Tetra P80

[gordontreeman]

@Vap O matic 180C is pretty low. I would expect thinner and whispier (but flavorful) vapor.

I think you’re mistake is in assuming 180C on the TM is 180C on the tetra. Algorithms that measure temp of the heater via tcr are not going to be accurate enough for that to translate into the air passing over your flower being the same temp, so it’s relative. You can’t try to set them both to some reference temp and assume they are both heating to exactly that temp.

 

[average_joe]

Since I bought my tetra P80 at the last drop I am not satisfied with it. I set the P80 to 195 degrees. Preheat the p80 or use it on demand. No matter if I pull slow or fast it just comes barely steam. Compared to the Tinymight 1 or 2 at 180 degrees, the steam is just thin with the same material.

If I pull during preheating then the result is satisfactory but that can't be right. I have not changed any settings since purchase. The resistance of the coil is the value of the lid inside stands. What am I doing wrong? Does anyone have tips? What are your experiences at 195 degrees?

My P80 hasnt arrived yet but my Tetrax should work the same way. At 195 celcius I wouldnt get anything using the resistance that came with the vape. I use it between 210 to 260 for best result, I never combusted at 260 so I am sure the temps reading are not accurate. I also recommend using the vape at max temp in a dark room to see when the coils glow and to set the resistance below the number you used when it glowed (remember to suck hard and then check for glow). It could also be a faulty mod, one of my wismec would heat up for a couple seconds and then stop heating at all (the temp fluctuated all over the place in the screen but no heat) but as for me and for Gordontreeman at 180/195 you should just get flavor and not much visible vapor. Good luck.

 

[Vap O matic]

@Vap O matic 180C is pretty low. I would expect thinner and whispier (but flavorful) vapor.

I think you’re mistake is in assuming 180C on the TM is 180C on the tetra. Algorithms that measure temp of the heater via tcr are not going to be accurate enough for that to translate into the air passing over your flower being the same temp, so it’s relative. You can’t try to set them both to some reference temp and assume they are both heating to exactly that temp.

Thanks for the quick answer

So, then 180 degrees on the Tinymight is not 180 degrees on the P80? Okay then I ask why then there is a temperature at all. If I set the P80 to 220 degrees I get a reasonably good result. Bigger clouds and steam. But the effect is then also more stoned, sedating. With the TM I vaporize at 180 degrees and the effect is more uplifting. At 180 degrees, large clouds and vapor.

I also recommend using the vape at max temp in a dark room to see when the coils glow and to set the resistance below the number you used when it glowed (remember to suck hard and then check for glow). It could also be a faulty mod, one of my wismec would heat up for a couple seconds and then stop heating at all (the temp fluctuated all over the place in the screen but no heat). Good luck

Thanks for the tip.

I will check it tonight

 

[GoldenBud]

Compared to the Tinymight 1 or 2 at 180 degrees, the steam is just thin with the same material.

TP80 is not like TM, TP80 uses higher temps bro... the coils are thinner and the glass is the mass here... the TM has a coil which has a bigger mass... try 210C... is it working?

 

[Vap O matic]

TP80 is not like TM, TP80 uses higher temps bro... the coils are thinner and the glass is the mass here... the TM has a coil which has a bigger mass... try 210C... is it working?

210-220 degrees and I have clouds but also no huge clouds. It's okay but the effect is more stoned. Then this seems to be the case with the Tetra P80. I understand that the technique is completely different and in the TM less mass is heated with more power. Whereas with the Tetra the glass is heated as a heating element with more mass. But my feeling is still that the P80 produces less steam than the Tinymight. With the Tetra I need much more material for the same steam. Somehow I miss the power of the P80. Can not explain it otherwise.

