The HI

Hashtag46&2

Trichome Technician
WpIJQLs.jpg

Can't wait to add a Satinwood Saber!​
Holy Shit!!!!!



:clap:
 

Alan

Master JedHI
Manufacturer
new14mmgongtubes.jpg


@hoptimum - I have added quite a few roasting tube options since the last website update. Still need to get it updated. Here are two of my latest 14mm GonG tubes. The longer tube is 5-1/4" long with an adjustable position screen for $11. The shorter tube is 2-3/4" long with an adjustable position screen for $13.
Should be able to make about anything you like.

@flotntoke - Glad to have finally gotten to your name on the list. Looking forward to turning you something special.

@Andreaerdna - You are welcome. Happy to hear your HI arrived safely and you are getting good results. The ss tubes don't need very much material to work well. Hope it helps you save money.

Almost out of the old style units now. The performance is about the same as the newer style HI's. There is an old style unit that has been running 24/7 at my house that still works very well.
I changed the design to resolve some potential issues.

Cracking of the wood body is a result of a rigid metal sleeve/disk being placed tightly into the wood. The wood tries to shrink due to the loss of moisture from being heated and it cannot, so it relieves the stress by cracking. Exotic woods that are very brittle like bocote or purple heart are most susceptible to cracking. Wood does not just randomly crack. It always cracks with a purpose. If wood is kept at room temperature, it will shrink and grow as the room humidity changes. There will be no cracking as long as the wood is free to expand/contract. The new heater cover design has a base plate that is smaller in diameter than the hole in the wood so that it won't create any stress in the wood. That is why I don't require kiln dried wood for the HI and why the new style HI's don't crack.

Charring of the wood body is also a result of rigid metal sleeve/disk being placed tightly into the wood. The constant conduction of heat from being on 24/7 will caramelize/char the wood given enough time. It can allow the core to loosen over time. The good side to the charring is that the heat conduction rate is cut to nearly 1/4 for regular wood. The new heater cover design has minimal contact area with the wood and is firmly held in place with two 3/4" long ss wood screws.

I am currently working on another new style for the HI. It will have a 7/16" threaded hole in the bottom that is closed off with a removable threaded wood plug. This will eliminate the need for the bottom cap and I can make them just as short as the Mini. Will post some photos soon.
 

Andreaerdna

If God is the answer, then the question is wrong
Ss tubes are absolutely my best way to vape small amounts of material, the extraction is very easy and complete in two hit at 12v. I prefer @11,5v (because of little surface charring at 12v) but it is great @12v too

I was feeling very little harshness hitting through it at beginning but I found MFLB glass stem to be perfect match, it makes seal inside ss tube and cool down both vapor and hitting style (ss tube plus mflb stem seems like old lady long slim cigarette :-))
 

ZC

Well-Known Member
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My HI arrived yesterday. I was able to grab one of the older-style units. It's an amazing cloud creating machine.

I love how simple the design is. Aside from the resistor in the core itself, you can see how it all goes together. The craftsmanship is incredible, with details like the hexagonal right angle adapter being perfectly cut into the wood.

I'll definitely be getting another piece from Alan in the future.
 

rotax

Zaporist
...I'll delve deeper into deets when possible. :ko:

Walnut HI w/ matching [18mm] WonG slide-a-bowl.

The wood; I really like the darker color and accents. The wood bottom cap is a really nice extra touch that I haven't had in my previous logs. The metal ring on the rear gets quite/too hot to touch (for my temp sensitive fingers). The temp of the wood itself is tolerable, similar to my UD. Operation; Heats up fast (core design is key here it looks like), I was able to produce a bit of vapor at ~5mins (I tend to like to work into the higher temps, so I like to get a cooler, flavorful hit first). Once up to full temp I had to familiarize myself with the core, and its hot, much hotter than anything I've ever used. This should work very well for hemp fiber reclaim and even qwiso dabs in hemp fiber.. ;) Take caution with shorty stems, be sure to use the tongue block trick to save your throat and lungs from too much heat. I am able to easily/consistently white wall my water pipe now. I learned the hard way that I need to make adjustments to all my old stems screen position. I got a bunch of smoke when I used my 14mm gong bowl (with screen adjusted for the UD). Voltage; My initial testing was at 12.01 vdc per my VK. I turned it down to 11.94 currently, I'll likely work it down a bit more. Weight; Its light. Mine tends to want to tip back and tripod onto the power cord. Now the 90* adapter makes sense.. lol

The wong; It fits/seals the D020-D much better than the 18>14 reducer or the U-tube did. This pipe has a very deep joint it seems, and has to slide into it a ways. The wong is beautiful and works very well.

