Quetzalcoatl
DEADY GUERRERO/DIRT COBAIN/GEORGE KUSH
I still think it's the kief making it clump?
The Magic-Flight Box
- Thread starter magicflight
- Start date
kente777
Well-Known Member
Because I know how dry it was when I filled the trench. When I saw the clumping and realized I wasn't getting much vapor on the last few hits, I handled the herb with my fingers--wet.
I had one good session by myself. When a friend joined in, the wetness occurred. Also, the LB works perfectly apart from the Orbiter.
PS, I am not using Kief, only very dry herb.
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c76man
In search of the best terps and smoothest vapor
Hmmm. Now I understand your confusion as to what is going on. Are you pulling the ground glass from the Orbiter when you clear it? Just trying to think out loud about what could pull moisture back to the box.
kente777
Well-Known Member
Not messing with it at all. Should I?
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c76man
In search of the best terps and smoothest vapor
I always pull the gong on the whip that goes to the LB from the Orbiter when I clear mine. Just like I would when pulling a bowl from a bong. Might be worth a try?
kente777
Well-Known Member
Interesting...
sethhobrin
Well-Known Member
How do I clean my wooden stem without ruining it? Inquiring minds want to know.
PoisonousHydra
Well-Known Member
Can anyone please enlighten me as to whether a Launch Box with a nasty, blackened bowl is likely to be stopped by Canadian / American customs, if sent through postage in either your opinion, or your experience?
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Land crossing or airport? Risk is much lower if by land.
Your LB not only has a blackened screen, it has accumulated resin under the screen that is impossible to remove. In my opinion, you aren't likely to be challenged unless you act guilty and provoke a search. If they find it and recognize it for what it is, I think they'd confiscate it but not charge you, but that's just my guess. It's not a risk I'd take because even without a charge, you could be turned back at the border and once that happens, your ability to cross over is severely hampered or even non-existent.
OF
Well-Known Member
I agree with PAK. If they stumble on it and have no other issues it's likely to pass. If there's herb with it or you've given them reason to 'look for something', that's plenty. It's the very sort of thing that might put you on a list you'd like to stay off really.
I have friends who's lives are forever impacted from such innocent sins in the past. One is convinced it's cost him several jobs over the years. There are plenty of guys without such 'black marks' I guess, he has a point? Another was with a group caught at that border (going North) many years ago, he wasn't holding, but got on a list anyway and now enjoys 'the full treatment' every time he crosses. He treats it as a joke. I would not.
A brand new vape you can abandon later (one that doesn't have any residue so it's a simple paraphernalia beef) might be a better call?
Be a pity to blow a Holiday in customs somewhere.......
OF
Vitolo
Vaporist
OR....
keep the instructions with the unit... that say nothing about marijuana.
"I'm trying to quit smoking" is a decent comment to make!
also keep a cheap pouch of Bugler (tobacco) with the unit.
ALSO.... fill the trench with unused tobacco.. and just leave it full for travel.
You can easily dump the clean tobacco when you wish to use the unit, and then replace the clean tobacco when done.
keep the instructions with the unit... that say nothing about marijuana.
"I'm trying to quit smoking" is a decent comment to make!
also keep a cheap pouch of Bugler (tobacco) with the unit.
ALSO.... fill the trench with unused tobacco.. and just leave it full for travel.
You can easily dump the clean tobacco when you wish to use the unit, and then replace the clean tobacco when done.
horst
horsed
Would also suggest to avoid the risk, if you can't be stopped go with @Vitolo Tipp.
You could also fill it with ground peppermint and vape a few trenches of peppermint before to mask the smell.
Carrying the MFLB filled with peppermint and alongside peppermint could also help to avoid alarming thoughts.
You could also fill it with ground peppermint and vape a few trenches of peppermint before to mask the smell.
Carrying the MFLB filled with peppermint and alongside peppermint could also help to avoid alarming thoughts.
PoisonousHydra
Well-Known Member
Sorry, I guess I should have specified that I was referring to postal customs. I will edit the original post to reflect that. There are still many great replies here, so thank you all kindly.
OF
Well-Known Member
IMO that lowers the risk they will find it, but increases the risk if they do. They can't 'let it pass' or 'sweep it under the rug' once they go inside that package, reports will have to be made and that makes you (and whoever it's addressed to) SOL. While it might makes some sense you're traveling with your 'quit smoking tools' that won't cover it shipped I think. Best go with a new one? Once that 'what is this?' question is asked by Customs, not many good answers can follow in that case......
Stay safe? Enjoy your visit.
OF
PoisonousHydra
Well-Known Member
I was planning on unloading it, not traveling with it, but you folks have convinced me to keep it within the country. What if I wanted to return it? Does it being sent to the manufacturer make it any less likely to be stopped? I am sure that Magic Flight would warranty it for the blackness (opinions on that would also be welcome). It may be a little more work but get me a little more money in the end. Does anyone think that warranty before sale makes more (or less) sense?
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Dynalowrider
Well-Known Member
Not trying to change the subject, but here is a question for you guys.
Ok, I ordered a MFLB power adaptor. It came with a switching adaptor, (wall-wart), with an output of 12vdc 1250mA. In use, (with rheostat on max), the light in the MFLB blinks. Which means it is pulsing. If turned down it stops pulsing. When using the auto adaptor, (using a fully charged jump-start battery as a power source), it doesn't pulse.