 

[Falconflys]

Newest addition to my lamart family! A beautiful matching custom purple heart TetraX to go with my amazing purple heart TetraP80!
It's so much better than what I was anticipating. It's freaking gorgeous! I'm loving the new smaller connector!
You rock @funkyjunky! Thanks so much!

https://imgur.com/a/uPlBjkY

 

[gordontreeman]

Again, the temps are relative. Unless you are double blind comparing 220C from your TP80 to 180C on your TM I am not sure how much we can attribute the heavier more sedated stony feelings to higher temps (all of those "this temp == these cannabinoids == these effects" charts are a little bit woo-woo and not backed by meaningful data yet anyway) vs placebo. The only reall way to compare apples to apples would be to get a temp sensor that measures the temp of the air stream passing and get them both to deliver the same consistent temp. On my TP80 180C is 356. That is not a high temperature. It does not surprise me that you do not get thick clouds out of your TP80 at that temp based on my experience with my TP80 at that temp, but I doubt that even our two different TP80s would produce identical results (though theoretically pretty close depending on how tightly Ralph is able to calibrate them).

There are lots of numbers in between 180 and 220 that you could try to see if they produce the effects and clouds you are looking for. I get the desire for all of this to be exact, but the different draw rates that we use are going to make something like "temp 6 = 180C === 180C as measured by a sensor measuring the air temp as it hits your flower" impossible to achieve regardless (this is what TCR and PID algorithms are trying to do, but I'm not sure how exact they are and how well we can use the temp that is calculated from the resistance of your heater as a proxy for the actual temperature of the air stream). If it is so unnerving that you have to set your TP80 up to a different arbitrary higher number to get the results you want though I guess I suggest trying to sell it? They still seem to go pretty quick. But I would not stress so much about what the specific number you set is and just find the one you enjoy personally

 

[Vap O matic]

Again, the temps are relative. Unless you are double blind comparing 220C from your TP80 to 180C on your TM I am not sure how much we can attribute the heavier more sedated stony feelings to higher temps (all of those "this temp == these cannabinoids == these effects" charts are a little bit woo-woo and not backed by meaningful data yet anyway) vs placebo. The only reall way to compare apples to apples would be to get a temp sensor that measures the temp of the air stream passing and get them both to deliver the same consistent temp. On my TP80 180C is 356. That is not a high temperature. It does not surprise me that you do not get thick clouds out of your TP80 at that temp based on my experience with my TP80 at that temp, but I doubt that even our two different TP80s would produce identical results (though theoretically pretty close depending on how tightly Ralph is able to calibrate them).

There are lots of numbers in between 180 and 220 that you could try to see if they produce the effects and clouds you are looking for. I get the desire for all of this to be exact, but the different draw rates that we use are going to make something like "temp 6 = 180C === 180C as measured by a sensor measuring the air temp as it hits your flower" impossible to achieve regardless (this is what TCR and PID algorithms are trying to do, but I'm not sure how exact they are and how well we can use the temp that is calculated from the resistance of your heater as a proxy for the actual temperature of the air stream). If it is so unnerving that you have to set your TP80 up to a different arbitrary higher number to get the results you want though I guess I suggest trying to sell it? They still seem to go pretty quick. But I would not stress so much about what the specific number you set is and just find the one you enjoy personally

Thanks for your detailed answer. let's leave the comparison between the TM and TP80 way, from me also the temperature comparison. Is there any way to adjust the temperature setting? I don't get the clouds and effect I want even at 220 degrees. If I go any higher with the temperature I get a hotspot in the middle. I have tried different mouthpieces. Sorry but I am looking for a solution. Which mouthpiece do you use and how do you set your TP80 for visible vapor? How strong do you draw? Gladly more comments from other users.

 

[gordontreeman]

I think if you crank the temp hot spots are inevitable. I vary my use between like 360F to up to 420F (edit: I guess through water I'll go as high as 440 - 450 if I am not using a basket screen, all of these other temps are assuming you pack a basket screen or you need to go higher as there is more distance for the air to cool) for flower. Definitely a dark spot in the middle when I get to those higher temps, but when I blow the avb onto a white paper towel to look at it, it is usually otherwise pretty consistently colored. I use the tank, nub with and without a whip, bendy-spiked mp, and various WPAs. I don't really try to modulate my draw speed with the TP80 as its so wide open, but if you draw more slowly or quickly you will need to adjust your temp some relative to mine most likely.

220C is pretty hot--428F. I would think that would get your flower a dark brown color probably with a hot spot on the top layer, unless you pull very slow when you inhale maybe? But that that temp I think it might combust with too slow of an inhale. If you are not getting something like that I guess the first step for me would be to reach out to Lamart and make sure you have the temp control and PID algorithms set to stock. I think this can also be verified by finding the manual on their site. If that still seems off you can adjust your resistance so that 220C is hotter relative to what it is now, but I would just use a higher temp and leave the resistance alone personally.

