OF

Well-Known Member
It's long been observed that new boxes seem hotter and then seem to cool down as they age. These 900 pages contain dozens of such posts I think.

I've observed it myself. I have one of the original custom walnut boxes that gets little use. My 'user' (current version, latching lid maple) was 'hotter' when I first got it, but now no longer is. Here I have the benefit of a reference to base observations on.

Exactly why this is I'm not sure, but it's widely reported. Two thoughts I've had are that some of the welds degrade (close contact but not actually welded connections) raising the resistance and lowering the power or perhaps it's something to do with surface reactions on the SS mesh better insulating it from conduction so radiation can increase losses down into the wood? At one point I thought it might be increased resistance from the battery contacts, but initial measurements seem to dispel that idea.

Anyway, the effect is (fairly) well known, not understood, and can be expected to fade I think?

OF
 

Buildozer

Baked & Fried
It's long been observed that new boxes seem hotter and then seem to cool down as they age. These 900 pages contain dozens of such posts I think.

I've observed it myself. I have one of the original custom walnut boxes that gets little use. My 'user' (current version, latching lid maple) was 'hotter' when I first got it, but now no longer is. Here I have the benefit of a reference to base observations on.

Exactly why this is I'm not sure, but it's widely reported. Two thoughts I've had are that some of the welds degrade (close contact but not actually welded connections) raising the resistance and lowering the power or perhaps it's something to do with surface reactions on the SS mesh better insulating it from conduction so radiation can increase losses down into the wood? At one point I thought it might be increased resistance from the battery contacts, but initial measurements seem to dispel that idea.

Anyway, the effect is (fairly) well known, not understood, and can be expected to fade I think?

OF
one thing i noticed was that the old box (w/o the lid catch) has a larger LED than my newer box did.. i always figured it just took a little more power away from the screen than the new one?? what do you think about that? i did notice that over time they do cool down some, though.. but even brand new out of the box, side by side, the older model was noticeably cooler.
 

llamaman001

Well-Known Member
Holy shit. So I ordered those new glyph batts and while Im waiting for them to arrive tomorrow I thought what the hell, Ill try the box out again with the old batts. At first I got absolutely nothing with a medium grind. Took it out, ground it down to a very fine grind and then threw it back in the box. INSTANTLY I was getting vapor. Even though I was testing it out with mexi brick just to get the feel again Im blasted off of one trench. Totally forgot how much this little box rules!!! Remember to use a fine grind!
 

RUDE BOY

Space is the Place
one thing i noticed was that the old box (w/o the lid catch) has a larger LED than my newer box did.. i always figured it just took a little more power away from the screen than the new one?? what do you think about that? i did notice that over time they do cool down some, though.. but even brand new out of the box, side by side, the older model was noticeably cooler.
Its not an LED but an incandescent bulb that's underpowered. Still a different batch of Bulbs could draw more or less power.:shrug:
 

OF

Well-Known Member
one thing i noticed was that the old box (w/o the lid catch) has a larger LED than my newer box did.. i always figured it just took a little more power away from the screen than the new one?? what do you think about that? i did notice that over time they do cool down some, though.. but even brand new out of the box, side by side, the older model was noticeably cooler.

First off, it's not an LED, it's a very small conventional light bulb. One of 3 different ones I've owned in different LBs. The one in my custom walnut one is almost 3 times the size of the current one. LEDs need a bit over two Volts to run, we have something under one Volt (typically .75 or so) on the rails. LEDs won't work without electronics to support them in this case.

The power taken for the bulb is trivial really. I estimate it about 40mA (based on a similar type lamp I compared one to) which would be something like .25% of the total? Doubling it would be impossible to detect by performance IMO.

Lots of stuff is possible, I'm just saying I have an example of an older box that was 'colder' than the newer one I once ran it against, but that's no longer the case. It is now hotter than the newer one, IMO because there's less use on it. It did not get hotter being safely stashed away, the newer one got colder with use?

Every new one I bought was always hotter than the one in service, except the first of course. This is, I think, 5 times out of 5. I don't think every run has been hotter than the one before.

I know of no change in design or materials that would explain a jump in power, do you?

Its not an LED but an incandescent bulb that's underpowered. Still a different batch of Bulbs could draw more or less power.:shrug:

No doubt, but even a several fold change is not significant in terms of robbing heat.

