I quickly noticed an issue with the contact when using my new batteries in there being a gap between the wood and battery so it was not snug at all like with my old mflb. The batteries never slipped out with my old unit but there is too much play with the new one and they easily slide/fall out. Well the main problem really is when I got my PA and started using that. Its very hard to get a good consistent contact (light on in box) and once I do, it keeps losing its connection when I'm taking a draw and since I can't see the light while drawing I sometimes don't notice its not on.
First off, Howdy, good to meet you and welcome to the fun. Thanks also for posting the photo, you look very familiar to me, but I can't place it yet.....
You have a common ailment. One of my boxes had it bad. Part of the problem is the size of the batteries is not well controlled and the box needs to accept the largest possible one meaning the smaller ones are smaller. The PA has to be in that range as well. Just as big a problem is roundness. Often you can get it to work well if you rotate 'tight spots' to align.
Too tight is a bad problem as it can leave the box running when you don't want it to.
The adjustment is made all the harder by the fact that stainless steel generally makes a lousy spring for use like this (which is why you don't find stainless springs in flashlights were it's so obviously an advantage otherwise.
I can suggest 3 options, two if you don't want to send it back for 'tightening'. You can try shimming it a bit. For a while I used a small wedge shaped strip of tape on the PA to make it snug. Scotch tape worked but took a beating and needed replacement a lot so I put a bit of the aluminum tape used to tape up ducts (duct tape doesn't really work on ducts.....). This is thick metal foil with tough adhesive but kinda pricey to buy a roll to fix it with a tiny piece (I had it already).
Finally you can try to tighten it up yourself. It's easy, but you have to be a bit handy and take care. The factory recommended using a screwdriver tip on the bottom of the coil while opening the window and placing the top of the coil (the part sanded flat) on something solid (I used the jaw of the vice) before tapping the handle of the screwdriver a bit at a time. A few taps did it for my 'almost tight enough box'. When I got the latest one, it was worse still and I didn't like pounding on it all that much so I cut a piece of coat hanger wire and bent it into a 'U shape' maybe 3 inches long and just wide enough to slip over the coil part of the loop. I bent the ends of the arms a bit to match the loop a bit so it snapped into place and stayed on the outside of the coil because the ends of the arms were in the slot. Then I carefully crushed it down with vice grips in a series of progressively tighter latchings (testing between).
This last technique let me fine tune all my boxes as I wanted them. Much better than fighting it.
Good luck, please keep us posted?
Apologies for not being much help. I'm chained to my phone until I can get my laptop fixed. Typing reviews is enoiugh for my thumbs.
Bummer BDV, I know that one. Right now I'm using the new computer.....don't press me for details, it's not a happy story but the ending is OK. Damn machines, tool of the devil you know......
Anyway, take a break and let the B Team handle this one?
OF