The Angus Halogen Vape by YLL Vape

seedy53

Well-Known Member
if the new 100w bulb is double, what'll that do to the battery life?
Wonder if there's different firmware to drive the high wattage?
if you put a 100w bulb in there, most likely, you'll wreck your unit
 
seedy53,

Gonchin

Well-Known Member
So what's the preferred loading method (capsule or no)? I've tried both. The cap seemed to have a slightly lighter color abv, but less mess.

Also what about charging? Typically I externally charge all my 18650 vapes. However, with this design, I can see the risk of getting the cap cross threaded fairly easily.
 

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
From what we've seen the device seems to properly do balance charging, so you should be good letting them in.
 

budski

cantre member
the oven roast's better w/out the caps for sure, when I do skip the cap, I use whole nugs and don't stir to keep particulate matter out of the glass beads.
I bought an ext. charger, 4 p28a, marked in 2 dedicated pairs so when it gets low and I want another load I'll swap batts, other wise do partial charges in the angus
 

Maschine

Well-Known Member
100w is a hot bulb for sure. That could definitely lead to combustion. Has anyone managed to combust with their angus?
Yes, I combusted once at 210°C. You can read the whole story when going a bit back in this thread if you want.

I was asking myself how this doubled Watt power will effect vaping. Does this mean a shorter heating time or can you reach higher temperatures or held the temperature more stable? A combination? Can someone maybe explain this to a tech / physics noob :hmm:
So what's the preferred loading method (capsule or no)? I've tried both. The cap seemed to have a slightly lighter color abv, but less mess.
I`ve never been a capsule guy but I have very thin mesh screen what I use as a second screen in the hope to prevent residues and dirt. Often I do the same at the top after loading the Angus to prevent the CU / WPA from clogging. IMO when wiping the chamber while still warm with a Q Tip it keeps clean very long.

Angus really needs a all glass stem loading update someday :D
 

popitup

Well-Known Member
Check out this frankenstein mod, POTV glass mighty adapter, the seal and size is pretty close. If I cover the air hole and hold the attachment tight, it's a nice seal. Some rubber bands could keep it secure. The reason it is an an angle, is because of the threads of the mighty. If all the stuff on the bottom was cut off, and you borrowed in some earth magnet's it would be pretty freaking close.

Wouldn't take much for POTV to redesign this to fit either 🤞.

Peace.

 

Mndeadhead

Well-Known Member
So what's the preferred loading method (capsule or no)? I've tried both. The cap seemed to have a slightly lighter color abv, but less mess.

Also what about charging? Typically I externally charge all my 18650 vapes. However, with this design, I can see the risk of getting the cap cross threaded fairly easily.
i have found that the scoop tat Simrell sells fits the inside of the bowl perfectly. has become my preferred loading tool. Others tend to be too big and i dump more material around the bowl than inside it, but this solves the problem...no more mess.
 
Mndeadhead,

Chicago_Ian

New Member
A heads up to those considering an Angus purchase-- their QC isn't infallible.

I ordered a v1.0 with the upgraded top through the lovely folks at @VGOODIEZ and everything seemed to be working (light turned on etc) but I was having _really_ poor vapor production so I got out ye-olde kitchen thermometer and, after 3 back-to-back runs on the highest setting, the best I could do was 285F! Yikes! The batteries were 40A 3200mah Imrens, which I've used with great success in the past, but just to be sure I ordered a brand new set of Molicel P28As from Liion and the results were even worse, maxing out at 265F after 3 runs on the highest setting.

I know it's a sample size of one using less-than-ideal lab equipment, but Caveat Emptor!

I'll be reaching out to the VGoodiez staff tomorrow to see if it qualifies as DOA; otherwise it might be time to try out the repair service at Soothing Vapours.

 

Pukka

Well-Known Member
A heads up to those considering an Angus purchase-- their QC isn't infallible.

I ordered a v1.0 with the upgraded top through the lovely folks at @VGOODIEZ and everything seemed to be working (light turned on etc) but I was having _really_ poor vapor production so I got out ye-olde kitchen thermometer and, after 3 back-to-back runs on the highest setting, the best I could do was 285F! Yikes! The batteries were 40A 3200mah Imrens, which I've used with great success in the past, but just to be sure I ordered a brand new set of Molicel P28As from Liion and the results were even worse, maxing out at 265F after 3 runs on the highest setting.

I know it's a sample size of one using less-than-ideal lab equipment, but Caveat Emptor!

I'll be reaching out to the VGoodiez staff tomorrow to see if it qualifies as DOA; otherwise it might be time to try out the repair service at Soothing Vapours.

You need airflow to transfer heat unless you moniter the heat from inside the source (the balls). The way you're measuring all you're seeing is the radiant heat inside the oven.
 

F1240

Member
New to the forum. Grabbed a second hand Angus.

Is the ruby mod something I can do myself? I’m assuming not since the video I watched had a soldering iron and I don’t.

Like an idiot I ordered a bag of rubies without even thinking it might not be something I could do myself.
 

