mvapes - Thanks for all the HI porn. Some amazing glass configurations.
Papa Woody - Glad you are still enjoying your HIsaber. That amboyna burl is some amazing wood.
ogcook - Glad you got to try a HI. It may make the wait tougher though.
sundrk - Thanks for posting the photos of the latest amboyna burl units. I enjoy working with that wood although it can be a bit brittle and takes some extra care when working. Wish it wasn't so expensive.
Medivape - The minimum I need is 1.5" x 1.5" x 3.75". If you want one with a matching bottom cap it should be more like 4.5" long. 10" long would be enough for 2 units. I might be able to use blanks as small as 1.3" square. The wood is much more affordable in these smaller sizes.
Ed - Thanks for the kind words. Looking forward to seeing some work off that new lathe.
CentiZen - It is the Heat Island core that contains the heat island technology. The PD shell could theoretically accept a new Heat Island core. It was the PD core that was causing all of the wood charring. It is more of a heat sink than a heat exchanger. Adding glass beads to the heating element wires would allow it to use a single entry point between the upper and lower cavities. It should function exactly as a HI with the HI core since the heating element is identical. It would be a Purple Island.
Dr. P - Congratulations. Welcome to the JedHI order.
So I finally broke down and purchased a power meter to see how much the HI is pulling. I am getting a reading around 9 watts with a little over 12 volts applied. That is way more than I thought. No wonder the HI runs so hot. I wanted to see how my modified LSV compared at my desired dial position. It is running at 13 watts. The HI seems to be a bit more efficient at producing the hot air for roasting since it has the same performance at a lower wattage. My GTV was running at around 28 watts with full voltage applied. The LSV was drawing 36 watts at full dial position. No wonder it is so easy to combust above a dial position of 12 o'clock.
I was asked if I could make a HI with only the power cord entering the wood in a small hole rather than the metal power socket. The threaded hole for the power socket is a pain in the ass to make, so I thought I would try the cord into the wood. I had some short extension cords that were sent by mistake so I cut one up and made a HI with a short tail. There is a knot tied in the wire to keep it from pulling out of the wood and it is soldered directly to the heating element wires. SS screws hold everything in place. The tail can be about any length. This one is made from a piece of Blood Wood that was too short for a regular HI. It is only 3.5" tall and was a perfect candidate to test. I have some other 3.5" blanks that may get the same treatment some day.
I have started soldering the wires together in all of the HI's for a better electrical connection.