OF

Well-Known Member
If you keep the PA, say at 30, and keep the button held any way of combusting?

There are no numbers on mine, I've no idea what you mean by "at 30". Low enough, you can't make useful vapor, combustion is probably not possible. High enough if your technique is poor you can get in trouble fast. Real fast.

The PA is power control, not temperature control. If you want your vape to do the thinking for you (monitor the temperature and prevent combustion) you need a different vape. One with a temperature sensor and a processor to control the heater.

You still need to control the action, the PA is just a power source (battery) with a fixed level of power delivery that doesn't change. It lets you go to your personal 'ideal condition' WRT to heat and stay there. You have to control the draw speed still and shake between hits. Some guys even shake as they hit it looking for the last bit of vapor.

OF
 

mikeben

Well-Known Member
There are no numbers on mine, I've no idea what you mean by "at 30". Low enough, you can't make useful vapor, combustion is probably not possible. High enough if your technique is poor you can get in trouble fast. Real fast.

The PA is power control, not temperature control. If you want your vape to do the thinking for you (monitor the temperature and prevent combustion) you need a different vape. One with a temperature sensor and a processor to control the heater.

You still need to control the action, the PA is just a power source (battery) with a fixed level of power delivery that doesn't change. It lets you go to your personal 'ideal condition' WRT to heat and stay there. You have to control the draw speed still and shake between hits. Some guys even shake as they hit it looking for the last bit of vapor.

OF
Got you thanks!
 

His_Highness

In the land of the blind, the one-eyed man is king
I've been using the new PA as if it were a battery and I've started to see how much better things are without battery dependence. I still see the batteries and MFLB as a great outside world stealth vape combo so the batteries still have a place in my heart (or is that lungs).

The new UFO isn't really impressing me though. Before the UFO arrived I would take 4, almost invisible vapor hits to get buzzed so the MFLB was never a cloud producer for me. The UFO has not changed that. It might have been my first attempts to use the PA and UFO together that resulted in two combustion events that is causing me not to push it.

Anyone getting serious vapor visuals from the UFO?
 

MrNaturalAZ

Tree hugging dirt worshipper
Make peace with either the PA or the UFO by itself then add the next Xmas toy. The both have different cues and needs to be addressed so its simpler to do them one at a time. Yes I am that simple.

Yep. As with all forms of experimentation and/or education (which have a lot of overlap, actually) it is always best to change only one variable or introduce one new element at a time. This way, as you observe the differences, you know exactly which change caused them

I just recently got my mflb and have been loving it! I wanted to upgrade to either a ufo or bottle rocket, they seem similiar, what do you all think?

The result is the same either way - water filtration. It really depends on your preferred mode of use, which might be dependent on your venue. As someone else said, it might be as simple as "do you want to use a glass or a bottle?"

I bought the Bottle Rocket. I may (or not) pick up a UFO also. I liked that the Bottle Rocket fits most disposable water/beverage bottles, so if I want to take it on an outing, I need only bring the BR pieces (in their convenient carrying sack) - a compatible bottle can be had most anywhere. If you're leaving civilization behind (hiking? camping?), you can just as easily bring a sealed bottle to use, which you can then re-seal when you are done - no need to find a container, or water, or a place to dispose of it later. Grab a small bottle of cold water from the cooler and you have a nice chilled bubbler.

OTOH, if you use the UFO, it's simple to fill a cup with ice and water for the "coolest" experience.

Bottom line I'd say for someone more on-the-go, the BR might tick more boxes than the UFO - while the UFO might offer more options and convenience for someone who wants something transportable and stealthy which can be taken anywhere, but is best used sitting down at a proper table. JMHO, of course, and YMMV.

Oh, and speaking of water tools, if you don't mind spending a bit more for a nice stay-at-home piece, there's always the Orbiter!

Is the power adapter really worth the price? every time i consider buying one, i just buy another vape or glass piece instead because it's such an expensive add on and it keeps you tethered to a wall to boot so i always take a pass on it, however the main reason that the mflb fell out of daily use for me was the batteries. it's not that they dont last long between charges, it's that they dont last long overall (a few months) and didnt feel like constantly replacing them.