Chicago_Ian

New Member
You need airflow to transfer heat unless you moniter the heat from inside the source (the balls). The way you're measuring all you're seeing is the radiant heat inside the oven.
Fair point, although the tip of that thermometer is only a few mm away from the balls, I can't really imagine convection would make up a full 160+ degree difference. Luckily it's easy enough to test by gently (or not so gently) blowing through the air intake on the bottom.

(15 mins later)

Yeah, I was able to get it up to 351F by experimenting with the convection airflow, but that's still well shy of the advertised specs for the highest setting.

Edit: It appears that at least one unit had issues with the temperature sensor, maybe that's what's up.
/shrug
 
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Timps27

Feel like I’m winnin’ when I’m losin’ again
Is the ruby mod something I can do myself?

It depends on your level of comfort, I pulled the top plate and wood, then slipped the tube off the bulb and swapped out the glass beads for 27 3mm rubies. No soldering required, the only fiddly bit is the 4 o-rings that center the posts in the wood body.

I don’t think it’s a difficult process, but you have to evaluate based on your own comfort and mechanical inclination.
 

F1240

Member
It depends on your level of comfort, I pulled the top plate and wood, then slipped the tube off the bulb and swapped out the glass beads for 27 3mm rubies. No soldering required, the only fiddly bit is the 4 o-rings that center the posts in the wood body.

I don’t think it’s a difficult process, but you have to evaluate based on your own comfort and mechanical inclination.
Fab. Thanks. I’ll look for a tear down so I know what’s what but I don’t see myself having an issue with that.
 
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floribud

Well-Known Member
Does anybody actually have the new Angus with the 100w bulb yet?

I really don't understand what the rubies are doing (higher mass?), but that 100w bulb should create a dramatically different feel. I never take my Angus off the lowest setting, so I'm hoping the heat setting stay the same, but that 100w bulb gets it up to temp quicker and maintains the temp more. But having said that, one minute into a session (hitting it pretty heavily) you can turn it off and still get a couple good pull just from the balls.
 

AxialFlux

Member
I did the ruby mod to mine, and the only issue I had was one of the wires broke at the solder joint on one of the posts. Tried to strip it, and resolder, but it's just too short to easily do it. Ended up just soldering it to the same post as the other wire is on, as all the posts should have connectivity with each other. Seems to work fine, but that makes me wonder if I should open her back up, and fix it correctly.
 

Pcloudy

Well-Known Member
So I did the ruby mod the other day as well. First hit it was producing so much vapor I thought I had combusted...I have yet to have that happen again while trying, not sure what happened but it must have been an aligning of the stars.
I wish mine would run just a tad higher, but 100w bulb seems excessive.
Overall pretty dang satisfied with it so far.
 

edead

Member
Ian im in the same boat as you and have reached out to see if my device is working as intended. It blows my mind people are saying they are running this on levels 1-3. I am running it on level 5 and cannot even get the AVB brown before the first 5 minute session switches the device off. I wasnt expecting much for $99 but this thing is a major dissappointment if it indeed not a lemon unit. Even the ALP leaves this thing in the dust and thats like a little toy compared to the TM2
 

budski

cantre member
I picked up a vgoodies deal as a back up and to compare back to back to my ruby edition. Way bigger difference than I expected! it's like the ruby has a hole other temp setting. The v1 I had to run at max temp to get a good hit, Makes me wonder if the temp sensors are calibrated differently.
oh well time to order some rubies, I think the magic is in the infra red like a food heatlamp.
ps I always figure the 1st half of the 1st 5 min. session is just warmup, it helps to draw every 20-30 seconds to get the beads heat saturated, the second session rocks:rockon:
 

Nebelmann

Well-Known Member
I'm getting flavorful vapor especially on the lowest temp setting. My preferred way to use is by temp stepping. 2-3 hits on lowest setting, depending on quality of weed. Stepping up to medium setting fire some minutes, and finishing the bowl on highest setting with boost enabled.
So a bowl is smoked in more than 5 minutes and is dark brown afterwards. Closest to a joint for me and still faster than my GF hitting her J. She is so slow
 
Nebelmann,
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Maschine

Well-Known Member
Ian im in the same boat as you and have reached out to see if my device is working as intended. It blows my mind people are saying they are running this on levels 1-3. I am running it on level 5 and cannot even get the AVB brown before the first 5 minute session switches the device off. I wasnt expecting much for $99 but this thing is a major dissappointment if it indeed not a lemon unit. Even the ALP leaves this thing in the dust and thats like a little toy compared to the TM2
This is not normal, maybe you can get a warranty or repair? I have my second device now and both extracted at level 1. I rarely go higher then 2 when using the CU and get a nice coffee roast AVB though it`s not TM2 dark.
wow I cant get anything at 1 on either the v1 or ruby even with a warmup, I've gotta think there's some temp calibration variances going on.
This reminds me of my strange assumption that my first device ran on higher temps and sadly points in this direction. I like my Angus but after all these post and updated versions I would feel better if someone could clarify what is going on?
 
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