It's also true you car gets better mileage with the widows rolled up......

OF
 

Willeh

Well-Known Member
I can agree to what OF is saying that there is a definite break in period and they start out hotter. I got a new box around 3 weeks ago and it ran way too hot, insanely hotter than my old 3 year old one. You couldn't have the battery in for more than 2 seconds without combustion. It resulted in combusting almost every bowl, with lots of quick dumps and burn ins. Eventually the batteries and box lost some of their edge and now it hits like a champ, but I still end up combusting a lot because it has a lot of power to tame. I'm not sure that the new boxes are any hotter than the old ones, but I still believe there can be 'calibration differences' (what does calibration mean in the case of welding a screen to rods? I don't know) causing some units to heat a little more or less than others. I think that coming from the old generation of batteries/powerex batteries could play a difference too. However, my new box does have a tighter air channel or (narrower draw stem?) and more restriction making a slow draw easier and more natural, which also raises the temperature in the box.
 

Buildozer

Baked & Fried
Interesting.. Thanks for the info @RUDE BOY and @OF.. i always figured it was just an LED.

No, I wouldn't know of any change in materials over time.. the light was the only difference i ever noticed, and I just figured that it had something to do w/ it.. never thought to ask about it though.

It seems like there would be some reason that my newer model was more hot than my older model right from the start?? I always felt that the old model had a slightly larger trench too.. I was never sure about that though haha.. maybe? Also, I happened to get both of my boxes w/in the same week IIRC.. I noticed a little difference right away.. No big deal though.. I never really cared.. I do notice what you are saying about them cooling some over time though.
 
Buildozer,
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poonman

Well-Known Member
I'm sure this is a common topic, but I have just purchased the PA after considering it for a couple weeks and am wondering what settings you guys and gals use personally. Is there a way to gauge the general heat of the trench based on the dial setting assuming the standard inhalation method? I am interested in trying different vaporization temperatures and seeing the differences in effect.

Did you buy the new version PA.2 ?
The newer ones have marks on the dials , iirc .

I would suggest NEVER start on MAX , unless with concentrates . jmo
Maybe in the middle of the dial ( old or new ) , then play with it until you find your
Sweet Spot , then white mark it .

But I've also found there may be several sweet spots you could like . ie different strains .

Either way , you are going to see the difference the PA offers .
Enjoy .
 

S1N3

Tarzan @ KloudSociety
how much?

Check the contest thread, Vapor Warehouse is giving the mini hydrator away this month.

I was lent the PA v1.0, its very clunky and I wouldnt recommend using it.

I recently won a nano grinder and am very impressed with the consistency it grinds the herbs. I've seen no speckling or charring now versus my traditional 4 piece grinder.
 
S1N3,

S1N3

Tarzan @ KloudSociety
:hmm: Not sure if I misunderstand or not.. Were you maybe talking about Not using it w/ the hydrator or something:shrug:
Because I would recommend using a PA... Period. No matter what version it is. I don't see why not.

Im sure the PA works well for some people, maybe I need to set the wires up better. I just found the whole experience cluttered and taking up too much space. IE the black wire which comes off the Temp Control was very bulky. So here I am am shaking the box with the whip attached and the battery connected to a bulky black wire... :myday:

My wife looks at me and says... "That's ridiculous what you are doing."

Where using the battery and water whip was just a less cumbersome and complicated experience.


Edit: I like the MFLB as a portable vape given its high efficiency. But with the PA v 1.0 and water Pipe whip I personally wouldn't use this as a desktop supplement. I've heard better things about v2.0 so perhaps my faults with v1.0 were remedied. Still @ $80 + S/H, I would sooner recommend saving that money toward a standalone (+$30 for the Whip).
 
