paytonpenn
Level 30 Nature/Healer
Where is the dial at and is the flame definitely lighting?
How is the hiss volume?
How is the hiss volume?
Sounds like you needed a good purge, I don't recommend changing the internal dial yet, its actually behind the normal dial.Where is the internal dial located at? I haven't opened it up yet but I'm about to. I emptied it then filled and the hiss sound louder and more distinct.
I wanted to share the tuning process with everyone here so if your light isn't heating up right be very care when tuning it will cause damage to the unit and I bet it might even effect the warranty so this is just to help anyone who might need a slight tuning just be smart about it and take your time.
First part is hold the hammer so the big end is facing the roof and the lighter trigger is facing the floor.
Next turn the heating dial all the way up to the plus sign on the right.
If you look close there is a small gear right below the thumb pad.
What you want to do is carefully place the tip of the nail in the last notch to the left of the thumb pad.
Then gently push it right towards the thumb pad.
The gear will want to slid just a little notch then stop so you must use a soft touch to get it to move.
Finally test it and see how it turned out.
To get my hammer back in turn it only took about 3 notches to slid and now it works great. If you find that your lighter just isn't heating quite up to par you now know how to make minor adjustments to the tuning. PLEASE just be careful and don't over tune it can melt or even catch the hammer on fire.
If I click one more internal notch up, and crank the dial all the way to the top, it will sputter out. But it will not sputter out at the levels I am at and run.
I vary the draw speed depending on how its heating up. It really varies from slow to fast, depending on what kind of feedback I am getting from the heat on my tongue. Most draws are 10-15 seconds long with heat on, then continuing to pull for another few 5+ seconds.
Sure I have combusted a few times, but that is literally out of many hundreds of sessions since this past April. It is a rare occurrence that has probably happened less than 5 times since I really became accustomed to hitting it. Now if I go hard, I can sense it and back off when I am getting a charred top. So I will back down the heat until I find the sweet spot again.
I have combusted far more often with the Lotus
I get sooooo ambitious with the Lotus, but for the most part I cash those bowls in 1-1.5 draws.
Someone with carpal tunnel or some other joint problem. I don't think I'm the oldest person here and my new hammer is pretty painful to use. Much harder to press than a plain butane lighter for one of the other butane vapes. I'm sticking with my solo and UD.Why not ?seems like anybody that enjoyed vaporizers would like this one. I can see how they might not like the butane aspect , aside from that who wouldn't like this power tool
Hammer body with a battery inside and coil wrapped around the heat exchanger, or ceramic, whichever material is best for this concept
I also imagine a Hammer where you move the bottom tank and trigger area up to the level where the heat exchanger is, having the exchanger bent to a 145 degree angle and placing the button on the top where the vent hole is around. Now its a more ergonomic and stealthier vaporizer.
Nah, not yet. I'd give it a week or so to see where you like the outside dial.Would you recommend raising the dial or nah
Speaking of hand problems, I've broken each hand like 4 times and my wrists have been broken as well.
The ONLY issue with the hammer for me is the ignitor. Until I found the perfect thick rubber bad at work, it would kill my hands to hold down the button. Now I ignite and pull the band over quick.
I wish I would have seen this earlier. In the future if you need to change the heat settings on your Hammer @Philreal posted the best step by step tutorial for adjusting The Hammer flame. I keep it saved in a file for future reference.
I wanted to share the tuning process with everyone here so if your light isn't heating up right be very care when tuning it will cause damage to the unit and I bet it might even effect the warranty so this is just to help anyone who might need a slight tuning just be smart about it and take your time.
First part is hold the hammer so the big end is facing the roof and the lighter trigger is facing the floor.
Next turn the heating dial all the way up to the plus sign on the right.
If you look close there is a small gear right below the thumb pad.
What you want to do is carefully place the tip of the nail in the last notch to the left of the thumb pad.
Then gently push it right towards the thumb pad.
The gear will want to slid just a little notch then stop so you must use a soft touch to get it to move.
Finally test it and see how it turned out.
To get my hammer back in turn it only took about 3 notches to slid and now it works great. If you find that your lighter just isn't heating quite up to par you now know how to make minor adjustments to the tuning. PLEASE just be careful and don't over tune it can melt or even catch the hammer on fire.
If your lighter uses a piezoelectric ignition system (that's what makes the spark), as most lighters have nowadays, then you have poor shielding somewhere in the TV or cabling and it's picking up the RFI from the ignitor. Try an older flint type lighter or matches. It won't hurt anything, so you could either live with it, or hire someone to track down the poor shielding issue. If it's a Philips/Magnavox, don't bother, They're poorly shielded and that's just the nature of the beast.
The lighter works by generating a pulse of high voltages which causes a spark to light the gas cooker or whatever ! An electrical spark radiates a radio frequency pulse which cover about all of the broadcast band which includes TV radio etc. Very early transmitters used a spark transmitter to signal with in fact I think that the Titanic SOS was sent using a spark transmitter !!!!