Nugg
Well-Known Member
@Shit Snacks and @beEasy beautiful pieces you have there. Very lucky.
This is my new unit. Redwood lace burl.
This is my new unit. Redwood lace burl.
Copacetic
Somewhere North of The Wall
Green with envy just doesn't describe my colour adequately at all @Nugg 
that thing is just incredible.
[makes a frantic note-redwood lace burl]
If a log like this was unplugged (after reaching operating temp) would it retain enough heat for one (or two) good hit/s before getting wispy?
Or does power need to be applied right throughout a hit?
that thing is just incredible.[makes a frantic note-redwood lace burl]
If a log like this was unplugged (after reaching operating temp) would it retain enough heat for one (or two) good hit/s before getting wispy?
Or does power need to be applied right throughout a hit?
Here are a few more Mini HI units I recently finished that are very colorful. The first is a box elder and red heart. The second is purple heart. The third is sumac and highly figured walnut. The purple heart (3.25" tall) has a ss heater cover and the others have glass heater covers.
@Shit Snacks - Thanks for posting the photos. I really like how the shape of that one turned out. Glad you like it too.
@beEasy - Thanks for posting the photos. Afzelia turns so nice. @Snappo has some very nice wood blanks.
@Nugg - Thanks for posting the photos. That is some exceptionally nice redwood.
@Copacetic - It really works best to leave it plugged in continuously when you are using it.
@Shit Snacks - Thanks for posting the photos. I really like how the shape of that one turned out. Glad you like it too.
@beEasy - Thanks for posting the photos. Afzelia turns so nice. @Snappo has some very nice wood blanks.
@Nugg - Thanks for posting the photos. That is some exceptionally nice redwood.
@Copacetic - It really works best to leave it plugged in continuously when you are using it.
Nugg
Well-Known Member
Thank you @Copacetic! I'm in love too 
I forgot to mention that I got that redwood burl blank from the one and only @Snappo. He is an absolute pleasure to work with.
I think once you unplug a log it starts to cool pretty quickly. Also, as soon as you start drawing air through the heating element it would cool very quickly. The HI doesn't have much heated mass (plesr correct me if I'm wrong @Alan).
Just curious, why would you need to unplug the unit and hit it? If you need to go outside for stealth reasons you could just get a battery pack for it.
I forgot to mention that I got that redwood burl blank from the one and only @Snappo. He is an absolute pleasure to work with.I think once you unplug a log it starts to cool pretty quickly. Also, as soon as you start drawing air through the heating element it would cool very quickly. The HI doesn't have much heated mass (plesr correct me if I'm wrong @Alan).
Just curious, why would you need to unplug the unit and hit it? If you need to go outside for stealth reasons you could just get a battery pack for it.
Copacetic
Somewhere North of The Wall
I'm just not at all keen on cables, and thought that I could live with plugging in to heat up, unplugging to take a hit, then re-plugging and waiting for re-heat before the next hit.
The cable thing is the only reason I don't already own a log, as these things are are just stunning to look at, and also look like they function really well too.
I'd just rather not have to deal with cables or separate battery packs (picky, I know)
Still, I love spectating this thread (and the other log threads too, and Snappo's), as there's just so much eye-candy.
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Here are a few more Mini HI units I recently finished that are very colorful. The first is a box elder and red heart. The second is purple heart. The third is sumac and highly figured walnut. The purple heart (3.25" tall) has a ss heater cover and the others have glass heater covers.
@Shit Snacks - Thanks for posting the photos. I really like how the shape of that one turned out. Glad you like it too.
@beEasy - Thanks for posting the photos. Afzelia turns so nice. @Snappo has some very nice wood blanks.
@Nugg - Thanks for posting the photos. That is some exceptionally nice redwood.
@Copacetic - It really works best to leave it plugged in continuously when you are using it.
that Sumac!!!Black and yellow such a vibrant combo
All gorgeous ofcourse though, nice minis, Flame Box Elder is incredible and I know I will have to own a vape made out of it some day...
