The HI

tig420

Well-Known Member
KEEP YOUR EYES ON THE CLASSIFIEDS!

I've seen 2 go on there, in the last month and a half. Maybe less?

One could show. up. any. day. ;)

(cold day in Hell before it will be mine! I'm just saying...)
im thinking about putting mine up along with a crz and a few other vapes i just have to many that dont see enough use and i am currently collecting cash but its a hard decision to make because i like em all. i dont know if i can bring myself to sell them but keep your eyes open. :huh:
 
tig420,

Alan

Master JedHI
Manufacturer
The_Algebraist - Thank you.

that herb guy - I treat the wood with pure beeswax. I heat up the wood and allow the wax to soak into the wood fibers. Only the outside of the tubes are waxed so it shouldn't affect the taste. The wood will develop character over time. I would recommend ethyl (drinking) alcohol over isopropyl alcohol for cleaning since it has less residual taste. The wand hash can also be harvested that same way as in the glass tubes. Pulling hot air from the HI through an empty tube softens the oil so that a skewer tool can scrape the sides and collect the material. Alcohol is for final cleaning. My wood tubes will work very well with the UD and any others with a 3/8" center tube.

Vapinghole - Your WonG does have a beeswax finish. If it ever starts looking dry, you can always wax your WonG. A hair dryer will get the wood hot enough to melt the beeswax. The hair dryer can be used for waxing your HI too. The wood can be smoothed before applying wax by rubbing with 0000 (very fine) steel wool. The moisture from our hands can sometimes raise the wood fibers.
 

Vapinghole

Low-Temp Hempist / JedHI Master
I stand corrected. Thanks, Alan. It felt so natural I couldn't detect it.

I can't wait to wax my WonG :tup:
 
Vapinghole,
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momofthegoons

vapor accessory addict
I have several tubes made of wood; some from Alan and some from Ed. Alan made me a beautiful purple heart tube, as well as an ebony tube made from a sharp from a piano. And from Ed, I have a walnut, black and white ebony, myrtle, cocobolo, afzelia burl, redwood lace burl, blue mahoe, cherry, and bocote. So I think I can tell you a little about the taste of vapor through wood. :) Since both of these fine gentlemen only use bees wax on their tubes/stems, and it is only applied to the external part of the tube/stem, the vapor is not affected by it in any way. The inside can get a build up, however, of resin. There aren't too many ways to clean them other than a quick swipe with a ISO dipped pipe cleaner. I have never had to do that with any of the tubes/stems I have so far though, and they have had plenty of mileage.
 

that herb guy

Well-Known Member
That's an impressive array of stems mom. The ebony out of a piano key sounds awesome, if not too much trouble I'd love to see a pic of that, it sounds like it would almost have to be a 'one hitter' size piece. I have a feeling I'll end up with several different varieties myself, this saves re-packing stems when friends come over and everyone knows which them they have for the night by varying colors/wood types.

Thank you for all the answers about finishes. It makes sense now to just avoid treating the inside of the wood. As for cleaning I think the preferred way is an ethyl alcohol (strong vodka or rum?) as ISO has a reputation for leaving a taste when cleaning tobacco pipes - but since we aren't getting up to those temperatures that might not be as big a factor.

I was under the impression Ed's tubes usually had metal inserts at the heater side to hold and line the 'bowl' section and wasn't exposing the wood to heat directly, but that is a long thread and I haven't quite looked over the whole thing yet LOL.

I am loving the speed log vape designers are coming up with new solutions and ideas, not just sitting on a product that is already obviously a highly desired piece. If I had to select a vape purely on aesthetics, ease and convenience.. I don't know how you can really beat the log lol. 24/7, no two alike, and all usually with their own sense of character.
 
that herb guy,

jambandphan03

in flavor country
I have really been enjoying the hell out of this HI.:D It has become my daily driver. I feel I have come to a happy place with the voltage. I am using a digital VV now:Set at 12.2v Top dial is at max reads 0.56. Everything seems to be working well so far. I put the smaller 12.4v VV aside to use for travel or back up. Looks like I will soon be joining in the wong waxing fun! :brow: Thanks Alan!



(ignore numbers in photo)

FEqvGIV.jpg
 

vorrange

Vapor.wise
I have to say that this vid was way more impressive than the WW one.... :clap:

Definitly, the HI milked the tube much faster and with a higher density which was noticeable when i exhaled.

But bear in mind that i used the HI GonG and not a WW stem, and also the WW itself does not run as hot as the HI.

Nice show Vorrange :tup:You sure smashed that mash!
:nod: Thanks bwade wunner!
 
vorrange,

natural farmer

Well-Known Member
Definitly, the HI milked the tube much faster and with a higher density which was noticeable when i exhaled.