Contacted MFLB customer support, they quickly sent me a new "wall-wart", (output 12vdc 2000mA). Had the same outcome. Both wall-warts actual voltage @ the battery simulator was 12.2vdc. The auto adaptor output was 12.8vdc. The incoming AC to the wall-warts was 122.3vac.
The actual output voltage on both w-ws and the auto adaptor is 1.9vdc max rheostat. and 1.1vdc on min rheostat. I know it's pulsing because it doesn't heat up well with the w-ws but does on auto adaptor.
I know the lower temps have better flavor, but the higher temps put me to sleep @ bedtime.
I have learned so much from everyone on FC, I thought I would pick your brain. Dynalowrider
Ok, I ordered a MFLB power adaptor. It came with a switching adaptor, (wall-wart), with an output of 12vdc 1250mA. In use, (with rheostat on max), the light in the MFLB blinks. Which means it is pulsing. If turned down it stops pulsing. When using the auto adaptor, (using a fully charged jump-start battery as a power source), it doesn't pulse.
Contacted MFLB customer support, they quickly sent me a new "wall-wart", (output 12vdc 2000mA). Had the same outcome. Both wall-warts actual voltage @ the battery simulator was 12.2vdc. The auto adaptor output was 12.8vdc. The incoming AC to the wall-warts was 122.3vac.
The actual output voltage on both w-ws and the auto adaptor is 1.9vdc max rheostat. and 1.1vdc on min rheostat. I know it's pulsing because it doesn't heat up well with the w-ws but does on auto adaptor.
I know the lower temps have better flavor, but the higher temps put me to sleep @ bedtime.
I have learned so much from everyone on FC, I thought I would pick your brain. Dynalowrider
OF
Well-Known Member
IMO the PA needs to go back. You're exceeding the current (not voltage) ratings on the WW. The car cord has much larger current potential. The PA should not be using that much current. It's going to lead to heat buildup and failure (the power drawn has to go somewhere, if not into the load......).
BTW, it's not really rheostat. Such a gadget would be five times hotter than the box. A minor, but important detail, at least to some of us. Probably the best way to think of the PA is as a specialized Variable Voltage supply with rather impressive performance. You won't find a 'COTS' (Commercial, Off The Shelf) supply to replace it, at least I didn't and I looked pretty carefully.
Anyway, what you're seeing is the WWs crashing because the PA is demanding too much power, a bigger WW is not the answer. Nor is the car cord. Nor do I think 'turning it down enough so it doesn't trip out' is a good work around. If it were mine, it'd be on the way back. The house that burns down could be yours?
Good luck with it. Good to meet you, welcome to the fun, sorry it has to be under a cloud.....
OF
BTW, it's not really rheostat. Such a gadget would be five times hotter than the box. A minor, but important detail, at least to some of us. Probably the best way to think of the PA is as a specialized Variable Voltage supply with rather impressive performance. You won't find a 'COTS' (Commercial, Off The Shelf) supply to replace it, at least I didn't and I looked pretty carefully.
Anyway, what you're seeing is the WWs crashing because the PA is demanding too much power, a bigger WW is not the answer. Nor is the car cord. Nor do I think 'turning it down enough so it doesn't trip out' is a good work around. If it were mine, it'd be on the way back. The house that burns down could be yours?
Good luck with it. Good to meet you, welcome to the fun, sorry it has to be under a cloud.....
OF
Dynalowrider
Well-Known Member
I called the wheel on the wooden pa a rheostat for lack of a better word. There is no heat build up anywhere in the circuit, so no real danger.
The amperage I listed on the wall-warts is the nameplate rating.
I e-mailed MFLB about this, so we'll see what happens.
Dynalowrider
The amperage I listed on the wall-warts is the nameplate rating.
I e-mailed MFLB about this, so we'll see what happens.
Dynalowrider
OF
Well-Known Member
The better word for that part is potentiometer for those taking notes. Again, an unimportant detail. It sets the output level the supply will try to reach. A control signal, not a power one. What is important it more power than normal is being drawn (goes in), if the normal power is coming out extra is left over. If it goes in and doesn't come out it's where it shouldn't be. Your inability to find it (did you open it up and check especially the inductor and flyback diode?) doesn't change that. It's not running to specifications and is subject to further degradation if you let it.
The danger is IMO real. For the unit and the house it's in. Your call, but I don't think ignoring or dismissing it changes the fact that the WW seems OK (by replacement) and the system is not performing to spec.
Good luck.
OF
OF
Well-Known Member
Bummer. Yes, such mishap has been covered in the past. You might take a lash, at least one guy managed to get it back in (or so he claimed) but several others pulled theirs out in a misguided clean freak adventure to their regret.
If you're gentle enough you can soldier on, the first ones didn't have rings.......
Good luck.
OF
pnutz
Puff master
Thanks OF. Yeah I've tried to gently guide it back into place but can't seem to get it. I feel like I might damage the screen if I go at it any harder. It still seems to work fine in the meantime. Not really sure what it even does. Guess I'll have to wait for them to get back to me.
OF
Well-Known Member
One thing you might try is to cut the ring. Slice through one side to make a curved string out of it then press the ring in from one end to the other. Keep track of 'the outside side' of it. If it comes up a bit short, no big deal, if it goes long, trim it off.
Hopefully soon you'll be ripping the screen out......
OF