(along with ambrosia maple)
Can't wait to take those lovely curves of my new HIbrid for a test drive soon enough
@Copacetic yeah desktops have that limit, but its nice that they are always ready, reliable, powerful, and a log like this can be on all the time even. Logs make for the most portable, natural, and beautiful plugin units (maybe even the most efficient as well), could be worth getting over the cord for... I mean it's not that different than what you described, just keep it plugged on while you hit it, its a quick hit anyway, and for me logs pair so well with water anyway that its a home base vape regardless
catbird
hyperconscious
I've tried unplugging and walking around hitting my UD, thinking I'd be able to get a short session, or at least a few portable hits that way -- it doesn't work, immediate and spectacular fail, like surprisingly and dramatically unsuccessful. Gotta agree with @Shit Snacks though -- all the other features of a log are amazing and the corded aspect is worth it, and totally manageable, if not ideal. Logs are such portable plug-ins that it feels like they should be actual portables, they have that going on, but they're just not cordless yet :/
I was gonna post your photos, but you beat me to it! I cannot wait for the HIs to arrive -- purpleheart and sumac (I could not decide so I ended up going with SS and hybrid). They look so good next to each other.Here are a few more Mini HI units I recently finished that are very colorful. The first is a box elder and red heart. The second is purple heart. The third is sumac and highly figured walnut. The purple heart (3.25" tall) has a ss heater cover and the others have glass heater covers.
Last edited:
Have been doing some more tube research lately using stacked screens (my new favorite way to roast). They work really well in the Slide-a-Bowl tubes which allows the sliding tube to be used for a fiber filter if desired. Here is a photo showing the Slide-a-Bowl tube in silicone, wood, and cork connectors.
The material to be roasted is captured between the two screens. This allows for the roasting of small amounts. If it is desired to roast even smaller amounts (micro dosing), smaller stacked screens can be used in the smaller sliding tube rather than in the outer tube. In either case, it places the load very close to the heat source so most of the heat is used to roast rather than to heat up the glass tube.
Was looking at how @Madcap79 was using one of my tapered wine cork tubes with his Versa (Versa Infinity - The Glass Vaporizer) and determined that the Slide-a-Bowl tube could also be used in a similar fashion for the GTV. Additionally, the Slide-a-Bowl tube can be used for the LSV.
The following series of photos shows how these tubes can be used in both the GTV and LSV. They can also be used for any vaporizer that has an 18mm connection like the EQ, EVO, Versa, any box style, etc. The screens are in the position for use with the HI. They can be pushed all the way to the end of the glass tube for use with the 18mm glass fittings for higher roasting temperatures.
The silicone ring on the female to female fitting allows you to handle it while hot. A keck clip is not required to hold to tubes together as the silicone, wood, and cork give enough to hold the joint together.
The concept also works using plain or gong end 13mm x 10mm tubing with either a cork or silicone for a seal.
The material to be roasted is captured between the two screens. This allows for the roasting of small amounts. If it is desired to roast even smaller amounts (micro dosing), smaller stacked screens can be used in the smaller sliding tube rather than in the outer tube. In either case, it places the load very close to the heat source so most of the heat is used to roast rather than to heat up the glass tube.
Was looking at how @Madcap79 was using one of my tapered wine cork tubes with his Versa (Versa Infinity - The Glass Vaporizer) and determined that the Slide-a-Bowl tube could also be used in a similar fashion for the GTV. Additionally, the Slide-a-Bowl tube can be used for the LSV.
The following series of photos shows how these tubes can be used in both the GTV and LSV. They can also be used for any vaporizer that has an 18mm connection like the EQ, EVO, Versa, any box style, etc. The screens are in the position for use with the HI. They can be pushed all the way to the end of the glass tube for use with the 18mm glass fittings for higher roasting temperatures.
The silicone ring on the female to female fitting allows you to handle it while hot. A keck clip is not required to hold to tubes together as the silicone, wood, and cork give enough to hold the joint together.
The concept also works using plain or gong end 13mm x 10mm tubing with either a cork or silicone for a seal.
btka
Well-Known Member
may I ask when you joined the waiting list?
This man is a genius!!!!!Have been doing some more tube research lately using stacked screens (my new favorite way to roast). They work really well in the Slide-a-Bowl tubes which allows the sliding tube to be used for a fiber filter if desired. Here is a photo showing the Slide-a-Bowl tube in silicone, wood, and cork connectors.
The material to be roasted is captured between the two screens. This allows for the roasting of small amounts. If it is desired to roast even smaller amounts (micro dosing), smaller stacked screens can be used in the smaller sliding tube rather than in the outer tube. In either case, it places the load very close to the heat source so most of the heat is used to roast rather than to heat up the glass tube.
