The Magic-Flight Box
- Thread starter magicflight
- Start date
. I will aslo report back once I have taken it to my pint glass
fernand
Well-Known Member
Just had occasion to pull old king Tut's walnut flight box out. I can't help loving it as the most efficient, the most manual transmission type device. It's the MiniCooper (or the Volskwagen bug) of vaping. Crumbled some water hash right on the screen and it did the job.
In the spirit of old king Tut, no iPhone app here. I'm waiting for someone to retrofit it with a temp controller you can set from a command line app on a Linux or DOS PC over a 1200 baud serial link.
As to the smell, well, it's like an old tobacco pipe, it wouldn't have any character if it wasn't saturated with resins. There are tales of hippies in the Redwoods vaping their launch boxes long after the stash ran out. If you must carry it in public, some sort of triple bagging with an orange oil layer should be feasible ...
In the spirit of old king Tut, no iPhone app here. I'm waiting for someone to retrofit it with a temp controller you can set from a command line app on a Linux or DOS PC over a 1200 baud serial link.
As to the smell, well, it's like an old tobacco pipe, it wouldn't have any character if it wasn't saturated with resins. There are tales of hippies in the Redwoods vaping their launch boxes long after the stash ran out. If you must carry it in public, some sort of triple bagging with an orange oil layer should be feasible ...
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Vitolo
Vaporist
I bought 4 batteries for my wife's Canon Camera.
They came with a charger, and all was fine.
http://www.eastcoastphoto.com/nav/itempage.asp?itemid=105052&catid=&hid= was where I got them… they sold the 4 without a charger as well.
After 2 years, I was given a good deal on some new batteries for the Canon camera, so I got them.
I was going to experiment, with my MFLB, so I went to peel these guys and found that the skin peeled off very cleanly and easily (no resistance, no chemical assistance was needed.. they come off in one piece).
I tried them on my box, and they are wonderful!
I was always the guy in this thread that spoke out for MFLB batteries being the best, and I still think they are best choice.
These batteries I have now pack quite a punch and are long lasting.
My point is not to dissuade anyone from using Glyph batteries… but to let you know that if you have an old camera sitting around that has fallen out of favor or out of regular use, it's batteries might be a prize!
They came with a charger, and all was fine.
http://www.eastcoastphoto.com/nav/itempage.asp?itemid=105052&catid=&hid= was where I got them… they sold the 4 without a charger as well.
After 2 years, I was given a good deal on some new batteries for the Canon camera, so I got them.
I was going to experiment, with my MFLB, so I went to peel these guys and found that the skin peeled off very cleanly and easily (no resistance, no chemical assistance was needed.. they come off in one piece).
I tried them on my box, and they are wonderful!
I was always the guy in this thread that spoke out for MFLB batteries being the best, and I still think they are best choice.
These batteries I have now pack quite a punch and are long lasting.
My point is not to dissuade anyone from using Glyph batteries… but to let you know that if you have an old camera sitting around that has fallen out of favor or out of regular use, it's batteries might be a prize!
fernand
Well-Known Member
The question of course is WHAT KIND of batteries. NiMH and NiCad and LiPo and LiMn and so on. Most batteries aren't designed for heavy drain. If you pull a lot of current from them, they tend to heat up. Batteries have, in the last decade or so, become incredibly energy-dense. All that energy can be liberated in unexpected ways.
So, their new batteries specify NiMH, 1.25v and 2250 mAH? That's an older technology and should be safer than the newer LiPo 3.7 v powerhouses. But they don't specify the current drawn by the MFLB and the current capacity of their batteries.
Don't ever put 3.2 or 3.7 volt batteries in a MFLB. 1.2 to 1.5 v nominal voltage only. These are AA size and might be labeled 1.2, 1.25, 1.3 or 1.5 volts. They normally re-charge up to 1.2 v but replace 1.5 volt non-rechargeable Alkalines (which actually start out at 1.6 volts), hence the labeling.
If you have some 1.2 volt NiMh batteries, I'd try one by pulsing it cautiously while observing the temperature. If the battery doesn't get hot, it's likely to be OK. But move slowly and remember that such little innocent cylinders have been known to turn into flaming bottle rockets and cause injury.
So, their new batteries specify NiMH, 1.25v and 2250 mAH? That's an older technology and should be safer than the newer LiPo 3.7 v powerhouses. But they don't specify the current drawn by the MFLB and the current capacity of their batteries.
Don't ever put 3.2 or 3.7 volt batteries in a MFLB. 1.2 to 1.5 v nominal voltage only. These are AA size and might be labeled 1.2, 1.25, 1.3 or 1.5 volts. They normally re-charge up to 1.2 v but replace 1.5 volt non-rechargeable Alkalines (which actually start out at 1.6 volts), hence the labeling.
