp round metal kebab skewer from pound shop
not the flat ones or the blunt ones
- you have to check theyre the sharp ones

its a bit like a sort of heavy-duty eyeless giant needle

you can pull wooden handle off and stick it on the point
so you dont accidentally poke holes in things

i use them for other things too ..theyre quite versatile

when im electric grinding and seiveing my weed
its a great funnel unblocker
 
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TheMadDabber

I ° The Magician
Honestly, you would only need to take the bottom screen out after a very long time of use. I wouldn't care if I needed to put in a new screen by that point. I just care about what makes it the easiest to take it out. I guess I'll look into sewing needles.

I think its been mentioned before, Once you get it out and put a clean screen back you can been one of the edges and leave it slightly raised, this will make it easier to put back next time of round.

Also invest in one of those tools that have and tip as @t-dub mentions, it makes life a whole lot easier, as the angle lets you slide the tool underneath the screen without scraping the chamber. I use one of these.

You can be innovative, I used the tip of a nail once, once only as later I realized I was scrapping the inside of the chamber, a needle sounds good, but Im too clumsy and I might end up sticking myself with it.
 

ChooChooCharlie

Well-Known Member
i use long sharp round metal kebab skewer from pound shop

Had no idea that the American "dollar store" has been adopted as the British "pound shop."
(Sorry @cloudsosmoke , I know you're from a different tribe and have no dog in this pound)

Readers wanting tools: search this thread with "dental" or search amazon with "dental tools."
The former will provide good reading and advice; the latter a decent set for $6
 

ktmstick

Well-Known Member
It seems to work good, I thought it was a bit airy at 180C. But if I start it 12 or 15 degrees C higher it seems to replicate my normal use.
All in, a great way to use them on the move!
Did you notice more sticky goo at the tops? I did but maybe its CU cleaning time again !

I agree the more non herb mass in the chamber the higher the initial temp needs to be. I think you could back it down after 2nd pull but I just set to 205 and go nuts.

I had a shit day yesterday, bearing on tractor prop shaft gave out when I was hauling livestock about. When I was underneath tractor my phone fell out pocket then I proceeded to run it over when driving off. I got in the house grabbed my mighty and a capsule with liquid pad in and took a bud and pulled 8-10 bits off and stuffed in capsule. Gave me about 12 decent pulls. I think I'm gonna experiment with not so finely ground stuff.
 
I think its been mentioned before, Once you get it out and put a clean screen back you can been one of the edges and leave it slightly raised, this will make it easier to put back next time of round.

Also invest in one of those tools that have and tip as @t-dub mentions, it makes life a whole lot easier, as the angle lets you slide the tool underneath the screen without scraping the chamber. I use one of these.

You can be innovative, I used the tip of a nail once, once only as later I realized I was scrapping the inside of the chamber, a needle sounds good, but Im too clumsy and I might end up sticking myself with it.

I think I will go with one of those. It's from the same site that sells the ceramic screens. Just to clarify, I use the screens exactly the same as the liquid pad correct? I'm assuming this is for improving flavor. I think people mentioned that with the screens, you also don't need the cooling unit screen anymore. Any reason why people remove that?
 
RangerDanger,

blackstone

Well-Known Member
Honestly, you would only need to take the bottom screen out after a very long time of use. I wouldn't care if I needed to put in a new screen by that point. I just care about what makes it the easiest to take it out. I guess I'll look into sewing needles.

Sorry I didn't get my point across in that post at all.
I wasn't lamenting about damage to my old screen, but trying to point out that by pulling from one edge, I managed to wedge the screen really badly in the bowl causing heavy scratches.
It left me thinking "that was surely not the correct removal method"!
Next time I think I'll use that method of forming the screen to the "donut" shape below it.

I agree the more non herb mass in the chamber the higher the initial temp needs to be. I think you could back it down after 2nd pull but I just set to 205 and go nuts.

I had a shit day yesterday, bearing on tractor prop shaft gave out when I was hauling livestock about. When I was underneath tractor my phone fell out pocket then I proceeded to run it over when driving off. I got in the house grabbed my mighty and a capsule with liquid pad in and took a bud and pulled 8-10 bits off and stuffed in capsule. Gave me about 12 decent pulls. I think I'm gonna experiment with not so finely ground stuff.

Sorry to hear of your phone, at least it will be peaceful now! I thought the Mighty got a slap. Mind that machinery!

These capsules will be great for stressful times or when you're in a rush, pre-loading, reloading while hot, and anything you put in them gets vaped even if it's loose flying around!
I've been playing with homemade domed screens in the capsule bottoms and it's looking very promising.
Small loads, held steady in transit, and very good taste! Even at 180 degrees lol
No long waiting for the steel mass to cool down either.
 
blackstone,

Mr. Me2

Well-Known Member
I think its been mentioned before, Once you get it out and put a clean screen back you can been one of the edges and leave it slightly raised, this will make it easier to put back next time of round.

Also invest in one of those tools that have and tip as @t-dub mentions, it makes life a whole lot easier, as the angle lets you slide the tool underneath the screen without scraping the chamber. I use one of these.

You can be innovative, I used the tip of a nail once, once only as later I realized I was scrapping the inside of the chamber, a needle sounds good, but Im too clumsy and I might end up sticking myself with it.
I wonder if the tweezers I got for the gh (see the gh resources thread) will work. I bet it will, though I really like the look of the dental tool.
 
Mr. Me2,
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