Dynalowrider
Well-Known Member
The PA works great for me. It comes with a car adaptor, that will power your battery charger also. I have a Maha c9000 that refreshes and charges four batteries at a time at.
If you keep the PA, say at 30, and keep the button held any way of combusting?
Got you thanks!There are no numbers on mine, I've no idea what you mean by "at 30". Low enough, you can't make useful vapor, combustion is probably not possible. High enough if your technique is poor you can get in trouble fast. Real fast.
The PA is power control, not temperature control. If you want your vape to do the thinking for you (monitor the temperature and prevent combustion) you need a different vape. One with a temperature sensor and a processor to control the heater.
You still need to control the action, the PA is just a power source (battery) with a fixed level of power delivery that doesn't change. It lets you go to your personal 'ideal condition' WRT to heat and stay there. You have to control the draw speed still and shake between hits. Some guys even shake as they hit it looking for the last bit of vapor.
OF
Make peace with either the PA or the UFO by itself then add the next Xmas toy. The both have different cues and needs to be addressed so its simpler to do them one at a time. Yes I am that simple.
I just recently got my mflb and have been loving it! I wanted to upgrade to either a ufo or bottle rocket, they seem similiar, what do you all think?
Is the power adapter really worth the price? every time i consider buying one, i just buy another vape or glass piece instead because it's such an expensive add on and it keeps you tethered to a wall to boot so i always take a pass on it, however the main reason that the mflb fell out of daily use for me was the batteries. it's not that they dont last long between charges, it's that they dont last long overall (a few months) and didnt feel like constantly replacing them.
So what level do you use your PA at and how long do you hold the button to get good vapor and avoid combustion?Yep. As with all forms of experimentation and/or education (which have a lot of overlap, actually) it is always best to change only one variable or introduce one new element at a time. This way, as you observe the differences, you know exactly which change caused them
The result is the same either way - water filtration. It really depends on your preferred mode of use, which might be dependent on your venue. As someone else said, it might be as simple as "do you want to use a glass or a bottle?"
I bought the Bottle Rocket. I may (or not) pick up a UFO also. I liked that the Bottle Rocket fits most disposable water/beverage bottles, so if I want to take it on an outing, I need only bring the BR pieces (in their convenient carrying sack) - a compatible bottle can be had most anywhere. If you're leaving civilization behind (hiking? camping?), you can just as easily bring a sealed bottle to use, which you can then re-seal when you are done - no need to find a container, or water, or a place to dispose of it later. Grab a small bottle of cold water from the cooler and you have a nice chilled bubbler.
OTOH, if you use the UFO, it's simple to fill a cup with ice and water for the "coolest" experience.
Bottom line I'd say for someone more on-the-go, the BR might tick more boxes than the UFO - while the UFO might offer more options and convenience for someone who wants something transportable and stealthy which can be taken anywhere, but is best used sitting down at a proper table. JMHO, of course, and YMMV.
Oh, and speaking of water tools, if you don't mind spending a bit more for a nice stay-at-home piece, there's always the Orbiter!
The PA is absolutely worth it. While it may not seem like a big deal if you've never used it, once you have one, you'll wonder why you waited so long. Granted, it is often more convenient to use a battery, especially when you're sharing, But the PA eliminates most of the battery issues - predictability, repeatability, longevity, etc. It's especially nice if you're using a water tool (and therefore somewhat tied down by hoses anyhow, so what's one more tether?) and want the extra power to make bigger clouds.
With batteries, if I don't get a good hit, I'm never sure if it's because the battery isn't making good contact (do I need to wiggle it? press harder? press at an angle for better "ground" connection?), the Box needs another shake, or the load is spent. Using the Power Adaptor means a few less variables - predictable, repeatable power level and secure, reliable connection - as well as adding a variable - adjustable power level.
Air Intake - To add to the comments about the air intake - my box is of the new(er, if not est) style, with the shallow, curved, almost invisible intake channel. Before I learned how gently to draw, I found that I could create enough turbulence to actually move the load in the trench, exposing bare screen in the closest third of the trench to my mouth.The result being that I'd get little, if any vapor, as the air then took the path of least resistance - through the bare screen!
So what level do you use your PA at and how long do you hold the button to get good vapor and avoid combustion?
I use the PA at 50 to 70 percent to get good hits almost instantly .
Depends on draw rate. Feel by tempHow long do you typically hold the button for each draw at say 50 percent on the PA? Sorry for all the questions on that specifically, I just don't want to combust.
I typically pull faster with a vape where combustion can happen, if that can help a more specific recommendation on button time.
I got the hang of the Vapman with the torch pretty well, but I must admit I love the Station because I am then not worried about the combustion issue and if the vapor is too thin or thick I just adjust the dial. I use my torch for cleaning mainly but I do feel pretty confident with overall vaping when I need a quick bowl. I have finishing grinder coming and I plan to use the PA exclusively pretty much. I will shake a lot. I just want to keep It nice and clean. I really like wood vapes and accessories so I think I will like the MFLB, just hated that one bad combust in my Vapman and want to avoid it again.KF called it right, too many variables (cure, grind, load size, etc) to give you the sort of answer you seem to be looking for. You need to control the process, not expect 'plug and play'.
Most new guys draw too much I think. There's very little heat in MFLB wasting even a little impacts production a lot.
Here's a tip that might help some. It was in Linda's original MFLB review (by mistake IMO), which I can't find of course, not in the current one:
Using a fresh load let it heat with no draw until you 'fog up' the inside of the lid with water vapor and terpenes. Then gently sip them out. That's the taste (heat wise) and flow rate you're looking for to start with. After the first hit you loose that visual clue it's making vapor, change the load (saving it for vaping later of course) to get the indicator back.
As KF advises "feel the temperature", don't watch your watch...... You control the action, this is not a spectator sport. It has a lot in common with VM, but a lot of differences too. But the same 'you call the shot' sort of thing.
Keep it 'well cured, ground fine, use freshly charged batteries (or the PA), and shake, shake, shake between hits'.
OF
I got the hang of the Vapman with the torch pretty well, but I must admit I love the Station because I am then not worried about the combustion issue and if the vapor is too thin or thick I just adjust the dial.
I will shake a lot. I just want to keep It nice and clean.
Thanks OF, it sounds like it will be a fun challenge. I felt good mastering the Vapman, and want to get HOD down right. I doubt the MFLB will make as good of vapor, but it is so different than other vaporizers I want to see how it works.Yes, I picked that up which is why I mentioned it. The dial here is different. It's more like the flame adjustment on the lighter with VM. But the idea that you must fine tune your technique to control the vaping is basically the same. This is not like say a Solo is, you don't set it and ignore the details.
You have to shake, this is a conduction vape with very little power. Only the herb actually touching the screen is in play, a small percentage, and it can be quickly exhausted meaning the next hit starts from a very different point.
If you want to keep it clean, keep our herb very dry going in. Very. Condensed water vapor (easy to do with the wood) is a magnet for fouling, once started it's hard to control the buildup under the screen where you can't reach. Also be very careful to keep the wood dry, never risk ISO getting on it.
It's easy enough to 'get on the good side of MFLB' but you have to be the one to change.
Good luck.
OF
I guess this post is OK since this thread has not been active since Monday. First thanks to everyone who helped me prepare in the days before I got my box.