If you have some 1.2 volt NiMh batteries, I'd try one by pulsing it cautiously while observing the temperature. If the battery doesn't get hot, it's likely to be OK. But move slowly and remember that such little innocent cylinders have been known to turn into flaming bottle rockets and cause injury.
OF
Well-Known Member
Actually we've kinda beat batteries up WRT the MFLB. Very few are up to the 15 Amps or so the box demands (at about .75 Volts at the screen), the generally accepted champs are the special made factory cells, sometimes called 'glyphs' due to the engraved logo on the bottom. Some claim this never happens, but this one is made to drive the box......which it does like no other.
There are also a couple of recommended high performance commercial cells, one LSD (for longer storage), the other slightly better out of the gate but quickly self discharging (80% in 24 hours??). Both are famous for being hard to peel at times.
If our Vitolo really has found a suitable, easy to peel, cheaper alternative (and he don't fib much), some owners are sure to want to give it a go.
If you have an older box and haven't tried the new custom ones you've missed a bet. Seriously improved performance, especially at the start. Right up with the PA many say.
OF
Vitolo
Vaporist
Not so much cheaper, as bonus batteries.
Batteries unused... forgotten, that happen to fit the bill, and seem to hold a charge as long as new glyphs.
OF ... you da man.
Always got a brotha's back!
New_World
Cuck Fombustion
I will get my monday according to tracking. =)
BalzaSteel
Active Member
Hi All
Just wondering how well the concentrate trays from MFLB work, any info much appreciated
Thanx
Just wondering how well the concentrate trays from MFLB work, any info much appreciated
Thanx
Seasoned Senior
Well-Known Member
I combusted in my MFLB while using the PA. The screen is very discolored in one area, like black, but still intact. I purchased it on cyber whatever day, so it's fairly new. Do you all think it's still okay? It still works, but my ABV didn't get as dark. That might have been me holding back after burning a new toy. Thanks for your guidance.
howie105
Well-Known Member
The trays work but they have their own learning curve, limitations and requirements and to be honest the trays won't make a MFLB into a concentrate box. The two major concerns I had were the trays work best with lots of power so good batteries are a must and a PA is even better. My second observation is the trays are shallow so spills are a real possibility and clean up can be a pain when one would rather be using.
So for me trays are a good item within their and my limits as a part time concentrate user if however oils, waxes and such were a full time item for me I would look at a dedicated option.
I abuse the snot out of my box and to be honest I really expected the initial forays into oil and shatter land to be tough on the box but it survived and I learned to be a quicker and better box cleaner. So be brave and keep working on it but get lots of Q Tips and ISO.
So for me trays are a good item within their and my limits as a part time concentrate user if however oils, waxes and such were a full time item for me I would look at a dedicated option.
I abuse the snot out of my box and to be honest I really expected the initial forays into oil and shatter land to be tough on the box but it survived and I learned to be a quicker and better box cleaner. So be brave and keep working on it but get lots of Q Tips and ISO.
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KidFated.
Unknown Member
Engage a battery (or pa on 100%) with an empty trench and open lid to burn off any junk from the combustion. It works for me
Seasoned Senior
Well-Known Member
@KidFated. Thanks so much. I really try to keep my stuff looking nice. Now instead of a big, black spot, I have a clean screen with a tiny area of discoloration. Other prescription meds allow me to deal with that. I appreciate your advice, including getting another you know what. I'm thinking about it but have awful luck with butane lighters. 
OF
Well-Known Member
IMO it's fine, enjoy it.
Normally brand new boxes 'cool off' early on in life as the screen darkens on the surface. This cuts back on the conduction heating, slowing up things. All very normal as it 'breaks in'. IMO all you did it compress that into a session or two.
If it really decays 'out of range' for normal experienced boxes you can always get it replaced in the future, but IMO this is part of what makes your MFLB unique.
Best wishes. Keep it fine and dry, batteries charged and shake, shake, shake.
OF
caves
Living the vape life
So I combusted for what feels like the first time in a year or so last night. 
I was starting up the second session of the day with the UFO (it actually got here Thursday!) and had a half-done trench all ready to go. Plugged in the PA and got started on a typical hit in a way that normally doesn't even get close to combustion. What I failed to remember is that earlier in the day, after my first session with the UFO, I had been messing around with my PA and a multimeter thanks to all the talk about batteries.
Instead of the usual 45-50% I have the PA set to, I left it maxed out at 100%.
So, very soon after I started the first hit, the trench went up in smoke! 