The PA is absolutely worth it. While it may not seem like a big deal if you've never used it, once you have one, you'll wonder why you waited so long. Granted, it is often more convenient to use a battery, especially when you're sharing, But the PA eliminates most of the battery issues - predictability, repeatability, longevity, etc. It's especially nice if you're using a water tool (and therefore somewhat tied down by hoses anyhow, so what's one more tether?) and want the extra power to make bigger clouds.

With batteries, if I don't get a good hit, I'm never sure if it's because the battery isn't making good contact (do I need to wiggle it? press harder? press at an angle for better "ground" connection?), the Box needs another shake, or the load is spent. Using the Power Adaptor means a few less variables - predictable, repeatable power level and secure, reliable connection - as well as adding a variable - adjustable power level.

Air Intake - To add to the comments about the air intake - my box is of the new(er, if not est) style, with the shallow, curved, almost invisible intake channel. Before I learned how gently to draw, I found that I could create enough turbulence to actually move the load in the trench, exposing bare screen in the closest third of the trench to my mouth.The result being that I'd get little, if any vapor, as the air then took the path of least resistance - through the bare screen!
 

KidFated.

Unknown Member
Wow!! Magic Flight is the best company imo.. They are unbelievable..

I am in the process of warranting a PA1.0 that has gotten really spotty, heating maybe half power of a glyph, so I can get tasty hits but not much effect.

They are phasing out the pa2.0, so they have offered me a new PA once they release it, OR a send in the pa and get store credit for the value.

I can't wait to check out the new PA design!

Magic Flight seriously cares about us.. More companies should follow their lead.
 

mikeben

Well-Known Member
Yep. As with all forms of experimentation and/or education (which have a lot of overlap, actually) it is always best to change only one variable or introduce one new element at a time. This way, as you observe the differences, you know exactly which change caused them



The result is the same either way - water filtration. It really depends on your preferred mode of use, which might be dependent on your venue. As someone else said, it might be as simple as "do you want to use a glass or a bottle?"

I bought the Bottle Rocket. I may (or not) pick up a UFO also. I liked that the Bottle Rocket fits most disposable water/beverage bottles, so if I want to take it on an outing, I need only bring the BR pieces (in their convenient carrying sack) - a compatible bottle can be had most anywhere. If you're leaving civilization behind (hiking? camping?), you can just as easily bring a sealed bottle to use, which you can then re-seal when you are done - no need to find a container, or water, or a place to dispose of it later. Grab a small bottle of cold water from the cooler and you have a nice chilled bubbler.

OTOH, if you use the UFO, it's simple to fill a cup with ice and water for the "coolest" experience.

Bottom line I'd say for someone more on-the-go, the BR might tick more boxes than the UFO - while the UFO might offer more options and convenience for someone who wants something transportable and stealthy which can be taken anywhere, but is best used sitting down at a proper table. JMHO, of course, and YMMV.

Oh, and speaking of water tools, if you don't mind spending a bit more for a nice stay-at-home piece, there's always the Orbiter!



The PA is absolutely worth it. While it may not seem like a big deal if you've never used it, once you have one, you'll wonder why you waited so long. Granted, it is often more convenient to use a battery, especially when you're sharing, But the PA eliminates most of the battery issues - predictability, repeatability, longevity, etc. It's especially nice if you're using a water tool (and therefore somewhat tied down by hoses anyhow, so what's one more tether?) and want the extra power to make bigger clouds.

With batteries, if I don't get a good hit, I'm never sure if it's because the battery isn't making good contact (do I need to wiggle it? press harder? press at an angle for better "ground" connection?), the Box needs another shake, or the load is spent. Using the Power Adaptor means a few less variables - predictable, repeatable power level and secure, reliable connection - as well as adding a variable - adjustable power level.

Air Intake - To add to the comments about the air intake - my box is of the new(er, if not est) style, with the shallow, curved, almost invisible intake channel. Before I learned how gently to draw, I found that I could create enough turbulence to actually move the load in the trench, exposing bare screen in the closest third of the trench to my mouth.The result being that I'd get little, if any vapor, as the air then took the path of least resistance - through the bare screen!
So what level do you use your PA at and how long do you hold the button to get good vapor and avoid combustion?
 
mikeben,

MrNaturalAZ

Tree hugging dirt worshipper
So what level do you use your PA at and how long do you hold the button to get good vapor and avoid combustion?