But bear in mind that i used the HI GonG and not a WW stem, and also the WW itself does not run as hot

So you don't run them with a VVPS, right? With the VVPS I can emulate your video exactly with my Pod. I believe it's a must have with a modern log! :D
 
natural farmer,
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vorrange

Vapor.wise
So you don't run them with a VVPS, right? With the VVPS I can emulate your video exactly with my Pod. I believe it's a must have with a modern log! :D

I need to try using the same settings as the video but i'm pretty sure i can replicate the experience using a VVPS but mine crapped on me a few days ago. In theory, every log will have the same performance as another if you have a VVPS nearby.

I'm thinking the POD is about as hot as the WW at 12V, considering many peoples sweetspot is 13,5V and in the HI its 11,5V and usually higher than 12,4V is not advised by the Jedhi Master.
 

Alan

Master JedHI
Manufacturer
vorrange - A treat indeed. That was a very nice video. The force is strong with you. Good temperature control technique and a nice twist of the tube on removing. Maxtration for sure.

jambandphan - That is a very nice voltage (12.2) and interesting to see only 0.56 amps. I will have to try one of my 0.50 amp power supplies to see how it works with the HI. I will need to find a good stock power supply around 12.2 volts in addition to something with variable voltage. Glad you will soon be able to wax your WonG.

I wanted to share a photo of how I am using my Turbo Tubes with an 18mm male glass connection.
The 10mm glass tube is just half as long and has a second silicone sleeve installed so there is no exposed glass. The lower silicone sleeve fits perfectly into the end of an 18mm male GonG end. No adapters are required.
I don't pull the tube to clear the chamber but continue to draw air through the hot mass that is still producing vapor. This removes heat from the hot mass while it clears the chamber.

Back to making WonGs now.

dgminiturbotube.jpg
 

BigDaddyVapor

@BigDogJunction
I wanted to share a photo of how I am using my Turbo Tubes with an 18mm male glass connection.
The 10mm glass tube is just half as long and has a second silicone sleeve installed so there is no exposed glass. The lower silicone sleeve fits perfectly into the end of an 18mm male GonG end. No adapters are required.
I don't pull the tube to clear the chamber but continue to draw air through the hot mass that is still producing vapor. This removes heat from the hot mass while it clears the chamber.

Back to making WonGs now.

dgminiturbotube.jpg

Nice cock, Alan.

I'm not following you on this whole, shorter glass, not pulling to clear, la de da. You sir, are not a glass man. Leave that to the experts, come to us... ask us. We will teach you how to properly nourish yourself, while suckling on your cock, uhm... water piece. Excuse me. Paging, Dr Freud...

Anyway. Here's my issues.

I like the ability to move the silicone. As most of my pieces are 18mm and my reducer isn't wide enough @ the opening, I use 2 pieces of silicone. One to seat, the other for herb. I like to have at least 3/4" available in the sleeve, to load. As I'm vaping that... I'm pushing it down, decreasing the size of the herb chamber, keeping the heat close. That's how I take it down to dark coffee, if I'm looking for it, that day.

As for not clearing. In the method you mention, I clear so I don't have to apply pressurized air to the other end, to loosen the load, after I just vacuum sucked it into the screen. It creates a great deal of drag, allowing the load to pack that far/hard to. I pull, clear... then fluff the load back up. Typically, I do this, by backing the glass tube out a bit, off the screen. Putting my finger over the silicon and blowing in the seat end. This loosens it all up, off the screen and allows me to mix it up with the pinch and roll. Put it back over the tube, push down a little bit, for the compacting load and vape away to dust, if you want to.

Oh... not featuring, but shot with... HIsaber Sumac


More coming tonight. Hopefully DR and SSFG.
 
BigDaddyVapor,
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treecityrnd

Active Member
So you don't run them with a VVPS, right? With the VVPS I can emulate your video exactly with my Pod. I believe it's a must have with a modern log! :D
Or is that the definition of a classic resistor-based log; no VV?
I always believed the next step for logs was to go 110V and a more reliable heating source (resistor are great, but we are always pushing the failure limit at 13V+). Where should the VV/potentiometer be on a "modern" log? The vape itself? cord? What higher-range heating source would you like to see? SS, ceramic, etc?
But I completely agree that a VV is needed with a current resistor-based log. Look how lovely JAMs VV looks...Do you have Kum&Go in Oregon (the gas station of course...)
 

vorrange

Vapor.wise
Or is that the definition of a classic resistor-based log; no VV?
I always believed the next step for logs was to go 110V and a more reliable heating source (resistor are great, but we are always pushing the failure limit at 13V+). Where should the VV/potentiometer be on a "modern" log? The vape itself? cord? What higher-range heating source would you like to see? SS, ceramic, etc?
But I completely agree that a VV is needed with a current resistor-based log. Look how lovely JAMs VV looks...Do you have Kum&Go in Oregon (the gas station of course...)

Going 110V is not an improvement IMO. That is only for US residents. How about the rest of us?

The obvious choice of the VV knob would be on the body, but how is that different from an LSV except for the wooden body? That is what the nano is, an LSV in a wooden body.

A VV is a nice add-on, and should remain as such.
 
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