I have to have the cap quite loose, otherwise it'll bind when I heat it - 2 to 3 revolutions. I'm rapidly getting sick of having to freeze it after every bowl cos due to the nature of what I'm vaping, I forget to loosen it. To be clear, I'm not cranking it down, just tightening it til I feel some feedback.
The Dani by Battery-free Ganz
- Thread starter batteryfreeganz
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LittleBoy0311
Active Member
EXACTLY, tightening it till you feel something and than to half unscrew.
Also, if you use a piler to screw it you will never be stuck and you can hot swap.
Also, yours looks a little too much. Tried to write down to BFG? Customer service is very good
Also, are you really ranting on something that easy to avoid? When the direct competitor of the Dani costs double the price and deliver almost the same extraction? Oke
One full revolution back from when it first encounters resistance, binds after a heat cycle. Am in conversation with them so, so we'll see what happens.
And cool your jets, I asked a question, then gave more info, I have not ranted at all. And that isn't an easy fix for me as like I said, due to the nature of what I'm vaping, I forget to loosen it, cos the amount I do have to loosen it seems excessive. I came here looking for help, I don't need your accusations that have no truth to them.
And cool your jets, I asked a question, then gave more info, I have not ranted at all. And that isn't an easy fix for me as like I said, due to the nature of what I'm vaping, I forget to loosen it, cos the amount I do have to loosen it seems excessive. I came here looking for help, I don't need your accusations that have no truth to them.
BingsBuddery
Derelict Meatsack
Oh I believe you, my V2 used to do it occassionally, but has stopped either due to modding or just repeated use. I'm not having that problem on V3. How tightly is it binding? I just keep a cloth handy, double it up, and use it to twist apart the hot ends, and I've never had it bind so tightly that I can't easily hand torque it free. Funny thing tho, I get this issue ALL the time with my Anvil XL bowl... fucker gets stuck in there and then a magnet just threads the body loose.
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I've tried pliers, it just refuses to move. The only thing that'll do it is 10-15mins in the freezer, it can sit for half an hour at room temp and still be bound. It's so frustrating cos it performs so well otherwise, makes me want to do back to back bowls.Oh I believe you, my V2 used to do it occassionally, but has stopped either due to modding or just repeated use. I'm not having that problem on V3. How tightly is it binding? I just keep a cloth handy, double it up, and use it to twist apart the hot ends, and I've never had it bind so tightly that I can't easily hand torque it free. Funny thing tho, I get this issue ALL the time with my Anvil XL bowl... fucker gets stuck in there and then a magnet just threads the body loose.
Perfect_Speed4069
I am the beetle in a box that only you can see
Mine's a couple of weeks away, cos I cheaped out on postage. Anyone found a generic carry case/storage option?
It comes with a cheap leather sleeve. Otherwise, there's a case made by a member of this forum earlier in the thread, can recommend, they did a good job with my fw7 one.
BingsBuddery
Derelict Meatsack
That's definitely not normal, it should not be binding that tightly.. I'd suggest contacting BFG (or whomever you purchased it from) about it.
LittleBoy0311
Active Member
I think that almost everybody here is vaping what you are vaping, and yeah even if a get big madicated i do not forget to lose it a bit. I think you are exaggerating it.
Perfect_Speed4069
I am the beetle in a box that only you can see
Thankyou for the tip off. Although all the recent torque talk makes me doubtful the leather band/hot swap feature will help much. Half the fun is the fiddle though, I guess
LittleBoy0311
Active Member
Try to unscrew it with pliera for hot swap
maremaresing
Well-Known Member
I don't think that damaging the cap with pliers is a viable solution here. Dani has tight tolerances to force air down those twisted channels for convection. And unlike the pressed metal caps of the dynavap, there is no flex in these. I found it interesting that the anvil suffers the same fate, but it makes sense.
One dani cap is quite enough for me, so I haven't seen this failure. My v3 is much looser than the v2, but I never had problems with the v2.
Which part of the dani is titanium? The body? The intercooler certainly, but anything else?
One dani cap is quite enough for me, so I haven't seen this failure. My v3 is much looser than the v2, but I never had problems with the v2.
Which part of the dani is titanium? The body? The intercooler certainly, but anything else?
LittleBoy0311
Active Member
Sorry I phrased it wrong. I was thinking about my “pliers” that are alluminium pliers to hold hot charcoal on the hookah.
Also I don’t use them to “force” it but to hot swap (the cap is lose) because i cannot touch it. It is a gentle touch in fact my cap is oke
maremaresing
Well-Known Member
Even though I have the fancy maze stem thing, I've been really enjoying the size and use of the stock v3 stem. Feels so nice. You don't really need the drip tip, but it definitely adds something to the experience.
On that note, I love a vape that has a standard drip tip fitting for the mouthpiece. It should be more common, even if it's just aesthetic/mouthfeel.
On that note, I love a vape that has a standard drip tip fitting for the mouthpiece. It should be more common, even if it's just aesthetic/mouthfeel.
BingsBuddery
Derelict Meatsack
This. I've been browsing the plethora of available 510 driptips on Aliexpress.. Think I'm gonna grab a few glass varieties.
maremaresing
Well-Known Member
RIP to your wallet, though. Drip tips are quite a rabbit hole. Check out fasttech, as well. I really like their drip tip sorting flags. While you are at it, see if you can find a whistle tip. Super comfy to use.
endof3d
Cognitive Dissonance D 5 +
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Not sure if the 510 drip tip that came off my DV BB Shell-Shock stem is a standard size 510 tip, as it is the only one I own, but it was way to small - like falls out of the Dani - when I tried it on the V2. Maybe 1.5 mm or 2mm O ring could make it useable, but can't say for sure.
No idea if the mouth piece opening on the V3 is a different diameter than V2, as mine is still in transit. 510 drip tips, the 'next frontier'.
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LittleBoy0311
Active Member
The mouth opening on the SS stem is always the same.
Not sure if the 510 drip tip that came off my DV BB Shell-Shock stem is a standard size 510 tip, as it is the only one I own, but it was way to small - like falls out of the Dani - when I tried it on the V2. Maybe 1.5 mm or 2mm O ring could make it useable, but can't say for sure.
No idea if the mouth piece opening on the V3 is a different diameter than V2, as mine is still in transit. 510 drip tips, the 'next frontier'.
.
I don't know why exactly but I have the impression that despite everything, the draw is tighter on my V3 wood than on my V2 wood (1st gen). Others have the same feeling? Actually i prefer use it with the glass stem, more open.
In my opinion, this remains the major area of improvement of the Dani because I'd like an adjustable airflow so that everyone can play with their preferences.
Using a technique mentioned in the thread, i.e. torch 2 flames under the air holes, I get a rather dark avb in 1 heating and several hits.
In my opinion, this remains the major area of improvement of the Dani because I'd like an adjustable airflow so that everyone can play with their preferences.
Using a technique mentioned in the thread, i.e. torch 2 flames under the air holes, I get a rather dark avb in 1 heating and several hits.
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LittleBoy0311
Active Member
You can unscrew the cap a bit, it will work as an airflow regulator!
I'm not noticing any real change in airflow until the cap is fully unscrewed.
me too.
LittleBoy0311
Active Member
Oh, there was another dude above on this thread saying it was making big improvements. He was lying
