Discontinued The Hammer Vaporizer

Mrmrmrmr

Well-Known Member
It looks like the flame is lighting. I turned off all lights and saw a blue flame right where the the top part intersects with the handle(hope that makes sense) I have the dial at 70-75.just got vapor when I tried it dry. Looks like it isn't working with the wpa. Should I purge or not guys?
 
Mrmrmrmr,

paytonpenn

Level 30 Nature/Healer
How loud is the hiss? I would remember it then purge and refill, see if there was a difference in volume.

I personally would up the internal dial a notch, but you may not need that yet.
 

Mrmrmrmr

Well-Known Member
Where is the internal dial located at? I haven't opened it up yet but I'm about to. I emptied it then filled and the hiss sound louder and more distinct.
Edit-tried it at 100% with the wpa. Got very small amount of vapor no where near as much as the dry stem.
 
Mrmrmrmr,

paytonpenn

Level 30 Nature/Healer
Where is the internal dial located at? I haven't opened it up yet but I'm about to. I emptied it then filled and the hiss sound louder and more distinct.
Sounds like you needed a good purge, I don't recommend changing the internal dial yet, its actually behind the normal dial.

I wanted to share the tuning process with everyone here so if your light isn't heating up right be very care when tuning it will cause damage to the unit and I bet it might even effect the warranty so this is just to help anyone who might need a slight tuning just be smart about it and take your time.

First part is hold the hammer so the big end is facing the roof and the lighter trigger is facing the floor.

Next turn the heating dial all the way up to the plus sign on the right.

If you look close there is a small gear right below the thumb pad.



What you want to do is carefully place the tip of the nail in the last notch to the left of the thumb pad.

Then gently push it right towards the thumb pad.



The gear will want to slid just a little notch then stop so you must use a soft touch to get it to move.

Finally test it and see how it turned out.


To get my hammer back in turn it only took about 3 notches to slid and now it works great. If you find that your lighter just isn't heating quite up to par you now know how to make minor adjustments to the tuning. PLEASE just be careful and don't over tune it can melt or even catch the hammer on fire.

This is also a good note
If I click one more internal notch up, and crank the dial all the way to the top, it will sputter out. But it will not sputter out at the levels I am at and run.

I vary the draw speed depending on how its heating up. It really varies from slow to fast, depending on what kind of feedback I am getting from the heat on my tongue. Most draws are 10-15 seconds long with heat on, then continuing to pull for another few 5+ seconds.

Sure I have combusted a few times, but that is literally out of many hundreds of sessions since this past April. It is a rare occurrence that has probably happened less than 5 times since I really became accustomed to hitting it. Now if I go hard, I can sense it and back off when I am getting a charred top. So I will back down the heat until I find the sweet spot again.

I have combusted far more often with the Lotus :(
I get sooooo ambitious with the Lotus, but for the most part I cash those bowls in 1-1.5 draws.
 

Mrmrmrmr

Well-Known Member
Now I know what it truly means to be hammered :o
Thanks for all your help @paytonpenn
The dab I had was not to my liking at all. Tasted mostly butane and little of the true wax flavor. My technique might be the best so that could be it.
On the other hand I dropped a small dab on top of some herb.that was incredible. Best flavor from a vape I've had with that wax. Maximum cloud production. Very very toasty right now :freak:
 

paytonpenn

Level 30 Nature/Healer
Were you heating while taking the dab?

Can you put a stem on the Hammer start inhaling them plug the hole on the opposite end? Does airflow stop entirely?
 
paytonpenn,

wax

Well-Known Member
When I dabbed from it I was heating for a little bit while dabbing. What's your advice when dabbing through the hammer ?more specifically low temp tasty dabs?
 
wax,

paytonpenn

Level 30 Nature/Healer
Never have the flame on while dabbing with nail. I normally get it a little above temp before the dab. If it's too hot I would only have to wait a few seconds for it to cool. Recommend trying convection with just some cotton and oil on the screen should give much better and more consistent low temp hits.
 
paytonpenn,

little maggie

Well-Known Member
Why not ?seems like anybody that enjoyed vaporizers would like this one. I can see how they might not like the butane aspect , aside from that who wouldn't like this power tool
Someone with carpal tunnel or some other joint problem. I don't think I'm the oldest person here and my new hammer is pretty painful to use. Much harder to press than a plain butane lighter for one of the other butane vapes. I'm sticking with my solo and UD.
 

Sinclue

OK disagree with me, I can't force you to be right
I have arthritis issues and came up with a half assed solution that actually works well, for me at least.
I used the squared end of a chopstick (I even had a black one I could use) cut down to about 1 1/2". With the switch depressed I can stick the piece in between the switch and the body and that keeps it "on". As a further "improvement" I tapered one end so it rests better at the top against the body, but doesn't stick there. So I have to hold it in place, but I did that as a safety issue. If I don't hold it the piece pops out and the Hammer shuts off. A small rubber band holds it with the Hammer when not in use.