Slide-a-bowl; Its a little confusing at first, but, I think I got it to work for me. So far I've only used it in the wong. I have another wine-cork style glass direct draw tube with hemp fiber as my go-to glass direct draw straw.

Very happy with this unit. Most powerful vape I've experienced. I have my new DD. :) Livin the HI life.
 
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rotax

Zaporist
...The metal ring on the rear gets quite/too hot to touch (for my temp sensitive fingers)...

I'd 'edit' if I could... But to follow up on this particular note.

I found (..aggressive spam filter) and read the email from Alan about installing the rolled silicone ring to cover this metal piece as well as assist in holding the power plug into the port. The burnt fingers on metal ring issue is now a non-issue. :)

Update: I've been running my voltage around 11.42vdc and have found a great balance for myself. I've also learned to adjust my draw technique and duration to better fit the HI. Also, the slide-a-bowl wong is likely my favorite stem now. I need some more 18mm glass!
 
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timmahsan

treEnt

ZC

Well-Known Member
Hey guys,

I'm trying to figure out if my VVPS (VK) unit went bad, or my HI needs some attention. It won't heat up consistently, and I was wondering if I can just plug my HI directly into the wall outlet with the following:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NTNGN0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

I'm an electrical noob, so any help would be great.

That power supply should work fine. It has the right connector, voltage, and 2a is plenty so it should be all you need to troubleshoot.
 

Angryman

The Benzedrine's got my teeth wiggling.
Alan, would knotted pine (or any of the softwood white pine family) turn well and be durable enough for a vape body? I have a sentimental love for knotted white pine and always wondered if there's ever been one made of it yet...
 
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Alan

Master JedHI
Manufacturer
@rotax - Thanks for posting the photos and review. Glad you found the silicone ring to cover the metal power socket. Here is a photo of the how it looks when installed.

powersocketcover.jpg


The right angle plug on the power cord reduces the chance of a twist in the cord knocking the HI over. The shorter Mini designs make them harder to knock over as well.

@timmahsan - Are you using a 12 volt power supply for your VK? The PS in the link you provided can also be used for your VK. I like to have 2 amps for capacity so it doesn't have to work so hard.

@Angryman - I have turned one from Yew wood that had lots of knots in it.

yewknot02.jpg


It looks very nice, but knots can get quite hot as heat is conducted along the wood grain. This was on old style HI with the metal outer sleeve making heat conduction more rapid. The new style HI uses mostly radiant heat transfer from the heater cover to the outer wood. Knots in the wood are more dense and store more heat energy. The new heater cover for the HI allows it to be used in pretty much any kind of wood. I was always a bit reluctant using soft pine woods with the old core design.

Still trying to get through the list as quickly as possible. It does take a bit longer as each order is custom. Many of the pieces I make require glass of some sort. I was looking through my list of parts and found that I make around 15 different size/shapes of glass tubes for my various roasting tubes. Many of them have multiple uses. Just finished another big batch of glass tubes. I also make around 9 different size/shapes of silicone tubes. Then there is the stainless steel, cork, and wood piece parts.
 

pappayo

New Member
After a year and half wait I finally got "the" email. I will soon be a JedHI saber rattler. Vape action is new to me though so I'm trying to make sense of the accessories. From what I can tell I will get the longer slide a bowl for direct draws and a short gong adapter to hook up to a 14mm bubbler. Does that sound about right?

What I really need to do is get some wood to Alan. From the pics my favourite has been the yew wood with knots then the "Incredible Burl Eye Concentration - Golden Amboyna Burl!!! "

I am severly stoked and can't wait to get the ball rolling on this build!!!
 

timmahsan

treEnt
@timmahsan - Are you using a 12 volt power supply for your VK? The PS in the link you provided can also be used for your VK. I like to have 2 amps for capacity so it doesn't have to work so hard.

Yes, I believe it is the extension cord that is bad. I tried daisy chaining it to the PS I linked, and it did not work. Directly into the PS from the wall works though. I am working with VK to get a new extension cord.
 