 

[GoldenBud]

But my feeling is still that the P80 produces less steam than the Tinymight. With the Tetra I need much more material for the same steam. Somehow I miss the power of the P80. Can not explain it otherwise.

take a top shelf weed, vape at 230C (let is heat soak for 20-40 seconds) , it feels like 7.5 on TM1? slow-medium draw.

 

[gordontreeman]

That’s actually a great point @GoldenBud makes re: heating soaking, too. I don’t find the tp80 so great at on demand unless you take a big hit to effectively pre heat it first (so like your second in demand hit in fairly short succession is the one that has some vapor volume to it). I usually use the w2c mode. Have you preheated it at all or are you hitting. It from cold?

 

[Shit Snacks]

Exactly @Vap O matic if you're trying to use the tetra on demand, with stock dry stems, use higher temps than you are used to, adjust technique, it's a different experience... If you are cruising with long heat soak then you can get more out of the lower temp settings... But there are different ways in which you pack and inhale, I like to use my tetra now through water, type back bowl and quick rips, I kill the bowl in one... Using dry stems, it can be a little difficult to take the proper big hits to get the proper big vapor, that's why I don't really use them much anymore, but they do work as long as you adjust expectations and use styles from what you are already used to... I really don't find it that similar to the TM generally honestly, and temperature settings are always relative to the user with pure convection on demand in my experience.

 

[BubbleDrop]

Is there any way to adjust the temperature setting? I don't get the clouds and effect I want even at 220 degrees. If I go any higher with the temperature I get a hotspot in the middle. I have tried different mouthpieces. Sorry but I am looking for a solution. Which mouthpiece do you use and how do you set your TP80 for visible vapor? How strong do you draw? Gladly more comments from other users.

I find the TP80 to be a lot more finicky than the TM, when using low temps.

When I started using mine, I used to vape (on-demand with warmup, 0.07g of weed so it's not packed) between 175°C and 195°C. And I always got great vapor. I was using the bent MP and a medium grind using a SLX.

But if I used the tank/nub at low temps, I couldn't get any vapor !
I then tried a coarse grind with the tank/nub and it worked fine (while those stems didn't work with a medium grind).
I think most people here don't have those issues because they use the TP80 at higher temps. If you're gonna use low temps, then that's not so easy.

At some point things stopped working : I couldn't get a lot of vapor because something must have changed (maybe my new BCG, the weed, or something else). I was desperate to have it working like before as I was getting clouds even at 175°C. And then I remembered @Shit Snacks said he was not using warmup so I adjusted and now I'm getting great results again.

Could you try this, see if it works :

- bent MP, basket filled with 0.07g (medium grind).
- set the TP80 to 205°C, and start crusing.
- after a few seconds (5 to 10), start pulling for 5 seconds. You should have great clouds.
- now lower the temperature to 195°C and pull again for 5 seconds (you can stop cruising by pressing one time, lower the temp and then start cruising again or you can just lower then temp while it is still cruising).
- lower to 185°C and have a 5-second hit.
- lower to 175°C and have another hit.

Now you can move again to 185°C, 195°C and the bowl should be over. I know we're not supposed to start high and end low but this setup works great for me.

Let us know if that works for you.

 

[GoldenBud]

I find the TP80 to be a lot more finicky than the TM, when using low temps.

yeah because glass has less conductivity (like 15x times less K value of conduction....) than the Stainless steel. TM which has a lot of Stainless mass comparing to the glass, it took me a while figuring it out....

 

[BubbleDrop]

yeah because glass has less conductivity (like 15x times less K value of conduction....) than the Stainless steel. TM which has a lot of Stainless mass comparing to the glass, it took me a while figuring it out....

Ok ! That should be why they feel different. Also if you pack too much (let's say : 0.1g of medium grind), then you're not going to get anything at low temps ! While higher temps could still work.

 

[Shit Snacks]

Ok ! That should be why they feel different. Also if you pack too much (let's say : 0.1g of medium grind), then you're not going to get anything at low temps ! While higher temps could still work.