~
 

KidFated.

Unknown Member
Speaking of hand problems, I've broken each hand like 4 times and my wrists have been broken as well.

The ONLY issue with the hammer for me is the ignitor. Until I found the perfect thick rubber bad at work, it would kill my hands to hold down the button. Now I ignite and pull the band over quick.
 

paytonpenn

Level 30 Nature/Healer
There was no video.

Raising the dial adjust the torch's true output; its put at a safe level (by default) where it shouldn't sputter out and should stop working when you actually need more butane rather than before.

For example some lighters I notice myself increasing the dial in order to keep a flame.

EDIT:
Anyone able to make an E-Hammer?
Hammer body with a battery inside and coil wrapped around the heat exchanger, or ceramic, whichever material is best for this concept
I also imagine a Hammer where you move the bottom tank and trigger area up to the level where the heat exchanger is, having the exchanger bent to a 145 degree angle and placing the button on the top where the vent hole is around. Now its a more ergonomic and stealthier vaporizer.
 
Last edited:
paytonpenn,

little maggie

Well-Known Member
Speaking of hand problems, I've broken each hand like 4 times and my wrists have been broken as well.

The ONLY issue with the hammer for me is the ignitor. Until I found the perfect thick rubber bad at work, it would kill my hands to hold down the button. Now I ignite and pull the band over quick.

Do you have a picture of the band? I'm not quite sure how this would work.
 
little maggie,

RUDE BOY

Space is the Place
@Unisonruss The tuning method is in the following Quote from earlier in the thread, just be very careful not to set it too high.

I wish I would have seen this earlier. In the future if you need to change the heat settings on your Hammer @Philreal posted the best step by step tutorial for adjusting The Hammer flame. I keep it saved in a file for future reference.

I wanted to share the tuning process with everyone here so if your light isn't heating up right be very care when tuning it will cause damage to the unit and I bet it might even effect the warranty so this is just to help anyone who might need a slight tuning just be smart about it and take your time.

First part is hold the hammer so the big end is facing the roof and the lighter trigger is facing the floor.

Next turn the heating dial all the way up to the plus sign on the right.

If you look close there is a small gear right below the thumb pad.



What you want to do is carefully place the tip of the nail in the last notch to the left of the thumb pad.

Then gently push it right towards the thumb pad.



The gear will want to slid just a little notch then stop so you must use a soft touch to get it to move.

Finally test it and see how it turned out.


To get my hammer back in turn it only took about 3 notches to slid and now it works great. If you find that your lighter just isn't heating quite up to par you now know how to make minor adjustments to the tuning. PLEASE just be careful and don't over tune it can melt or even catch the hammer on fire.
 
RUDE BOY,
Hello all,

First post! :D

Received my red bottomed hammer pro this time last week and have used it everyday so far instead of my lotus. Absolutely love my hammer, I bought it to pair with my glass but haven't used it once with it, its just so easy using it directly. I love that it is a one handed device.

I have noticed an odd thing happening though - last night while using my hammer while reading the forum, when I would ignite the hammer next to my laptop the screen would mess up and go a weird colourful static and I'd have to reboot. This happened about 5 times last night and has just happened now because I had forgotten to not ignite beside my screen.

Has anyone else had this happen? Can someone explain what is going on?

It's 100% to do with the hammer being used beside the laptop and I'm just trying to figure out how or why.
 

paytonpenn

Level 30 Nature/Healer
Never experienced it but this Yahoo answer has a few posts that make sense of it.

These are what caught my eye,
If your lighter uses a piezoelectric ignition system (that's what makes the spark), as most lighters have nowadays, then you have poor shielding somewhere in the TV or cabling and it's picking up the RFI from the ignitor. Try an older flint type lighter or matches. It won't hurt anything, so you could either live with it, or hire someone to track down the poor shielding issue. If it's a Philips/Magnavox, don't bother, They're poorly shielded and that's just the nature of the beast.

The lighter works by generating a pulse of high voltages which causes a spark to light the gas cooker or whatever ! An electrical spark radiates a radio frequency pulse which cover about all of the broadcast band which includes TV radio etc. Very early transmitters used a spark transmitter to signal with in fact I think that the Titanic SOS was sent using a spark transmitter !!!!
 
Ah,

I thought as much really.

Thanks for the quick reply. Its not really a huge issue for me I just have to try to remember not to use it while hovering over my laptop. It was weird.
 
VoltarsVault,
Sure
2nksal0.jpg

xgi9p1.jpg


They took ages to upload and I think they are sideways but here you go :D
 
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