I use the PA at 50 to 70 percent to get good hits almost instantly .

I run mine at about 75% - the dial has three white dots - min, middle, and max - and I set mine exactly halfway between the middle and max dots (with each of those dots bisected by the edge of the wood cutout from which the knob emerges).

This gives me quick heat-up, but potential for combustion if I hold the button too long or draw too slowly. I regulate temperature with a combination of adjusting my draw rate and toggling the button off and on (manual PWM, if you will).
 
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Archaicrevival

Well-Known Member
These quartz cups from vaporfection work great for the MLFB!

http://vaporfection.com/shop/accessories/mivape-quartz-cups-2-pack


They sure can make some great glass cups!

NPLxpQf.gif
 

mikeben

Well-Known Member
How long do you typically hold the button for each draw at say 50 percent on the PA? Sorry for all the questions on that specifically, I just don't want to combust.
 
mikeben,

mikeben

Well-Known Member
I typically pull faster with a vape where combustion can happen, if that can help a more specific recommendation on button time.
 
mikeben,
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Reactions: OF

OF

Well-Known Member
I typically pull faster with a vape where combustion can happen, if that can help a more specific recommendation on button time.

KF called it right, too many variables (cure, grind, load size, etc) to give you the sort of answer you seem to be looking for. You need to control the process, not expect 'plug and play'.

Most new guys draw too much I think. There's very little heat in MFLB wasting even a little impacts production a lot.

Here's a tip that might help some. It was in Linda's original MFLB review (by mistake IMO), which I can't find of course, not in the current one:

Using a fresh load let it heat with no draw until you 'fog up' the inside of the lid with water vapor and terpenes. Then gently sip them out. That's the taste (heat wise) and flow rate you're looking for to start with. After the first hit you loose that visual clue it's making vapor, change the load (saving it for vaping later of course) to get the indicator back.

As KF advises "feel the temperature", don't watch your watch...... You control the action, this is not a spectator sport. It has a lot in common with VM, but a lot of differences too. But the same 'you call the shot' sort of thing.

Keep it 'well cured, ground fine, use freshly charged batteries (or the PA), and shake, shake, shake between hits'.

OF
 

mikeben

Well-Known Member
KF called it right, too many variables (cure, grind, load size, etc) to give you the sort of answer you seem to be looking for. You need to control the process, not expect 'plug and play'.

Most new guys draw too much I think. There's very little heat in MFLB wasting even a little impacts production a lot.

Here's a tip that might help some. It was in Linda's original MFLB review (by mistake IMO), which I can't find of course, not in the current one:

Using a fresh load let it heat with no draw until you 'fog up' the inside of the lid with water vapor and terpenes. Then gently sip them out. That's the taste (heat wise) and flow rate you're looking for to start with. After the first hit you loose that visual clue it's making vapor, change the load (saving it for vaping later of course) to get the indicator back.

As KF advises "feel the temperature", don't watch your watch...... You control the action, this is not a spectator sport. It has a lot in common with VM, but a lot of differences too. But the same 'you call the shot' sort of thing.

Keep it 'well cured, ground fine, use freshly charged batteries (or the PA), and shake, shake, shake between hits'.

OF
I got the hang of the Vapman with the torch pretty well, but I must admit I love the Station because I am then not worried about the combustion issue and if the vapor is too thin or thick I just adjust the dial. I use my torch for cleaning mainly but I do feel pretty confident with overall vaping when I need a quick bowl. I have finishing grinder coming and I plan to use the PA exclusively pretty much. I will shake a lot. I just want to keep It nice and clean. I really like wood vapes and accessories so I think I will like the MFLB, just hated that one bad combust in my Vapman and want to avoid it again.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
I got the hang of the Vapman with the torch pretty well, but I must admit I love the Station because I am then not worried about the combustion issue and if the vapor is too thin or thick I just adjust the dial.

I will shake a lot. I just want to keep It nice and clean.

Yes, I picked that up which is why I mentioned it. The dial here is different. It's more like the flame adjustment on the lighter with VM. But the idea that you must fine tune your technique to control the vaping is basically the same. This is not like say a Solo is, you don't set it and ignore the details.