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Buildozer

Baked & Fried
I see... I wasn't sure if you were not recommending it for use w/ glass, or just not recommending it period.. The option to have instant, consistent, and adjustable power is very nice, and worth it IMO.. But I agree, that the Water Pipe+WPW+MFLB+PA combo is really awkward for me too.. I very rarely ever do a setup like that.. Because of all the trench flipping going on.. But it's a lot better w/ the concentrate tray IMO... I pretty much only use the MFLB dry w/ the PA... Don't give up on the PA.. You can get used to it.. But I get what you mean about that setup w/ the glass :uhoh:
 

cawshook

Solod out.
I see... I wasn't sure if you were not recommending it for use w/ glass, or just not recommending it period.. The option to have instant, consistent, and adjustable power is very nice, and worth it IMO.. But I agree, that the Water Pipe+WPW+MFLB+PA combo is really awkward for me too.. I very rarely ever do a setup like that.. Because of all the trench flipping going on.. But it's a lot better w/ the concentrate tray IMO... I pretty much only use the MFLB dry w/ the PA... Don't give up on the PA.. You can get used to it.. But I get what you mean about that setup w/ the glass :uhoh:
I agree. I hated using that setup. Cotton in the stem worked just as well and is much more convenient, but today I bought a baby bubbler. This thing is so small.
16bbrjm.jpg



2z4fmkj.jpg


Unfortunately i cant try it yet, since my whip is too big for the hole. Giggidy.
 
cawshook,
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Buildozer

Baked & Fried
I agree. I hated using that setup. Cotton in the stem worked just as well and is much more convenient, but today I bought a baby bubbler. This thing is so small.
16bbrjm.jpg



2z4fmkj.jpg


Unfortunately i cant try it yet, since my whip is too big for the hole. Giggidy.
I bet you can find some way to improvise:science:.. Ya that is super tiny.. I had a little bubbler a lot like that, a long time ago, for combusting.. I used to love it for going places.. It had such a tiny down stem.. It would give some big smooth hits, but it clogged up a lot haha.. I ended up breaking it trying to clean it :doh:.
 

cawshook

Solod out.
I bet you can find some way to improvise:science:.. Ya that is super tiny.. I had a little bubbler a lot like that, a long time ago, for combusting.. I used to love it for going places.. It had such a tiny down stem.. It would give some big smooth hits, but it clogged up a lot haha.. I ended up breaking it trying to clean it :doh:.
I could improvise, but i need something that can hold tightly in place, because it dont want it to slip and fall. Its definitely fragile. The girl at the store almost dropped it twice trying to wrap it up for me.
I will try to combust with it sometime. Its so convenient and tempting if im in a rush and on the move.
 
cawshook,

cawshook

Solod out.
So a while back i mentioned that I was using oil in my concentrate trey for the MFLB and i put too much and almost ruined my launchbox. Because of that, I bought one of these today: http://www.710penvape.com/collections/frontpage/products/710mini-kit

Solid investment. (edit: scratch that, GREAT investment. I barely put anything, maybe 0.001 gram, in the cartridge, and ive hit will over 12 medium puffs.) Very good build quality. I really recommend it.
 
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cawshook,

HSIHP

Well-Known Member
I agree. I hated using that setup. Cotton in the stem worked just as well and is much more convenient, but today I bought a baby bubbler. This thing is so small.
16bbrjm.jpg



2z4fmkj.jpg


Unfortunately i cant try it yet, since my whip is too big for the hole. Giggidy.

This is what you want.

http://www.pipesdaddy.com/product-p/vp-0022.htm

The adapter fits the MF whips perfectly and this this rocks with the MF. If you are looking for a water path, don't even think, just buy!
 
HSIHP,

OF

Well-Known Member
Any thoughts on the Puff-it vaporizer? How does it compare to the MFLB?

IMO, Puffit is an OK vape, kind of fun really, but it's no Launch Box.

They are two entirely different sorts of vapes. My advice is go with MFLB unless you've got a solid reason to favor Puffit.

OF
 
OF,
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pakalolo

Toolbag v1.1 (candidate)
Staff member
Any thoughts on the Puff-it vaporizer? How does it compare to the MFLB?

I already moved your first post asking about the Puffit into the Puffit thread. Further discussion about the Puffit belongs there.

Hint: if your post disappears then a moderator has either deleted it or moved it. It's a good idea to find out what happened rather than simply reposting it, even if you were so wrecked you think your memory is playing tricks on you.
 
pakalolo,
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Pcpvapors

Well-Known Member
I have a question regarding the power adapter, I'm assuming it just has a numeric numbering for power settings, is there any paperwork that shows the corresponding temperature?
 
Pcpvapors,
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