Although, packing more at a low temp, would get more vapor, in my experience... That's why usually when I'm using my high temp hits, I am doing pretty small bowls (but sometimes a full basket is still small lol) but yeah the TM and TP80 have wildly different heaters and tech used to control them...

 

[BubbleDrop]

Although, packing more at a low temp, would get more vapor, in my experience... That's why usually when I'm using my high temp hits, I am doing pretty small bowls (but sometimes a full basket is still small lol) but yeah the TM and TP80 have wildly different heaters and tech used to control them...

From my experience, a packed bowl at 175°C (350F) will not produce any vapor. But if I pack less, it does work better.
And then higher temps is another story.

If I use the TM, I'm getting vapor whether the herb is packed or not.

 

[GoldenBud]

From my experience, a packed bowl at 175°C (350F) will not produce any vapor. But if I pack less, it does work better.

even with the slowest draw ever for 10-20 seconds? don't have top shelf weed to test, only mail order CBD arrived, i'm sure it won't work

 

[BubbleDrop]

even with the slowest draw ever for 10-20 seconds?

I could try again !
I had that same issue with my Ghost MV1 : no vapor at low temps if the herb is too packed.

 

[Shit Snacks]

From my experience, a packed bowl at 175°C (350F) will not produce any vapor. But if I pack less, it does work better.
And then higher temps is another story.

Yeah I'm not sure I understand, you're still talking about just loading rimmed basket screen at the tip? If anything you want it to be packed enough so that there's no airflow around it, you can get quicker rips at lower temps with a better pack, tighter pack of finer grind, doesn't really matter if it's a more coarse grind if it is loose or packed tight, I mean it can go either way honestly anything works with mine, but the airflow is so open I like a little resistance through the herb... Like especially at lower settings, usually you get more visible vapor than more herb you will load... So I don't know it doesn't make so much sense to me, I will say 350F is extremely low in the tetra and I am pretty much never using it that low ever though

 

[Stueylakes]

It really took me about 6 months to really click with mine however now another 10 months later im fully in sync with it.

Primarily 3 ways for me
1. warm up to cruise on 230 through water destroys a .08 basket in 1 or 2 hits and obnoxious levels of vapour.
2. Warm up to cruise between 210 and 220 depending on need through a hook or the micro which i love again massive plumage over 2 -5 hits Weakening at 4 but still tasty.
3. When the glass is hot and your in the mood just hit it at whatever temp you want manually this gives a much longer but hella flavourful sesh. Again good plumage as its literally hitting it from a massive head start?

Take some time with it, its a complex beast if you tear its endless capabilities down but when those 4 tubes are singing its an epic experience.

Im gonna go smash mine now, as its a Sunday of course.

 

[GoldenBud]

1. warm up to cruise on 230 through water destroys a .08 basket in 1 or 2 hits and obnoxious levels of vapour.

this is my favorite!! 230C FTW, and 235C with wooden WPA (Dreamwood glow 19mm) compatible with baskets screen

 

[BubbleDrop]

Yeah I'm not sure I understand, you're still talking about just loading rimmed basket screen at the tip?

Yes, if I load 0.1g in the rimmed basket it is going to be packed a bit too much and I won't get any vapor at 175°C. But if I pack 0.07g I then get decent vapor. Well, it used to work like that for several months. I've set the TP80 between 175°C and 195°C and got vapor all the time.

I will say 350F is extremely low in the tetra and I am pretty much never using it that low ever though

Sure, but I was used to those temps (with the Crafty+, and several other vapes).
I noticed most people don't use such low temps though.

https://www.canatura.com/en/the-ultimate-guide-to-cannabis-vaporization-temperatures

While experimentation is the only way to determine what suits you best, the ideal temperature for extracting most of the represented substances is 185 °C. Thus, the optimal temperature range for cannabis is between 180°C and 210 °C. Temperatures below 190 °C bring more potent psychoactive effects; higher temperatures affect the body.

This is just theory, of course.

 

[games-loaves0t]

I’m loving all of these suggestions on what works for everyone. These posts inspire me to try different approaches to see if there is a better way for me to do it.

 

[Butch]

I know for me 380 degrees works for me