You have to shake, this is a conduction vape with very little power. Only the herb actually touching the screen is in play, a small percentage, and it can be quickly exhausted meaning the next hit starts from a very different point.

If you want to keep it clean, keep our herb very dry going in. Very. Condensed water vapor (easy to do with the wood) is a magnet for fouling, once started it's hard to control the buildup under the screen where you can't reach. Also be very careful to keep the wood dry, never risk ISO getting on it.

It's easy enough to 'get on the good side of MFLB' but you have to be the one to change.

Good luck.

OF
 

mikeben

Well-Known Member
Yes, I picked that up which is why I mentioned it. The dial here is different. It's more like the flame adjustment on the lighter with VM. But the idea that you must fine tune your technique to control the vaping is basically the same. This is not like say a Solo is, you don't set it and ignore the details.

You have to shake, this is a conduction vape with very little power. Only the herb actually touching the screen is in play, a small percentage, and it can be quickly exhausted meaning the next hit starts from a very different point.

If you want to keep it clean, keep our herb very dry going in. Very. Condensed water vapor (easy to do with the wood) is a magnet for fouling, once started it's hard to control the buildup under the screen where you can't reach. Also be very careful to keep the wood dry, never risk ISO getting on it.

It's easy enough to 'get on the good side of MFLB' but you have to be the one to change.

Good luck.

OF
Thanks OF, it sounds like it will be a fun challenge. I felt good mastering the Vapman, and want to get HOD down right. I doubt the MFLB will make as good of vapor, but it is so different than other vaporizers I want to see how it works.
 

Tehmongoose

I like to hi
If your looking for a great method to fill the launch box the vapir no2's plastic scooper fills it up perfectly in one mflb in one scoop!
Also it is extremely satisfying to get a nice fat rip out of the mflb for the first time without combusting the material.
 

mikeben

Well-Known Member
I guess this post is OK since this thread has not been active since Monday. First thanks to everyone who helped me prepare in the days before I got my box. I understand why now I couldn't get the exact figures. The MFLB really is a vape where it is your own individual breathing that acts as the sole temp control

I got the MFLB with P.A. yesterday and I had my first dry herb session at about 55 percent power dry about two hours ago. Felt glad I had the Vapman first as it totally had got me ready for this. As I have the torch figured out, more or less, the button was not all that hard at all. I understood the speed of breath temp thing a lot better than I thought. It just came natural, and letting go of the button when needed was easy too.

I had great vapor clouds and it was pretty tasty.

I can see why this was such a ground breaker and why it's still around. It really is a good vaporizer when you understand how to make HOD work for you. So glad again that I had a torch to get me ready. This is really the same technique but with a button.

Looking forward to trying concentrates with the 2 different tray's, and using it with the Orbiter. It completed my top five vapes! It's different enough from the others, and gives unique enough flavored vapor to make my list. Of course it's at the bottom of a top 5 list that has the EVO, Haze V3, UD, and Vapman on it, but it's very interesting to use and I'm glad I have it.

Only thing I'm not used to is how sloppy it is when you shake it. I keep feeling compelled to brush the herb back in completely into the trench after every draw.

Again thank you all for helping me get ready. I think the Vapman and you guys, plus a GREAT manual got me the most out of the box.
 
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OF

Well-Known Member
I guess this post is OK since this thread has not been active since Monday. First thanks to everyone who helped me prepare in the days before I got my box.

I think the general guide for 'consecutive posts' is the 'edit' tab. If it's still available you should edit your last post rather than do a new post, even if that means quoting new stuff. Once that times out (four hours?), obviously you have no choice but a new post.

You're welcome for the help, of course, that was the idea.......

Thanks for 'saying thanks'.

Best wishes with MFLB, it's a neat unit for sure. Lots of charm IMO. Something like VM in that respect. True 'pride of ownership' available here.

OF
 

mikeben

Well-Known Member
Ran it through a battery of tests, I really enjoy it. I managed to do both concentrate screens with hash and oil, and have a great long dry session at 40 percent on the P.A. getting thick vapor. All while using the Orbiter. I think I can pair it with my Hydratubes connecting it with a cloud buddy, and I even liked this silicone tube (I thought I would never say). Fun times ahead with this guy. I have a few @Ed's TnT MFLB/Vapman stems to work with for my wet and dry sessions that make the flavor even better.
 
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