Was looking at how @Madcap79 was using one of my tapered wine cork tubes with his Versa (Versa Infinity - The Glass Vaporizer) and determined that the Slide-a-Bowl tube could also be used in a similar fashion for the GTV. Additionally, the Slide-a-Bowl tube can be used for the LSV.
The following series of photos shows how these tubes can be used in both the GTV and LSV. They can also be used for any vaporizer that has an 18mm connection like the EQ, EVO, Versa, any box style, etc. The screens are in the position for use with the HI. They can be pushed all the way to the end of the glass tube for use with the 18mm glass fittings for higher roasting temperatures.
The silicone ring on the female to female fitting allows you to handle it while hot. A keck clip is not required to hold to tubes together as the silicone, wood, and cork give enough to hold the joint together.
The concept also works using plain or gong end 13mm x 10mm tubing with either a cork or silicone for a seal.
Thanks for the kind words @Snappo. I take it you have tried it. Always trying find improved ways to roast.
@Scrimshaw - Looking forward to making you a HI. I recently discovered a new way to make glass heater cover HI's using bamboo pole. The glass heater cover is held at the bottom using a cork disk. Will post a photo after I turn another unit. Will be able to offer them very reasonably priced since I don't need to turn them on the lathe and they are fairly simple to make. They will be good for 24/7 operation.
@Scrimshaw - Looking forward to making you a HI. I recently discovered a new way to make glass heater cover HI's using bamboo pole. The glass heater cover is held at the bottom using a cork disk. Will post a photo after I turn another unit. Will be able to offer them very reasonably priced since I don't need to turn them on the lathe and they are fairly simple to make. They will be good for 24/7 operation.
Madcap79
Jack of all trades, master of none.
I want! Haha. Put me on the list!
little maggie
Well-Known Member
There's so much new I don't know how to decide what to order. I'm at about 14 months now. Hope some of you will give suggestions when mine comes up. What is a granite bottom?
Madcap79
Jack of all trades, master of none.
The bottom disc that closes out the electronics area, is made of granite. They're pretty cool looking. There are pics somewhere in the thread.....
Here we go
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/the-hi.4693/page-218#post-883067
u bwade wunner
Well-Known Member
Kenzie
Well-Known Member
@Alan Recently completed my "Hi" (with SS core) made from custom Buck eyed burl from @Snappo . I purchased a Micro VVPS (walnut), 14mm WonG tube ss tip (Buck eyed burl), 18mm WonG tube ss tip (Buck eyed burl), Slide a bowl WonG tube (Buck eyed burl), and a Twist-a-bowl tube. The Hi is in transit and i will report back after test runs. @Alan and @Snappo made the whole experience so easy from finding the wood i requested (i needed a few extra blocks for the WonG's) to selecting which stems to get and what type of unit was best suited to me. Thank you both so much 
http://imgur.com/EGc7CyD
http://imgur.com/GZ7rhBk
http://imgur.com/ytoazbT
http://imgur.com/EGc7CyD
http://imgur.com/GZ7rhBk
http://imgur.com/ytoazbT
@little maggie - The granite bottom is made from solid surface counter top material. It is basically colored acrylic. The bottom cap can be made from almost any material I can turn on the lathe since it sees no heat at all.
@Slow Draw McGraw - Don't worry. I won't forget you.
@Kenzie - Thanks for posting the photos. Glad they all turned out well. Happy roasting.
@Slow Draw McGraw - Don't worry. I won't forget you.
@Kenzie - Thanks for posting the photos. Glad they all turned out well. Happy roasting.
vorrange
Vapor.wise
Alan, i tried opening my HI today to check the resistor because i feel it is not as fast pulling big clouds as before but it seems to be a bit stuck.
i don't want to force it because i fear breaking the pin where the plug goes. what do you suggest i do?
many thanks and loving your continuous improvement since your first HI.
Scrimshaw
Vaped Crusader
7/14/2014
There are a couple of things you can try. The power socket threads can become clogged with wood sap/sugar. There is a better chance of removing the power socket while it is hot. Try removing it right after unplugging.
As moisture leaves the wood from heating, it will shrink in all dimensions. This can cause the threads to hold the power socket tighter. If you leave the HI unplugged and in a very humid location, the wood will draw in moisture and swell in size. This will also make the old style core very loose and should make the power socket easier to remove as well.
Hope you have good luck getting it out so you can install a replacement element.