Alan

Master JedHI
Manufacturer
I have wanted to see how small a VVPS can be made for a while now and recently found some buck/boost variable voltage boards w/ a built in digital display. The electrical connections to the board can be made without soldering. The simplest / cheapest application for log style vaporizers is to cut a DC extension cord and connect the appropriate ends to the circuit board. The board is rated for 25 watts which is more than adequate. Has been working very well with a Heat Island.
I chose to attached the board to a piece of wood 2" x 1-3/4" x 5/8" that contains a power socket and power plug electrically connected to the circuit board. There are silicone feet on the bottom so it doesn't slide around. The overall height is 1-3/8". There is an on/off switch and another to change the voltage display.
The voltage can only be adjusted using a small screwdriver or swiss army knife so it can't be accidentally changed. This may be the smallest VVPS possible w/ built in power socket/plug. I'm calling it the Micro VVPS. Certainly not as nice as the Voltage Keeper but it performs the same basic functions. The VK has a 4 digit display, more precise/easier voltage adjustment, and is fully enclosed.
I like the ultra simple look of the Micro VVPS with everything exposed. May have to make some more.

microvvps.jpg
 

ZC

Well-Known Member
I've been experimenting with a couple of similar boards for a VVPS and was considering making a more elaborate case for it. I have two models, one that requires the screwdriver like the one you've made, and another that has buttons. I plan on making a full wooden enclosure with an acrylic window for the screen. The one that requires a screwdriver would have a small knob with the screw tip on the bottom, held in place by a lip on the knob that sits under the face of the wooden case. The other model would simply have wooden buttons, probably a "rocker" style button like a 2-way version of the d-pad on a gaming controller.

I'm a ways off from completing this as I'm still putting together my garage "shop" and I need to replace my bandsaw, but if any of this seems appealing to you or anyone else I'd encourage you to give it a try.
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Guess who got an email today :o:rockon::nod:

Oh you @catbird and @snackmaster making me realize I must be pretty close then if y'all were through end of April since I got on the list mid June... Totally forgot its already been well over a year for me now, thinking about what I'm going to end up with, likely standard core to have it under my belt for starters though I do love me some exquisite flavors... Tough call, i feel like the water monster makes the most sense overall, but do like the idea of a fancy taste ful piece in every sense, ties it all together as a connoisseur vape... Hmmm

I know its been done to death already but more comparisons never hurt, such a fine difference in such beyond beautiful and spectacular pieces in their own right. You can rest stems on the standard but not the hybrid core? You can rest standard upside down on bubbler but not the hybrid? Am I wrong about that? Hard to keep track with so many stems too, that's the next tough part lol (mmm and wood...)

And now the mirco vvps @Alan! Love it! Sure it can't do everything a VK can do, but at a much lower price and still very functional, its really quite wonderful imo! You just can't stop creating can you sir? (Don't ever! lol)

I think this is going to be a very fun and apparently well heated fall/winter for me...
 
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OnlyHuman

Well-Known Member
OK, it's been about a week and a half since I received my HI and I am in love. I was a LSV guy for quite some time and the only thing that I liked the LSV more was because I could fit more herbs into the bowl piece for the LSV. The ones that came with the HI are sooo tiny, think around 2-3 hits, than repack. I do have two different 14mm stems for my Mobius so you can have two packed and ready to go, but I'd like two more.











The wood is a two-tone Afzelia Burlwood from Snappo!(http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/e...m-quality-custom-log-vapes-vapor-stems.14039/)

Alan, this stuff is great, thank you so much. Very happy customer right here!

Cheers all, put your name in, and do something else for a year, the time flew for me.

-andrew
 

Vapinghole

Low-Temp Hempist / JedHI Master
OK, it's been about a week and a half since I received my HI and I am in love. I was a LSV guy for quite some time and the only thing that I liked the LSV more was because I could fit more herbs into the bowl piece for the LSV. The ones that came with the HI are sooo tiny, think around 2-3 hits, than repack. I do have two different 14mm stems for my Mobius so you can have two packed and ready to go, but I'd like two more.











The wood is a two-tone Afzelia Burlwood from Snappo!(http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/e...m-quality-custom-log-vapes-vapor-stems.14039/)

Alan, this stuff is great, thank you so much. Very happy customer right here!

Cheers all, put your name in, and do something else for a year, the time flew for me.

-andrew

Holy fuckballs! (As our JedHI friend bOObs once said in this thread)

Gorgeous!!

HI, everyone! :wave:
 
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