Very nice!! 408F right? how's the taste at this temp? you start the bowl from 408F or from around 380F?
Hard for me to imagine somebody being disappointed with the tetrax heater, gotta say. I just don't have a better tasting vape. Love how light and stable it is for glass use, really ideal. Absolutely in love with this thing.
405F, in a basket screen. Not bad flavor at all, I managed to fully extract the load in two draws, and it got nicely dark. 380 would maybe have a bit more flavor to start with, but 405 from start to finish didn't offend my senses any.Very nice!! 408F right? how's the taste at this temp? you start the bowl from 408F or from around 380F?
Try it with the shortest stem you've got (without water filteration), at 365F. tell me after if you felt that terpey-nosy405F, in a basket screen. Not bad flavor at all, I managed to fully extract the load in two draws, and it got nicely dark. 380 would maybe have a bit more flavor to start with, but 405 from start to finish didn't offend my senses any.
Hmmm what's the mod saying? Is it just not reading the coil at all and displaying ohms/resistance of 0? I figured out the cause of my problems last night was a connection inside the wooden housing had become detached from the 510 connector base. Could be that you're having a similar problem to that
Thanks @Jacer for responding. Quite unsettling, tbh!
The Cuboid 200w mod will not fire at all. The resistance also is odd before fireing: should be 0.248ohms, but it varies considerably, for example, it last showed 0.278ohms at cold! The mod has returned very strange errors, like "New coil 0.26ohms, same coil 0.24ohms." When it was working, the device eventually shut down returning strange errors but I cannot remember what they were. Then next day it worked fine. It has never returned an overheating warning.
Ok, I will check the 510 housing & unscrew the connector, but honestly, I am a little scared to adjust it physically. Will that negatively affect the warrantee? You know, when the TetraX worked, it performed better than my Mighty. I really like the on-demand feature too.
Sorry to bother the thread about this.
if you get the new coil warning you need to turn menu,coils, manage,Check to OFF.
please contact me by mail for troubleshooting your device and tell me the errors you get and when you get them. it is normal for the cold resistance to be higher than the recommended one, especially if the device is warm.
also please contact me before you physically mess with your unit to keep warranty in place.
update your mod again with the tubomyevic software, that should put you right back into TUBO mode. alternatively you can set one of menu>interface>clicks to "Edit", go back to the mainscreen, press the firebutton the amount of times you chose Edit for and the top line should start to blink. press "+" button until you are at TUBO, confirm with fire.Thank you, will do. It is way too beautiful a device for me to adjust it physically. I really did not want to bother you at this stage, I still do not understand exactly what is happening.
Note that the Check feature is already set to "No." Also strangely, the "NI" setting in "Coils" is not 0 but returns an actual value after the device is used ("Tubo" feature is set to 0.248ohms). In the "Modes" menu, when TCR is set to "Y", the setting "Temp NI" is unchangeable at "A". The "desktop" or dashboard main screen also does not show the TCR value, but instead displays "NI".
Thank you for your responses.
I'm almost starting to think that the problem is my actual box mod and maybe not the tetrax itself. From day one I had problems with the tetrax in my joytech EvicDUAL but from day one I could use it in my DNA mod with no problems, although I only used it in wattage mode and couldn't use the tubo firmware. I still get random problems and everyone once in a while when I try to use the warmup or cruise mode, after a second or two, it will switch out of "tubo" mode and go to "power" mode running on just wattage.Hopefully everybody gets it worked out fast! It be tough going without this in my daily rotation.
I’ve been using my Tetra X with my Wismec RX300 flawlessly. No battery drain or atomizer hot codes at all so far.
I'd highly recommend the 3 battery Cuboid 200 running the Tubo software, it has worked absolutely flawlessly for me when my Tetra was up and running. If you look a few pages back you can find a couple links with them in the $20-$30 range.I'm almost starting to think that the problem is my actual box mod and maybe not the tetrax itself. From day one I had problems with the tetrax in my joytech EvicDUAL but from day one I could use it in my DNA mod with no problems, although I only used it in wattage mode and couldn't use the tubo firmware. I still get random problems and everyone once in a while when I try to use the warmup or cruise mode, after a second or two, it will switch out of "tubo" mode and go to "power" mode running on just wattage.
I'm thinking of just going with a Wismec 2/3. I have a set up now with 3 sets of 2 batteries but wondering if I should upgrade to the 3 battery setup? I pretty much get like 1 days worth of use out of 1 set of batteries, so I'm changing out batteries and recharging about everyday. Wondering how much longer the 3 batteries would last.
Also I should add that most of the problems have been worked out so far. I have been using it as my daily driver and damn is this thing a beast. Can get massive clouds. I really want to get a the Wismec so I can see if it is the box mod. Box Mod acquisition syndrome is real too.
if the display goes dark when firing that most likely means stealth mode is activated. hold fire&"-" button to switch it on or off.
how is the piro? feels like the hunt?Wattage is 70W on my VTC Dual, never changed it. But I think it's lower on single cell mods. And as far as I know, you shouldn't change it for the Tubo mode. Please correct me, if I'm wrong.
I'm starting with 195° using stems/j-hooks, but mostly my TETRA hooks on some glass, starting at 205° then, cycling up with each draw until 230°/235° for the last one.