I managed to get all the material off the screen and starve it of oxygen before any real damage was done, and after a quick burn-off and brushing the trench is none the worse for wear. Gonna have a stinky box for a while though.
Anyways, first impressions on the UFO from my limited time with it:
Certainly a nice piece of kit! Fits in perfectly with other MF products and looks excellent. All the acrylic stems - downstems included - are to the same specs as a regular draw stem (1/4 inch). I had a better time using two draw whips, a la the Orbiter, since with the regular long draw stem it's tough to get a good look at the vapor production inside the glass. Bubbles pretty well and is quiet too. Depending on the size of the glass you use it can be a real hard hitter!
A couple of nitpicks, though: the suggested clearing method from the little instructional card you get is to slightly lift up the entire UFO from the rim of the glass you're using. I found this method to let more vapor escape than I could draw in. I'm thinking a carb hole on the opposite side of the draw stem hole would work well for this purpose, and I'm going to try drilling one myself eventually. That could also possibly allow for a "sharing the milkshake" scenario with another draw stem or whip on the opposite side!
The seal itself isn't totally perfect, either, but that's doesn't seem to be that big of a deal.
I'm definitely going to try it out with other glasses and vessels, though!
I'm thinking an empty glass honey jar could work pretty well...
I was starting up the second session of the day with the UFO (it actually got here Thursday!) and had a half-done trench all ready to go. Plugged in the PA and got started on a typical hit in a way that normally doesn't even get close to combustion. What I failed to remember is that earlier in the day, after my first session with the UFO, I had been messing around with my PA and a multimeter thanks to all the talk about batteries.Instead of the usual 45-50% I have the PA set to, I left it maxed out at 100%.
So, very soon after I started the first hit, the trench went up in smoke! I managed to get all the material off the screen and starve it of oxygen before any real damage was done, and after a quick burn-off and brushing the trench is none the worse for wear. Gonna have a stinky box for a while though.
Anyways, first impressions on the UFO from my limited time with it:
Certainly a nice piece of kit! Fits in perfectly with other MF products and looks excellent. All the acrylic stems - downstems included - are to the same specs as a regular draw stem (1/4 inch). I had a better time using two draw whips, a la the Orbiter, since with the regular long draw stem it's tough to get a good look at the vapor production inside the glass. Bubbles pretty well and is quiet too. Depending on the size of the glass you use it can be a real hard hitter!
A couple of nitpicks, though: the suggested clearing method from the little instructional card you get is to slightly lift up the entire UFO from the rim of the glass you're using. I found this method to let more vapor escape than I could draw in. I'm thinking a carb hole on the opposite side of the draw stem hole would work well for this purpose, and I'm going to try drilling one myself eventually. That could also possibly allow for a "sharing the milkshake" scenario with another draw stem or whip on the opposite side!
The seal itself isn't totally perfect, either, but that's doesn't seem to be that big of a deal.
I'm definitely going to try it out with other glasses and vessels, though!
I'm thinking an empty glass honey jar could work pretty well...
axakal
Well-Known Member
this obviously strongly depends on your geographical situation. 
I'm looking at picking up a launch box and was wondering what retailer is offering the best prices on the launch box currently?
Thanks for any input
puddleglum
Well-Known Member
Just wanted to give a rave review of the MFLB+IncrediBowl m420 combo. I picked up this little gadget for less than $50 on massdrop. It is designed as a combustion pipe, basically a state-of-the-art "one hitter," but I haven't tried it for that purpose. Instead, I removed the combustion bowl and screen, and observed (as has been remarked by others) that the O ring happens to be the exact size to accommodate the stock MF acrylic stem. The m420 has a clear tubular chamber, so it's an excellent training tool for learning to sip or "milk" good vapor production. If you use a very gentle draw, then you can actually blow little vape rings inside the chamber. Then you pull the spring-loaded carb and WOOSH! the contents of the chamber are shotgunned into your lungs. You can easily see if the vapor is turning to smoke, indicating combustion, or if you're not getting any clouds in the chamber at all, you have a clear visual indicator something is wrong with your draw technique and/or batteries and/or trench being cashed. A fun little toy for MFLB owners.
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RUDE BOY
Space is the Place
It is cool puddleglum. I use one I picked up here in the classifieds a while back like that and on the end of a magic flight whip the same way with a few different vapes. Pretty much acts like a vapolution vapor barrel or a steam roller, smoothing out the vapor while giving some pretty big hits. Lots of fun and functional. Love mine with the trigger, sittin' back the lazy way.
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Im in the lower 48 usathis obviously strongly depends on your geographical situation.
Seasoned Senior
Well-Known Member
Puff It Up! has some nice combos. I don't know if they've restocked since selling out over Thanksgiving weekend.